Thread Number: 74285  /  Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
Are these "real" Maytag designed/built machines?
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Post# 980808   2/1/2018 at 00:48 (234 days old) by Stricklybojack (San Diego, CA)        

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Gotta get a handle on what's what with this brand.


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Post# 980818 , Reply# 1   2/1/2018 at 05:05 (233 days old) by appnut (TX)        

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If it has a plastic tub, then it's a Norgetag.  If it has a porcelain tub, then it's got the Dependable Care heritage. But givene the width of the lid, I suspect it's the former. 


Post# 980830 , Reply# 2   2/1/2018 at 08:18 (233 days old) by Whitetub (Montreal, Canada)        

Judging also by the dryer door handle, I say Norge, not real Maytag.

Maytag Performa models.


Post# 980918 , Reply# 3   2/1/2018 at 22:59 (233 days old) by Stricklybojack (San Diego, CA)        

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How about these?


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Post# 980930 , Reply# 4   2/2/2018 at 01:14 (233 days old) by chetlaham (United States)        
Fake washer

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Looks fake to me.

Post# 980937 , Reply# 5   2/2/2018 at 05:44 (232 days old) by Whitetub (Montreal, Canada)        

Washer is a Norge tag. But the dryer is a real Maytag, on the last set you showed.

Post# 980962 , Reply# 6   2/2/2018 at 09:53 (232 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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the 'Atlantis' set-ups are really nice....

huge capacity, it does have the DAA, but preference goes for the ones with the Stainless tubs....

the 30 day dispenser is a nice feature....


good performers, pumps were a weak area for some....

some had transmission problems, but have never came across one that did....

a one belt design, as long as the glide is lubricated, it functions very well...


Post# 981043 , Reply# 7   2/2/2018 at 18:58 (232 days old) by appnut (TX)        

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Those were TOL Atlantis models.  Think these were the initial Atlantis lineup. 


Post# 981067 , Reply# 8   2/2/2018 at 22:50 (232 days old) by twintubdexter (Palm Springs)        
Maytag MAV9600EWW

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How do you determine these (second photo/push buttons) are Norge machines? Just by looking at the outside? I have a similar washer, tub is stainless steel and there's a detergent dispenser built in the lid. Instruction book says Dependable Care on the front but of course that means nothing. So it's my understanding that ALL Maytags with that exact same console and the slanted front are Norge. Interesting. It really makes no difference to me. At least when I open the front things look almost exactly the same as the Maytag washers I worked on many years ago. Transmission looks the same. Poly pump's a little different. The OUTER tub is porcelain-blue plastic. The spinning power unit warning decal is comforting. I really don't care who made it or even if it's from Newton China. 

 

The machine is getting old, about 16 years now. I was going to get a new/last year's Speed Queen but they seem to be going fast. I'd have to decide quickly. One thing I like is that the top of the washer and the dryer I have are porcelain. I don't think the Speed Queen's are. I use the top of both for folding and stuff. The top of the KitchenAid dryer I had in my other house was painted and it didn't wear well. I have a feeling that something major will probably go wrong soon that I don't feel like repairing and I'll regret not getting the new SQ. I did watch a couple of videos on the new 2018 Speed Queen washer and can't believe that thing is supposed to get your clothes clean. One shaft for the agitator and tub. Reminds me of when the Skinny Mini came out but at least in that the clothes moved around a little. One thing's for sure, I don't know half as much as I thought I did about washers. 

 

PS...I did find an interesting video on how to turn my washer into a fire pit...like I could do that to an old friend.

 

 




This post was last edited 02/02/2018 at 23:10
Post# 981082 , Reply# 9   2/3/2018 at 05:48 (231 days old) by DADoES (TX,†U.S. of A.)        

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One way to determine a "real" Maytag if one has physical access to the machine is look underneath for two belts:† 1) motor --> transmission and 2) motor --> pump.† Norgetags and Amanatags have one belt that drives both the transmission and pump.


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Post# 981101 , Reply# 10   2/3/2018 at 11:44 (231 days old) by twintubdexter (Palm Springs)        
thanks for the info

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Well that makes it easy to get the "T"...So there's been an impostor in my laundry room all these years. Oh the humility, the shame...

 

Now whenever I look at it I see my mother's noisy old Time Line.


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Post# 981253 , Reply# 11   2/4/2018 at 14:45 (230 days old) by Real1 (Eastern WA)        

This is my Neptune set. As in the second set of photos, my controls are from the same vintage. I have no idea if these are 'real' Maytags or not. I do know there are in the 'dreaded' series that caused the Class Action Law Suit that Maytag famously lost. 

 

Mine have 'provenance'....lol. Bought them from a gal in the country with five boys. Said the machines worked fine....she was a inveterate liar. Got 'em home...cold water only and when spinning it sounded like a jet taking off in my basement. New wax switch, repaired circuit board and new tub bearings & seal. Dryer had about a pound of lint just inches from the element. 13+ yrs now since I repaired it all and no bumps in the road.

 

I'm pretty sure the country lady got a hefty settlement from Maytag and was going to buy a new set.....the time frame was perfect for all that.

 

Kevin

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Post# 981256 , Reply# 12   2/4/2018 at 14:54 (230 days old) by Stricklybojack (San Diego, CA)        

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I like that style of Neptune the best and will likely someday find a pair.
I offered $50 for a set with a bad bearing being offered for $150...I guess they got they're money from someone who doesn't know what a bad bearing sounds like, because the ad was taken down.


Post# 981258 , Reply# 13   2/4/2018 at 15:15 (230 days old) by Real1 (Eastern WA)        

Hmmmm....sorry that set slipped away for you. That's what I paid for mine over 13 yrs ago, but I had no idea what I was getting into...lol.

 

They are my first set with a FL washer, so I've had nothing previously to compare with. The dryer is pretty conventional, but the cycle that senses for moisture is my favorite and when the moisture is gone, the cycle ends...like that! Depending on what I'm drying, the cycle could run as short as 15 mins.

 

Kevin


Post# 981275 , Reply# 14   2/4/2018 at 16:15 (230 days old) by DADoES (TX,†U.S. of A.)        

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Neptunes MAH3000, MAH4000, MAH5500, MAH6500, and MAH7500 are real Maytags (also the funky FAV6800 and FAV9800 Neptune TL).

Neptunes MAH6700, MAH8700 and MAH9700 are fake (Samsung).


Post# 981317 , Reply# 15   2/5/2018 at 00:22 (230 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

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Yeah, I had a fake Neptune Samungtag.....sent it back!  That thing wouldn't balance two dry feathers in the drum.  I don't know what Maytag was thinking by partnering with Samsung on that deal....


Post# 982219 , Reply# 16   2/10/2018 at 21:08 (224 days old) by stricklybojack (San Diego, CA)        

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I guess this is an Atlantis, which is a real Maytag?
This would be akin to a Dependable Care under the skin, or NorgeTag?


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Post# 982222 , Reply# 17   2/10/2018 at 22:01 (224 days old) by potatochips (Nova Scotia)        

Ahh Robert, that machine there is a Dependable Care. I have a TOL machine from the same era. Whats neat is Maytag used the same control panel for the Dependable Care, Atlantis, and Neptune machines. All three of which were different designs entirely.

The giveaway is the cabinet and lid designs.



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Post# 982223 , Reply# 18   2/10/2018 at 22:48 (224 days old) by stricklybojack (San Diego, CA)        

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Those look nice. Thanks for the heads up on the common control panel on the three very different machines.
I made an offer on the machine in the picture. It has a leak of some sort so I offered $40 for the pair.


Post# 982284 , Reply# 19   2/11/2018 at 10:05 (223 days old) by appnut (TX)        

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From what I've understood from reading here, the last of the Dependable care (read real old fashioned Maytags with the short-stroke transmission) had tub seal issue because the tub porcelain had gotten applied thinner. 


Post# 982295 , Reply# 20   2/11/2018 at 10:34 (223 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, the Netherlands)        

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IIRC the last model was the LAT3600.

Post# 982424 , Reply# 21   2/11/2018 at 23:56 (223 days old) by stricklybojack (San Diego, CA)        

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So the thin porcelain would fail and rust would develop?
The one I am looking at leaks a little apparently.
I don't want a battle on my hands trying to fix the leak.


Post# 982495 , Reply# 22   2/12/2018 at 15:15 (222 days old) by potatochips (Nova Scotia)        

I think Bobs right, in conjunction with the change in the seal design when Maytag removed the large rubber seal for the agitator shaft to a thinner one.

Robert, which washer will you be buying? The one in your first post or the one like I have? This is important as the seal replacement on the one like I have, although semi-invasive, is inexpensive and easy.


Post# 982509 , Reply# 23   2/12/2018 at 17:29 (222 days old) by stricklybojack (San Diego, CA)        

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Machines just like yours.
I have read up on past threads about this issue and it seems I need this part...emiright?


CLICK HERE TO GO TO stricklybojack's LINK on eBay


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Post# 982537 , Reply# 24   2/12/2018 at 20:57 (222 days old) by potatochips (Nova Scotia)        

Ahh not so fast, more than likely its the tub seal that needs to be replaced, but getting the machine home and opening it up will tell you exactly whats wrong.

This is more than likey what youll need. But you may as well replace the bearing too while youre down there, especially if it is the agitator seal that leaked, it may have damaged the bearing too.

www.repairclinic.com/Part...
www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/...


Post# 982542 , Reply# 25   2/12/2018 at 21:47 (222 days old) by good-shepherd (New Jersey)        
it seems I need this part...emiright?

No, late model DC Maytag washers dropped the agitator seal in favor of a triple lip seal mounting stem.

However, an agitator seal can be used with the new style stem.


Post# 982570 , Reply# 26   2/13/2018 at 01:12 (222 days old) by thomasortega (Los Angeles - CA)        

It reminds Darryl's Neptune will probably have serious bearings issues in about 1 year or so.

I can even imagine will will be his next washer and dryer pair.... LG Signature.


Post# 982576 , Reply# 27   2/13/2018 at 02:19 (221 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, the Netherlands)        

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Silly me was wrong, the last model wasn't the LAT but the LAV 3600.

Post# 983627 , Reply# 28   2/20/2018 at 19:03 (214 days old) by appnut (TX)        

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Just remembered these pieces of trivia last Friday.  My sister in Dallas got an Atlantis set not too soon after they came out.  I didn't realize the "evil" lurking underneath them until after she'd had them a while.  She sold them when she moved from Dallas to the Austin area.  Have a coworker who bought "Maytags" that turned out to most likely be the Norgetags.  She had nothing but problems with them and ended up souring her on the brand Maytag for the rest of her life. 


Post# 985939 , Reply# 29   3/9/2018 at 14:05 (197 days old) by john76 (USA)        
LAT2300

Iíve been curious about my Maytag combo and this thread has shed some light on the matter. The serial number indicates it was made in February 2002 according to this link:

www.electrical-forensics....

I found a YouTube video showing someone replacing the tub seal which shows it has a steel outer drum.






I bought this new and it has worked flawlessly for 15 years as well as the matching dryer. I recently cleaned up the unit, replaced the fill hoses and installed a new vent kit. I donít wish to jinx myself, but should this break, is it worth repairing? I like the short cycle times and the ability to choose the water level. The tag with the model number indicates it was made in Newton, Iowa.


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Post# 985943 , Reply# 30   3/9/2018 at 15:02 (197 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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John....you have a true two belt Maytag....

the orbital tranny, the metal outter tub, spins counter-clockwise....porcelain tub...ALL Maytag

Norge design has a bigger agitator, plastic or stainless tub, spins clockwise...it does have a dual drive transmission, no counterweight...there are pros and cons to this design, I have had two of the Atlantis design, liked the stainless better, really nice machine...held up well for me.....will probably add one to the collection...


Post# 986150 , Reply# 31   3/11/2018 at 08:10 (195 days old) by john76 (USA)        

Thanks for the info. Is there any preventative maintenance that would make sense to extend the life of either the washer or dryer. I recently ran a load of bleach followed up with a load of white vinegar which helped clean up the interior of the washer and eliminate some odors. I replaced the original fill hoses and put in a new vent kit for the dryer and noticed the flow of water into the washer improved as well as the exhaust out of the dryer vent.

Does replacing the drive belts proactively make sense or should I adopt the attitude that if itís not broke, donít fix it?


Post# 986156 , Reply# 32   3/11/2018 at 09:11 (195 days old) by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
Maintenance On A 15 YO Maytag Pair

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The washer does not need much, replacing the belts will only help if they look bad [ burned spots severe cracking etc ] Most important thing you can do with ANY washer is to avoid mineral and scum build-ups in the outer tub area. This is best done by always washing in warm or hot water using plenty of GOOD detergent and bleach will also help, A washer should never develop an odor.

 

On the dryer it would probably pay to disassemble it clean it and add a drop of oil to the bearings on the two rear rollers and idler pulley, also replace the belt and front bearing slides if they slow signs of wear cracks etc.

 

Other than this keep using them.

 

John L.


Post# 986157 , Reply# 33   3/11/2018 at 09:16 (195 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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Washer--

found it best to inspect the belt, any signs of wear or splitting, then it would be time for a new one....

check and clean all inlet filters....

and most times, best to open the machine up, remove the splash shield, and clean all areas of soap scum build up....sometimes you have to remove the perforated tub, I think there are only 6 bolts on a Norge design....a long brush that you can slide down between the tubs can be very effective also....clean underside of agitator and areas....

check the motor glides for wear, or lubrication.....



Dryer--

the main thing, lint..and cleaning it out from the whole vent system, from the filter on out....and underneath...a vacuum will help, but compressed air is better...

inspect the belt for wear or cracking.......

lubrication for the bearings/rollers

final touches would be a good car wax and buff on both machines....


Post# 988541 , Reply# 34   3/27/2018 at 22:30 by Stricklybojack (San Diego, CA)        

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I am guessing two belt Maytag, emiright?


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Post# 988545 , Reply# 35   3/27/2018 at 23:12 by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
Nope

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Norge, All MT TL Washers with that slanted front cabinet are Norges.

John L.


Post# 988563 , Reply# 36   3/28/2018 at 06:51 by vacerator (Macomb, Michigan)        
"The tangled webs"

some weave, when it is practiced to deceive. Aside from causing confusion.
Some folks yawn and buy them anyway too.
A K A, also as like the Cadillac Cimarron. It was a Chevy Cadaver Cavalier.
Of course the large Caddy's were't much better then, unlike a Maytag Dependable care. The 368 6 litre V8-6-4 didn't work, but was a cast iron engine, and ran fine with a wire unplugged for the rocker arm solenoids. The 4.1 litre V8 was junk, and the Northstar a bit better, but still junk.


Post# 991267 , Reply# 37   4/18/2018 at 16:00 by wft2800 (Leatherhead, Surrey)        

I get the impression that most complaints about the Northstar are essentially "but why does it need four camshafts? Muh ol' Chevy did just fine with one! Gimme back muh pushrods!".

Post# 991397 , Reply# 38   4/19/2018 at 10:53 by vacerator (Macomb, Michigan)        
I think a Chevy

cast iron V8 couldn't get 30 miles per gallon? The 4 valves per cylinder help it breathe. It was also lighter. The complaints were purely durability related.
The Northstar had plenty of power and torque.
It isn't the only junk engine around. The small Range Rover had a V6 that would seize up if it ran too low on coolant, and very buisy owners who didn't check it in time were not warned by a light or gauge until too late.
There was also a Shortstar version V6 used in the Oldsmobile Aurora and Intrigue.
While the lighter Chevrolet designed LS1 V8 of the 90's got better fuel economy, and may have been able to be used by Cadillac, their engineers always wanted the highest technology, because they could sell it. Cadillac buyers were well heeled upper middle class to wealthy. They wouldn't buy a car with a Chevy engine if they knew it. Sales proved so with the early 90's Fleetwood and Brougham sedans with the 5.7 cast iron Chevy made corporate mill. Lincoln sales were killing them.
The aluminum block with cast iron head 41. to 4.9 litre high tech Cadillac mill was even worse than the Northstar. Many have been replaced with remanufactured engines because the bodies lasted a long time. There are still many Deville's, Eldorados, and Sevilles on the roads from that era.
If it wasn't broken, GM, and Cadillac broke them. From engines to transmissions. The V8-6-4 of 1981 was a failure because of a slow clock speed processor. It ran fine though for years on all 8 cylinders.
The next modulated displacement GM engine was in the 2007 through 2011 Impala SS. It had a 5.3 litre V8 but was terrible with fluid leaks.





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