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Thread Number: 75454
/ Tag: Vintage Dryers
50's Frigidaire Imperial Filtrator |
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Post# 992983 5/3/2018 at 16:48 (2,176 days old) by akronman  (Akron/Cleveland Ohio) |
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The estate sale folks said it's not up to them to try it, and the fuse had been turned off. But they priced it right and now it's in my garage.
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Post# 992986 , Reply# 1 5/3/2018 at 16:54 (2,176 days old) by appnut (TX) |
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Post# 993031 , Reply# 2 5/4/2018 at 05:32 (2,175 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio) |
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model DV-65
View Full Size
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Post# 993033 , Reply# 3 5/4/2018 at 05:44 (2,175 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD) |
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CONGRATULATIONS! | ||
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Post# 993057 , Reply# 4 5/4/2018 at 09:49 (2,175 days old) by turquoisedude (.) |
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Post# 993111 , Reply# 5 5/4/2018 at 21:05 (2,175 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio) |
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no sign of mice turds
but a hell of a mess inside, tons of lint trapped up near the thermostat. And check out pic#3, a limit switch on travel of the idler pulley? What?
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Post# 993145 , Reply# 6 5/5/2018 at 08:32 (2,174 days old) by Eronie (Flushing Michigan) |
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I think if the belt breaks it cuts off the heat. | ||
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Post# 993155 , Reply# 7 5/5/2018 at 10:02 (2,174 days old) by turquoisedude (.) |
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| Post# 993180 , Reply# 8 5/5/2018 at 15:06 (2,174 days old) by wft2800 (Leatherhead, Surrey) | ||
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What is it that makes the Filtrators so good at getting towels fluffy? Perforated drum surface? | ||
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Post# 993201 , Reply# 9 5/5/2018 at 16:45 (2,174 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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The Idler pulley switch turns off the motor if a belt breaks, and the motors centrifugal Sw turns off the dryers heating elements, because of the exposed intense radiant heat from the elements on these dryers it could be a fire hazard if the elements were on without the drum turning.
Condenser dryers can produce softer clothing because of the damp steamy drying conditions in the dryer. | ||
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Post# 993202 , Reply# 10 5/5/2018 at 16:45 (2,174 days old) by appnut (TX) |
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Post# 993243 , Reply# 11 5/5/2018 at 23:31 (2,173 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Post# 993290 , Reply# 12 5/6/2018 at 13:03 (2,173 days old) by appnut (TX) |
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Post# 993291 , Reply# 13 5/6/2018 at 13:24 (2,173 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio) |
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Dis-assembly, and lint everywhere
From my reading so far, these dryers need excellent gaskets, and it looks like 63 years of lint escaped past every gasket around.
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Post# 993292 , Reply# 14 5/6/2018 at 13:28 (2,173 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio) |
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and rust
it looks like moist lint has corroded the %^&* out of both the thermo and the drip pan, no fun.
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| Post# 993310 , Reply# 15 5/6/2018 at 15:46 (2,173 days old) by wft2800 (Leatherhead, Surrey) | ||
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That simple? So is there anything to choose between solid/perforated drums? | ||
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Post# 993408 , Reply# 16 5/7/2018 at 11:51 (2,172 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio) |
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Filtrator experts!!
As you can see, I have a ways to go with testing the heaters and motors, etc, but a few things already worry me:
Thermostats and safety limits: I see one eprating/running thermo, it's a capillary tube that is part of the temp switch, similar to stoves. Then there's the high-limit rusted out thermo on the back of the interior, a few inches below the heater box. Picture above with rust-through, reply #14. The 1952 manuals list it as 239F, and I'll replace it as I start ordering/finding/cleaning/painting. Is that all? Shouldn't I likely wire in another one somewhere? IT just doesn't seem like enough. Maybe a somewhat lower temp one located in a new hole I'll drill through one of the 2 huge baffles that sit immediately below the drum? But I have a ways to go before I get there--True. | ||
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Post# 993869 , Reply# 17 5/11/2018 at 12:27 (2,168 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers) |
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Those dryers  | ||
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Post# 993870 , Reply# 18 5/11/2018 at 12:31 (2,168 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers) |
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Well if the temp control is working | ||
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Post# 993876 , Reply# 19 5/11/2018 at 12:58 (2,168 days old) by RevvinKevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land) |
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Rust in the drip pan
Awesome dryer, CONGRATS on getting it!
I learned you must empty water from the drip pan after each load or when you're finished using it for a while, otherwise it will start to rust. Obviously that one had water sitting in it for a while.
The previous owner of my dryer, showed me that "every so often" (5 - 10 - 20 loads??) you need to insert a long, narrow flexible handle brush through the condenser opening (condenser removed), and "sweep" around to remove any accumulated lint from between the inner & outer drums.
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Post# 993889 , Reply# 20 5/11/2018 at 15:47 (2,168 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio) |
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Thank you for input
This will be a decent amount of work, I'll keep you posted on progress. It's almost entirely dis-assembled, just down to the few screws I need to drill out.
Next is testing the heater box and motor before starting re-assembly. And I threw out ALL insulation, it'll be new stuff for the re-assembly. Thanks--More later, Mark | ||
| Post# 993983 , Reply# 21 5/12/2018 at 12:53 (2,167 days old) by wft2800 (Leatherhead, Surrey) | ||
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I'm guessing the old insulation is asbestos... | ||
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Post# 993988 , Reply# 22 5/12/2018 at 13:30 (2,167 days old) by lakewebsterkid (Dayton, Ohio) |
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akronman How upset would you be if I showed up with a wet load of towels?! I am very envious. You have an incredible find there! I am glad the machine went to someone who will provide it with the proper home it deserves! Keep us updated! | ||
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Post# 994021 , Reply# 24 5/12/2018 at 19:04 (2,167 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio) |
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Tom
Thank you for the advice, I will need it soon. Right now I am still dis-assembling the ENTIRE dryer.
The heater works for sure, proven an hour ago. Next is motor testing. Also the thermostat is taken entirely apart to sand the contacts. Again, THANK YOU. This is cool as hell, but it's certainly not a one-weekend fix-it chore. I will be asking more soon---- Thanks Mark | ||
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