Thread Number: 75012  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Hotpoint 18680 restoration
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Post# 988247   3/26/2018 at 09:46 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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As promised, here is the thread of the restoration of this machine last summer. It will help me with the 1828 and hopefully will be useful to others.

Original photo from eBay back in early 2014 – machine was in Sussex and bought for 99p. The paint had worn off the top round the soap dispenser and the kick strip was pretty rusty but other than that it was not too bad although the house was being renovated so it was covered in dust


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Post# 988248 , Reply# 1   3/26/2018 at 09:49 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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Serial number dates this as March 1983. There was a long wait as it was in the storage unit awaiting the move to the new house which seemed to take forever but finally was placed in the new test facility waiting its first run (with a non-matching dryer on top)

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Post# 988249 , Reply# 2   3/26/2018 at 09:51 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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The machine had a very odd spin (see link) – this was down to the brushes being in poor condition. However, that was the least of the trouble as once water went into the machine I had a very wet floor!

CLICK HERE TO GO TO sesteve's LINK


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Post# 988250 , Reply# 3   3/26/2018 at 09:52 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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lots of yukky gunge came out which was a sign of what was to come but at least it was functioning

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Post# 988251 , Reply# 4   3/26/2018 at 09:53 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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So the restoration strip down starts. The removal of the control panel showed lots of old powder and grease - bleugh. You can see the motor lurking behind the timer and all its wiring

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Post# 988253 , Reply# 5   3/26/2018 at 09:56 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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Original door boot – note the hotpoint logo on the 12 o’clock position but the door boot had seen better days and did have a hole in it which was the main cause of the wet floor
Front panel off with the pressure switch and door interlock hanging. Close up of the heater and pressure vessel. Always a good idea to photograph the connections first!


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Post# 988255 , Reply# 6   3/26/2018 at 09:58 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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Lots of leakage from the soap dispenser hose by the looks of it. The clamp band was very badly rusted

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Post# 988256 , Reply# 7   3/26/2018 at 10:01 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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Behind the back panel was a bit more promising as it appeared clean and stain free – oh wait look at the rust down by the pump! I’d already taken the belt off. A close up of the door interlock pecker and the bolt number for the back plate – no.12 the last one to be undone to reveal …..

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Post# 988257 , Reply# 8   3/26/2018 at 10:02 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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This eek! A fair bit of corrosion. There was no sign of the heater bollard as detailed in the service manual either!

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Post# 988258 , Reply# 9   3/26/2018 at 10:04 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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This lump is actually a loose bit of metal. The strip of metal in the middle must be to help divert the water down to the sump during spins unless anyone knows differently?

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Post# 988259 , Reply# 10   3/26/2018 at 10:05 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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The corrosion didn’t stop in the lower parts of the tub either – not a great photo but it was also corroded at the top on the front seam. Looking sorry for itself in the second picture!

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Post# 988260 , Reply# 11   3/26/2018 at 10:07 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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Time for more strip down. Cabinet off giving great access – this chassis arrangement is similar to the Servis Quartz although the Quartz did not have a wraparound cabinet.

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Post# 988261 , Reply# 12   3/26/2018 at 10:09 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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The motor and concrete weight removed and the tub off the suspension. You can see a bit of external corrosion especially on the side of the dispenser inlet and along the front seam although that was pretty superficial. The rear gasket recess at the top didn’t look too great either!

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Post# 988262 , Reply# 13   3/26/2018 at 10:11 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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Some internal pitting and the full view of the horror at the bottom – no evidence of a hole for the heater bollard either

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Post# 988263 , Reply# 14   3/26/2018 at 10:12 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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What was the backplate going to be like?

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Post# 988264 , Reply# 15   3/26/2018 at 10:15 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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The spider didn’t seem too manky and the Drum was in good condition

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Post# 988265 , Reply# 16   3/26/2018 at 10:21 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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Pulley removed to show the outer bearing and the drum removed showing dried grease and rusty bearings. The backplate wasn't too bad – just a bit of corrosion around the lip.

Although the water seal was very hard and had failed The inner bearings seem to have faired ok though


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Post# 988266 , Reply# 17   3/26/2018 at 10:24 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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The rest of the stripdown continued. The module appears to be original although the pump may be a replacement – difficult to tell.

The state of the chassis can now be seen on the dispenser side.



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Post# 988267 , Reply# 18   3/26/2018 at 10:28 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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Out with the chemical metal – the first time I had used this stuff so not as neat as it could have been! I treated all of the poor areas. After a quick sand down I coated the whole of the outer tub with the two pack paint product recommended by another member – it has worked a treat although the cats started acting strangely with all the fumes!

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Post# 988268 , Reply# 19   3/26/2018 at 10:30 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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I managed to track down a heater bollard – unfortunately it didn’t come with the rest of the fittings so I had to bodge some up. I covered it with debor glue to be on the safe side. The last pic shows the new hole drilled for the bollard

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Post# 988269 , Reply# 20   3/26/2018 at 10:32 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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The dispenser side suspension rod was beyond repair but I had a spare off the 9544 to use. Unfortunately the thread at the top was not quite as long as it needed to be so I had to build it up with a couple of extra washers. The rubber mounts were in good condition so I reused them but replaced the plastic pivots as they were quite worn.

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Post# 988272 , Reply# 21   3/26/2018 at 10:36 by sesteve (London, UK)        
reassembly Alfresco style!

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The weather was nice so I decided to commandeer the garden table for reassembly! Concrete weight and sump hose refitted and you can see the heater bollard nut too. Heater re-installed and the dispenser hose glued securely in. A new hose was ridiculously expensive and the hose itself is in pretty good condition so hopefully it will last

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Post# 988274 , Reply# 22   3/26/2018 at 10:37 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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Backplate before a blast with the pressure washer and time to tackle the bearings

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Post# 988275 , Reply# 23   3/26/2018 at 10:40 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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I have a Hotpoint bearing tool set - £6 off eBay so gave it a go and it was quite easy to take them out.

Bearing-less backplate after the pressure wash. There seemed to be a bit of pitting in one of the recesses on the inside of the plate so I bunged a bit of chemical metal in just to be on the safe side.


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Post# 988276 , Reply# 24   3/26/2018 at 10:43 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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Close up of the old bearings all manked up. New sealed rear bearing and inner bearing and seal re-fitted using the same tool!

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Post# 988277 , Reply# 25   3/26/2018 at 10:45 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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Gave the spider the pressure wash treatment and it revealed that it was not as good as it first appeared!

Luckily I had a spare complete with the sealed bearings


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Post# 988278 , Reply# 26   3/26/2018 at 10:46 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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Time to tackle the chassis – this seemed like a good colour match. After a good sand down and a coat of red oxide paint it was sprayed and left to dry. One can was not quite enough but the insides can’t be seen easily

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Post# 988279 , Reply# 27   3/26/2018 at 10:47 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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Frying tonight! The fish slice was used to remove the console cover. Washing powder had damaged the very thin aluminium around the dispenser so out with the chemical metal again!

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Post# 988280 , Reply# 28   3/26/2018 at 10:49 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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Time for re-assembly. Wheels back on and suspension mounts re-fitted. The mounts were in quite good condition but I swapped them over


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Post# 988281 , Reply# 29   3/26/2018 at 10:52 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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motor and belt refitted and tensioned

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Post# 988283 , Reply# 30   3/26/2018 at 10:54 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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Drum back on the chassis and the cabinet refitted. From the rear – you can see how patchy the back of the base is!

Back panel with the fill valves refitted


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Post# 988286 , Reply# 31   3/26/2018 at 10:56 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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Quick water test – the dispenser is not fitted properly at this point. All seems good at the back but a couple of pesky leaks at the front from the thermostat and pressure vessel so out with the glue again and all sorted.

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Post# 988287 , Reply# 32   3/26/2018 at 10:57 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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Knob time – I was a bit nervous taking these apart but it was worth it as they cleaned up quite well. Didn’t want to rub too hard though just in case.

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Post# 988288 , Reply# 33   3/26/2018 at 11:00 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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finally all back together and the cosmetics tidied up. Unfortunately the control panel has lost its matt areas but the writing is all intact.

Mission accomplished and washing away. There have been a couple of issues with the water valves letting by but I have given them a good clean and that seems to have fixed them. Just need the missing stacking panel to fit in between the washer and dryer and to give the dryer a once over.

Next ...............


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Post# 988326 , Reply# 34   3/26/2018 at 13:20 by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

Hi Steve.

Well, that's an ever so slightly thorough repair job! Complete dismantle and full rebuild and the reward is a grand looking machine - looks excellent with the dryer sat on top.

Re the stacking kit - its a primitive affair to be honest and, with a suitable covering of the dryers kickpanel (anything smooth and white will do - ensuring it is cut to be half a centimetre or so below the base of the dryer, so the cover just touches the top of the washer fascia panel) and removal of the dryers studs and wheels a similar effect can achieved.
Just make sure you put a protective layer between the two machines, or you will have scratched paintwork.

Also beware the dryer studs and they develop sharp grooves over the years, which cut scratches into the tops of the washers so avoid sliding the dryers on (on 17-series dryers the studs are at the back and wheels at the front, so they scratch when you slide them on along the full depth of the machine they are sat on. 93-series dryers have the wheels at the back and studs at the front, massively reducing the problem).

Two screw in brackets at the back tie the machines together and the dryer sits on two plastic side pieces to hide the join.

Still, the above was a more advanced system than you got if you wanted to stack a 1701 dryer above a 1823 or 1826 Zan-point >>> am sure I read somewhere that the idea here was to stick them together with adhesive pads!

Thanks for taking the time to show us the rebuild - will come in useful when my 1828/02 comes up for surgery to repair a holed outer tub.

Cheers
Paul
p.s my 1701 still has studs and wheels attached, hence the gap in the photo of the machines stacked.


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Post# 988328 , Reply# 35   3/26/2018 at 13:32 by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

I've just noticed that you already have the plastic stacking kit side trims - sorry for all my unnecessary waffle above, Steve.

Might have a spare dryer kickplate cover and possibly brackets, but don't know for sure - will keep an eye out when shed space permits.

Paul


Post# 988342 , Reply# 36   3/26/2018 at 15:30 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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Hi Paul

Ah yes - I was lucky that when I got the dryer it had the strips attached- must have been stacked to a matching washer and then just sat on them as the studs and wheels had been removed. Unfortunately they are a bit damaged but still do the job. I hadn’t realised that there were brackets too - I thought it was a bit of a flimsy affair with just the strips especially if you had an unbalanced spin!

I had no choice but to do such a thorough rebuild - the outer tub was in a bad condition so it wouldn’t have been long before it would have had holes in it. All I’d say is make sure you do the tub repairs where there is really good ventilation - it wasn’t just the cats that were high as a kite lol

S


Post# 988589 , Reply# 37   3/28/2018 at 13:52 by Ricky5050 (Durham Britain)        
A maze ing!

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Wow Steve you've defo got the refurb jobs ! That's really good ! Will the purple one get the same love ?
Mind you you're probably a bit busier this year ! One thing sounded strange though you were worried about rubbing a knob too hard ??? Hmmm I didn't know this could be a problem ! ;)

Richard


Post# 988803 , Reply# 38   3/30/2018 at 05:54 by keymatic3203 (Cardiff UK)        
Great work Steve

I must remember to have a look at the bearing tool when I get the chance. I know I've not bought one in the past as the price was much higher back then, maybe I was just too tight lol.

Well done

Mathew


Post# 989059 , Reply# 39   4/1/2018 at 04:12 by sesteve (London, UK)        

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Hi Mathew

It was worth getting as it made the job so much easier and especially as I was a bit worried in case the backplate was a bit delicate - they have such a reputation of going thin. I had seen some before but they were very expensive and I just thought it wasn’t worth it. I wonder if it would work on other machines.

Richard - thanks. Hopefully the purple one won’t be so bad but I’ll strip down to check so I can stop any deterioration. On the knob front you always need to handle these things with respect to make sure you get the most from them ;p

S





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