Thread Number: 73721  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Changing trans oil in two belt Maytags
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Post# 973719   12/15/2017 at 02:13 (311 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        

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I have a 1974 Maytag A407 I was wondering how hard it is to change the muck in the trans. Im sure by now its almost tar because in winter with a cold basement the agitator takes a few minutes to come up to speed. Can it be done in the machine by taking the spin basket and tub out and removing the top cover of the trans or does it have to come all the way out? I want to do this and replace the leaking top seal and also install a like new tub bearing off a 1966 A500 that has the large oil wick inside as my bearing I think is worn because I get a clunking when spinning. Thanks.

Post# 973766 , Reply# 1   12/15/2017 at 09:43 (311 days old) by cadman (Cedar Falls, IA)        

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You can do it in the machine exactly as you describe with the bottom half of the trans left in place. After getting the old muck out, replace with Redline MT-90 oil from an auto parts store. Your Maytag will perform like new, even in the coldest temps.

Post# 973905 , Reply# 2   12/15/2017 at 23:34 (310 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        

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Thanks cadman. How many quarts of that oil should I get? Im wondering if I should replace the nylon gear inside the trans while its all apart? I also have to find the part numbers for the tub bracket hardware and washers online so I can replace those as well.

Post# 974033 , Reply# 3   12/16/2017 at 14:05 (310 days old) by potatochips (Nova Scotia)        

John L had mentioned tapping a hole in the side of the transmission and draining the oil that way, and pumping new oil in. Although I have never tried it myself, I think it would be a lot easier to do than tear the whole machine down. UNLESS, of course, you plan on replacing the tub bearing anyways.

Post# 974131 , Reply# 4   12/16/2017 at 22:19 (309 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        
I was wondering how hard it is to change the muck

Leaving the trans in place won't make the job any easier, in fact it will make for a difficult mess.

It's not like changing the oil in your car. It will be thick, oxidized and clinging to the gears like molasses. The right way is to remove the trans (which is easy once the tub is off), disassemble and wash it out with solvent, even then it takes some effort to clean off all the old oil.

I would use Sta-Lube GL-4 gear lube which is safe with yellow metal bearings. Nylon gear is probably reusable. More common issues are worn lower o-ring seal, worn or corroded agitator shaft, damper pads, motor glides, tub rust.

Essentially you're looking at a near full rebuild of the machine. There a several good posts on the subject with part numbers.

Post# 974245 , Reply# 5   12/17/2017 at 13:01 (309 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        

Here is a more meticulous rebuild of a DC Maytag.

Some steps can be left out and certain parts cleaned, reused depending on condition, such as the brake package removal and rebuild.

Post# 974307 , Reply# 6   12/17/2017 at 18:28 (309 days old) by cadman (Cedar Falls, IA)        

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Hi John,

One quart of the MT-90 was sufficient, just refill to near top of the trans lower case half. No need to tear the entire machine apart unless you're planning on a full resto. GL-4 is okay, but won't be as forgiving in cold environments.

With the trans left in place, you can use a small paper cup to scoop out the majority of the oil (it will flow, even in cold temps). Being a 3D case, what's left will collect in a low point where you can wipe it out with a couple paper towels. No muss, fuss. If the nylon looks good and there are no fine metal particles, I'd refill, install the new gasket, and reassemble.

Post# 974327 , Reply# 7   12/17/2017 at 19:48 (308 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        
No need to tear the entire machine apart

To get the point where the top of the trans can be removed the entire machine is (almost) apart.

All that is needed then to release the trans is removing one small phillips head machine screw securing the pulley.

Also, the damper pads should be inspected, lubed or replaced as needed, which is much easier without the heavy transmission flopping around.

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