Thread Number: 75473  /  Tag: Modern Dishwashers
Miele G 5605 SCU Dishwasher
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Post# 993078   5/4/2018 at 14:12 by RP2813 (The Big Blue Bubble)        

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Can anyone advise on how old this machine would be?  I know it's newer than mine.


A friend really liked the top tier cutlery rack on my machine and asked if I'd be taking it with me to the new house (I absolutely will).  Today I found the subject dishwasher at the ReStore and it's in like-new condition.  It has more features than mine, with water softener, intense bottom rack wash, a water softener and pop-open door after drying is complete.


I think she'd really like it, and it's right up her OCD alley.  I'm pretty sure her current Bosch is much older than this Miele, but I'd still like to know its approximate date of manufacture. 


Thanks for any helpful information.

Post# 993079 , Reply# 1   5/4/2018 at 14:17 by henene4 (Germany)        

Not an expert, but these were going the 2000s I think... But that basic machine design ran for a long tine.

If you can check the model number tag and write down all the numbers or just post a readablepictur here, there is a manufacturid date on there.

Post# 993082 , Reply# 2   5/4/2018 at 14:43 by RP2813 (The Big Blue Bubble)        

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Thanks.  I'm waiting to hear from her if she's interested in it or not.  If she is, I'll go back and get the info off the sticker.  I had my phone with me, but didn't think to take a picture.  I'm new to the smart phone scene . . .

Post# 993084 , Reply# 3   5/4/2018 at 14:47 by RP2813 (The Big Blue Bubble)        

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OK, never mind.  She's going to stick with her Bosch.  I guess she didn't like the cutlery rack that much after all.

Post# 993181 , Reply# 4   5/5/2018 at 15:15 by RP2813 (The Big Blue Bubble)        

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After giving it some thought, I might go grab the machine for myself.  It seems to offer more cycle options than the one I currently have and love.  If it has everything it should for installation, I can pull the Bosch out of the new house and slap this "new" Miele in there, and keep my current machine for a back-up. 


It has been there since March, but a clerk told me they don't ever discount appliances regardless of how long they've been there.  Pretty stupid, but this particular ReStore has always impressed me as being very tight-ass with their pricing policies.  Still, $300 isn't bad for a machine that cost $2,200 new.

Post# 993185 , Reply# 5   5/5/2018 at 15:37 by aamassther (Hendersonville, NC )        

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I would grab it! Thatís a near TOL from 6 or 7 years ago. From when the ďFuturaĒ moniker were first placed on their machines. We have a G2832- La Perla II, that was a floor model bought in 2011, which is the previous generation to the 5xxx series.

Post# 993189 , Reply# 6   5/5/2018 at 15:54 by RP2813 (The Big Blue Bubble)        

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Todd, thanks for the additional information! 


I'll head over there on Tuesday and if the supply line is still on the machine, I'll snag it.  It's under an upper rack that has cooktops, hoods, and microwaves on it, so I wasn't able to see the back side.




I just pulled up an installation video and it appears that by the time this model was in production, Miele had changed their supply lines so as to have that blocky solenoid valve assembly integrated under the machine, so I won't panic if I don't see that component.

Post# 993198 , Reply# 7   5/5/2018 at 16:39 by aamassther (Hendersonville, NC )        

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ďI just pulled up an installation video and it appears that by the time this model was in production, Miele had changed their supply lines so as to have that blocky solenoid valve assembly integrated under the machine, so I won't panic if I don't see that component.Ē
To me, thatís worth the price of the machine right there. I had to cut a big hole in the cabinet just to get the solenoid assy under the sink. Cosmetic, but still.
I believe this is also when they changed the lower rack configuration from big plates on the left side to multiple positions across the back. Seemingly, itís makes racking more functional

Post# 993251 , Reply# 8   5/6/2018 at 02:28 by RP2813 (The Big Blue Bubble)        

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Yes, the front sets of tines fold flat.  It might take some getting used to, but I can imagine it's more functional as Miele claims.  The tines are close together and sometimes with certain items it would be easier if there were no tines preventing placement.


The machine has been there since 3/22.  Odds favor it having survived another Saturday, so I'm hoping it won't be gone when I go back on Tuesday.

Post# 993313 , Reply# 9   5/6/2018 at 16:02 by Brisnat81 (Brisbane Australia)        

If the solenoid has been moved under the machine, then thatís a US only thing.

My 5000 and 6000 series both still have the solenoid on the end of the hose. If the solenoid is in the base then the water protection system is unable to work.

The idea is that if the hose starts leaking the water is channeled into the base of the dishwasher and then the float turns the solenoid off.

Post# 993333 , Reply# 10   5/6/2018 at 19:55 by RP2813 (The Big Blue Bubble)        

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As stated further up, I haven't yet examined the back of the machine.  It was a Miele site for this model that had a drawing of the supply line and showed the solenoid inside the machine's frame. 


Still, even with the unit relocated, wouldn't it behave the same?  If it was a bad inlet valve allowing water to pass through, then wouldn't the water still make it into the tub and trip the float? 


If the supply hose itself were to spring a leak between the supply valve and the solenoid unit, I would think that could be replaced without much trouble since it probably has standard fittings on both ends.


If I'm not understanding this correctly, please set me straight (gasp).

Post# 993357 , Reply# 11   5/7/2018 at 01:48 by Brisnat81 (Brisbane Australia)        

The supply hose is inside the outer tube. The solenoid is screwed to the tap.

Scenario One
The solenoid is open and the hose leaks, the outer plastic tube channels the water into the base of the dishwasher rather than the cupboard. When the water level rises, the float is triggered and the solenoid closes and the water stops. Theoretically before any gets on the floor.

If the solenoid is in the base of the machine, the hose bursts, thereís nothing the dishwasher can do about it, water just ends up in the cupboard and the dishwasher doesnít know whatís happening.

The solenoid also keeps all the pressure in the tap so the hose isnít under pressure when the dishwasher isnt running. If itís under the machine, the hose stays pressurized.

Anytime Iíve seen a Miele without the waterproof system, it just is either a plastic inlet hose or a steel braided inlet hose.

Thatís what makes the difference



Post# 993358 , Reply# 12   5/7/2018 at 02:04 by RP2813 (The Big Blue Bubble)        
Thanks Nathan

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That's similar to what I was thinking.


What I noticed about the unit inside the framework is that it was drawn to indicate it's positioned in a horizontal manner.  I was advised that the solenoid on my current Miele, which does attach to the supply valve, needed to be positioned vertically or it would likely fail (this information came from someone who found out the hard way).   I modified the valve fitting to allow vertical positioning.


It seems strange that they'd change their leak management system to render the better part of the water supply line vulnerable, but I've never had a supply line for any dishwasher leak yet, so I'll make sure to install a top quality one if the machine doesn't already have one on it.

Post# 993575 , Reply# 13   5/9/2018 at 02:15 by RP2813 (The Big Blue Bubble)        
It's Mine Now!

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I got the machine today and hooked it up to power and hot water on the patio for testing. 


I selected the "Normal" cycle and found myself waiting and waiting for it to purge after the initial prewash/rinse fill.  Finally I opened the door and saw the detergent dispenser had popped.  I checked the owner's manual I downloaded and got my answer.  There is no prewash/rinse on the normal setting with this machine.  It seems odd, but that's the design.


Anyway, it was counting down on the display, starting with a 2:45 cycle time, but apparently there's a soil sensor of some type on this machine, and since it was empty, the cycle time displayed decreased fairly rapidly.  I think it was done in less than 90 minutes.


I'll probably have to choose pots & pans if I want a pre-wash or rinse.  Not a big deal. 


I'll also need to investigate how hard the water is here.  I get sparkling glassware from my G2500 (I think that's the model number) without any softener, so I may not need to bother with the softener feature unless it truly makes a big difference in results.


I do like the look of this machine better than my current one, and also like the display.  I'll have to investigate the "Intensive" bottom rack wash and "Turbo" options (I like that "Turbo" shortens the cycle time, as that could come in handy once in a while).


Is there anything else I should check?  I'm going to assume that since it behaved as it should have on "Normal," it will do likewise for any other cycle options selected. 


Also, are the racks interchangeable with slightly older models?  Just in case I end up not liking the newer type?  Mainly the bottom rack, as its configuration is radically different from my current machine.


Other than that, now it's about extracting the Bosch at the new house and installing this Miele.  I downloaded the installation instructions but they're poorly presented.  I just need to see how it gets fastened into place.  I don't know if it's the same as my current Miele in that regard, but will investigate.

Post# 993576 , Reply# 14   5/9/2018 at 02:25 by henene4 (Germany)        
Cycles, softner and age

The Normal cycle runs a prerinse as required, aka the soilsensor decides wheather to carry the water over from the prerinse into the mainwash or if it needs changing.
Normal does at least a wash, a rinse and a final rinse.
Thus, yes, your machine did what it was supposed to do.

Pots&Pans is not sensor guided and runs 2 prerinses, one warm, a stepped mainwash (first lower temp for enzyme activity, then high temp to remove fats and burned in soil). 2 post rinses, a final rinse, dry.

Turbo shortens cycle phases and increaes spray pressure.
Lower Inetnsive raises wash time and pressure for the lower basket.

You should programm the softner to your water hardness and should use salt to keep the softner in working condition.
If you don't want to use it, follow the manuals recomendations on the setting for that.
Keep in mind that if you do use it you need verry little detergent.

Now, on the age: There is a production date on the service tag. Care to share that so that we can exactly date the machine?

Post# 993580 , Reply# 15   5/9/2018 at 04:46 by Brisnat81 (Brisbane Australia)        

Ralph, thatís great news. Iíd persist with the new racks, when I first got the 5000 series which replaced the 2000 series and the older racks, I hated the new ones. Once I got used to them however they are significantly more flexible and handles awkward items well.

The huge improvement compared to the earlier one is that you can load 2 rows of plates back to front so it holds a lot more dinner plates compared to the earlier racks.

Excuse that itís dirty, but the picture shows how easy it is to load 11Ē plates side by side. You canít quite do that with the earlier models.

  View Full Size
Post# 993583 , Reply# 16   5/9/2018 at 05:56 by vacerator (Macomb, Michigan)        
I love your china.

Is it Spode?

Post# 993585 , Reply# 17   5/9/2018 at 06:11 by Brisnat81 (Brisbane Australia)        

Itís modern Johnson Brothers. The pattern is Devon Cottage. Weíve had it about 5 years now.

Post# 993637 , Reply# 18   5/9/2018 at 16:13 by RP2813 (The Big Blue Bubble)        

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Nathan, thanks for the testimonial on the racks.  I noticed the two front folding sets of tines had signs of forceful entry between some of them, so I straightened everything out where it was needed.  I do like the versatility of the fold-down arrangement.


Henrik, thanks for confirming the machine is performing as it should.  I only found one tag, which was a sticker on the side of the door.  It has two numbers on it.  This one is located directly above the bar code:  61/101713332.  Another one appears by itself elsewhere on the sticker:  178878.


If these are not the numbers you need, can you advise on where I would find the service tag?




Post# 993645 , Reply# 19   5/9/2018 at 16:34 by appnut (TX)        

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Ralph, congratulations on landing another Miele.  It sounds like an extremely nice one.  Plates loaded like that, front to back, reminds me of Spin-tube dishwashers. 

Post# 993648 , Reply# 20   5/9/2018 at 16:46 by RP2813 (The Big Blue Bubble)        

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Thanks Bob!  I think it will blend into the new kitchen nicely.  My existing Miele would have looked fine, but since the cook top and oven are ultra high end, I might as well have a compatible Miele model in there too.  Plus, I really like the readout that shows where it's at in the cycle and how much time remains.


I'm going to hang onto my current machine.  It has been a stellar performer for the past five years, and even longer than that if you add in wherever it lived before it landed at the ReStore.  It will be my back-up if it ever becomes necessary.


I guess this means my search for a vintage KA version of an UltraWash machine to keep as a back-up is on indefinite hold.

Post# 993650 , Reply# 21   5/9/2018 at 17:02 by henene4 (Germany)        
I'm verry sorry

Those are the correct numbers but I lost the instructions on how to get an estimated production time :/ I saved them in a folder with some other appliance stuff but can't find them...
It was a list of which numbers ran in which timeframe (so not exact but pretty ok).

Only way to know for sure now (but probably on the day exact) would be to call Miele and ask if they can help out. They usually do so in a matter of seconds.

Really sorry I caused you hazzle and can't deliver now. Hope it wasn't to much of a bother...

Post# 993700 , Reply# 22   5/10/2018 at 00:56 by RP2813 (The Big Blue Bubble)        

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Henrik, no worries.  I'm OK with knowing it's newer than the one I have now.


It's quieter in at least one aspect.  My current machine makes a loud "bzzzzt" sound when switching from one function to another, like from fill to wash, or from wash to drain.  The G 5605 just makes a barely audible click.

Post# 993904 , Reply# 23   5/11/2018 at 19:11 by RP2813 (The Big Blue Bubble)        
Parts Question

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One thing I've discovered is the brackets that accept the screws to attach the kick plate have been either bent or broken.  Probably by sloppy removal and/or transport to the ReStore.  They appear to be made of pot metal or something equally peculiar for such an application.


Would replacement brackets be available or do I need to harvest the ones from my older Miele, assuming they're the same?  I still have to determine how to extract the portions that remained on the machine and how the replacements would be installed.


Any advice would be appreciated.  I'd like to install this machine at the new house sooner rather than later as it's taking up space here, but I know I'll have to tilt it back in order to get at the remains of the brackets and to install the new ones.

Post# 993914 , Reply# 24   5/11/2018 at 20:37 by Brisnat81 (Brisbane Australia)        

Hey Ralph

When I uninstalled my 2000 series, I broke one because I didnít take the kick panel off before trying to move it. From memory it was about $20aud from Miele for a replacement.

They should be able to easily sell you a set



Post# 993934 , Reply# 25   5/12/2018 at 00:27 by RP2813 (The Big Blue Bubble)        

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Thanks Nathan.


I'll check with a local Miele authorized parts dealer for those two brackets.  I hope they come with instructions on how to remove what's left of the old ones if I don't find any obvious way to do it when I take a look underneath the machine.



Post# 993994 , Reply# 26   5/12/2018 at 14:16 by RP2813 (The Big Blue Bubble)        

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I did some more research and found that the toothy brackets are adjustable and have tabs near the mounting holes that facilitate sliding them inward or outward to make the kick plate flush with adjacent cabinetry.  I'll see if that's the case on my machine.


Also, I don't see any installation brackets to secure the whole machine in its opening.  On my older Miele, screws went through holes on either side of the machine near the top.  This newer model has two holes in the frame that seem to indicate a more standard method of securing the machine with screws into the underside of the counter.  Are screws through these holes all that's necessary?

Post# 994018 , Reply# 27   5/12/2018 at 18:39 by Brisnat81 (Brisbane Australia)        

Hey Ralph

Youíre right on the toothed slides. They slip into those holes and move back and forth. In theory you could just push the broken off part into the machine, otherwise use a pair of pliers and pull it out.

Mine have always just been screwed in via the 4 screw holes on the left and right hand sides of the door. Once itís adjusted properly in the opening just screw it in.

The installation pictogram should be downloadable from Miele.



Post# 994067 , Reply# 28   5/13/2018 at 12:14 by RP2813 (The Big Blue Bubble)        

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Thanks again Nathan.


I'll do some checking during this upcoming week to find a source for the mounting brackets.  I've found the kick plate (which I don't need) on line, but not the brackets.


Good to know that securing the machine in its enclosure is accomplished the same way as with my current machine.

Post# 995303 , Reply# 29   5/26/2018 at 23:33 by RP2813 (The Big Blue Bubble)        

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The machine has been installed in the new house.  I took the kick plate off the Miele in our old kitchen and harvested the brackets from it.  At the new house, when I pushed the remnants of the old brackets further in, they hit something and now I can't get at them anymore from the front to pull them out instead.


I see some screws along the bottom of the machine but don't know if those will allow me access to where the broken sections of teeth are.  I really don't want to have to pull the machine out in order to extract the bracket pieces.


Are there instructions on how to do this anywhere on line?  I haven't found much on line that even mentions the brackets.

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