Thread Number: 72474
/ Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
Miele w1918 washer leaking |
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Post# 957721 , Reply# 1   9/15/2017 at 22:54 (2,385 days old) by RevvinKevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land)   |   | |
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Post# 957952 , Reply# 3   9/18/2017 at 01:03 (2,383 days old) by RichNZ (New Zealand)   |   | |
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Is it dripping on the main wash, prewash or softener outlets? If the water drips when the power is off there may be debris in the valve which you could clean out. |
Post# 958428 , Reply# 4   9/21/2017 at 09:06 (2,379 days old) by bewitched (Italy)   |   | |
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The code should be 3182800. you can easily find it on ebay here in europe. it costs around 50€.
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Post# 958521 , Reply# 5   9/21/2017 at 22:14 (2,379 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)   |   | |
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Post# 958697 , Reply# 8   9/23/2017 at 10:44 (2,377 days old) by bewitched (Italy)   |   | |
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I think the problem is not if the hose will fit on an european valve, i think ours are powered at 220v and yours run on another voltage. if the voltage is the same then you can replace the entire assembly with an european model. |
Post# 958762 , Reply# 10   9/23/2017 at 16:42 (2,377 days old) by enduring (Iowa)   |   | |
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Here is my part number for the solenoid valve on my machine: 3801391 |
Post# 958765 , Reply# 11   9/23/2017 at 17:28 (2,377 days old) by RevvinKevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land)   |   | |
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Barbara, since you have your machine opened up, look at some of the components inside, like look closely at the inlet valves, drain pump motor, etc. Just because the machine has needs to be plugged into a 220V circuit, does NOT mean everything inside it uses 220V power. The 220V is mainly for the heating elements.
I bought a W1926 washer back in April and at first the pump was not working. When I removed it to inspect, stamped right on it was "120V". After all, each half of the 220V power your washer plugs into, is 120V. SO... before you order those European valves, check yours or check the wiring diagram to confirm what power they need. |
Post# 958775 , Reply# 12   9/23/2017 at 18:08 (2,377 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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Are *NOT* pure 208v-240v machines.
Rather just like American dryers that use electricity for heating are 120v/208v-240v power (four or three prong "dryer" plug). As posted above not all components inside the washer run on "220v" power, and yes a bulk of the high wattage goes for the heaters which are 2x 1500 watts (IIRC). |
Post# 958820 , Reply# 13   9/23/2017 at 23:03 (2,377 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)   |   | |
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Post# 958990 , Reply# 16   9/25/2017 at 06:14 (2,376 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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Copied down from the serial plate inside washer.
120v/240v at 60hz you already knew. That is the standard electric "dryer" connection for USA, but in this case it is for a washer. fredsappliance.com/service/3-pro... The 2800 watts just gives total amount of power for the heating elements. |
Post# 959066 , Reply# 18   9/25/2017 at 16:53 (2,375 days old) by Enduring (Iowa)   |   | |
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Thanks launderess for the very straight forward video. |
Post# 959087 , Reply# 19   9/25/2017 at 18:24 (2,375 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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The cheaper solenoid is listed as "compatible", but not genuine original Miele spare. Sort of the difference between purchasing an FSP/Whirlpool part or some other generic spare part.
There is a whole world of after market parts for a wide range of European appliances on offer on that side of pond. You can ask anyone who owns a Miele appliance (including oneself) and they will tell you spares and call out charges are dear. Unlike in North America where Miele has a lock on genuine spares, there is a huge DIY following in Europe and people often looking to save some money go with non-genuine/OEM spares. Miele naturally will tell you they cannot guarantee these aftermarket parts will perform the same and or have equal quality as their own, but they would, wouldn't they? To best of one's knowledge Miele techs here will *NOT* install generic parts, however could be wrong. Miele techs will install OEM parts you've purchased elsewhere (I've done it) long as they are "sealed" and "new". Believe only under such conditions does MIeleUSA offer a warranty (such as it is) for parts and the call out work. After market spares parts in Europe range from excellent/good to average or poor. Qualtex and a few others IIRC have spares that meet or exceed OEM specifications and thus are a good way to go. Indeed for some models of appliances aftermarket is the only way to go as manufactures no longer are making/stocking original spares. Well that and finding someone with NOS lying about. |
Post# 959089 , Reply# 20   9/25/2017 at 18:31 (2,375 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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It isn't uncommon for Miele techs to be unable to find any information regarding serial numbers from older units (W7XX, W10XX, w19XX), indeed no history exists for mine (W1070) prior to our purchasing and the several repairs over past years.
Miele started selling appliances in USA back in the 1980's or maybe 1990's (not sure), and from what one has been given to understand changes in computer systems/record keeping meant many early units simply aren't in system. Though they do say reaching out to Miele in Germany may turn up something. Other thing to remember is for most of Miele's early history in USA their laundry appliances were simply European machines with certain modifications to make them work in USA (120v/60hz power). Inside many of the parts are often pretty much the same as their European cousins. This means if you can find the matching European machine (W1918 was 918 in Germany IIRC), often finding parts in Europe is easier. |
Post# 959129 , Reply# 21   9/25/2017 at 21:37 (2,375 days old) by Enduring (Iowa)   |   | |
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Launderess, great info. Thank you so much for all your input. Thanks for the info on the spares options. I'll check them out. |
Post# 959133 , Reply# 22   9/25/2017 at 21:50 (2,375 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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Others not so much.
Have priced getting Miele parts sent from Europe to USA and sometimes after shipping, VAT and so forth there isn't that much difference. Then there are subtle things that end consumers might not know, but techs do. When had the suspension serviced on my machine it required new springs and "handle". Well one thought springs were springs and handles were handles. Miele tech told then showed me that was not the case. The latter at least vary between those at front versus back of unit. Thank goodness didn't order ones saw from Germany. Just so you know the 19xx series of washing machines have reached their "shelf life" far as Miele guaranteeing to keep parts in stock (20 years after model ends IIRC). So unless am mistaken the only parts for this series in the USA warehouse or otherwise on these shores are it; nothing more will be ordered from Germany. For parts that are also used on other later washing machines this isn't a huge issue. But things specific to a particular unit (7xx, 10xx, 19xx) series are a different matter. For instance the motor for my washer is now NLA, as are various other parts. While exhausting if one has a parts list or numbers calling Miele parts department will tell if something is in stock, and how many are left. MieleUSA parts can also tell if the thing can be or is being reordered to replenish stock. Finally in case you had any ideas in that direction, calling Miele Canada or Mexico to obtain parts won't work. Each division of Miele North America is contractually forbidden to sell/send parts out of their own particular country. Once tried to get Miele Canada to send something from Persil that was out of stock in USA, they wouldn't and told me why they couldn't. |
Post# 961039 , Reply# 24   10/7/2017 at 01:28 (2,364 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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For what it is worth the pump and other parts on my Miele washer are 120v not 220v.
Ironically the electronic control module (which is from France or at least made their according to markings) is also 120v. Again for these older 120v/220v washers and dryers sold in North America Miele made some internal changes. IIRC things are still like that for the new pure 120v washers, but instead Miele puts small transformers inside to step-up voltage where needed. Think of your new part as an investment. With proper care that machine should last a few more decades. If and or when things do come to the worst, make sure you salvage every part possible before sending machine to rubbish. That includes the "new" water valve. Where do you think all those spare but used parts for Mile washers being sold in Europe or elsewhere come from? As for the European parts dealers, one shouldn't be to hard on them; most are only used to dealing with their local market. |
Post# 961120 , Reply# 26   10/7/2017 at 12:30 (2,363 days old) by enduring (Iowa)   |   | |
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Great advise Launderess about saving the parts from the machines. I have been planning to do just that. I love these machines. |
Post# 1076737 , Reply# 27   6/11/2020 at 16:53 (1,385 days old) by SudsMaster (SF Bay Area, California)   |   | |
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Barbara ("Enduring"),
I also got my W1918 off Craigslist as I recall, from a group home in Oakland. It also only goes up to 170F. I seem to recall there was a sticker on it saying this was for energy conservation reasons, but not sure, I got the machine over 10 years ago. In any case, there seem to have been at least two 1918's with the 170 top temp. Personally I'm not sure the 20 degree difference is all that important. But then I also have a W1065 that goes all the way up to 205F, so if I think something requires that high a temp I can always use that washer. But 170 is higher than most other front loaders sold in the USA go anyway. The 1918 is a fine machine and I'm not sure that new Miele machines are much better, although some have a little more capacity and supposedly better wash routines. |
Post# 1077139 , Reply# 28   6/14/2020 at 22:41 (1,382 days old) by SGT10 (California )   |   | |
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Silicon self-fusing extreme tape can be very useful for leaking hoses. CLICK HERE TO GO TO SGT10's LINK |
Post# 1077149 , Reply# 29   6/14/2020 at 23:26 (1,382 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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One of the best things about modern Miele and other European front loaders is the balancing of loads.
The 19xx series washers are better than what came before them in terms of handling unbalanced loads, and of course things got better later on. Yes, Miele washers of old were built to last and could handle the odd badly distributed load; but it is hard on machine, and one's nerves for that matter. Watching how my Lavamat controls drum movements and or handles unbalanced loads is like night and day compared to the Miele W1070. The latter will actually use control of the drum movements to break up an unbalanced load so things spin smoothly. Also because of better motor control the AEG can slowly ramp up to speed which helps with load balancing as well. My Miele OTOH will make several attempts to balance, but if that doesn't happen and timer says "lets rock", it's off to the races, banging and clanging. |
Post# 1078481 , Reply# 30   6/24/2020 at 09:42 (1,372 days old) by SudsMaster (SF Bay Area, California)   |   | |
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Post# 1080666 , Reply# 32   7/11/2020 at 18:09 (1,355 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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You want hose connector like this: https://www.ebay.ie/itm/Dishwasher-Drain...
or this: www.espares.co.uk/product... Then a length of hose or "extender" washing machine or drain hose. The latter will have one end that can accept various sizes of hose connectors. Insert one end of hose connector into hose coming off washing machine and tightly clamp, then insert free end into extended drain hose doing same. Voilà problem solved. Have done this four times already and indeed as have most collectors with multiple European washing machines. |