Thread Number: 75454  /  Tag: Vintage Dryers
50's Frigidaire Imperial Filtrator
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Post# 992983   5/3/2018 at 16:48 by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        

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The estate sale folks said it's not up to them to try it, and the fuse had been turned off. But they priced it right and now it's in my garage.

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Post# 992986 , Reply# 1   5/3/2018 at 16:54 by appnut (TX)        

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Looks nice & clean.  A terrific looking 1955 model.  Congratulations.  Now you'll have fluffy, soft towels next winter with a nice fragrance in your basement when you dry them. 


Post# 993031 , Reply# 2   5/4/2018 at 05:32 by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
model DV-65

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Post# 993033 , Reply# 3   5/4/2018 at 05:44 by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

CONGRATULATIONS!


Post# 993057 , Reply# 4   5/4/2018 at 09:49 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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Wow! Nice save, Mark! Filtrator drying rules!!  No, I'm not biased... LOL 


Post# 993111 , Reply# 5   5/4/2018 at 21:05 by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
no sign of mice turds

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but a hell of a mess inside, tons of lint trapped up near the thermostat. And check out pic#3, a limit switch on travel of the idler pulley? What?



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Post# 993145 , Reply# 6   5/5/2018 at 08:32 by Eronie (Flushing Michigan)        

I think if the belt breaks it cuts off the heat.

Post# 993155 , Reply# 7   5/5/2018 at 10:02 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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Yep, that's it exactly. This can also prevent the dryer from running if it is stuck or out of position. I had that issue with my 51 Filtrator.


Post# 993180 , Reply# 8   5/5/2018 at 15:06 by wft2800 (Leatherhead, Surrey)        

What is it that makes the Filtrators so good at getting towels fluffy? Perforated drum surface?

Post# 993201 , Reply# 9   5/5/2018 at 16:45 by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        

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The Idler pulley switch turns off the motor if a belt breaks, and the motors centrifugal Sw turns off the dryers heating elements, because of the exposed intense radiant heat from the elements on these dryers it could be a fire hazard if the elements were on without the drum turning.

Condenser dryers can produce softer clothing because of the damp steamy drying conditions in the dryer.


Post# 993202 , Reply# 10   5/5/2018 at 16:45 by appnut (TX)        

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No, this being a ventless condenser dryer is what makes towels fluffy and soft. 


Post# 993243 , Reply# 11   5/5/2018 at 23:31 by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        

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Hi Bob, All condenser dryers are vent-less and because of the steamy drying condition and the fact that they don't over dry clothes as easily as faster and more efficient vented dryers is why they usually produce softer clothing.

 

John L.


Post# 993290 , Reply# 12   5/6/2018 at 13:03 by appnut (TX)        

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John, thank you for putting in to words what I knew but couldn't verbalize appropriately the aspects of condenser dryers.  Frigidaire Filtrators are the only condenser dryers I've ever used. 


Post# 993291 , Reply# 13   5/6/2018 at 13:24 by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Dis-assembly, and lint everywhere

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From my reading so far, these dryers need excellent gaskets, and it looks like 63 years of lint escaped past every gasket around.

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Post# 993292 , Reply# 14   5/6/2018 at 13:28 by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
and rust

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it looks like moist lint has corroded the %^&* out of both the thermo and the drip pan, no fun.

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Post# 993310 , Reply# 15   5/6/2018 at 15:46 by wft2800 (Leatherhead, Surrey)        

That simple? So is there anything to choose between solid/perforated drums?

Post# 993408 , Reply# 16   5/7/2018 at 11:51 by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Filtrator experts!!

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As you can see, I have a ways to go with testing the heaters and motors, etc, but a few things already worry me:

Thermostats and safety limits: I see one eprating/running thermo, it's a capillary tube that is part of the temp switch, similar to stoves. Then there's the high-limit rusted out thermo on the back of the interior, a few inches below the heater box.
Picture above with rust-through, reply #14. The 1952 manuals list it as 239F, and I'll replace it as I start ordering/finding/cleaning/painting.
Is that all? Shouldn't I likely wire in another one somewhere? IT just doesn't seem like enough. Maybe a somewhat lower temp one located in a new hole I'll drill through one of the 2 huge baffles that sit immediately below the drum?

But I have a ways to go before I get there--True.


Post# 993869 , Reply# 17   5/11/2018 at 12:27 by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
Those dryers

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Are also great on wool socks! You under set it and they never felt !!!


Post# 993870 , Reply# 18   5/11/2018 at 12:31 by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
Well if the temp control is working

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You wont need another thermostat. Your right it is the same as a stove, and that rust is pretty standard.
Best thing for it is “Extend” by Permatex


Post# 993876 , Reply# 19   5/11/2018 at 12:58 by RevvinKevin (So. Cal.)        
Rust in the drip pan

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Awesome dryer, CONGRATS on getting it! 

 

I learned you must empty water from the drip pan after each load or when you're finished using it for a while, otherwise it will start to rust.  Obviously that one had water sitting in it for a while.

 

The previous owner of my dryer, showed me that "every so often" (5 - 10 - 20 loads??) you need to insert a long, narrow flexible handle brush through the condenser opening (condenser removed), and "sweep" around to remove any accumulated lint from between the inner & outer drums.

 

  


Post# 993889 , Reply# 20   5/11/2018 at 15:47 by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Thank you for input

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This will be a decent amount of work, I'll keep you posted on progress. It's almost entirely dis-assembled, just down to the few screws I need to drill out.
Next is testing the heater box and motor before starting re-assembly. And I threw out ALL insulation, it'll be new stuff for the re-assembly.
Thanks--More later,
Mark


Post# 993983 , Reply# 21   5/12/2018 at 12:53 by wft2800 (Leatherhead, Surrey)        

I'm guessing the old insulation is asbestos...

Post# 993988 , Reply# 22   5/12/2018 at 13:30 by lakewebsterkid (Dayton, Ohio)        
akronman

How upset would you be if I showed up with a wet load of towels?! I am very envious. You have an incredible find there! I am glad the machine went to someone who will provide it with the proper home it deserves! Keep us updated!

Post# 994010 , Reply# 23   5/12/2018 at 17:01 by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

There is no asbestos that we have ever found in one of these dryers. It is all fiberglass and foil faced fiberglass like above the heater box and under the top. If the water pan has rusted through, John showed me how easily that is fixed; you simply cut a piece of aluminum to fit in the bottom of the pan and then seal it into place around the edges with silicone seal. There are old seals made out of permagum that will have dried out and should be removed and replaced with silicone seal.

Those rollers below the door opening will need very important maintenance before each drying season because if they do not turn freely, the rubber tires will come off and there is no replacing them. You have to use a 7/16 inch box wrench to hold the nut under the porcelain bracket while turning the screw. When you remove the roller, there is a bronze bearing in the center of it which has to be removed and cleaned as does the inside bearing surface of the wheel. Rust Buster does a good job of removing the varnish from the oxidized lubricant from all surfaces. After a thorough cleaning, turbine oil is best for saturating the sintered bronze bearing surfaces although maybe Silicone grease which can take the heat would work now. When you put the rollers back together, you will need to remount them. It is easiest if you put a small piece of tape over one side of the 7/16 wrench. Place the nut on the tape and put the wrench under the bracket that holds the roller then you can screw the screw through the roller bearing and into the nut without the nut falling into an area where it is hard as hell to retrieve.

Be very careful when reinstalling the door plug because the door switch is mounted IN FRONT of the plug on the right so slide the plug into place BEHIND the door switch before pushing the left side into place and installing the 4 screws.


Post# 994021 , Reply# 24   5/12/2018 at 19:04 by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Tom

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Thank you for the advice, I will need it soon. Right now I am still dis-assembling the ENTIRE dryer.

The heater works for sure, proven an hour ago. Next is motor testing. Also the thermostat is taken entirely apart to sand the contacts.

Again, THANK YOU. This is cool as hell, but it's certainly not a one-weekend fix-it chore. I will be asking more soon----
Thanks
Mark





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