Thread Number: 74898  /  Tag: Wringer Washers
Just got my first wringer washer, and it needs a little work so I need some help
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Post# 987077   3/17/2018 at 23:43 (217 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Hello all! I just bought and brought home my first wringer washwr! A maytag E2LP, with a red agitator, for only $50! It agitates fine thank goodness, but the wringer wont turn at all and the bottom roller comes out of its holder, and the pump will not work.
The lever work and correctly moves the pump wheel into place, but the pump wheel will not turn. It has a flat spot on it from being rubbed, and when I take the pump off to turn it manually, the wheel unscrews and screws in, and when it screws in, it stops. When unscrewed to be loser, water leaks from the center of the pump. What am I missing with this thing? Why would the wheel to turn the pump unscrew and screw in? I am confused by that. As for the wringer, the ringer post turns when i pop off the wringer, but no mechanisms inside the wringer turn. I was able to manually turn it by taking off the top of the wringer and fitting the roller into its holder and turning it with a lot of force, but it barely moved. Also, what is the best/easiest way to clean the tub, the agitator, and to get the rust off the metal below the agitator? Thank you! All help is greatly appriciated!

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Post# 987083 , Reply# 1   3/18/2018 at 01:01 (217 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

A little update... After playing with the machine some more, the wringer started to work intermittently on its own, after i figured out how to separate the two halves and put that bottom roller back in place. The whole wringer started to move its entire body, and then i saw the rollers start and stop. Now it works fine in reverse, but intermittantly in forward.

Post# 987088 , Reply# 2   3/18/2018 at 01:52 (217 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Another update... The wringer is now working fully, except if it is grabbing something large, then the whole thing sometimes spins around, and also I am pretty sure the safety release does not work correctly. Also, now when I throw the pump switch, it stops the motor as makes the lights dim, so something is very wrong with that lol. I also cannot gravity drain because it only drains a trickle. It may be worth noting that some very old acorns came out of the hose while the seller and I were testing the machine.

Post# 987173 , Reply# 3   3/18/2018 at 19:07 (217 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
A few words in your shell like ears....

launderess's profile picture
While the urge is understandable, sometimes it does pay not to rush into doing too much with a vintage washer upon arrival.

All machinery that has been sat sitting for prolonged periods of time need and or should have a going over before restarting into service.

First and foremost suggest you make a through search through the archives of this group; many have gone this route before you and generously posted step by step information (often including pictures) of their work.

First thing you want to do is attempt to lift the agitator. If it does not shift easily (and it very well may not), then there is a good chance it is stuck to the shaft and must be freed. How "stuck" can be anything from required several good pulls, to needing major work. But make no mistake the agitator must come off at some point. Again search archives as to why.....

Next thing is to check for leaks of transmission oil. Again all is contained in archives but you want to look at the left rear leg area; perhaps going underneath with a flashlight.

Leaking transmission oil was a fairly common thing with these vintage Maytag wringer washers. The extent of and so forth is what matters. It could be something benign as washer being tipped forward (on front where decal and power shift knob are located... *NEVER DO THIS*), or pointing towards a more serious problem. This would be and normally is caused by water getting past tub seals and into the transmission. As time goes by the former displaces the oil which runs down bottom of tub and onto left leg....

No offence, but your Maytag looks a bit rough; as if she was rode hard and put away wet. Thus it wouldn't be a surprise if more than a few things need attention. This is normal.

You can purchase via this website various owners and or repair manuals for Maytag wringers, or seek out elsewhere. You will need the latter most as it describes in full detail proper working of various parts, troubleshooting and or replacement if required. It is very important until fully familiar with this washer not to do too much too soon. Otherwise damage to parts/system can occur and then you'll have to hunt down replacements.

If am being honest your machine is a prime candidate for stripping down and giving an overhaul. You want to see the state of oil in transmission/power unit, that is if there is any left at all. It could have turned into nasty muck which will want cleaning out. Happily Maytag over engineered these washers so they will run even with no or bad oil in transmission/power unit; but for how long is another matter.

Post# 987198 , Reply# 4   3/18/2018 at 22:48 (216 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Thank you for reply. I have taken the agitator off, a few times now and that bit works fine. One of the pictures I uploaded shows the agitator drive and the area around it. The tub itself is in great shape, except for that central area under the agitator that to me looks like it just needs some kind of cleaning. There is old dryed oil on the back left leg, and some new oil which is likely from the precarious ways in which i had to get it into the building it went into. I had to go up about 5 feet, and it did turn upside down for part of that. I did not mean to do that but it happened, and I knew of the oil issue before that happening. The good news is that the new oil looks quite fresh, and I would assume there is a decent amount more in the power unit. The only thing that is actually broken now is the pump and I have a thought that an acorn could be stuck down in it. And the tub to pump hose needs replacing. Other than that, it is all painting and cleaning. Im sure it would be a great thing to take it apart and replace the oil in the power unit, but I dont know if I want to do that as it might be over my head.
Also as a side note, I am just asking for help and dont want to be insulted, even if my questions are dumb. The whole thing about shell like ears is kind of upsetting. But thank you for trying to help too.

Post# 987203 , Reply# 5   3/19/2018 at 00:12 (216 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

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Was not intending to be "insulting", shell like ears comment not withstanding.

Shan't bother again, don't worry.

Post# 987207 , Reply# 6   3/19/2018 at 01:27 (216 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Well if you didnt mean it that way, then I am sorry if I took it that way. Maybe you meant it as more of a joking poke but I could not tell because it is only in text. Sorry.

Post# 987210 , Reply# 7   3/19/2018 at 01:49 (216 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Well if you didnt mean it that way, then I am sorry if I took it that way. Maybe you meant it as more of a joking poke but I could not tell because it is only in text. Sorry.

Post# 987211 , Reply# 8   3/19/2018 at 01:50 (216 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Did not mean to post that twice. Sorry.

Post# 987267 , Reply# 9   3/19/2018 at 13:44 (216 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
Sound like your getting to know ur machine...Just from reading so far, sounds like you have a clog. The water should drain when hose is lowered (gravity) something could have gotten down the drain hole.
Taking the tub to pump hose is a good place to start, even if you are not replacing at this time, see if it's got something in it. With a light, check the drain hole. If nothing, continue down the line to pump and drain hose. The inside if your tub looks normal for its age. A little soapy water and some extra fine steel wool with do wonders, or a SOS pad, light preasure. But you have to get it to drain first so you can rinse it out good.
A little BarKeepers Freind used on the rusty spots of the outside of the machine will help those spots.
A little oil dripping down the rear left leg is kinda normal for a machine of this age, just as long as it doesn't become excessive. Also sounds like you need a new pump, or pump wheel assembly. Engaging the pump should not slow the motor. Something ain't right there
Keep us posted with your progress

Post# 987268 , Reply# 10   3/19/2018 at 13:49 (216 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        
Wringer operation

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Post# 987269 , Reply# 11   3/19/2018 at 13:57 (216 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        
As Laundress has suggested

stan's profile picture
Machinery that has set for long periods of time need going over.
Think it would be good to do the lubracating as well

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Post# 987328 , Reply# 12   3/19/2018 at 21:21 (215 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Thank you stan, for your replies and pictures of the manual! This is very helpful. I believe the first thing I will do is take off the pump and tub to pump hose to see what is in it. The tub to pump hose seems ruined to me as it has cracks in it also, and the pump drain is also hard as a rock and was difficult to get the hook out of its holder and will not go back in. That hose may also have cracks in it but i dont remember off the top of my head. After that I will clean the tub, and thanks by the way for the advice on cleaning the tub and the outside rust! I am happy that at least the tub is in good shape! Then I can do a solid test wash after the hoses are replaced and pump works to see if any water leaks out any of the bolts or into the oil. I am very hopeful that it is all solid, but I do have it in my mind now that I may want to change out the power unit's oil eventually anyway. I feel like if kept in good condition, the transmission could last forever. However I am not ready to get in over my head with something like that. I would for sure be able to wash for a while with just fixing the pump and hoses and cleaning. I will also want to replace the electrical cord as it has many taped and broken areas and it is not grounded. When I do that I will probably blow all the dust bunnies out of the motor and oil it if i can. Also the wringer needs work for sure. It jumps forward on its own when it is set in the forward direction and it is terrifying! It seems like it could jump at my fingers and eat them if I was wringing clothes! I would also have to do something with its drip plate as that is heavily corroded, and it all needs oiling too. The wringer does turn at least though. I do have another question... What would be a good way to clean the bakelite agitator? Besides washing off the dust. Or is there no way to clean it beyond that? Thank you very much!

Post# 987347 , Reply# 13   3/20/2018 at 00:57 (215 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

It took me a while, but I got the pump off! It is gunked up with a hard material and the pump's tube was almost completely blocked! Now to take it apart and clean it and get it to spin! Also, I am hoping the rubber wheel isnt too out of dhape to use!

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Post# 987348 , Reply# 14   3/20/2018 at 01:05 (215 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

I hope it is okay for these ends of the pump to look like this.

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Post# 987415 , Reply# 15   3/20/2018 at 13:51 (215 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

I have removed all the screws that hold the pump together. I will have to pry it apart a little bit. The big gasket will most likely be destroyed from taking this apart, so I think I may use one of those gasket sheets to cut out a new one. Has anyone done this before? Does it work well?

Post# 987418 , Reply# 16   3/20/2018 at 14:15 (215 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

This is probably why the pump wont turn! And it wreeks!

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Post# 987495 , Reply# 17   3/21/2018 at 01:36 (214 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
That thing looks like it was brought up from the Titanic!
Unless your going to gravity drain, you need a new one. You could try soaking it in CLR or something.. nothing to loose.
I think this is a good example of not draining the machine and the pump after use. Water was allowed to sit in the pump.
At this point, if it were me, I'd get a bucket, put it under the drain hole in the tub. Find something to plug the hole (maybe a cork) and try filling the wash tun with hot water. Let's test and see if the tub will hold water? If it dose, you can pull the plug and drain into the bucket. If it won't hold water, then you have bigger problems.
At that point you need to read the thread "Moving a Maytag E" That's Larry's thread, was long, but he rebuilt his from ground up, and shows how the gear oil is used in the power unit AKA transmission.. He took lots of useful pics along the way.
Hopefully you won't have to go that far.. Still its one of the best for info on these.
You said that it "jumps forward" ?Are you talking about the wringer head swinging around when trying to put something through?
The agitator.. Maybe start with some BonAmi, then some mag wheel polish?
Others have done this, just can't remember what they used.
You might post a new thread just about the agitator

Post# 987504 , Reply# 18   3/21/2018 at 03:33 (214 days old) by RP2813 (The Big Blue Bubble)        

rp2813's profile picture

Brasso works well on bakelite.  I've used it on bakelite components of some of my antique telephones and they have shined up nicely.

Post# 987528 , Reply# 19   3/21/2018 at 10:49 (214 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Thank you both for your replies about the agitator! I will look into these cleaners.
And Stan, I know right!?! It does look like a piece of a ship wreck! I think it is a combination of soap buildup and rust, but also sawdust and other junk that fell down its drain as it sat over the years. It looks to me like it sat outside for a while and so could have gotten extra clogged from that. As for the pump, I think it is actually still usable. The stuff on it is very brittle and not hard to break off. The impeller is still underneath it and seems to me to be fully intact. I have not cleaned it yet but will show you when I do. Maybe I could soak it in some acidic water to disolve the soap? Like citric acid. I wanted to show a pic of it just because it is so intense!
Good idea about filling the tub and plugging the hole! I will do that! I am hoping it holds water! I know i had filled the machine with a small amount of water to test if it leaked before i bought it, and it was fine before i started messing with the pump and its hoses. However, I did not fill it higher than the start of the drive shaft of the agitator, I am pretty sure.
Yes, sort of. The wringer locks into place but it does swing toward me when it is turned on in forward mode, clicking all the clicks when it does. There must be something wrong with the index slide.
I have read the begining part of that thread twice and have it open on another tab to read further! It is a good thread! Thank you!

Post# 987610 , Reply# 20   3/21/2018 at 23:31 (213 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

I just finished with testing my machine with water in it and agitating. After the first half hour or so I was eagerly ready to report that there were no leaks, but I left it running for over an hour, and when I came back to check for the last time, it was leaking water and oil right out of the breather hole. I had left a pan underneath just in case of this. It mostly leaks when the agitator is engaged and stops when it is not. Before doing any testing I was mentally preparing myself in case I did have to take apart the transmission, and coming to agreement that even if it worked I would still want to take it apart eventually, as there was grease all over the machine's underside. Now to go read that thread in full...

Photo 1 is before it leaked but while it was agitating, but after some wiping. Photo 2 is after it leaked.

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Post# 987621 , Reply# 21   3/22/2018 at 02:01 (213 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        
I've seen worse

stan's profile picture
There's only one thing I can think of to try.. Plummers goop around each bolt. This may stop the long as that's were the water is coming from?
My Maytag is about the same age as yours (1954) and on occasion it will leak about a spoonful of goopy oil through the breather hole. It's only once in a while, so l leave well enough alone.
Not sure about you wringer.. Maybe some of the teeth (gears) are broken off the index slide..You probably need a new one, but you got bigger fish to fry with the leak.
Let me ask you this.. Are you attached to the old girl yet? Or do you think you may be better off hunting down another? Don't want to discourage you, as they can be great projects, and can bring a sense of personal satisfaction. We here will appreciate your efforts and will cheer you on. But felt I had to throw that out to you.

Post# 987623 , Reply# 22   3/22/2018 at 02:19 (213 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Hmm. I am not attached to it really, however I am a bit invested just from putting in so much effort to bringing it from where I bought it into the building where it is now. I had to take apart the door frame and cut out a tiny piece of a stud and lift it multiple times 5 feet up on my own! Hah! It is a thrown together construction type of building not like a real wall. I also had to keep the machine discreet the whole time so no one at my house would know that I bought it.

I have spent $50 on the machine, so i am not too monetarily in deep for it. However, it is very unlikely that I would find another in great working condition for so cheap, that is also the square version and has a pump already. Also any one that I buy will need to have its transmission taken apart at some time or another to change out its grease, so I dont really see a lot of reason to go for a different one anyway. Thank you for the suggestion though!

As for the leak, it leaked large globs of oil and a lot of water through the breather hole in a short time, and I am thinking it is leaking from the agitator shaft most likely because it does have a small amount of play in it, and I dont see any water around the outside of the PU. At some points the leak was a steady stream of water.
The taking apart, cleaning, regreasing, and putting back together of the PU and the wringer drive dont seem too scary to me, but the finding replacement gaskets and other replacement pieces part is what scares me. I dont know where i would get any replacement parts, including the index slide, and any thick rubber gaskets. I could maybe find replacement circular gaskets, and could likely cut out new thin gaskets out of gasket material, maybe. What do you think?

Post# 987624 , Reply# 23   3/22/2018 at 02:27 (213 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Just checked and one of the teeth is broken off the index slide indeed.

Post# 987626 , Reply# 24   3/22/2018 at 03:18 (213 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Also this washer was close to down the street from my house which was cool, and it helped because I carried the washer strapped in to the trunk of my car, with a tarp over it for discretion. Haha!

Post# 987672 , Reply# 25   3/22/2018 at 12:20 (213 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        
With Phil

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And Dave retired, I'm kinda lost. There was a Amish groups that did repairs a parts.. I'll have to search

Post# 987679 , Reply# 26   3/22/2018 at 13:21 (213 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Thank you! And oddly enough, I found some parts that phil is selling on ebay still. I will have to call his number and not his store number next time i call him. When I called the store, a lady said he is retiring and selling off the last of his stock.
Also if I know what gaskets I need, I think I could cut out some replacement ones of my own.

Post# 987724 , Reply# 27   3/22/2018 at 19:19 (213 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Okay Stan, now I agree with you on needing a new pump. I cleaned it enough for it to turn, but one of its impellers is completely gone! Rusted off and destroyed. I am pretty sure, but not 100% that it will not work with only 3 impeller blades.
It really underscores the importance of rinsing the machine and draining all water when done. Also I believe the machine has been left out in the rain, due to the dark water lines in the tub... Poor thing.
I just count myself lucky that the tub, and the other metal parts are all in good shape, just not the gaskets and parts of the wringer.

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Post# 987749 , Reply# 28   3/23/2018 at 00:12 (212 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        
If your gong to restore

stan's profile picture
this machine...and Phil is winding down, I'd get a hold of him sooner rather than later.
He use to carry all the gaskets.. much easier than tying to cut your own, he may have a pump, and the tub to pump hose is unique, and hard to make due without a correct replacement, so get one if he's got one. Maybe a spare belt, and the index slide, agitator ect
If you've read Larry's thread, and your gong to go that route, your going to need to get or borrow a gulmite wrench to remove the tub bolts to seperate tub from the Power Unit.
Wonder if that pump would work with only three impellers! or would it be off balance?
Put it back in and let us know! LOL

Post# 987755 , Reply# 29   3/23/2018 at 01:20 (212 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

I sent Phil an email a few days ago and heard nothing, however, I just sent him a message on ebay which seems like a platform where he is more active. I agree that it would be easier to just buy the gasket kit, however, if I still have this machine 40 years or so from now, and it comes time to do this maintenance all over again, I would have to cut them myself most likely. That doesnt matter now though if I can get the kit! I hope he has a pump. He actually does have a tub to pump hose for sale, but it is used, so it may not be in the best condition. Why is it so unique? Why cant I just make my own?
He also has the wide tub to center plate gasket, and the other one that fits in the groove, and a worm shaft pulley gasket, but it would be better to buy them all as a kit.
I hope he has an index slide also.
There are other ebay sellers with belts and agitators for sale, and both of those of mine are also in good shape so I will probably wait on those. I do eventually want a turquoise agitator though so I can switch them out for fun!
As for the bolts, I dont know where I would get that crazy wrench... I was just thinking of dremeling a slot into the tops of them and replacing them with normal bolts, however I cant be sure they will come out with that method.
If I cant find all the parts I need then I may have to go to a machine shop with the broken part and see if they can make a new one, if that is how they work anyway. I would have the pump impeller made out of plastic or silicone or something so it could never rust again!
And lol I will have to clean it up more to test it... but I cant test it with water easily lol, only to see if it runs.

Post# 987777 , Reply# 30   3/23/2018 at 11:42 (212 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Possible source for parts. And my 2 cents worthof experience

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I have read here on the forum that Lehman carries parts for wringer washers, although it is not listed in their store inventory. I called the phone number and she said they did (at that time)
This is the Amish store Stan was referring to.

Also on Ebay there is a complete power unit ( gear box) Pricey at 170.00 with free shipping

We restored a pink E2lp. And I was lucky to find (on ebay) a gearbox with plate as the one listed above.
At that time Phil had the index listed. And I bought the gasket for the gear box to center plate.
Large circular rubber gasket, And the rubber seal for the spline (tub seal) and small ring gasket that keeps the gryator from floating.

We made the other gaskets with material from auto parts store.

Removing the gulmite bolts is a PIA. we ended up cutting them off. And in removing the threaded part of the bolts, stripped the threaded holes in the top of the gear box. Yea a real bummer,
Gulmite wrenches.
Phil had one listed in june 2017 42.50 that did not sell. He may still have it.
I fear the seal from spline (tub) to gearbox has failed if you have water going up to the weep hole......
Phil has that seal listed on ebay now.

While searching for parts, another wringer was on craigs list. 50.00.
Call him and I explained how to start it and
and get the wringer to work. He was nice enough to see if it worked. It did and does.
Now I have 2. ( I am so fortunate)

With the knowledge you have now, a donor machine may be the ticket.
But still need the special wrench to get the
bolts off.
Daves repair is not in business, but here is link to his page that shows you what the wrench is and size of bolts required.
We got standard bolts with washers when we put pinkie back together.

I know there are wiser than I here on the forum. That may give you better advice.
Good luck.

can't beat a wringer for cleaning and getting laundry done fast.
Here's a pic of Her royal Highness. MISS PINKIE.
I figure her total cost was around 250.00 with parts and purchase.
Labor HA HA cant' put a price on that as
many many many hours spent on this project.
But I have a machine that will be running long after I'm gone.

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Post# 987778 , Reply# 31   3/23/2018 at 11:48 (212 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Your pump

tinkr's profile picture
Whitey lost a paddle off her pump. Found it in the bath tub. She still pumps fine.
If the others are not corroded through It is still usable, I would think. Get it as clean as possible and smooth paddles. I call them paddles don't know the proper name.

Post# 987827 , Reply# 32   3/23/2018 at 21:53 (211 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Tinkr, thank you very much for your helpful response!
I checked out this store and called their phone number for the warehouse, and their number for their store and pressed buttons for a customer service rep, but I dat on hold for a while and got no response. However, I did leave a message the second time i called and asked that they get back to me tomorrow. We will see if they do.

I heard back from Phil! And he listed the gasket set for me! Hopefully that is all of them that I need. I would think there would be a thick seal for the agitator shaft that I need that stops the agitator from wiggling. He also has a worm shaft seal, the two gaskets for the tub, and a service manual with parts catalog, all of which I will be ordering. He also had a tub to pump hose which I may get if I find out why I cant just make my own. I have asked him a few other questions about if he has any of the other parts I need available, and if he combines shipping (because it is adding up unnecessarily). However I have not heard back on those, so i think maybe I should just order the 5 parts now? Or 6 if I get the hose.

I saw that transmission for sale too, and thank you for showing me also! I believe it is too expensive, it is a bit rustyer than mine, and it has some leaks of its own. So it would also need a servicing. It is Best Offer but still would likely be over $120. Their description says "looks to be in good shape works good".

Is the rubber tub seal the one that would seal the agitator shaft? I think that is the only one I would be missing if I ordered everything right now. And also it is good to know that someone else has made gaskets for their machine with that material! I will do that for any the set doesn't cover.

When I aksed what parts he had, I asked about a pump, gulmite wrench and replacement bolts, and an index slide, but again have not heard back yet. I am trying to decide if I should just order what I can now or wait and see if he replies and order all at once.

And nice that you had a parts donor machine! That is always helpful!

And wow! That machine is beautiful! Looks pristine! I would hope for my machine to run well long after I am gone too, and I am only 22 hah!

And the pump, the other blades do seem a bit corroded, but maybe still intact enough? I would be much much happier just getting a new pump if I could, as its rubber wheel is also flat on part of it, and the pumps gasket is ruined now that it is apart, and also part of the hose connectors are rusted off.

I am very excited for the day when I can use this machine to actually wash my laundry! That will be so cool!

Post# 987841 , Reply# 33   3/24/2018 at 00:57 (211 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Also does anyone know what this long rubber plug is for?

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Post# 987896 , Reply# 34   3/24/2018 at 11:57 (211 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
round gasket seal on ebay

tinkr's profile picture
This seal goes around the plate that bolt to the tub. I hope you can make out the grove in my picture,
Yes you will need it if you can get the bolts out.
If your machine is agitating Your gear box is working you just have water leaking thru the seal.

It looks like you have enough metal left on the pump hose attachments to use it. Finding parts is hard so don"t throw out something that might still work.
Also J&b weld would thicken thin areas if you have any. And cures hard and can be filed or sanded
Oh maybe that could be used to fix up your pump hose attachments. I have a lot of experience with J&B

Looking at the pic you are seeing the spline straight down. If you can make it out there is a washer at the base held in by a metal clip under that is the tub seal

This plate came in the pink washer it was so corroded and thin I used J&B the thicken up the tube the spline fits thru. I didnt use it on the rebuild because the gear box I got had one on it.

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Post# 987897 , Reply# 35   3/24/2018 at 12:03 (211 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
OH the long plug. Yes I got that but.. sorry

tinkr's profile picture
Oh That I think is used to center up something. Its in the manual. I don't think we used it at all.

My allergy med makes me loopy. Hope I've made sense.

Oh for cleaning off grease I used ammonia outside with a fan blowing the gas from me. It works great.
And I used it straight.

Post# 987961 , Reply# 36   3/24/2018 at 18:16 (211 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Thank you tinkr, and you are making sense! Lol.
I ordered these 5 parts from phil today:
Thin groove tub gasket
Cork tub gasket
Service and parts manual
Worm shaft seal, as mine was leaking
And the gasket set that includes the trans and wringer gaskets

He did not message me back, but I saw their were other people watching the items I needed.

I still need a shaft seal for the agitator.

I will not throw any parts away, even after this project is finished, I just would rather find a new pump. I have never used JB weld before, but it sounds like a good idea. What is it? And could I use it to fix up the impeller and rebuild the 4th fin?

And weird, I dont know what that long thing is for but it is coming with the gasket.

I cant wait for the repair manual and parts catalog to come! That way I will know what parts are left that I need.

And what is the story with the tub to pump hose? I did not order that one because it would cost over $30 for a short hose. I need a new one and a new one of the drain hoses. Why cant I just make my own? Could I soak it in hot water to bend it easier?

Hopefully I will have all gaskets with this order, but I am pretty sure I will at least need an agitator seal.

Post# 987965 , Reply# 37   3/24/2018 at 18:44 (211 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
JB weld

tinkr's profile picture
2 part epoxy cold weld steel

Drain hose I found the right size at Lowes. It is clear.
The tub to pump. I didn't have to replace. There"s an off chance that an auto parts store may have a hose radiator hose that would be able to work. That's a long shot.

Gorrilla glue stops leaks on a water mattress pad I have. And I put it on a hole in the Tub to pump on my white wringer and I use whitey
all the time with no leaks.

Working on vintage items is a challenge. You have to be able to think outside the box.

Post# 987982 , Reply# 38   3/24/2018 at 21:16 (210 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Hmm JB Weld sounds like some good stuff for the pump. It would be great to fill in the missing paddle with it.

The drain hose I am not too worried about finding. I would think home depot or the like would have black rubber hoses in multiple sizes. My tub to pump hose is completely ruined. It has multiple splits and I had to wreck the pump end of it to get the pump off, and I havent even gotten the other end off the tub because it is in such an awkward place. But once I take the machine apart it will be easier to get off. The splits it had already made me not worry about wrecking it.
I feel like i could buy some new black rubber hose and heat it while putting it on for it to fit.

And yeah! That is for sure!

Post# 987993 , Reply# 39   3/25/2018 at 00:52 (210 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        
You can

stan's profile picture
make your own tub to pump hose, but there's no way it won't have a bit of a kink because of the turn it has to make.
I did make one and it worked, but after I got the real one I noticed that the tub drained faster. The real tub to pump hose is unusual..or unique to Maytag wringers.
I made my own drain hose and it works fine.
For me.. I'm glad I got the right tub to pump hose though.

Post# 988001 , Reply# 40   3/25/2018 at 03:26 (210 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Hmm ah I see! The kink! I feel like heating the hose as I am installing it could make it bend into shape easier. I would assume that is how Maytag did it. And if it does kink a little, a slow drain is better than a leaky drain.

I could buy this hose, but in the picture, it looks like the end is roughed up, and $35 for a used 18 or so inch hose, I dont think so!

Man, I am building quite the shopping list for home depot/auto parts store!

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Post# 988042 , Reply# 41   3/25/2018 at 11:31 (210 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Bolts in tub plate are your biggest problem.

tinkr's profile picture
You can dremel a slot in the bolts. Remember these are brass bolts and softer than steel heads.
We tried it and the bolts were so tight all the screwdriver did was distort the head. So we used the grinder
and made the round heads into a regular wrench shape. It is a pain to do. On the link I gave you to daves
It tells you what size bolts to get. Once you get them out.

Once you get past them everything else is much easier.

And if you get all this figured out and you want to paint it.
I would get automotive paint, or marine paint,
Rattle can do not cure hard enough. At least what we used didn't.

Post# 988047 , Reply# 42   3/25/2018 at 12:09 (210 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Hmm I did think of cutting the sides of the bolts as an option. It doesnt seem like that would be too hard especially with soft metal, but it is just scary hah. I would not want to make a mistake on that for sure! And ah, true! I will use that site to find new bolts!

For painting, I was originally thinking rustoleum appliance paint, but they dont seem to have any other colors than white, black, or metallics, and I am playing with the idea of painting it a crazy color! Like electric blue or something! I thought about gold but that would not look good to me with the red release bar and agitator; copper might though. Orr maybe a forest green! Or I might just keep it stock and paint it white. I have not decided yet. The underside will get painted white though.

Post# 988198 , Reply# 43   3/26/2018 at 01:44 (209 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        
You might

stan's profile picture
Try sending Larry a email and ask about the gulmite wrench. He might let you borrow it. Or post here and see if someone's got one laying around. It will make things much easier
I painted my Maytag with Rustolium oil based enamal (white can) I mixed in a little Penetrol
I wet sanded first, washed down, then applied with hight density foam roller. I waited three days for it to fully cure, then wet sanded again with 800 grit, washed down, and did a second coat. Waited another three days, and wet sanded with 1500 grit. Then used a polishing compound. (I used white)
Other have used appliance epoxy (with good results)
I know I did it the hard way, but it's held up very well. I hate rattle cans.
Also when your ready to make the tub look new.. You can fill the tub part way with warm soapy water, and use the 1500 grit on it, and the crown, then polish with mag wheel polish.
I know I'm a little too far ahead, cuz you have bigger fish to fry, but since it seems that your going to save her..thought I'd share! LOL

Post# 988207 , Reply# 44   3/26/2018 at 02:26 (209 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Hmm that is true. I could do that. I suppose no one really needs that wrench after taking off the bolts and replacing them with normal bolts.
And oh my! That sounds like quite the long tedious process! That is pride in your work though for sure! I thought appliance and automotive paints are always in a spray can? That seems like it would be a lot easier lol. And is penetrol the oil version of floetrol? If so then I see how you got the brush strokes to smooth out. And what is appliance epoxy? It that a spray or brush on paint? Also was the wet sanding enough to take off the original paint on the outside?

And I can't wait to make the tub and crown shine! I love shiny things! Thank you for the suggestion!

And yeah it is a bit early, but it is exciting to think about it being done and ready to clean up and paint! Thank you for sharing!

Honestly, I am more nervous about cleaning it all up and painting it than I am about being able to take it apart, fix it, and put it back together. I can and have fixed things, but have never fully restored something. I have never painted metal before, except once, but I was not trying to make that time look good haha! It also sounds very tedious. And also the machine as a whole and the outside shell have to stay in the building they are in without me painting anything in the room its in, for discretion.

Post# 988422 , Reply# 45   3/27/2018 at 02:24 (208 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
Penetrol is the oil version of Flothrol, I remember having to order it online because it isn't sold in CA.
Most appliance epoxy paints I've seen are in rattle cans.. unless there are brush types?
I painted mine outside with the oil based enamel during the warms months, due to the fumes. The epoxy spray has a pretty nasty fume too.
It took less than a quart of paint fir me to do mine.. There's not that much surface area. It takes some patience for drying times but..
Dont know if you've gone through Larry's thread, but he took everything apart, cleaned, repaired, replaced, repainted and re assembled. I remember there was some tricky spots he had to work out.
I need to go re read it.
As far as the gulmite wrench.. well you know what they say.. the right tool for the job!
Someones got one they ain't using! LOL

Post# 988424 , Reply# 46   3/27/2018 at 02:31 (208 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
Almost forgot.. No I did not sand old paint off. I started with wet sanding it with 300 grit to get it smoothed out, but etched enough for my first coat to adhere.
Here it is

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Post# 988484 , Reply# 47   3/27/2018 at 15:03 (208 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Oh wow Stan, your machine is beautiful too! Great work!

So you did use a brush type then?
And I am glad to hear I dont have to sand it off completely and it doesnt take that much paint.

I have read a lot of the thread but not all of it yet. I think when I paint my parts underneath, I will want to use clear paint so I can still see what they origonally looked like!

I'll put up a new thread for the wrench.

I am eagerly awaiting that parts manual so I can understand the agitator shaft better. I still don't understand how it seals water from leaking out through there. I am guessing there is a thick rubber seal?
I also found a 60s era instruction manual for the machine for only $6, so I thought what the heck! And I bought it.

Post# 988584 , Reply# 48   3/28/2018 at 13:24 (207 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

The pump pieces have been soaking in citric acid solution all night, and soon I will try scrubbing them. Bad news though; in trying to unscrew the rubber wheel so it would not soak, I broke off another fin of the impeller. I could try some JB weld on that maybe? But I dont know if that would even work. That piece is soaking too. I wish I could get a new pump.

Post# 988585 , Reply# 49   3/28/2018 at 13:25 (207 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Also, how does that metal end with the screw on it fit onto the hose? And how does it come off? Will i have to cut some of the outside of the new hose so that it is thinner?

Post# 988597 , Reply# 50   3/28/2018 at 14:44 (207 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

And also, what is the length of the tub bolts?

Post# 988599 , Reply# 51   3/28/2018 at 15:14 (207 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
I just had an idea. Rather out of the box.

tinkr's profile picture
Now this sounds crazy but... Are you familiar with impellers in boat motors? (we are waiting for a new one for our evinrude) I wonder if they make a large ones. That could be some how fitted.
They do the exact same thing. This is what they look like.

What screw are you speaking of?

If mine goes out I can gravity drain into the bathtub. But I think I'd try a marine impeller if that happened,
Pinky is a gravity drain.
flip the pump on and WOW what a racket. There's always one more thing to fix.

Post# 988602 , Reply# 52   3/28/2018 at 15:34 (207 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Huh! That could potentially work, if it was the right hieght, and if I could figure out a way to get the screw to attach to the center of this impeller. The screw is the metal shaft of the rubber wheel and impeller. It is built into the rubber wheel and it screws into the impeller which holds both in place.

Post# 988625 , Reply# 53   3/28/2018 at 18:48 (207 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Alright you guys, it is time to start gettin down to buisness! I got a few things in the mail and we nt shopping today! Here is what I got:
Power unit and wringer head gasket set
Cork tub gasket
Tub groove gasket with plug
Worm shaft seal
Maytag service manual and parts catalog with Phil's parts catalog
Instruction manual for the machine

Advance auto:
Valvoline 80w-90 gear oil 16oz
Valvoline multi purpose grease 1lb
CRC brakleen spray can

Home depot:
Can of Rustoleum clear coat rust inhibitor
Barkeepers friend
Scotch bright scrub sponges
#000 steel wool
#3 steel wool
Pair of gloves
800 and 1500 sandpaper
JB weld
Brasso metal polish
3 hose clamps
A perfect 7/8 in id x 1 1/4 in od x 10 ft washing machine hose
2 brass elbows to make a hook over the sink

I know I still need:
•6 replacement bolts along with washers and gaskets for them - I looked and I did not know the proper length for them, and they only had zinc ones, and I want stainless steel to avoid rust
•paint to cover the machine - I havent picked my color yet
•a new agitator seal - really badly
•most likely still a new pump- I will try saving the old one
• likely more grease
•maybe some zoom spout for the motor if it has a way I can oil it
•a new index slide if mine cannot be fixed

How does my list look? Is there anything else you guys think I need?

Post# 988631 , Reply# 54   3/28/2018 at 19:34 (207 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
seal for shaft

tinkr's profile picture
I still have the bag my shaft seal came in. Some of the parts numbers have faded but I'm sure it is the part in the link on my bag I can read 6-0A57 then its faded out.

the seal looks Identical to it.

Call them and see

I got my bolts from Ace hardware or a true value store.

good luck..


Post# 988632 , Reply# 55   3/28/2018 at 19:43 (207 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

You are talking about this manufacturers part number yes? And not Maytag's - their's is A4298. And this is the same seal that is in my washer? That is crazy to me that it is still made, and fits with other automatic washers!
Thank you so much!

Post# 988633 , Reply# 56   3/28/2018 at 19:53 (207 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Oh wow! They even say that it replaces part # 0A4298! I will be getting it! Thank you!

Post# 988634 , Reply# 57   3/28/2018 at 19:57 (207 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Fitting automatics

tinkr's profile picture
I dont know about that, but the bag says genuine whirlpool parts. I got this from Phil a few years ago.
Worth a shot I dont remember if the washer and clip came with it. I think it did but cant be sure.

Post# 988635 , Reply# 58   3/28/2018 at 20:08 (207 days old) by Stricklybojack (San Diego, CA)        

stricklybojack's profile picture
Maytag Wringer Washer Parts - $10000 (2202 S. 6th Ave.)

condition: new
make / manufacturer: Maytag/Frigidaire/Whirlpool

Approximately $20,000.00 in wringer washer parts, & other washer, dryer, & refrigeration parts. Complete wringer heads, bodies, agitators, center plates, gears, gaskets, grease, decals, tools, motors, belts, etc. Some are still in the original packaging. There are also Speed Queen wringer parts.

contact name:
call or text
☎ (520) 624-4489

CLICK HERE TO GO TO Stricklybojack's LINK on Tucson Craigslist

This post was last edited 03/29/2018 at 01:39
Post# 988636 , Reply# 59   3/28/2018 at 20:12 (207 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

OMG! I will be contacting him!

Post# 988638 , Reply# 60   3/28/2018 at 20:24 (207 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Glad to help

tinkr's profile picture
That's what we are here for. You still have to find and index slide. Correct?

Ok found this on ebay it was not sold according to the original listing. So ask Phil if he still has it .

You can contact him thru any of his auctions.

I got one from him. Pinkies swung around so hard it almost knocked me down.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO tinkr's LINK on eBay

Post# 988643 , Reply# 61   3/28/2018 at 21:23 (206 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
index slide

tinkr's profile picture
found this also I think its in canada


Post# 988647 , Reply# 62   3/28/2018 at 22:43 (206 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Thank you for your help tinkr, it is much appriciated! And thank you Stricklybojack fro showing me this listing! I have contacted mark, and he seems to have an entire warehouse full of parts! He has all the things I need so far except for the gulmite wrench. He only has one and needs it for repairs. He has index slides, and pumps and pump wheels and agitator seals. Now what I need to do is build up an entire parts list of everything I need, and that I may need help with. I have the repair manual and parts catalogs and thw amount of small parts in this machine is daunting especially compared to how simple it "looks" lol!
I need to go through and I wish I knew every piece that is messed up without having to take it apart first. That way I can tell him every part I need and order it all at once.
This guy communicates well and is a good temporary resource. Phil has only answered one out of about 4 ebay messages, and he did not answer my email or phone call. The agitator seal was a very good find tinkr, so thank you! You guys are great, and are helping me a butt load!

Post# 988648 , Reply# 63   3/28/2018 at 22:45 (206 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

And LOL! My wringer swings around after being on for a few seconds... So it lulls you into a sense of security and then goes straight for your fingers, and tries to eat them up!

Post# 988703 , Reply# 64   3/29/2018 at 10:43 (206 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Seller in Tuscon

tinkr's profile picture
He was posting in the phoenix craigslist. I thought he had sold out. Wow great news for you.

well what more might you need?
Trouble shooting.
Top to bottom.
Wringer. Safety bar works? lever locks it in place?
Wringer rollers are not cracked or flattened? And roll smoothly?
Wringer stays in place-no
Wringer goes forward and reverse?
Agitator comes off spline?
Agitator does not float up? If it floats it needs a small rubber seal goes on spline. I would get one if you can just incase.
Tub has holes?
Agitator moves when gear case is engaged? Gear box is working. yea Gears do not bind up. Guess not.. It ran for an hour.
Leaks water from weep hole? yes spline seal.
Leaks under machine? Yes Hoses needed.

Motor works? yes. Does it need brushes?
Cord is good?
Are your wheels good? no flat spots? Roll well?

There may be more but thats the basics, that I can think of. These are the general wear and tear parts.
That I can think of

Gulimite wench?
Are there any appliance junk yards around you? These are Mom and Pop shops
that have been in the business for years. For repair and second hand appliances also new for sale.
It's a long shot.
I would think the machine would have to go to them and they take out the bolts. For a price
remove the wringer to transport it. Put it in neutral and lift up. That dudes heavy.

Post# 988709 , Reply# 65   3/29/2018 at 12:13 (206 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
I forgot

tinkr's profile picture
The pump!

Post# 988784 , Reply# 66   3/29/2018 at 22:33 (205 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Wringer safety bar is not working correctly...unless I am misssing something. When I hit it, it only separates the rollers just enough to let a sliver of light through, ans pulling them apart does not separate them. So not only does the wringer swing around and try to eat fingers, but it also will not release them with the safety bar lol!
The lever does lock and unlock the wringer though.
I am pretty sure the rollers are good. Have not inspected closely for cracks but I will. There are no flat spots though.
Wringer swings
Wringer does go in forward and reverse, but sometimes you have to wait a minute at first and move the lever a bit.
Agitator comes off shaft, and does not float. The agitator also has holes in it so it may never float, unless bakelite floats. Good idea to get a new seal in case, I may.
Tub is completely solid with no holes. Thankful to not have had to deal with what Larry did.
Agitator runs smoothly, though it does move a little while disengaged which could maybe be from old clumpy oil or the collar?
Spline seal is trashed
I got new hose at home depot that has the exact same inner and outer diameter, so that is good
Motor works well but maybe could use a little lubrication
Cord is trashed
The wheels! I did not think of that! They looked pretty messed up to me, cracked up rubber, but ill look again.
Will be getting a new pump and rubber wheel

I looked and looked for junk yards when I was searching for a machine, but all I could find were auto graveyards and metal scrapping places. Also the machine is too much trouble to remove and put back in the building it is in. I think I will just destroy those bolts.

And I was wondering about parts in the PU and on the agitator shaft that may need replacing, like the bearings and the collar on the shaft?

Post# 988785 , Reply# 67   3/29/2018 at 22:57 (205 days old) by wayupnorth (On a lake between Bangor and Bar Harbor)        

wayupnorth's profile picture
I have a round Maytag of the same vintage but gear case is locked up. In otherwise decent shape and everything worked before trying to move it in my shed. If you, or anyone wants it here to fix or for parts its yours. Come and get it because when I do finally move from here, it goes to the scrapper as I have no interest in fixing it.

Post# 988786 , Reply# 68   3/29/2018 at 23:34 (205 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Wayupnorth, I wish I could lol. But I have no room and you are far away lol. Maybe someone else though. A free machine is a good deal!

Post# 988789 , Reply# 69   3/30/2018 at 00:42 (205 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

I also plan ob getting a second agitator from him that is the turquoise one, just for fun to use whichever one I am in the mood for!

Post# 988791 , Reply# 70   3/30/2018 at 01:26 (205 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        
Not being able to

stan's profile picture
seperate the rollers?
Are you holding the tension bar down and turning the tension lever counterclockwise? (while still holding the bar down) Then back, and lift up. Once the rollers are about two inches apart, then turn tension back the normal position. This should cause the rollers to rest apart.
You should feel some resistance turning.
If the wringer locks into position, then it sounds like the index slide is O.K
What us jumping at ur fingers? The rollers, or is the wringer not locking into position.
Wish I could see it in action! Make a vidieo! LOL

Post# 988792 , Reply# 71   3/30/2018 at 01:34 (205 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        
You might

stan's profile picture
also search for Geoff Delp a member here.. Haven't seen him post in a while, but is one of the Maytag Wringer experts. He should have a lot of good advice since your restoring.

Post# 988813 , Reply# 72   3/30/2018 at 08:49 (205 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

I can separate the rollers and lock them in place like normal, but hitting the safety release bar alone does not release tension very much at all. And the wringer assembly is what jumps and swings around. And I thought about contacting him. I may give that a try!

Post# 988814 , Reply# 73   3/30/2018 at 08:53 (205 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Alsp, Phil has listed a Gulmite wrench for $42.50 + $7.50 shipping.
Thoughts? Is it worth?
It seems like a lot for a wrench I would only use once, but then again it would make taking out the bolts much easier.
He also has listed an index slide and agitator seal kit. His index slide is more expensive than Mark's so I will go with mark on that and same with the agitator seal, though I dont know if mark's is the whole set or just the seal.

Post# 988822 , Reply# 74   3/30/2018 at 11:07 (205 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
safety bar

tinkr's profile picture
Hitting the bar just separates it a little. Then pull up one the top section of the wringer. Should come up more,

Post# 988831 , Reply# 75   3/30/2018 at 12:22 (205 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Oh! I was under the impression that it was supposed to jump up when the bar was hit! I will try it again!

Post# 988836 , Reply# 76   3/30/2018 at 13:29 (205 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

I tried it and it does separate a little, but the tension is not released until I turn the top handle counterclockwise.
Upon inspection, I could use new rollers as mine are shriveled and missing some spots.
Is the bottom roller supposed to be very difficult to turn by hand? Because it is.
The wheels are actually all in good shape, just rusty and dirty.

Post# 988837 , Reply# 77   3/30/2018 at 13:31 (205 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Also, how do i upload a video on here?

Post# 988853 , Reply# 78   3/30/2018 at 16:52 (205 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        

tinkr's profile picture
most post a video on utube then link it in the URL link to share.

I think the bottom roller is gear driven, Top rolls freely.

Yes the center lever locks the wringer head back together. So I hit the safety bar and then I wiggle and
pull up, the top half or the wringer to separate it a little more. To lock back together turn the top handle till you feel a bump or hear a snap (hard to explain) it has locked in place.

Post# 988864 , Reply# 79   3/30/2018 at 17:42 (205 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Ah true.
And It does not separate with any amount of wiggling. It just moves apart barely. Certanly not enough to free a trapped hand. The handle works normally though.

Post# 988956 , Reply# 80   3/31/2018 at 13:30 (204 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Look what I just found! Isnt the gulmite bolt and wrench 33 points?
Now I just have to figure out if it is the same size!
There are many others for sale like it, probably even cheaper! If this works, that would be a breakthrough!

  View Full Size
Post# 989005 , Reply# 81   3/31/2018 at 19:21 (204 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Yes indeed

tinkr's profile picture
A breakthrough. I looked thru my service manual and no mention of size on bolts..

Post# 989011 , Reply# 82   3/31/2018 at 19:54 (204 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Do you know if it is actually 33 points? I read somewhere that it was but im not sure.

Post# 989026 , Reply# 83   3/31/2018 at 22:05 (203 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
I had one that wasn't destroyed

tinkr's profile picture
I counted 3 times and came up at 36. Not an easy task.. I used jewelers glasses. They are tiny points So it is possible I blinked and so I could be less but not more.

Post# 989030 , Reply# 84   3/31/2018 at 22:21 (203 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Daves website says

tinkr's profile picture
This tool’s used to remove and reinstall the 6 special Gulmite (33-point) bolts
So there ya go. It may work. If it does wow.
If the bolts are encrusted
Which mine were CLR to the rescue.with a wire brush to gently remove the calcium gunk build up between the points. Or slots whatever they are called.


How did you get to foreign car tools?

Post# 989042 , Reply# 85   4/1/2018 at 00:53 (203 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Ok! I found where I read they were 33 point heads! It was on Dave's repair! Now I just need to know the diameter of these bolt heads, and of the socket. I have asked multiple sellers and am waiting on replies. I will try measuring the bolts, but I dont know how accurate Ill get it. I also dont know whether to measure from one tooth to another, one non tooth to another non tooth, or one tooth to a non tooth to get the correct measurement.
I found online that there are different sized ones that other things besides these maytags used. There was a #6 - #14 at the least.

I also had a long phone call with Mark today and asked many questions and have a parts list going that he is finding all the parts for. He is very nice to work with and has tens of thousands of dollars worth of parts! I will have to take the machine apart first though to know all the parts I'll need.

Post# 989043 , Reply# 86   4/1/2018 at 00:58 (203 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

I think my bolts are not in too bad a shape, except for possibly the one I tried to grab with pliers, but I think it will still be alright hah!
And thank you! All I did was search 33 point socket online, thinking that a socket would be a cheaper option than a whole wrench, and that there may be other things that use a 33 point wrench but that don't call it a gulmite, and it showed up on google for Amazon! I am very happy and excited, but not fully until I know the sizes.

Post# 989045 , Reply# 87   4/1/2018 at 01:14 (203 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Also thank you tinkr, for taking the time to count the teeth on those bolts and to look that up for me! I thought about counting them but was researching as much as I could to avoid that! Haha

Post# 989148 , Reply# 88   4/2/2018 at 01:03 (202 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Ok I measured and determined the heads are 1/2 inch, and the teeth are too small to matter in the measurement.

Post# 989201 , Reply# 89   4/2/2018 at 13:32 (202 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        

tinkr's profile picture
I suppose it is worth a shot. Or take a wrench and cut two sides of the bolt heads to accept the wrench.
And get the bolts Dave says to use. Thats what we wound up doing.

Also to remove the wringer the shifting lever needs to be in neutral, wringer will just swing around freely.
then it will come out.

Only take apart what you know you can replace on the wringer, in my service guide even the repair persons are instructed to replace the entire head. Rather than an entire rebuild.

Since you orderd the service manual you will be better informed when you read it.

Post# 989204 , Reply# 90   4/2/2018 at 14:10 (202 days old) by Eronie (Flushing Michigan)        

Amazon has it . Search 33 point socket Its A Car Tool.

Post# 989209 , Reply# 91   4/2/2018 at 14:50 (202 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Thanks for the advice! I just need to know the diameter this socket accepts. It is advertised as a half inch drive, but they say nothing about the diameter. I feel like it is too big, but I am hoping it fits.
I was only planning on replacing the drip plate and maybe the thing that holds the bottom wringer as it is rusty, but not sure about that. I also may grease up the parts that are involved with the safety release as it doesnt work right I do not plan on ever taking apart the part with the shifter handle. That part seems more difficult than the Power Unit.

Post# 989210 , Reply# 92   4/2/2018 at 14:51 (202 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

That is the tool I am talking about Eronie. Have you used it for gulmite bolts??? Does it work?

Post# 989252 , Reply# 93   4/3/2018 at 00:33 (201 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
Can't tell if u need a index slide or not. Dose the wringer try to swing around when you go to put a wet garmet through it?
If it dose, then you need a index slide. Since its a commonly broken part...It will be good for you to have a spare.
Hope you do a vidieo.. It would be good for us to see what's up

Post# 989253 , Reply# 94   4/3/2018 at 00:47 (201 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Yes it does do that. It does it sometimes without anything in it. One of the index slide's teeth is also broken off. I am ordering a new one of those. I have a list of parts coming now.
I do have a video of it. I just have to get around to posting it.

Post# 989255 , Reply# 95   4/3/2018 at 01:06 (201 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Okay here is the video of the machine being demonstrated. It shows the wringer doing its naughty buisness.


Post# 989309 , Reply# 96   4/3/2018 at 13:07 (201 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        
Oh ya

stan's profile picture
Thats a index slide for sure.
Can u show us the part where the roller won't separate ect and hiw ur doing it?

Post# 989345 , Reply# 97   4/3/2018 at 19:13 (201 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Oh yes! I will have to take a new video, but sure!

Post# 989346 , Reply# 98   4/3/2018 at 19:17 (201 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Here are pics of the pump housing after it soaking in citric acid for days, and being scrubbed. I will be getting an entire new one as this is ruined. It has raises bumps in it, and the second pic shows what I think is where water leaked through slowly. The holes and missing paint on the outside are in the same spot as the bumps on the inside.

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Post# 989347 , Reply# 99   4/3/2018 at 19:19 (201 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Better pic of the inside.

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Post# 989388 , Reply# 100   4/4/2018 at 02:35 (200 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

I heard back from a seller of the 33 point socket, and they said it is .78 inches on the inner diameter. The gulmite bolts heads are 1/2 inch. So I think they are a no go, unless there is a half inch sized one somewhere. .

Post# 989508 , Reply# 101   4/5/2018 at 00:57 (199 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        
Have u tried

stan's profile picture
Emailing Larry..I think he had one to remove his bolts, but switched them out.
Unless he's planning on retstoring another, he may not need the gulmite again.
Geoff might know where to get one to borrow ??

Post# 989512 , Reply# 102   4/5/2018 at 01:21 (199 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Oh true! I have not! I just bought the wrench from phil. I was a little afraid to risk it getting away as it had a second watcher. I would also much rather have the correct tool rather than have to destroy the bolts and risk them getting stuck in there forever. Then I'd have to get a new center plate most likely. It may be too late to email them for that since it will likely be too late to cancel the order by the time they respond, but I will email them anyway! There input would probably be helpful too!
After I get the wrench then I can finally start taking the machine apart to see what is really going on. And I have some parts on the way too!

Post# 989659 , Reply# 103   4/6/2018 at 13:53 (198 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Larry just sent me his wrench, so soon I will be able to take the machine apart! (Thank you Larry!)

He brought up a point that my bearings may need to be replaced, otherwise I may still get water in the PU. Instead of replacing the bearings, you pretty much have to get a new center plate, which Mark has many of. What are your thoughts guys?

Post# 989663 , Reply# 104   4/6/2018 at 14:24 (198 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        

tinkr's profile picture
Ok The plate off of pinky was super corroded. But I was surprised to see how smoothly moving the bearing was,and no metal shaving from wear. I did not have water in the pu. But you have had water in your bearing.

When you get it apart you can make that judgement. How smooth does it move are there rusted out roller balls in the bearing. Is it loose on the shaft. Any signs of getting hot.
And some how you have to grease that bearing.
The service manual says if the bearing is bad.. Replace the plate. You have to evaluate its condition.
I dont know what Mark gets for a plate.
So it's going to be what you see. Testing it after you replace the seal... see If it leaks. If it leaks thru, You may destroy the seal getting it out . And then mo money for another seal.

Wow another conundrum.

Post# 989682 , Reply# 105   4/6/2018 at 19:32 (198 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Hmm, Larry told me that there is no way to actually see the bearings when you take it out. And that would also mean no way to grease it without figuring out how to separate the bearings from the center plate. The shaft does have some side to side play and barely any up and down play. It turns perfectly smoothly. I noticed the power unit got warm when I ran it for that long time, but I dont think the shaft did.
I do not want to have to redo all that work because the bearing was bad lol!

Post# 989683 , Reply# 106   4/6/2018 at 19:36 (198 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
The adventure begins!

Post# 989689 , Reply# 107   4/6/2018 at 19:55 (198 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Hah yes! I should have the wrench in my hands roughly around next thursday!

Post# 990122 , Reply# 108   4/9/2018 at 23:49 (194 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        
New Parts Sources

My wrench should be arriving soon, and Mark is going to be sending my first box of parts tomorrow. So that is all exciting!

I have an update of interest for anyone looking for parts:
First, Mark is an excellent, helpful source for parts. He is very knowlageable and is willing to spend time on the phone and answer any questions that I have. He also is selling his parts to get rid of them as he has a lot, so he is selling for relatively cheap!

Second, I had called Lehman's and left a message asking about if they had Maytag wringer washer parts, and I thought they never called me, but I got a voicemail that I never knew about until I listened to all the ones I had. It was a representative named Dan who told me they no longer sell the parts, but, a buisness called Bunker Hill Appliance does! I dont think I will have a need for them because I have got a good thing going with Mark, but he is selling off all of his inventory bit by bit and not restocking anything, so once his parts are gone, they are gone.
In a time when the two main parts dealers people know of on this site are either done or retiring, I think these new sources could be helpful to people who need parts.

Bunker Hill appliance: 330-893-3700
Mark Beach: 520-624-4489

I will be taking some pics in the coming days for the "before" pictures!

Post# 990137 , Reply# 109   4/10/2018 at 02:10 (194 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
Thank you for finding that info for us.
I'll be looking forward to pics, and ur progress/adventure with this machine.

Post# 990138 , Reply# 110   4/10/2018 at 02:25 (194 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

No prob! I feel a little bit compelled to help the wringer washer community stay alive, so that maybe people 50 years from now could still use these machines and even repair them if they have to, including me, as I would like to use this machine as my washer for my entire life.

Post# 990139 , Reply# 111   4/10/2018 at 02:27 (194 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

The wringer washer world is sort of like the vinyl record and analog photography world in that it is vintage and unique and interesting. It just is not a very big movement lol.

Post# 990140 , Reply# 112   4/10/2018 at 02:31 (194 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

And I do have a couple pictures so far! Of the current oil leaks my machine has!

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Post# 990259 , Reply# 113   4/11/2018 at 01:35 (193 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        
Can't tell what the last pic is

stan's profile picture
That doesn't good!
In a way it almost look like someone poured oil down the hole that the wringer post fits into and it ran out the leg. But I can also see where it's seeping out the breather hole, then onto the cross bar.
If u wipe that all clean.. How long dose it take for that much to leak out again?

Post# 990277 , Reply# 114   4/11/2018 at 07:23 (193 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

The last pic is a pic of the wringer head, the lower roller drive. It is leaking grease.

Mark told me it could be oil from the wringer post too. But I am pretty sure it is mostly oil that has escaped with water from the power unit out the breather hole, then dripped onto that cross bar and either ran down it to that back leg, or overflowed off the bar onto the floor.
I wiped it decently clean before I ran it that time with water in it for an hour, so all this oil has happened over the past week or so since I did that. It gets to be a little more each time I go to look at it.

Post# 990310 , Reply# 115   4/11/2018 at 12:28 (193 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Wowzer And comment made by Geoffdelp to Larry

tinkr's profile picture
Geoff said..."Hi everyone ... well ... there you have it. I believe it's a combination of things. My guess is that when Larry got this machine, it hadn't been used for quite some time. I remember seeing the agitator with that big old hole on the top; surely, water got down there and was over the shaft/center. If those seals in the center shaft weren't good, water went into the transmission and into the right angle drive; hence the oil/water mixture coming out of the breather hole on the drive. Just like it was supposed to do.

Also, oil dripping down the legs means that where the right angle drive connects to the wringer post, the gasket is shot AND probably transmission oil/water traveled through the right angle drive and into the bottom of the wringer post." End quote.

That's a lot of runny grease. Neither one of mine were that bad.

Man, you are going to have to get the wringer head off the machine and separated.

As I said ammonia is cheap ( I get mine at the 99 cent only store)and cuts grease
but it is a gas that is very caustic and if you have lung issues (as I do) out side or by an open window with a fan.
A lot of rags. I started out with news paper. Rags next then paper towels.
Invest in gloves of some kind. That grease is a bugger to get off nails and hands,clothes floors. (yes I had a mess)
It's a great thing to be a diyer but we don't have to look like it. Most of the world doesn't get it.

Remember you asked what that long thing was that comes with the large rubber plate seal?
It is used to seal up the hole where the little screw is on the center plate.
Geoff says "
Phil does sell the rubber used to plug that screw hole; I learned it the hard way in reusing a screw without the lead washer; bad mistake. I caught mine, however, with oil shooting out everywhere; before I put the tub back on. Live and learn. Don't forget to tap the center plate securely in that area after placing the plug in; that center plate needs to sit flush to the power unit. That's where that little screw is very important; it also pulled the center plate down to the power unit making a good seal and without it, you will have to make sure that plate is all the way down to the power unit. "end quote.

I hope you have larrys thread saved. I think all your questions can be answered there.

Post# 990329 , Reply# 116   4/11/2018 at 16:03 (193 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Man there is grease coming from a lot of places lol. I got some break cleaner to spray on anything greasy to clean it up. And oh yeah I bought gloves for sure! My hands had that grease on them for days after just carrying that machine! It also ruined my good pants, though maybe when the machine is fixed, I could use it to really bash those pants clean.
And yeah the wringer head is coming apart, but it is just cleaning and some seals. I will not be taking those inner gears apart as long as I dont have to. The wringer head will come after I fix the rest of the washer though.
I will try the ammonia if I need to. Thanks for the suggestion. I have never really cleaned up grease before.
And thank you for telling me about that plug! The odd thing is it comes with the thing rubber gasket, and apparently I will only be using the cork gasket. According to Larry, I actually dont need both.

I am glad my agitator came off normally at least. I would not have bought the machine if it didn't, after reading that thread. I may not have if I knew it was gonna leak through the power unit also. I even tested it with water before buying it! But now at least I will have a machine that runs solidly for years and years with no questions. And I can tackle this teardown and rebuild while there are still people to talk to and a lot of parts available.
Thank you!

Post# 990374 , Reply# 117   4/11/2018 at 23:49 (192 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

A small update: The wrench should be arriving tomorrow, and the parts are on their way as of tuesday!
I should be able to start the teardown tomorrow night! Or if not, then in the next couple days!

Post# 990434 , Reply# 118   4/12/2018 at 13:30 (192 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Thanks to Larry, I got the wrench!

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Post# 990436 , Reply# 119   4/12/2018 at 14:00 (192 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

The tub is out!
I will post the "before" pics later.

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Post# 990497 , Reply# 120   4/13/2018 at 02:18 (191 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Now the motor is out and has been taken apart and put back together! I replaced the cord, gave it a ground wire, measured to make sure the ground works, cleaned out the dust bunnies, grease the unused end of the shaft, brake cleaned the outside of the motor, and inside of the end caps of the shell as it was a bit greasy, and same with the motor mount pieces.
I plugged it in and tested it, and it works great! Thank goodness! I was pretty worried tbh. Haha! Now on to the Power Unit!

Post# 990498 , Reply# 121   4/13/2018 at 02:52 (191 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

I believe the oil on the wringer post leg is from that crossbar that connects to it that catches all of the breather hole's drippings. That crossbar is filled with oil! Though I am sure my other gaskets arent in great shape.

Post# 990555 , Reply# 122   4/13/2018 at 10:22 (191 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Whoo Hoo

tinkr's profile picture
I'm so glad the bolts came out.
Now the lovely job of cleaning everything, and paint.

You have quite a weekend ahead of you.

I have another suggestion.
Adjust the height of the machine before you get it reassembled.
I'm sure your going to clean the wheels,
Tipping the machine backwards cause whitey to start dripping. just a few drops. But I panicked
anyway. Nothing has come of it and she stopped dripping.
But I will not tip one over again.

Have fun and keep us posted.

Post# 990572 , Reply# 123   4/13/2018 at 12:45 (191 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Me too! And oh yeah! Though I will have other things mixed in so I am not sure how much I will get done this weekend, but at least cleaning the power unit out.
And oh, how come? Why adjust the height? And yeah I will be cleaning the wheels.
The machine can be tipped over frontwards without it spilling oil. Also I am taking all the oil out anyway so if I have to tip it backwards, I could.
Thank you!

Post# 990609 , Reply# 124   4/13/2018 at 17:36 (191 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Why adjust the height

tinkr's profile picture
You want the wringer to be at a safe comfortable height to use it. Pinkies to tall for me (all 4ft 10in.of me)
Whitey we lowered, wringer is about chest height. Just right.
I feel like I'm lifting fabric over my head when I use pinky, she's about 3-4 inches taller.
So I use whitey.
The top of tub is just about hip height.
Blankets are heavy to wrangle out of the tub. So are wet sheets.

Also there are horror stories of females getting their upper girly parts caught in the wringer.
I have hair down to my rear end so I have to watch out for that too.

Using a wringer can be a real work out. I usually do 6 loads when she gets rolled out.

I split laundry between a portable 1.6 for daily wear and the wringer for towles, blankets
sheets. Items I want washed in hot hot water. And I rinse in a large tote, with vinager and cool water wring back onto the top of the washer lid.
I also have a laundry spin drier. . To remove the extra water from the wrung items. As they are to wet to put in the dryer.
Using this method I can easily do all 6 loads in 1.5 hrs.

When you are doing laundry with a wringer that is all you do is laundry. Wash. wring, rinse, wring.
Average wash time per load is approx. 5 min. For normaly soiled clothes. Then rinse and wring

You will also want to get a floating lint catcher sold on amazon or ebay. But that's down the road.

Have fun.

Post# 990619 , Reply# 125   4/13/2018 at 19:11 (191 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Oh I think I should be alright with the height then, since I am 6'1", and no girls will be using my washer, and it will take years for me to grow my hair that long haha! I would have to experience using it though to tell for sure what height I like.
The portable washer idea is cool! Those are interesting. For me, there is already a regular washer inside that I can use if I dont feel like going out and using this one, but after all this work, it is going to be my daily driver. I want a spin drier to do the same thing! But I want an old one, not one of those expensive new ones made in china.
Also, I plan on rinsing in the washtub the same as washing. And I plan to add a little bit of citric acid powder to that, to neutralize the very alkaline powder soap I will be using in the water that goes outside, as it is near a ditch that goes to a waterway. Vinegar could probably work just as well.
And do I need to catch lint? I have never used an automatic washer with one. An interedting idea though.

Post# 990620 , Reply# 126   4/13/2018 at 19:12 (191 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Oh I think I should be alright with the height then, since I am 6'1", and no girls will be using my washer, and it will take years for me to grow my hair that long haha! I would have to experience using it though to tell for sure what height I like.
The portable washer idea is cool! Those are interesting. For me, there is already a regular washer inside that I can use if I dont feel like going out and using this one, but after all this work, it is going to be my daily driver. I want a spin drier to do the same thing! But I want an old one, not one of those expensive new ones made in china.
Also, I plan on rinsing in the washtub the same as washing. And I plan to add a little bit of citric acid powder to that, to neutralize the very alkaline powder soap I will be using in the water that goes outside, as it is near a ditch that goes to a waterway. Vinegar could probably work just as well.
And do I need to catch lint? I have never used an automatic washer with one. An interedting idea though.

Post# 990622 , Reply# 127   4/13/2018 at 19:27 (191 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Sorry did not mean to post twice. The site on my phone is being really wonky right now.

Post# 990623 , Reply# 128   4/13/2018 at 19:49 (191 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Lint filter and spin dryer

tinkr's profile picture
On e-bay shipped from US.

China is cheaper

And I got a mega spinner from Laundry alternitive.
The designer is a member here. It is made in Brazil.
I works really great. Super simple no timer close the 2 lids and it starts open lids and it stops.
It says up to 20 lbs wet. I don't push it so I put in maybe 10 to 12 lbs.
You can hang clothes and they are dry inside in about 2 hrs.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO tinkr's LINK on eBay

Post# 990631 , Reply# 129   4/13/2018 at 21:00 (190 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Hmm interesting. I dont know if I am worried about lint or not. I do feel like maybe an auto removes more lint because of all the holes and the spinning with water.

And I have read some not so great reviews of the Laundry Alternative's spinners. How is the quality on them? Is the basket plastic or metal? And do you like it a lot? I am hoping to find a vintage one because I love vintage stuff, and it would be more solid and cheaper. Can you fit a big blanket in yours? I can never tell how much they would really fit by the pictures.

Post# 990641 , Reply# 130   4/13/2018 at 21:54 (190 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        

tinkr's profile picture
The mega is a durable plastic outside. And inside. So no rusting. And yes the older laundry alt. spinners were POS.
But this one seems quite durable. And I've used it since Christmas with no problems.
20lbs wet is what is listed as the max weight. I know of one other member here that has one and reports were all good. And if you have an issue you call the number and get to talk to the engineer not a coustomer service nit wit.
I have not found a vintage one and looked for a very long time. There are vintage Twin tub machines.
However they are to large for my area. And parts well really hard to find.
There was one ( spinner) listed on shoppers spree. I think this week. Not vintage. and as I recall metal.

Post# 990649 , Reply# 131   4/13/2018 at 22:14 (190 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
shoppers square

tinkr's profile picture
not spree. LOL

Post# 990652 , Reply# 132   4/13/2018 at 22:36 (190 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Hmm thank you! I will look more inte the L.A. ones. Did they imptove on them? And that is cool you can talk to the actual engineer! I do still hope to find an old one. And yeah I don't want a twin tub lol. Too much stuff I wont use.

Post# 990665 , Reply# 133   4/14/2018 at 01:19 (190 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        
How in TF

How the heck do you get the power unit out? I got the shifter rod disconnected, all 3 bolts out of the horizontal drive, and that bottom bolt mostly out. The bottom bolt just keeps turning and has the braces pushed away from the PU. The horizontal drive also will not separate from the PU, even with a chisel.
I will keep trying.

Post# 990666 , Reply# 134   4/14/2018 at 01:35 (190 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Ok I got it off the bottom bolt, so that just leaves it being stuck to the RAD.

Post# 990667 , Reply# 135   4/14/2018 at 01:55 (190 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

I got it! And water poured out of just the connection between the PU and the RAD!

Post# 990668 , Reply# 136   4/14/2018 at 01:59 (190 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

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Post# 990676 , Reply# 137   4/14/2018 at 03:15 (190 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

The 2 gulmite bolts on the center plate to the PU are very stuck. I'll try som WD-40 tomorrow.

Post# 990751 , Reply# 138   4/14/2018 at 20:52 (189 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

I cannot get them out. Tried hammering, PB blaster, more hammering, i cant grab them with vice grips, I dont think I can reach them to cut a slot in them, I dont have a torch to heat them up, and the teeth are stripped. I want a screw extractor set. Maybe that will work.

Post# 990752 , Reply# 139   4/14/2018 at 20:59 (189 days old) by Stricklybojack (San Diego, CA)        

stricklybojack's profile picture
Liquid wrench is vastly better than wd-40 for such purposes.
Apply, and let it sit over night. Perhaps repeat.
I really hope you make this a gem, seems you're will settle for nothing less!

Post# 990765 , Reply# 140   4/15/2018 at 00:10 (189 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

It is true! And thank you!
I got the screw extractor set and used it, and it completely destroyed the bolt heads, but that left nothing holding the center plate holding the power unit, except for that weird extra little screw, which I could not even find the head of. I used the extractor on that too even though even though I could not see it. Then I bashed the crap out of the housing with a chisel and hammer to separate them and it finally worked! So noe I just have to get the broken bolts out of the bolt holes on the PU body, which should be easy. And judt remove the pieces of the PU and clean! Should be smoother sailing ahead!

Post# 990766 , Reply# 141   4/15/2018 at 00:44 (189 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

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Post# 990775 , Reply# 142   4/15/2018 at 02:08 (189 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

I lifted out the clutch pinion gear and cleaned it very well. It has a small bit of damage on it, but I think it will be alright for a very long time still.

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Post# 990807 , Reply# 143   4/15/2018 at 10:39 (189 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Great job

tinkr's profile picture
Now the cleaning really starts.
Don't know if you caught it but 1 of the bolts are longer. And has to be used in the same hole. Why?
Can't rember.

Off to work on boat wiring.
Getting warm and the lake is calling.

Post# 990847 , Reply# 144   4/15/2018 at 15:28 (189 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Thank you! And yes! I am excited! And those bolts are destroyed so I will have to get new ones anyway lol.
And nice! Have a great time wiring your boat!

Post# 990861 , Reply# 145   4/15/2018 at 17:27 (189 days old) by neptunebob (Pittsburgh, PA)        
Don't mean to be rude, but the question is burning..

neptunebob's profile picture
It seems like a lot work for a wringer washing machine that fell out of favor because using them seems like slavery. Are you sure you want to do all of this?

To anyone who knows: It seems that a wringer is a very complex machine, maybe more so than an automatic. Were they more difficult and more expensive to manufacture than the automatic washers were? What I am reading here, there are almost as many parts as a BD Whirlpool/Kenmore.

Post# 990896 , Reply# 146   4/15/2018 at 21:10 (188 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Nah it is a very simple machine, just built kind of weird. And I think using it would be fun. I have never even seen one in action until I got this machine and it will be an interesting, fun, and meditative experience. Plus I can agitate for as long as I want, add as much water as i want, and as much hot and cold water as I want. It also seems like it would last a lot longer than most automatics when properly cared for. It is extremely solidly built. Most of the parts are thick metal. There is almost no plastic. There are a lot less parts to break. And you dont have to use the wringer if you dont want to, if you have a spindrier, but I would be happy and intrigued by using the wringer too.

Post# 990897 , Reply# 147   4/15/2018 at 21:11 (188 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Once I fix this machine, I will likely have a washer that lasts my entire lifetime. And I am only 22.

Post# 990898 , Reply# 148   4/15/2018 at 21:39 (188 days old) by ea56 (Sonoma Co.,CA)        

ea56's profile picture
“And I think using it would be fun. I have never even seen one in action until I got this machine and it will be an interesting, fun, and meditative experience”.

Good for You! You will really love using this Maytag Wringer. When I was your age I had one and if I had the proper setup for a wringer I would have one again too, another Maytag!

To me it is theraputic, and you description of meditative is apt. You get into the rhythm of the process and to me it was fun. Plus, the laundry was amazingly clean and a whole weeks wash done in about an hour.

I commend you on you tenacity in getting this piece of history up and running and restored. Yo will not regret you efforts.


Post# 990911 , Reply# 149   4/16/2018 at 00:37 (188 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Plus... I am already pretty far into this project. It is too late to wonder if it is worth it hah. But it is to me.

Post# 990912 , Reply# 150   4/16/2018 at 00:47 (188 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Why thank you Eddie! You get it! I have tried it with water and it is really cool! I love the movement it has, and I could for sure see how it would really bash those clothes clean more than any other machine; even some other wringer brands.
And yes! It seems like it would be a nice experience!
And thank you! I see it as a piece of history too! I like that I am young and getting into having one. It seems like it would be quite rare hah, and I will be able to use this machine for decades. I will probably still use it when it turns 100 years old; and beyond that even!
I loved washers since I was very young. By 4, I had learned to climb up on the washer and stick my finger in the lid switch so I could watch the cycle, and I very often washed random rags that I found in a bucket outside, manually. Lol! And my uncle also gave me his broken washer to play with when I was a little kid, and I did. It sat outside haha! So I can imagine it being fun!

Post# 990914 , Reply# 151   4/16/2018 at 00:54 (188 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

I look at these machines like I look at records and Polaroid cameras. It is not nearly as big of a thing, but it is old and cool and should be kept around because of it.

Post# 990927 , Reply# 152   4/16/2018 at 04:35 (188 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Ok so far I have out and cleaned the clutch pinion gear, the main shaft for the rack gear, and the rack gear. All 3 of them have some damage. I am most concerned about the rack gear, as it has bits of multiple teeth missing, some tiny pieces of metal stuck under the teeth of the gear, and the teeth of the gear have rough edges and little pits. The pinion gear just has one big chunk missing, and the main shaft has a weird shallow crater in it. What are you guys' opinions? Do you think I need to replace any of them?
Pic 1 is the pinion, 2 is the shaft, and 3 and 4 are the rack gear.
I just dont want any pieces to break off and cause more damage while I am using the machine. There is the same worry about fixing some of the issues with JB weld.

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Post# 990977 , Reply# 153   4/16/2018 at 12:48 (188 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
In your video

tinkr's profile picture
I noticed movement after you pushed in the shifting rod. I wondered why it did that.
I certainly am no expert but it may be the damage you have on the gears.

I noticed (for lack of better word) a grinding when you pushed in the shaft.
Mine does that sometimes. And I'd bet that is what damaged the rack gear.

Ok JB weld I dont think it would be strong enough. The pitting on the shaft may be from metal stuck in one place and wore pits in it.

Best bet A phone call to Tuscon. Pick his brain. See if he has gears alone he will sell.
We didnt dissamble my broken gear box. I know teeth were damged. It would jam and not move.

Your machine was working. How far do you want to go with it?

It is sad to say, but I have the idea, that women that were tired of their wringer washers MAY have sabotaged them.
Believe me I know a few that have ruined perfectaly good items to get what they want.

Post# 990990 , Reply# 154   4/16/2018 at 13:40 (188 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

My thoughts on the movement after disengaging the shifter rod is that maybe some old oil was in between the two pinion gears that separate when disengaged, or under the bottom pinion gear at the shifter mechanism stopping it from moving far enough away, or just being thick globby liquid that had enough force to turn the top gear slightly. When it was turning while disengaged, I could hold the agitator gently and it would be enough to stop it, so I think it was the liquid.
And yeah I noticed the grinding that happens sometimes too and it scared me lol. I will for sure be giving Mark a call about the damaged gears. I am sure he has them in stock, I just wanted as many opinions on it as possible.

And lol! That makes sense! But this does not seems like one of those.

Post# 991032 , Reply# 155   4/16/2018 at 22:43 (187 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Marks says to replace, replace, replace!
He also says those parts are pretty cheap.

Post# 991036 , Reply# 156   4/17/2018 at 00:56 (187 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
That's best since you've come this far.
We old timers will enjoy this rebuild thread. So thank you for sharing it with us.
Wish I could be there to watch and help.
The day will come (after a little learning curve) that you will fire up a brand new looking Maytag.
Youl enjoy showing it with someone older that use to have one when they were younger.
(I have enjoyed seeing the smile it brought to a old lady.. that had one like mine that she used to wash all her kids diapers in. It brought her back to a certain time that she was happy in)
Youl probably have this machine your whole life.. You may get to the point that you no longer use it (years from now) but youl feel good about what you accomplished, and to know that you can use it whenever your in the mood.
Keep up the good work!

Post# 991038 , Reply# 157   4/17/2018 at 00:57 (187 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Well I tried the best way I could think to remove the worm wheel, which was to use a ratchet with a spade bit, and I stood ontop of the transmission to hold it down, and the stud for the wheel would not tutn. It is stuck! Anyone got amy ideas to get it out?

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Post# 991039 , Reply# 158   4/17/2018 at 01:01 (187 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Yes, so true! And thank you! I am glad you are enjoying it!
That will be cool! It is also fun to show it to other people my age and have their reaction be "What is that!?!
I am so excoted to have a nearly brand new maytag! And I plan to use it my whole life when I need to wash clothes!

Post# 991093 , Reply# 159   4/17/2018 at 11:25 (187 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Removing the gear

tinkr's profile picture
The service manual says use the handle of a spanner wrench. I don't know. If its really stuck PB blaster or liquid wrench. Oh I was warned about removing the plug with the plus sign not to do it difficult to adjust it from scratch.
And thats all I know Sorry.

Post# 991118 , Reply# 160   4/17/2018 at 13:39 (187 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

I dont have the spanner wrench. It is not even in the parts diagram booklet weirdly enough. I tried PB blaster, and it is still sitting with some on it but I think I actually sprayed it in thw wrong place lol. So I wil try that again. I would just think I would get more leverage this way than with a flat metal object on its own.
Larry warned me not to remove that thrust bearing retainer also, but the manual says to just do it. I will have to read the putting it back together section to see what it says about that lol.

Post# 991119 , Reply# 161   4/17/2018 at 13:40 (187 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

I dont have the spanner wrench. It is not even in the parts diagram booklet weirdly enough. I tried PB blaster, and it is still sitting with some on it but I think I actually sprayed it in thw wrong place lol. So I wil try that again. I would just think I would get more leverage this way than with a flat metal object on its own.
Larry warned me not to remove that thrust bearing retainer also, but the manual says to just do it. I will have to read the putting it back together section to see what it says about that lol.

Post# 991194 , Reply# 162   4/18/2018 at 00:56 (186 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
Let the PB blaster soak for a day..then some heat.

Post# 991197 , Reply# 163   4/18/2018 at 03:47 (186 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

I tried it again today, but still stuck. Will let the PB blaster sit. And heat? Hmm. I dont havw a torch so idk what I would use for that. I think tomorrow I will just try smacking it with a hammer! And if that doesnt work, I will try to cut the wheel in half with a dremel saw. I have no patience for that BS lol. Especially since the wheel is being replaced, and the stud comes with it. Also, those 4 gears add up to about $111 from Mark. I cant imagine a new power unit from him being much more than $180, in case I cant get it.

By the way, I got my box of parts from him!

Also, I looked in the manual about the thrust bearing retainer, and it sounds very easy to put back in and set the thrust. All you do is tighten it then back off barely, and then do it once more when the whole PU is put back together and installed.

Post# 991245 , Reply# 164   4/18/2018 at 12:35 (186 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
There's always one bolt

tinkr's profile picture
In every project. I was thinking heat also. I would think the gears are hardnend steel. Will a Dremel blade
cut that?
And in the past my experience , in the instructons it sounds so easy.
In actual life it's anything but.

Yea on the parts. Concentrate on something else and let the other soak.
At least you know your making progress.

Post# 991250 , Reply# 165   4/18/2018 at 14:11 (186 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

It has been soaking all night so I will try it today.
It isnt a regular dremel tool with a small blade, is is specifically a dremel saw with a 4 or 5 inch diameter metal saw blade. Not sure if it will cut it, but I will try that if bashing it with a hammer doesnt work.
I guess there are a couple other things I could do while I wait.
And yeah, it is always harder than it sounds lol! Instructions: "Remove the stud for worm wheel by inserting the handle of a 38111 spanner wrench into the slot of the worm wheel stud and turn clockwise to unscrew."
There is no 38111 spanner wrench even in the parts catalog, and the thing does not want to move at all! So that means hammer time!

Post# 991253 , Reply# 166   4/18/2018 at 14:16 (186 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

I put enough torque on that thing, that it twisted off the butt end of the drill bit in the socket.

Post# 991290 , Reply# 167   4/18/2018 at 17:49 (186 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Ok so I tried hammering on the stud, and it came off with the worm wheel. Problem is that it wont come off the worm wheel, no matter how much I hammer the stud, and the two together do not fit to come out of the power unit as a whole. The possibility of just getting a new power unit draws ever closer.

Post# 991292 , Reply# 168   4/18/2018 at 18:11 (186 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

The dremel saw cut with ease but was not deep enough.

Post# 991478 , Reply# 169   4/19/2018 at 23:33 (184 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
Power Unit.. Sounds like a plan!
Can you get one? If you can and you get new one..maybe you can drop that one from a second floor! Wonder if that would break it loose! LOL

Post# 991482 , Reply# 170   4/20/2018 at 01:09 (184 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

No not yet. I got to talk to Mark a bit more, and he convinced me not to buy one as they are around $280 from him, not counting shipping and tax. But again that is for a fresh power unit and center plate attached to it.
He suggested trying soaking the whole thing in solvent for a day, but I am gonna look for the router saw in the garage, and get a metal cutting blade for it and try to cut through the stud rather than the worm wheel and hope that works. And you would habe to drop it from 10 stories and smash up the housing to maybe come close to getting that wheel to come off. It may as well be one piece.

Post# 991483 , Reply# 171   4/20/2018 at 01:10 (184 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

I bashed it with a hammer A LOT!

Post# 991562 , Reply# 172   4/20/2018 at 15:48 (184 days old) by Stricklybojack (San Diego, CA)        

stricklybojack's profile picture
Post more pics if you can.
I really want to see what's going on.

Post# 991585 , Reply# 173   4/20/2018 at 21:32 (183 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

OMG! I finally got the worm wheel and stud out of the transmission. I had to cut the worm wheel into pieces and hammer and chisel at it. Evrn with a big chunk removed, it still would not come out, but here it is! Hopefully the housing isnt too badly damaged. Now it is on to the thrust bearing retainer, worm wheel, and shifter cam!

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Post# 991586 , Reply# 174   4/20/2018 at 21:33 (183 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

*Worm gear, not worm wheel.

Post# 991591 , Reply# 175   4/20/2018 at 23:06 (183 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        

tinkr's profile picture
Pays off. Holy moley. Speechless.

Post# 991599 , Reply# 176   4/21/2018 at 01:12 (183 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Haha! Yes it does! Thank you! It took me days to decide to just go ahead and cut it up, and I had to get a thick metal cutting blade for pur sawzall, and use two metal cutting wheels on my dremel saw.

Now the thrust bearing retainer is stuck on and so is the thrust collar to the worm shaft. The shaft keeps turning so I cant really grip it. Will try using a piece of the worm wheel to lock teeth and hold it in place, but i still gotta gett of the retainer.
And the instructions are actually a bit wrong on this part.

Post# 991600 , Reply# 177   4/21/2018 at 01:21 (183 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        


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Post# 991602 , Reply# 178   4/21/2018 at 01:42 (183 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Ok i got it all out, just have to get the parts separated now.
Instructions "tap down on one end of the retainer to loosen it." But it does not do anything. Real life, hit the other end of the worm shaft with a hammer to poo it out.

Post# 991606 , Reply# 179   4/21/2018 at 02:55 (183 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        
Can u

stan's profile picture
Get a new part for that broken one?
You doing really well with this! You've got the same deternanation that Larry had! And you have a great attitude
Your problems are a bit unique to your old gal, but thats they way if it..with these old girls
I'm staying tuned in!

Post# 991609 , Reply# 180   4/21/2018 at 03:29 (183 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

OMG! Haha! Pop* it out, not poo!

Yes, Mark says he had a bunch. I did not expect that to breal being a thick piece of metal, but it seems like it is made of stone rather than metal, because of all the sparkles inside insider.

Thank you! I am happy for the progress! And it is tough to keep up a good attitude about it, but at the same time, I had gotten quite upset about itk7

Post# 991610 , Reply# 181   4/21/2018 at 03:46 (183 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Sorry was falling asleep when I wrote that hah. I meant to say break, not "breal", and "it is tough to keep up a good attitude, but I am excited for the final product and am having fun doing the project too!" I also got out some frustration with it by cutting the worm wheel into pieces and hitting it a lot with a hammer. Haha!
And interesting fact, Larry did not take apart his whole power unit, he replaced it with a used one instead. His determination was with that tub of his though.
And I am glad you are staying tuned in! Thank you!

Post# 991637 , Reply# 182   4/21/2018 at 12:41 (183 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Well oh well

tinkr's profile picture
The plot thickens....

You may be able to JB weld that piece.
The bolt goes into the body of the gear box. So not much strain on that ear.
I believe it is cast metal. And is not hardned. Like the gears.
I'd try it, over 300.00 for a gear box. That's steep. That is the power of supply and demand.
You could find a tested working machine for that.
I know that is something you don't want to think about.

We feel your frustration.

Post# 991717 , Reply# 183   4/21/2018 at 22:51 (182 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Oh it is all good! Mark says he has a lot of that piece so it is an easy replacement. And why are the gears not hardened? They should be. No wonder they were all chewed up. The worm gear was the only one that wasnt, so I am guessing it is hardened.
And yeah, a power unit would be around $280 from him, and that is after him taking $100 off! But they used to charge $380 for them back when his buisness repaired the machines. This is a brand new power unit, not a used one. Completely fresh, 0 miles on it. You will not find that many places. I am gonna stick with mine and replace most of the parts.
I am not too frustrated about it now, but thank you! I just have to separate the worm gear from the TBR collar and clean the PU housing. It is soaking in vinegar and citric acid. It looks to be working quite well!

Post# 991719 , Reply# 184   4/21/2018 at 23:07 (182 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        

tinkr's profile picture
are hardend.
Finding parts with 0 miles on them is a rarity.
There is an appliance repair in Glendale. They have an avacado wringer. Price 500.00.
I didn't ask if it was new. I suppose that;s a deal if it is new Considering what parts cost new.

glad your not discouraged. That machine owes you many years of laundry.

Post# 991720 , Reply# 185   4/21/2018 at 23:44 (182 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Why thank you! It certainly does!
And I bet it is not new, probably repaired though. So many machines on ebay go for around $500 or even more! And they arent even that great looking! It is nuts! I only got this machine for $50 so I dont feel to bad, also considering that new washers cost around $500 for a "decent" one. My total should be somewhere around $500-$600 for everything once complete.
And yes, that is very rare! All the parts except the gooseneck that i got so far have 0 miles as well, like the pump for one, and the index slide, and others.

Post# 991728 , Reply# 186   4/22/2018 at 01:00 (182 days old) by Stricklybojack (San Diego, CA)        

stricklybojack's profile picture
I thought this was a bit pricey until I saw here what parts for these cost...
$550 asking for a very low mileage unit.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO Stricklybojack's LINK on Phoenix Craigslist

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Post# 991729 , Reply# 187   4/22/2018 at 01:06 (182 days old) by Stricklybojack (San Diego, CA)        

stricklybojack's profile picture
Here's another, restored, $425.

When you get yours going it will be so satisfying to use knowing you saved it from oblivion.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO Stricklybojack's LINK on Phoenix Craigslist

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Post# 991730 , Reply# 188   4/22/2018 at 01:38 (182 days old) by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Oh wow! Those are in very nice shape! And I agree, it will be!
I prefer the square one to the round one myself, and one with a logo sticker to one with those metal M A Y T A G letters. But still those are extremely nice!

Post# 992224 , Reply# 189   4/26/2018 at 15:48 by wringer (x)        
Bunker Hill Appliance

They are my family and have every single part you need to repair or restore any Maytag wringer washer. They bought every part that Lehman's had. Lehman's may have a few parts yet I think but not sure. Bunker Hill Appliances buys old Maytag wringers and totally restores them from top to bottom making them look and work like new and sells them. They are Amish. There is also a newly made washer from them that is an exact copy of the Maytag E. They are made in PA buy an Amish man who also manufactures all Maytag wringer parts. The new washer costs $1,995.00 and keep going up. They sell like wild fire. They are truly awesome.

Post# 992245 , Reply# 190   4/26/2018 at 19:40 by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Have not posted in a while. Been working on cleaning the PU, and took some breaks hah. Here are the official before pictures of the machine!
Notice how rusty the power unit housing is...

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Post# 992246 , Reply# 191   4/26/2018 at 19:43 by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

And that is all really cool! Sounds like something that would be worth looking into! And cool that they are your family! Does the man actually make new parts for the E2L series?

Post# 992559 , Reply# 192   4/29/2018 at 23:01 by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
What's going on dude?
Any more progress ?

Post# 992571 , Reply# 193   4/30/2018 at 00:55 by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

TBH, after cleaning up the PU housing, and having more parts on the way, not a lot. I have not had a chance to work on it the past few weeks as work has been busy, and I have been tired lol. But I plan on it soon. I also have some pics of the cleaned Power Unit. I just have to finish brushing off some rust dust and JB weld some spots on the top that I cut a little by accident.
The last pic is of it before cleaning. I cleaned all the grease and rust with vinegar, water, and citric acid, and then put it in a solution of calcium hydroxide to stop new rusting.

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Post# 992574 , Reply# 194   4/30/2018 at 00:57 by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

I have not had a chance to work on it the past few days...*

Post# 992911 , Reply# 195   5/2/2018 at 19:39 by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Heres the next set of parts I ordered. The Pinion gear is the only one that is used, the rest are new, and it is in great shape! All the gears seem to have rust on them though, so they will have a soak in citric acid and then calcium hydroxide. The worm wheel came in that original Maytag box, unopened, which I will be keeping for sure! The only thing I am a bit concerned about is a tiny chip in a tooth on the wheel. Why is there one on an unused, unopened wheel? Do you think it will be a problem? I feel like I might be worrying to much as it has a few nics in some of the teeth, and maybe the casting process for it just wasnt perfect.

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Post# 994407 , Reply# 196   5/16/2018 at 21:52 by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture

Post# 994869 , Reply# 197   5/21/2018 at 23:56 by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

I havent gotten much done on it. Work has been very busy and so has the rest of my free time. I work on it when I can though. I basically just got all the rust cleaned off the parts of the power unit. Yet still new rust keeps forming. I am about to spray it with WD-40 specialist.

Post# 997209 , Reply# 198   6/15/2018 at 02:01 by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
What's going on with this?
You got it up and running ?

Post# 997254 , Reply# 199   6/15/2018 at 14:45 by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

No. Im sorry to report that I havent worked on it at all since my last message pretty much. I have been so busy with work and things lately. I will be getting to it soon though.

Post# 998501 , Reply# 200   6/27/2018 at 02:08 by Stan (Napa CA)        
Will be waiting

stan's profile picture
To see the rebuild!
Hope u take lots of pics

Post# 999268 , Reply# 201   7/4/2018 at 09:04 by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Welo thank you Stan! It is nice to know there are people with me on this project. I have some good news too! I have decided to pick up the project again. I talked to Mark and have him looking in his shop for more parts. One of them is the slide for rack #K1416. I need a new one because I lost it. I could not find it even before I took a break from the project. So that was kind of dumb, but I will just get a new one! Lol

Post# 999669 , Reply# 202   7/8/2018 at 00:02 by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
With you!
If only in print LOL
I don't stop by the forum as often as I use to but I'll keep a eye out for ur posts of progress

Post# 1000695 , Reply# 203   7/18/2018 at 20:15 by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Why thank you Stan!
Does anyone here know how to pop off the agitator shaft from the center plate so I can clean the plate and replace the bearings, or should I just get a whole new center plate? I am pretty sure mine are bad.

Post# 1000701 , Reply# 204   7/18/2018 at 20:34 by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Oh i actually found it in the repair manual and might try it.

Post# 1000714 , Reply# 205   7/18/2018 at 23:12 by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

I tried getting it off, and of course like everything else in the power unit that is supposed to come apart, it is stuck hah. I may end up needing a new center plate. There is so much play in the shaft.

Post# 1000887 , Reply# 206   7/20/2018 at 23:04 by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

I bought a pin punch set, and tried it on the pin that holds the pinion gear to the shaft, and I cant get it to drive out. The punch keeps slipping, and the good hits dont do anything.
I took apart the right angle drive though and found the pins that hold the bevel gears onto their shafts, and I was actually able to punch them out with decent ease.
Does anyone have an idea as to how to clean the insides of the tubes of the horizontal and vertical right angle drive?

Post# 1000986 , Reply# 207   7/22/2018 at 01:46 by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

I now have the entire thing apart, minus the wringer head. All the legs off and wheels off and apart. I am trying to remove all the rust and grease from everything.
I changed out my citric acid with vinegar bucket so I could have fresh cleaning solution. It was black from cleaning all the old parts, and had the belt guard and worm wheel sitting in it for a month or so during the break in the project. Explains why they scrubbed clean very easily. Even the old paint came off!
I have also decided to just buy a new center plate with agitator shaft assembly from Mark. He said it would be around $120, so not too bad. It is brand new old stock, still in the box! That and the other parts from him will be ordered on Monday.
Until they arrive, I have a lot of sanding of the chassis and the legs to do!
I think for the drive tubes, and a couple other greasy parts, I will wash with plain water and dawn dish soap to cut through the grease. Maybe I can figure some way to spray inside the tubes to take out the old grease. I cant use vinegar or citric acid solution on them as it rusts metal within 10 minutes if the object isnt completely submerged, and I have no way to scrub the inside. It removes rust very easily though, if you scrub it right when it comes out of the solution.
So happy to have things moving along again!

Post# 1000987 , Reply# 208   7/22/2018 at 01:47 by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

I now have the entire thing apart, minus the wringer head. All the legs off and wheels off and apart. I am trying to remove all the rust and grease from everything.
I changed out my citric acid with vinegar bucket so I could have fresh cleaning solution. It was black from cleaning all the old parts, and had the belt guard and worm wheel sitting in it for a month or so during the break in the project. Explains why they scrubbed clean very easily. Even the old paint came off!
I have also decided to just buy a new center plate with agitator shaft assembly from Mark. He said it would be around $120, so not too bad. It is brand new old stock, still in the box! That and the other parts from him will be ordered on Monday.
Until they arrive, I have a lot of sanding of the chassis and the legs to do!
I think for the drive tubes, and a couple other greasy parts, I will wash with plain water and dawn dish soap to cut through the grease. Maybe I can figure some way to spray inside the tubes to take out the old grease. I cant use vinegar or citric acid solution on them as it rusts metal within 10 minutes if the object isnt completely submerged, and I have no way to scrub the inside. It removes rust very easily though, if you scrub it right when it comes out of the solution.
So happy to have things moving along again!

Post# 1001109 , Reply# 209   7/23/2018 at 01:40 by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
Might email Larry or reference his thread about the drive tubes.if I remember he think he showed pics of that part of his rebuild

Post# 1001461 , Reply# 210   7/25/2018 at 23:32 by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Hm okay. Ill have to check it out.
I fount at home depot, a microfiber duster with a thin stiff metal core, and its long, and was very cheap. It will be absolutely ruined, but it should fit into the tubes and rub off most of the old grease, along with hot water and soap is what I will try.

Post# 1001564 , Reply# 211   7/27/2018 at 01:45 by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Okay so a bit of a bad thing happened. I had sanded off a lot of paint and rust from 2 sides of the chassis on the outside with my electric sander. I got powder everywhere in the small building it is in. There is a lot of stuff in there, and the powder settled on every possible non verticle, right side up surface. It also got in my nose and a little bit in my eyes. Enough to make me blow white out of my nose lol. Then I thought...this machine is from 1952, so it might have lead paint. I thought it could be powder coated, which wouldnt be, but to make sure, I bought a lead tester kit from home depot. And it got a positive result. So now I have poisoned myself a little bit, and ruined a room and all the stuff in it. Im not quite sure what to do at this point. I feel nervous to even go in there. I will have to do some reading to see if it is safe enough to go in there and vaccum everything up and clean everything that got the powder on it. That includes taking things apart. I also must figure out how to get all of the paint off without releasing a bunch of powder into the air. This includes the paint inside of the legs. Any ideas?

BTW, the circles on the card contain lead to prove the substance works. They show the color of what a positive result looks like.

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Post# 1001586 , Reply# 212   7/27/2018 at 08:04 by dermacie (my forever home (Glenshaw, PA))        

dermacie's profile picture
Concerning lead paint:

I also sanded my 1952 Maytag in my garage which is built into my home, I never thought about lead and I did not wear a mask. Shame on me for not even thinking about it. I am also an adult and I have no children living with me and was under the impression that Lead is most harmful to younger children.

I have noticed that most people on here have sanded there machines outside and that is where I would continue and I would wear a mask. Once painted the lead will be encapsulated and not harmful.

Post# 1001690 , Reply# 213   7/28/2018 at 01:48 by tolivac (greenville nc)        

I thought lead was in house paints-not appliance paints.

Post# 1001691 , Reply# 214   7/28/2018 at 01:53 by tolivac (greenville nc)        

Another thing----back in the 50's and 60's you see many a householder removing house paint with sanders,paint remover machines,scrapers,torches and without any protection.Didn't see any of those folks dying like flies.And as a kid I cleaned out impact type bullet traps without protection.The lead dust was absorbed in the sand in the splash plate backstop.For the most part the bullets were in HUGE clumps-lifted them out for the recycler-yes the lead was recycled in those days--early 60's.
We cleaned out rhe clumps-put in new sand and new Homasite board-what you put the targets on and all was well.No one said anything about it-was part of being a jr rifle club member.I am OK today over 50years later!Thios was in the indoor pistol range.

Post# 1001692 , Reply# 215   7/28/2018 at 01:54 by ea56 (Sonoma Co.,CA)        

ea56's profile picture
There was a time when just about all paint had lead in it.

Post# 1001790 , Reply# 216   7/29/2018 at 03:20 by Stan (Napa CA)        
Don't panic. What's done is done

stan's profile picture
Get a bucket of soapy water and wipe off as much as possible. Dig a hole somewhere to pour the buckets into, and bury it. Try to avoid sweeping or using ur vacuum until you've got as much removed with soap and water. Keeping it damp will reduce dust.
If u need to sand more on the machine, wet sand with a bucket of soapy water to reduce dust.

Post# 1001813 , Reply# 217   7/29/2018 at 10:16 by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Thank you all for the replies. I wasnt really too concerned that it would kill me, but more so that it could give me some kind of slight brain or organ damge over time. I feel a lot better about it now though. I read online that many of the foods I eat remove lead from the body, and I read also it can be cleaned up with just soap and water. It would not have though it was so simple. That will be quite tedious though considering home much stuff is in that room lol.
To remove the paint, I have found a non toxic paint stripping gel, and I tested it on a spot and it worked very well after only 3 hours! So now most of the chassis is covered in it. Then Ill just peel it off in clumps with a scraper or steel wool, and throw the paint bits away.
Sorry for the episode everyone. Haha! I was just so concerned after I blew my nose and white paint came out, and found out it was leaded.

I would not have thought appliance paint would be leaded, as I thought it could be powder coated or something like that, but the test kit almost definitely proves it. And powder coating was very new in 1952. It was even redder when I went out there last night.

Post# 1002047 , Reply# 218   7/31/2018 at 16:53 by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

I now have all the chassis parts covered in paint stripper including the legs and the horizontal and vertical drive shafts. The chassis has all but the front outside coated, and has been coated for days, and it just made it a little easier to scrape and scrub off the paint. But for some reason, the paint on the vertical part of the right angle drive has peeled iteself up, while nothing else has done this.
Also, I got more parts in the mail yesturday, and it should be all the parts that I need, besides maybe for the wringer. I did not realize how rough my center plate was until seeing this brand new one!

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Post# 1002579 , Reply# 219   8/5/2018 at 02:21 by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
Sounds and looks like your close to reassembly! Or at least repaint

Post# 1002714 , Reply# 220   8/6/2018 at 11:30 by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Yes! It is near! In fact I have bought the paints to use on the machine! A primer, tough white layer, and the color I have chosen for the top... I picked a fun color and I think I'm going to like it... Turquoise!
The paint stripper did not do what it did on the vertical right angle drive to any of the other pieces I cover with it. Im thinking because that one part was aluminum and the rest is steel. It did weaken the paint so it can be scrubbed or scraped, but it really is difficult to get off still. I decided to just throw all the pieces into a giant Tupperware container filled with vinegar and citric acid. The reaction has definitely taken place. Id like to even put the chassis in there if it will fit!

Post# 1002792 , Reply# 221   8/7/2018 at 02:43 by Stan (Napa CA)        
A lot

stan's profile picture
Of scraping sanding priming
What paint are you using as ur finish coat?
Can't go along with ur color choice for the lid.. I if its not going to be white.. Think it would look better if it was polished aluminum with a clear coat. But the lid is easy enough to change color on!
Keep up the good work!

Post# 1002957 , Reply# 222   8/8/2018 at 11:51 by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Oh by "top" I meant top coat. Not the lid, thw whole machine. I will test it to see how I like it before putting it back together with that color. It is a lighter turquoise. Also my lid originally had paint on it I believe. It has not a lot of it left. I still have to take that off and soak it, but Im waiting until I finish the chassis and put the machine at least partially back together. There are too many pieces of the machine all over lol.
And yes tons of scraping and scrubbing. No more sanding until the paint is totally off though. I wont have to do a lot of scrubbing though as now the paint falls right off!
And thank you!

Post# 1005575 , Reply# 223   8/31/2018 at 02:22 by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
The good news with this ?
It's got to be up and running?
Just checking

Post# 1006716 , Reply# 224   9/10/2018 at 22:35 by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

The paint has put up quite a fight! I had been working on it for a while, not able to get it all off. Then i got busy for 2 weeks. Now I am back to work on it. Today I applied a nee paint stripping chemical. Just checking it nnonnow and the paint *seems* to come off easily. I will be attacking it full on tomorrow. Sorry this project has moved so slow lol.

Post# 1006849 , Reply# 225   9/11/2018 at 22:48 by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

The paint is now FINALLY all off! Of the chassis anyway. Now it is sanding time!

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Post# 1007002 , Reply# 226   9/13/2018 at 00:11 by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
Dont think I've ever seen one of these striped down that far!
What's next Mathis?

Post# 1007973 , Reply# 227   9/20/2018 at 17:35 by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Hah! Awesome! Bubbye rusty lead paint! And I am now finishing up sanding off all the rust. Haven't worked on it since my last post but am doing some tonight. Then Ill either start painting this, or sand off all the legs, then paint.

Post# 1008013 , Reply# 228   9/20/2018 at 21:04 by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Well it ended up being very difficult to get the rust off, so I finally found a container that was big enough to hold the chassis and soak it in citric acid solution, and so it is sitting in that now. That will make it easier. It might rust a little at the water line, but it is worth it.

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Post# 1008518 , Reply# 229   9/25/2018 at 07:44 by dermacie (my forever home (Glenshaw, PA))        

dermacie's profile picture
a product called Naval Jelly may help in this process it is very inexpensive and usually in hardware stores. I don't believe you can use it on aluminum though so be sure of the metal if you choose to use it. It is a great time saver!

Post# 1008663 , Reply# 230   9/26/2018 at 11:09 by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Oh thank you! I may have to look into that. And I had a problem with the paint stripper and the vertical part of the right angle drive. The first paint stripper I used took a lot of that paint off immediately but it also put pits in the aluminum! It also still has paint that is very stuck on to it, and it had some kind of goop on it last I checked. Now Ill have a pitted right angle drive but there isnt much to be done about it. It wont sand really. The paint stripper said nothing about not working with aluminum.

Post# 1008664 , Reply# 231   9/26/2018 at 11:12 by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

One side at a time, it is coming along.

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Post# 1009055 , Reply# 232   9/29/2018 at 23:37 by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Alright! All sides have now been de-rusted and sanded and cleaned! It is now time for priming and painting!!! Whoo!

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Post# 1009059 , Reply# 233   9/30/2018 at 00:33 by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Well I ran out of primer during the second coat, so here is my stopping point for tonight!
(Ignore those black splotches. That is my camera lens on my phone.)

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Post# 1009377 , Reply# 234   10/2/2018 at 15:49 by wringer (x)        

New parts for Maytag Wringer washers are still available which are made by an Amish man in PA. Only parts not available are for pump assemblies and their pully. Wringer rolls are available but are not as good as the old originals. Also, a total new wringer washer is available for 2 grand that he builds. It looks exactly like an E model and is beautiful. They sell like hot cakes to the Amish. My family sells all of these in Amish country.

Post# 1009680 , Reply# 235   10/4/2018 at 23:00 by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Oh wow! That is really cool! How much do they sell the rolls for by chance? Mine are pretty messed up but are still usable. Mark has brand new unopened ones but they understandable cost a fortune, and he has used ones which are still a bit pricey. I believe the used ones were around $130. He usually gives me some discounts though. I'd much rather have new ones however.

Post# 1009682 , Reply# 236   10/4/2018 at 23:05 by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Here is the last time it will be seen white. This is the second type of paint layer; the white enamel. The first pic is with all the white paint done. I ran out, but will just do more coats of thefinal paint. Now on to turquoise!

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Post# 1009685 , Reply# 237   10/5/2018 at 00:25 by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

First coat of turquoise is done! Here it is next to the original agitator to see the color combo.

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Post# 1009697 , Reply# 238   10/5/2018 at 07:22 by dermacie (my forever home (Glenshaw, PA))        

dermacie's profile picture
looking great!

Post# 1009825 , Reply# 239   10/6/2018 at 02:42 by Stan (Napa CA)        
Glad t see ur back

stan's profile picture
On this project
What type of paint are u using??

Post# 1010156 , Reply# 240   10/8/2018 at 21:43 by mstone (Virginia Beach)        

Thank you both!
I am glad yo be working on it! I just keep giving it a little bit of work each day. I have been adding layers of turquoise since that post which I am still doing. The inside is turquoise now too. I think I may need to put a tough clearcoat of some kind on the outside because the turquoise paint is thick and sort of goopy and a little easy to scratch or chip. Maybe after a few days of hardening it would be better.
I used Rustoleum primer, then rustoleum white high strength enamel, and then turquoise rustoleum 2x enamel.

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