Thread Number: 75134  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
1972 Maytag A806 and a DE806 Rescued. Part Two
[Down to Last]

automaticwasher.org's exclusive eBay Watch:
scroll >>> for more items
Post# 989478   4/4/2018 at 19:57 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

Formally "From the Cellar to the 19th Floor: The Maytag's New Home P1"

 

Finally, my dream set!

 

The Maytag's were in the basement of an old Victorian house in Red Lion, PA. The house had been closed up for decades and was dilapidated. The guy who had just bought it believes the machines had not been touched since the house was closed up. After a complete going through, these will ultimately become my daily drivers.

 

Original thread:

 

A Maytag A-806 an a DE-806 Matched Set!

http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/T...

 

From the Cellar to the 19th Floor: The Maytag's New Home P1

http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?74912

 

 

 





Post# 989486 , Reply# 1   4/4/2018 at 20:53 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
DE806

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

A lot of fabric residue around the drum axle.

 

fullsizeoutput_6d1

 

fullsizeoutput_6d2




This post was last edited 04/04/2018 at 21:31
Post# 989491 , Reply# 2   4/4/2018 at 21:33 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
DE806

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

fullsizeoutput_6d3

fullsizeoutput_6d5


Post# 989498 , Reply# 3   4/4/2018 at 22:28 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
DE806

ultramatic's profile picture
Post# 989567 , Reply# 4   4/5/2018 at 14:57 by potatochips (Nova Scotia)        

Louis, Im glad youre posting all of this great information and photos. This will always be here for users to reference.

Great find too! Neat history!


Post# 989591 , Reply# 5   4/5/2018 at 19:28 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Thanks Kevin!

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

I am very grateful for all of those who have posted threads on Maytag's in the past. Particularly on the 806 series. Not to mention, all the help and advise I am currently getting. The members of Automatic Washer are the best!


Post# 989610 , Reply# 6   4/5/2018 at 23:27 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
A806

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

Front cabinet panel, before:

 

fullsizeoutput_6e2

fullsizeoutput_6de

fullsizeoutput_6e0

 

 


Post# 989624 , Reply# 7   4/6/2018 at 04:04 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
A806

ultramatic's profile picture
Post# 990125 , Reply# 8   4/10/2018 at 00:07 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
A806

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

New water inlet valve (Whirlpool 285805). Are these adjustable in terms of water flow?

 

fullsizeoutput_6fc

fullsizeoutput_6fe


Post# 990147 , Reply# 9   4/10/2018 at 05:23 by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
most likely not adjustable.....

but this being one of the newer one-valve-for-all-machines, this may have the 70/30 mix already built in.....

as in, one of those valves we had to pull the screen, and drill the HOT side to match the COLD....otherwise your WARM will be dubbed down....


Post# 990150 , Reply# 10   4/10/2018 at 05:32 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

Thanks Martin. I was just wondering after seeing what appeared as adjustment tabs.


Post# 990229 , Reply# 11   4/10/2018 at 16:55 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

Cob webs give me the heebie- jeebies.

 

fullsizeoutput_6ff

 

fullsizeoutput_700

 

fullsizeoutput_702


Post# 990230 , Reply# 12   4/10/2018 at 17:17 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

Is this the correct tub light bulb?

 

Eiko 15T7DC-130V 130V 15W T-7 DC Bayonet Base Halogen Bulbs

15T7DC-130V 130V 15W T-7 DC Bayonet Base Halogen Bulb


Post# 990231 , Reply# 13   4/10/2018 at 17:22 by Spin-Doctor (Maryland)        

Really enjoying this thread, thanks for posting it. How did you refinish the paint (or porcelain) on the white panels shown?

Those are truly beautiful machines. Has me rethinking my current 1990 Kenmore DD rebuild. I'm still new to these beauties and have a lot to learn.


Post# 990242 , Reply# 14   4/10/2018 at 20:28 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

You're very welcomed spin. I used a product called "Sheffield Porcelain Touch-Up". It's meant to touch up chips in porcelain, but in this case, I used it to touch up chips in paint. This stuff is really thick, so seriously, "a little dab will do ya'." It looks better, but you can still tell where you applied it. Nothing beats a professional paint job.




This post was last edited 04/11/2018 at 00:19
Post# 990297 , Reply# 15   4/11/2018 at 09:57 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
A806

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

NOS water injector kit goes in today.

 

fullsizeoutput_703


Post# 990316 , Reply# 16   4/11/2018 at 13:39 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

 




  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 3         View Full Size


This post was last edited 04/11/2018 at 16:05
Post# 990326 , Reply# 17   4/11/2018 at 15:31 by Spin-Doctor (Maryland)        

So if you find a machine that has extensive porcelain chipping, is there a way to strip the old porcelain off and either have it re-porcelained or repainted? (or powder coated) Or do people usually just sand it down, fill the chips with bondo and repaint with automotive type paint?



Post# 990333 , Reply# 18   4/11/2018 at 16:18 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

As far as I know, reporcelaining is something left to the professionals. And it's pricey. As for painting, unless you have the proper equipment and expertise, again something I would farm out to an auto body shop for example. Painting over porcelain is never a good idea. It will chip and scratch easily. There are porcelain touch-up kits that involve multiple coats, sanding and other steps but I have never tried them. I imagine the end result would be better than just dabbing a touch of paint over the chip/scratch. It really depends how extensive the damage is, how handy you are or how much are you willing to spend to have it professionally done.



CLICK HERE TO GO TO Ultramatic's LINK

Post# 990338 , Reply# 19   4/11/2018 at 17:00 by good-shepherd (New Jersey)        
extensive porcelain chipping

DC Maytag's were only porcelain on the: Top cover, lid (and inner/outer tubs of course).

Small chips can be touched up with epoxy appliance paint.

www.rustoleum.com/product...

Cabinets were painted but over multiple zinc primer coats.

For more extensive damage better to find a similar donor machine and swap parts over. No need to find the exact year, within series will suffice and with or without the correct bleach dispenser.






Post# 990341 , Reply# 20   4/11/2018 at 17:56 by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
if you can ever find a body shop that has interns....looking for items to practice on....you can get some nice results inexpensively.....

just painting only, no porcelain....but it is professional equipment and results...


and if you can find ones that do paint on pin striping and detailing.....imagine all the script work you could get done....


my brother works at one of these places.....and they got a new paint booth....they were looking for machines to paint.....

their best work was making beer fridges with taps.....and then doing a custom paint job for sports teams, or a man cave.....all it cost you was for supplies...


Post# 990362 , Reply# 21   4/11/2018 at 21:16 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

OK, I went ahead and got the tub light, however instead of the regular 15 watt, I ordered a 25 watt. Now I'm wondering if this may melt the plastic lens on the tub. Original bulb is on the left.

 

 

 

 


  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 2         View Full Size
Post# 990363 , Reply# 22   4/11/2018 at 21:36 by RP2813 (The Big Blue Bubble)        

rp2813's profile picture

Louie, that bulb resembles your average upright vacuum cleaner headlamp, and I think those are available in 15 or 25 watts, so you might be safe with 25.  However, if you went with halogen, they tend to run hot so keep an eye on it.

 

Martin, thanks for pointing out the dumbed-down modern inlet valves.  That explains why the hot is such a slow flow on my A712, which has resulted in "warm" being more like "cool."   I may put the original valve back, as it worked OK once I removed the calcified screen from its "hot" inlet and had equal flow from both sides. 


Post# 990366 , Reply# 23   4/11/2018 at 22:06 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

Trouble with the image hosting site I am using. Pictures are disappearing and reappearing. I've had it. From now on all images will be uploaded directly to AW. Just the thought of all those past images potentially being lost makes me faint.


Post# 990382 , Reply# 24   4/12/2018 at 02:01 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
A806

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

A little hot water, a couple of tugs, and off it went. Practically no effort at all. I was pleasantly surprised to see how little corrosion was present. I hope this is a good omen on what I may find after a remove the inner tub. I suppose I'll have to order the tub wrench. 

 

 


  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 4         View Full Size
Post# 990383 , Reply# 25   4/12/2018 at 02:16 by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

askolover's profile picture

Louie, if you think the bulb may melt the plastic, is there a way to replace it with a piece of glass?


Post# 990385 , Reply# 26   4/12/2018 at 02:39 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

It's possible Gregg. It's a flat oval piece.


Post# 990386 , Reply# 27   4/12/2018 at 02:43 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
A806

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

This link posted by Douglas from redcarpetdrew is priceless. Many thanks for such a comprehensive and well thought out how to.



CLICK HERE TO GO TO Ultramatic's LINK



This post was last edited 04/12/2018 at 04:47
Post# 990395 , Reply# 28   4/12/2018 at 04:36 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

I'm changing out the tub bearing and seal, since I'm there, I might as well open up the tranny and replace the oil. I wonder what would happen if the oil was replaced with Redline MT-90 oil (as Cory suggested) AND I switched to the 50HZ pulley? Would it be the first Maytag in low Earth orbit? wink


Post# 990443 , Reply# 29   4/12/2018 at 15:16 by good-shepherd (New Jersey)        
how little corrosion was present

Hate to say it, but that agitator shaft looks to have a good deal of corrosion,
although not unexpected on a 46 year old machine but at least the agitator came off easily.


Post# 990445 , Reply# 30   4/12/2018 at 15:46 by good-shepherd (New Jersey)        
might as well open up the tranny and replace the oil

Sounds like you've got a case of the "might as wells"

Apparently, the trans oil is still available, claims to be for helical drives but exactly what type and weight who knows.

www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlp...

Gasket:

www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlp...



Post# 990448 , Reply# 31   4/12/2018 at 16:51 by Spin-Doctor (Maryland)        

Thanks for the info on refinishing. I'm pretty familiar with the ins and outs of automotive painting. That was my very first job and I still dabble with it here and there even today. It's cool that you could get them re-porcelained if desired, but looks quite pricey. Good to know the Maytag's only have a porcelain top and the rest painted. I could handle refinishing one if I ever landed a nice set. Anyway, not to derail this awesome thread.

Ultramatic how does one find machines like this? I see you're up in NY and managed to locate this set in PA. Just curious what the inside scoop is on finding a nice set like this for myself.


Post# 990466 , Reply# 32   4/12/2018 at 19:02 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

Didn't think the corrosion was that extensive. I guess I figured it was not as bad compared to what I have seen in much newer machines. And thanks Douglas on the info for the oil and gasket.


Post# 990468 , Reply# 33   4/12/2018 at 19:06 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

Well I lucked out in this case Spin. A friend of mine happened to see them on Craigslist and gave me a heads up. Craigslist is always a good bet. Plus Shoppers Square here in AW is a great resource for vintage appliances. Also, be prepared to drive my boy. LONG DRIVES. For this set I drove almost 4 hours one way. Good luck in your search!


Post# 990483 , Reply# 34   4/12/2018 at 20:47 by good-shepherd (New Jersey)        
Didn't think the corrosion was that extensive

Yeah, perhaps the photo makes it look worse than it really is.

All these corroded Maytag agitator shafts could have been avoided with some simple preventive maintenance, namely popping off the agitator once in a while and applying grease or even vaseline on the splines.



Post# 990485 , Reply# 35   4/12/2018 at 21:38 by good-shepherd (New Jersey)        
inside scoop is on finding a nice set like this for myself.

Might want to start with more recent vintage Maytag 10 or 12 series up to 1987 or so.

These are mechanically the same machines as 06 series albeit with different control panels and much easier to find than older models.

A712 and A612 models in nice shape come up on Craigslist now and then, matching dryers are an even easier find.. A806 models are few and far between but out there.

Here is what appears to be an A710 for sale:
allentown.craigslist.org/app/d/2...



Post# 990524 , Reply# 36   4/13/2018 at 07:27 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

I just posted a bunch of Maytags for sale in Shoppers Square. Most are far though.


Post# 990525 , Reply# 37   4/13/2018 at 07:30 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

There was a lot of grease on the shaft Douglas, but the machine is going on 45 years old. I just hope the transmission is in good shape when I open it up.


Post# 990526 , Reply# 38   4/13/2018 at 07:34 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

Oh Spin, you may want to try Search Tempest. It looks at all of Craigslist simultaneously. You can customize your search by distance, so at least you know if the drive is doable. Here's the link:



CLICK HERE TO GO TO Ultramatic's LINK

Post# 990733 , Reply# 39   4/14/2018 at 18:39 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
DE806

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

 


  View Full Size
Post# 990840 , Reply# 40   4/15/2018 at 14:46 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
DE806

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

 


  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 3         View Full Size
Post# 991140 , Reply# 41   4/17/2018 at 16:24 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
A806

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

SOB won't budge. Yes I know it's reverse threaded.

 

 

 

 


  View Full Size
Post# 991142 , Reply# 42   4/17/2018 at 16:37 by rickr (.)        

rickr's profile picture
Apply heat to it. I use MAP gas, because it burns hotter.

Post# 991159 , Reply# 43   4/17/2018 at 18:20 by Spin-Doctor (Maryland)        

I built this tool using some scrap metal I had laying around to get my corroded/stuck nut off. Zipped it right off literally in 1 second using my impact wrench.

  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 4         View Full Size
Post# 991160 , Reply# 44   4/17/2018 at 18:29 by Spin-Doctor (Maryland)        

And thanks for the heads up on how to find these washers. I have been using Search Tempest for years for finding other things I'm interested in. I just thought maybe there was some kind of underground classic washer mafia that could find these or something. ;-) I see it's the same methods used for just about anything else.

Post# 991166 , Reply# 45   4/17/2018 at 19:40 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
You're welcomed Spin.

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

That's a mighty tool you got there, but I'll have to do without.


Post# 991167 , Reply# 46   4/17/2018 at 19:41 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

Thanks Rick, I have a torch. Heat is next.


Post# 991169 , Reply# 47   4/17/2018 at 20:18 by Stricklybojack (San Diego, CA)        

stricklybojack's profile picture
.
That impact tub socket tool you made is kick ass!
Great idea.


Post# 991205 , Reply# 48   4/18/2018 at 06:03 by Spin-Doctor (Maryland)        

Thanks for compliments on the tool. I actually have the normal wrench shown in the other pic. I couldn't get the nut off with it and I didn't really want to waste time making the tool, but the nut on my 1990 Kenmore DD was really crusty and was NOT coming off. I was worried about accidentally chipping the ceramic tub coating by swinging a hammer around inside the tub too. And I considered heat, but again was worried that the heat might migrate into the thin walled tub sheet metal, causing it to distort and again possibly causing the porcelain to blister or chip. (the metal and porcelain are much thinner on my tub than the old ones, I'm sure)

If I had that beautiful old machine, which appears to have a perfect tub, I'd likewise be very careful with it. If you still have trouble getting it off, you might be able to buy a large deep well socket (at Home Depot, Tractor Supply etc or online) that fits over the shaft and rests on the outside of the teeth on the tool shown in your pics - and pay a welder a few bucks to weld it to the tool so that you can use an impact wrench. If you don't have an impact, you might be able to rent an electric one. Or, if you have a trailer or van where the washer can be somewhat easily transported, take it to an automotive repair garage and ask them to zip it off.

Just a thought in case it becomes super obstinate. Good luck.


Post# 991231 , Reply# 49   4/18/2018 at 10:08 by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
Nice Basket Lock Ring Removable Tool, Spin

combo52's profile picture
But there is really no reason Louie to even try to remove the basket lock ring on your old washer, since you are installing a new seal assembly anyway as a new lock ring comes with the seal and tub mounting kit.

To remove the old ring just crack it with a small cold chisel and snap it off, I have done this hundreds of times.If you want to make it really easy to crack drill one or two 1/8" holes in the ring and you will have it off in less than two minutes.

John L.


Post# 991291 , Reply# 50   4/18/2018 at 17:56 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

And here I am trying to save that damn ring when I don't even have to. Thanks John!


Post# 991305 , Reply# 51   4/18/2018 at 19:26 by good-shepherd (New Jersey)        
here I am trying to save that damn ring

Better lay towel or something in the tub, easy to slip with tools and chip the porcelain

Post# 991310 , Reply# 52   4/18/2018 at 19:34 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

Absolutely Douglas!


Post# 991351 , Reply# 53   4/19/2018 at 01:17 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

Whirlpool 6-2095720 Tub Seal Kit


  View Full Size
Post# 991352 , Reply# 54   4/19/2018 at 01:30 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

Washer Tub Bearing Kit for Maytag, 6-2040130


  View Full Size
Post# 991353 , Reply# 55   4/19/2018 at 01:32 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

AGITATOR SEAL FOR MAYTAG WASHERS - 6-0A57420


  View Full Size
Post# 991364 , Reply# 56   4/19/2018 at 05:58 by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
MT DC Tub Seal Kit

combo52's profile picture

Hi Louie, the TSK already has an agitator shaft seal assembled into the hub, you don't need the seal in post # 55 and it may not work properly unless you remove the lip seal and install the SS washer and clip that the older type seal was designed to use.

 

John L.


Post# 991378 , Reply# 57   4/19/2018 at 08:07 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Thanks John!

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

Any news on the 50hz pulley?

 

 


Post# 991385 , Reply# 58   4/19/2018 at 09:19 by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        

combo52's profile picture
50Z washer pulley, I have one for you, I can give it to Martin when I see him next week or I can ship it to you.

Post# 991686 , Reply# 59   4/21/2018 at 17:34 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
A806

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

Out with the old, in with the new.


  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 2         View Full Size
Post# 991690 , Reply# 60   4/21/2018 at 17:58 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
John...

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

This is why I wanted to install an original type shaft seal (6-0A57420):

 

Picture 1


  "You can see the old (right) and new (left). Gone is the clip and washer which compressed the shaft seal down. That has been replaced with a triple lip seal that is part of the stem. Ehh, it works but you can see how the newer LAT's have been leaking in larger percentages compares to the old kids..."

 

Picture 2

 

"This is the original shaft seal. You can still get them for now. I will use this in conjunction with the new triple lipped stem for a fool proof seal. The only time you CAN'T use this is when you have one of those orbital transmissions with the white plastic shaft keepers. It comes with a modicum of grease inside it but I usually add a little. You can use Maytag's center seal grease, or in a pinch, the blue colored boat trailer wheel bearing grease. just add a little and push it on the shaft 'point' down the install the stem." Originally posted by Redcarpetdrew.


  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 2         View Full Size


This post was last edited 04/21/2018 at 18:27
Post# 991712 , Reply# 61   4/21/2018 at 21:29 by good-shepherd (New Jersey)        
don't need the seal in post # 55 and it may not work pr

I wonder if an older style clip and washer mounting stem (in good shape) could be cleaned up and reused with a new agitator seal, boot and lock ring?

Since it's typically a failed agitator seal that leads to water intrusion and not the stem itself?

The revised triple lip seal appears a cost cutting measure rather than an improved design.





Post# 991747 , Reply# 62   4/22/2018 at 07:57 by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
MT DC Washer Agitator Shaft Seals

combo52's profile picture

I have never seen the newer lip type seal agitator shaft seal on the newer orbital transmissions fail. The leaks are always the main seal which MT cheapened when they went from a SS ring to a plastic one, the other main cause of leaks in this area was rust on the outside of the upper part of the bearing assembly that caused the spring loaded bellow to stick and not keep pressure on the sealing surface.

 

Lip type seals are superior to the old fashioned compression type seal MT used to use. Lip seals are used on all FL washers, all WP AWs and on and on and of course I am not saying that there are never failures, but it is almost always a better seal. [ look at the pictures of Tazzs MT A608 MT rusted agitator shaft in Mass. that he is rebuilding ] to see how the old type seal traps water and lets it into the transmission.

 

Hi Louie, problem here is the best way to put your washer into great shape. In order for a lip seal to work the plating-finish on the agitator shaft must be about perfect. If it is not you may be better off with the old type seal. BUT to use the old type seal you need the SS washer and clip ring to firmly hold it down, the lip type seal is not designed to do this, putting the old seal under the lip seal will either destroy the lip seal or do nothing, using these two seals this way is not recommended [Yes I know that Andy in Utah has done this ] But I tried to assemble one this way and it simply did not make sense.

 

John L.

 

 


Post# 992000 , Reply# 63   4/24/2018 at 17:54 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

Hi John, thanks for clarifying this. The A806 is going to be my main washer. I also have a compact Magic Chef that will serve as a back up. Currently the Magic Chef is the main washer as my beloved A107 has found a new, loving home.


Post# 992265 , Reply# 64   4/26/2018 at 22:49 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

Guys, I'd like to know what oil I can use for the transmission. Is there something better than the original OEM type that is still available?


Post# 992408 , Reply# 65   4/28/2018 at 19:00 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

Another excellent tutorial on rebuilding a Maytag by Brian:



CLICK HERE TO GO TO Ultramatic's LINK

Post# 992539 , Reply# 66   4/29/2018 at 20:17 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

There may be an issue with obtaining 220V service for the dryer. Currently I can get 220V service for the thru the wall air conditioner. I was planning of using that connection for the dryer. However, after some investigating, the gauge of the wire used will not support the amps needed to run the dryer. If I remember correctly you'd need 12 gauge minimum to run a dryer. So I have two options, 1) The electrician does a whole new run from the kitchen to the breaker box in the hallway (an expensive proposition), or 2) I purchase one of these plug in step up voltage converters (see link).



CLICK HERE TO GO TO Ultramatic's LINK

Post# 992542 , Reply# 67   4/29/2018 at 21:22 by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
if memory serves....

dryers usually needed 10/3 wire...and a double 30 amp circuit breaker...

can smaller be used?


Post# 992545 , Reply# 68   4/29/2018 at 22:15 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Thanks Martin!

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

I am reposting past images that were erased:

 

Reply#1 DE806:

 

A lot of fabric residue around the drum axle.

 

 

 


  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 2         View Full Size


This post was last edited 04/29/2018 at 22:39
Post# 992546 , Reply# 69   4/29/2018 at 22:20 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Reply#2 DE806

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 


  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 2         View Full Size


This post was last edited 04/29/2018 at 22:38
Post# 992549 , Reply# 70   4/29/2018 at 22:22 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Reply#3 DE806

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

 


  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 2         View Full Size


This post was last edited 04/29/2018 at 22:37
Post# 992550 , Reply# 71   4/29/2018 at 22:22 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Reply#6 A806

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

Front cabinet panel, before:


  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 3         View Full Size
Post# 992551 , Reply# 72   4/29/2018 at 22:30 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Post #7 A806

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

After:


  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 3         View Full Size
Post# 992553 , Reply# 73   4/29/2018 at 22:33 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Reply#8 A806

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

New water inlet valve (Whirlpool 285805).


  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 2         View Full Size
Post# 992555 , Reply# 74   4/29/2018 at 22:34 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Reply#11 A806

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

 

Cob webs give me the heebie- jeebies.

 

 


  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 3         View Full Size
Post# 992602 , Reply# 75   4/30/2018 at 07:39 by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
Running A 240 Volt Dryer

combo52's profile picture

You generality need a 30 amp 10 ga. copper line to do this.

 

Ist question what is the circuit amps and wire ga. for the A/C circuit ?

 

2nd question, do you have 208 or 240 volts in your apartment [ there is no such thing as 220 in the US any longer ]

 

You can run this dryer off a 20 amp 208-240 volt line but you would have to install a smaller heater to do so., but this is why you need to know your buildings voltage. When I restored the Maytag DE750 we have at the museum I adjusted the heating element so the dryer would perform exactly as MT intended on our warehouses voltage of 208. Other than running the dryer off the A/C line you are left with running a new circuit from the box or getting a gas dryer [ generally the best option if you have natural gas available ]

 

John L.


Post# 992605 , Reply# 76   4/30/2018 at 09:03 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

Hi John, this building was built in 1964. I'm pretty sure the voltage for the living room AC is 208. The wires are too thin. Nothing like the gauge you"d see for a stove or a dryer. 


Post# 992622 , Reply# 77   4/30/2018 at 10:45 by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        

combo52's profile picture
Hi Louie, so what is the amp rating for the living room A/C outlet ?, As I mentioned you could use a long extension cord of proper specs to run this dryer safely, but the heating element would have to be replaced with a lower wattage element so as not to overload the wiring and breaker.

John L.


Post# 992644 , Reply# 78   4/30/2018 at 14:59 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

Hi John. I have no idea what the amp rating is for the outlet. It looks like this one:

 

220 Volt Plug Receptacles Configurations - AskmeDIY

Perhaps 20 amps?

 

This is what I was planning to put for the dryer:

 

 


  View Full Size
Post# 992658 , Reply# 79   4/30/2018 at 17:04 by Combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        

combo52's profile picture
Hi Louis, what does the circuit breaker for the air conditioner outlet say on it thatíll tell you what the amps for that circuit are the outlet is capable of 20 A but it might only be on a 15 amp breaker thatís the question what our is available at that outlet.

Post# 992720 , Reply# 80   5/1/2018 at 10:43 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

Hi John, it's 20 amps.


  View Full Size
Post# 992722 , Reply# 81   5/1/2018 at 10:45 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
A806

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

 

The 50HZ pulley has arrived. Thanks to John (Combo52) and Martin (Yogitunes).


  View Full Size
Post# 992766 , Reply# 82   5/1/2018 at 19:19 by good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        
it's 20 amps.

Those look like Federal Stab-Loc breakers, might want to do a Google search.

I believe they are known for failing to trip sometimes in overload situations.


Post# 993119 , Reply# 83   5/4/2018 at 23:08 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

They've never failed since 1964. Trust me, I've tripped most of them many times...LOL!


Post# 993123 , Reply# 84   5/5/2018 at 00:04 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
DE806

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

The duct to wall connector has been installed. Now I will be able easily roll the dryer to clean underneath.


  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 2         View Full Size
Post# 1001460 , Reply# 85   7/25/2018 at 23:19 by stricklybojack (San Diego, CA)        

stricklybojack's profile picture
.
Any updates?


Post# 1001466 , Reply# 86   7/26/2018 at 03:29 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

Placed on hold until I finish the laundry closet. I've got a case of "the might as well's". Right now I'm doing work on the kitchen, plastering, painting and a new floor. It's amazing how it all snowballs.





Forum Index:       Other Forums:                      



Comes to the Rescue!

The Discuss-o-Mat has stopped, buzzer is sounding!!!
If you would like to reply to this thread please log-in...

Discuss-O-MAT Log-In



New Members
Click Here To Sign Up.



                     


automaticwasher.org home
Discuss-o-Mat Forums
Vintage Brochures, Service and Owners Manuals
Fun Vintage Washer Ephemera
See It Wash!
Video Downloads
Audio Downloads
Picture of the Day
Patent of the Day
Photos of our Collections
The Old Aberdeen Farm
Vintage Service Manuals
Vintage washer/dryer/dishwasher to sell?
Technical/service questions?
Looking for Parts?
Website related questions?
Digital Millennium Copyright Act Policy
Our Privacy Policy