|
Thread Number: 72536
/ Tag: Vintage Dishwashers
KitchenAid Imperial by Hobart KDI-57 Electrical Issue -- Smokes When Run |
[Down to Last] |  |
|
Post# 958424 , Reply# 1 9/21/2017 at 08:29 (2,401 days old) by jeff_adelphi  (Adelphi, Maryland, USA) |
||
Bob's Appliance Service | ||
| Post# 958450 , Reply# 2 9/21/2017 at 13:28 (2,401 days old) by etudiant (Cleveland) | ||
|
Thanks for the referral! Hi Jeff, Thanks for the referral! I gave Bob a call and am waiting for a call back. I'm keeping my fingers (and toes) crossed in hopes he can help out. I'll let everyone know what he says. Thanks again! | ||
|
Post# 958462 , Reply# 3 9/21/2017 at 14:42 (2,401 days old) by dermacie (my forever home (Glenshaw, PA)) |
||
 | ||
|
Post# 958486 , Reply# 4 9/21/2017 at 15:58 (2,401 days old) by Combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
||
Smoking KitchenAid KD17 dishwasher  | ||
| Post# 959018 , Reply# 7 9/25/2017 at 09:23 (2,397 days old) by pumpkina (California) | ||
|
Thanks. Would you post a photo of that area? Thanks! | ||
|
Post# 959023 , Reply# 8 9/25/2017 at 10:05 (2,397 days old) by Chachp (North Little Rock, AR) |
||
The good news....
...you won't have to stop the dishwasher to add soap anymore.
Here are the pages from the Parts Catalog with the pieces you need. Unfortunately, some parts have new numbers and I don't have a cross reference guide. However, this may get you started on some eBay research if they can't help with parts. I bet they will have them but if they don't here's a start. Someone else on the site will have a cross reference list for the part numbers. Some eBay sellers list both the new and old numbers.
These are great machines, so glad you're trying to save it. | ||
|
Post# 959026 , Reply# 9 9/25/2017 at 10:28 (2,397 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA) |
||
The original non-shielded version of the bi-metalic (4160824) seems to fizzle out quicker than their later counter parts (4162568). I've had luck replacing the original black units with the shielded white ones. Plenty are available on ebay and they are pretty easy to replace. Be careful to not pull the wire out of the spade connector when disconnecting the old bi-metals.
Whirlpool/KitchenAid/FSP PN 4162568 http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-FSP-4162568-... 
| ||
|
Post# 959142 , Reply# 11 9/25/2017 at 22:43 (2,396 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay) |
||
 | ||
| Post# 959146 , Reply# 12 9/25/2017 at 23:32 (2,396 days old) by jkbff (Happy Rock, ND) | ||
 | ||
| Post# 959193 , Reply# 13 9/26/2017 at 06:53 (2,396 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
While you are at it, you might want to consider changing the two o-rings on the detergent dispenser door shafts while you are changing your bi-metal. Very easy to do and will stop any dripping that is happening from these shafts. When I first got my KDS-58, I ran it with the front of the door off and could see it dripping from both shafts, and also noticed a lot of corrosion on one of the prewash bi-metal terminals, so I changed it at the same time. Here's a link to a thread I wrote which shows how to do it, and contains the size of o-rings you'll need.
www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/T... | ||
|
Post# 959281 , Reply# 15 9/26/2017 at 14:27 (2,396 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA) |
||
|
If I were in your shoes, I'd replace the bi-metals and the entire detergent dispenser - KitchenAid/Whirlpool/FSP PN 9740171. The springs can get weak on these over time, and even if the bi-metal trips the door the spring may not trigger fast enough to have it open if you just replace the o-rings in the dispenser (this was the case on an old KDS-17 I had).
Prices vary wildly on these, but you can get them somewhat cheap. http://www.ebay.com/itm/FSP-9740171-WHIR... Ben | ||
|
Post# 959336 , Reply# 16 9/26/2017 at 20:21 (2,395 days old) by Combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
||
|
Faulty detergent dispenser
Yes you definitely need to fix the leaks I would do it by replacing the entire dispenser assembly I've never tried to fix one of these apparently it is possible however. When you remove the dispenser assembly you can clean the rusty areas around the edge of it and paint with two-part Epoxy enamel that is used for repainting bath tubs etc.
Also replace the bad by metal and if you want you can mount the dispenser upside down in the door of the dishwasher so that if it leaks in the future water will not leak on the electrical parts, Ralph mentioned this before. whirlpool did this right after they bought KitchenAid because of the large number of fires this caused. Other things that might cause the dispensers not to open our clogged wash filter, bad inletvalve causing the dishwasher not to get enough water in it or a bad washroom support common problems with this dishwasher. Bob Salem in Cleveland would have any of these parts I would have them if he doesn't. | ||
| Post# 959338 , Reply# 17 9/26/2017 at 20:36 (2,395 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
|
Uhhh... that was me who posted about the o-rings. :-)
If I remember correctly, I did have a bit of trouble with the bi-metals when I first got my KDS-58. I think one of the doors wouldn't open, or wouldn't stay locked; can't remember now. I was able to adjust them by bending the bi-metal ever so sightly so that it just barely catches the release mechanism, and that fixed the problem. I found that if they were bent too much, then just the heat from the water hitting the dispenser would cause the door to open too early. It was a bit of trial and error to get adjusted just right. But I would have to agree with swestoyz: in your case it would probably be worthwhile to replace the entire dispenser. I believe the dispenser can be mounted upside down so that the bi-metals are on top, which will then not allow any water to drip on them in the future should another leak occur through the door shafts. The wiring might have to be lengthened in order to accomplish this though-I'm not sure. This was one of the things Whirlpool changed when they bought KitchenAid from Hobart. As for the corrosion, I asked the same question a couple of weeks ago about my "new" KitchenAid KUDS230B0 I recently picked up. The thread on that is linked below. CLICK HERE TO GO TO barcoboy's LINK | ||
| Post# 959339 , Reply# 18 9/26/2017 at 20:37 (2,395 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
|
| ||
| Post# 959859 , Reply# 20 9/29/2017 at 18:34 (2,393 days old) by jkbff (Happy Rock, ND) | ||
|
View Full Size
| ||
| Post# 959913 , Reply# 21 9/30/2017 at 12:10 (2,392 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
|
Sorry for my lack of response. I haven't been feeling very well the past few days. I think I have BPPV, as I have vertigo when I wake up in the morning... makes me very nauseous.
My opinion would be if you see rust, it is best to sand it off before covering it with epoxy, as it will only spread if not removed. I have never changed a detergent dispenser before, but it doesn't look too complicated. Of course make sure you turn off the power to the dishwasher before working on it by shutting off the breaker. Unplug the wires off of the bi-metals, and then remove the eight screws holding the dispenser to the door. The new dispenser should come with a new gasket, so make sure that all of the old gasket is off before installing the new dispenser. Once it is installed and new bi-metals installed to it, adjusted so that they just catch the dispenser doors, and then wired up, run a full cycle to test the doors and watch for drips. | ||
| Post# 959943 , Reply# 23 9/30/2017 at 17:11 (2,392 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod) | ||
 | ||
| Forum Index: |
| Other Forums: |
|
|
|
|
|
Comes to the Rescue!
;){kind=link}
;){kind=link}