Thread Number: 75614  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Progress report on the 57 GE washer
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Post# 994270   5/15/2018 at 12:47 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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I am staying true to my pledge.... to work on the '57 GE washer, that is!


After spending the winter out in the garage, I figured the first thing to try would be the motor.  Recall that I  A: had a big screaming beeyach of a time getting that motor out but B: I did manage to repair the starting switch. 


My motor repair skills must be improving... 


Post# 994273 , Reply# 1   5/15/2018 at 12:52 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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I wanted to try a water test, but the 'nag centre' of my addled brain said "don't".  I yielded to the nag and tried to see if I could remove the tub.

I did and without wrecking the filter-flo hose or the suds return hose.  A miracle!!

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Post# 994274 , Reply# 2   5/15/2018 at 12:55 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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My nag centre was right... the transmission boot was split (quite probably from a 7-hour shake session moving the washer on its side...).

So out it went!

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Post# 994276 , Reply# 3   5/15/2018 at 12:59 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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I have been prepping for this restoration for years and I am glad I had the good sense to have gotten a new boot!! This one was gotten in 2013 at Modern Parts...

Installation went just fine!

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Post# 994277 , Reply# 4   5/15/2018 at 13:01 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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I was feeling courageous so I re-installed the pump and ran water into tub...

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Post# 994278 , Reply# 5   5/15/2018 at 13:04 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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Well, the boot was good and leakproof but there was a drip around where the pump sits below the tub.  That wasn't completely unexpected, so off with the pump and off to dig for the silicone...

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Post# 994279 , Reply# 6   5/15/2018 at 13:08 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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While I had the pump out, the nag centre kicked in with a concern about the flapper valve inside the pump.

I need to pay more attention to this nag centre... the flapper valve was stuck and would not have directed water into the filter-flo return pipe.  That was cured with a brief soak in hot tap water.

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Post# 994280 , Reply# 7   5/15/2018 at 13:11 by Blackstone (Springfield, Massachusetts)        

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NOW I recognize this machine; on your Facebook post, I didn't see the insides. All looks familiar now.

Always was a dilemma with the metal clamps on the pump & motor--do I remove the screw and clamp completely, or just loosen it enough to slide off?

Post# 994281 , Reply# 8   5/15/2018 at 13:14 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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I re-installed the pump, with a coating of the old reliable blue RTV silicone on the gasket.  At this point I figured it would be wise to test the water inlet valve (yeah, I thinking of that BEFORE I reassembled the washer!!).  Well it checked out and should be fine when Maiden Wash Day rolls around.

I won't get back to the house in Ogden until Friday now but you can bet there will be another water test!!  Stay tuned ...

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Post# 994288 , Reply# 9   5/15/2018 at 14:00 by pulltostart (Mobile, AL)        

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Paul - so glad to see that this one FINALLY moved to the front of the line.  Keep up the good work and pictures!!!



Post# 994292 , Reply# 10   5/15/2018 at 14:24 by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)        

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You were smart to grab that boot, a must-have for those solid-tub GE's as they were quite different than the later boots.

Nice to see that washer getting a new lease on life, it's such a pretty GE design.

Post# 994293 , Reply# 11   5/15/2018 at 15:19 by potatochips (Nova Scotia)        

Nice job, Paul! Thanks for sharing. Cant wait to see the end result!

Post# 994297 , Reply# 12   5/15/2018 at 16:30 by peteski50 (New York)        
57 GE!

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Great job Paul - real nice machine!

Post# 994310 , Reply# 13   5/15/2018 at 18:32 by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        
Nemesis AND Hero

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You are an inspiration. Tell Hubby to build you another storehouse. These models were the beginning of the raised panel Filter-Flo's that lasted until 1963; were and are my favorites. The pink color is so GE and splendid and, as we both know, was lateraled over to the dishwashers for many years. The backsplash design on these units was clever and unique; leftovers were used up for a near-TOL model for the beginning of the 1958 line, but then disappeared. Aferim! Do you have the proper copper filter pan for this machine?

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Post# 994320 , Reply# 14   5/15/2018 at 19:56 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        
Copper filter pan

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Yes, I was thrilled to see it was still there when I first got the washer!  


And here's an oddity, perhaps because this is a "Canadian" model - the model tag identifies it as a WA857P, yet on the lid instructions the model is stated as WA855.  The model tag also has the CSA (Canada Standards Association - the equivalent of UL) but states the machine was born in Appliance Park, USA.  Go figure... 

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Post# 994324 , Reply# 15   5/15/2018 at 20:16 by pulltostart (Mobile, AL)        

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The WA850P was the "normal" model, WA855P was the suds return model.  Perhaps the "7" indicates it was built for export?



Post# 994352 , Reply# 16   5/16/2018 at 08:26 by appliguy (Oakton Va.)        

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Canada has a rule that whether the appliance is made in Canada or not, before it can be sold there the model has to be tested and certified by the CSA! PAT COFFEY

Post# 994354 , Reply# 17   5/16/2018 at 08:32 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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That could well be...  I've got a Frigidaire dishwasher (a '57 according to the US date charts, but seller had a bill of sale from '58) that was made in Dayton but had the CSA stamp. 


Not sure when, but GE (and Frigidaire among others) did start building appliances in Canada.  I'd have to guess in the early 60s - I remember that the fabled GE V12 set of my youth definitely said "Made in Canada, eh" on the model tag...   

Post# 994359 , Reply# 18   5/16/2018 at 09:51 by mickeyd (Hamburg NY)        

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After watching the movie right away, I thought, how is that Wizard Paul getting the GE to agitate without water? And then, OH MY, a suds. Have never had the GE suds experience. Is it as much fun as classic WP/KM--pump on full speed! Must be cool to see the suds coming from the top, huh?

Good luck, my friend, but you always manage regardless. Have a Turquoise surprise coming soon you'll enjoy!

Post# 994368 , Reply# 19   5/16/2018 at 12:02 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        
Agitation without water...

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It's not wizardry, honest!  GE solid tub machines from 1953 on had a 'water saver' button on the upper-end models - it simply bypassed the pressure pad at the bottom of the tub and started agitation.  Unlike the WP/KM/Inglis models with Suds-Savers, GE doesn't have a 'spot' on the timer where the agitator runs while the pump returns saved water to the tub. 


Why I know this was in place in '53 was because that's how I got that '53 of mine to agitate!   Actually, the switch on the '57 is a little sticky; it should be a momentary contact....  

Post# 994370 , Reply# 20   5/16/2018 at 12:08 by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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Super cool work Paul, very impressive! You'll love the '57 GE. That pump flapper was an issue for sure in that design. Can't wait to hear about its first wash in decades!

Working on my '58 GE I've learned a lot about the electric circuit of this machine, and it's quite complicated compared to most of the time, but it works well.

Post# 994383 , Reply# 21   5/16/2018 at 16:30 by appnut (TX)        

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Great work Paul!!  Proud of ya!!!

Post# 994749 , Reply# 22   5/20/2018 at 18:53 by lesto (Atlanta)        

This is so exciting. The 57 was such a unique and attractive model with the timer on the left. Can't wait to see pics and video of it's maiden wash!

Post# 994860 , Reply# 23   5/21/2018 at 21:25 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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It was a long weekend here in Canada and it was also the first time in three weeks that Hubby and I got to spend an entire weekend together. But I wasn't going to let that get in the way of the 57 GE washer restoration!!

So, the goal this weekend was to leak-proof the pump/tub area...

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Post# 994861 , Reply# 24   5/21/2018 at 21:28 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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I got it right this time. It 's holding vater!

In the 2nd picture, I wanted to see just how much water was needed to make the pressure pad switch click on. It's a lot! Oh, right, it's a GE...LOL 

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Post# 994862 , Reply# 25   5/21/2018 at 21:35 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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As the leaks were resolved, I figured this would be a good time to start prepping the cabinet for a new paint job.  There was a lot of grime on the cabinet from storage but also quite a few rust spots (the machine sat idle in a basement for 32 years).  Getting the trim plates off was a challenge but I did it!  The only paint that got applied today was a good coat of POR15 on the base.

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Post# 994863 , Reply# 26   5/21/2018 at 21:46 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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And just for the thrills of it, I thought I would investigate the suds valve assembly.  Full disclosure: I am most likely not going to put the suds saving system back into this machine initially. I already have 2 suds savers and only 1 washtub!  And restoring this GE system is going to need some creative and innovative thinking. Which means I am beat... lol

Well nonetheless I took the suds valve apart.  The word 'cruddified' is all I could think of ( if that is even a word).  Look at the stuff that was in there! Even the ubiquitous bobby pin...  Well at least I have a NOS gasket for the valve!

The plan for this coming weekend is to paint the cabinet.  But there is a washer rescue mission planned for this week also.  Such excitement!!

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Post# 994865 , Reply# 27   5/21/2018 at 22:12 by pulltostart (Mobile, AL)        

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Looking good!  Two comments about your progress - 


First, don't be so quick to discard that bobby pin.  It's vintage!


Second, the three black spots on the lower front of the cabinet - is that aluminum panel installed with adhesive?  Or a combination of mechanical fasteners and adhesive?



Post# 994892 , Reply# 28   5/22/2018 at 06:21 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        
Lower panel

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Lawrence,  it is held on with both mechanical fasteners and adhesive.  Those three black blobs remind me of the stuff used on the old asphalt floor tiles.  I'll guess that was a mid-production-run hack by GE to assuage complaints of the panel vibrating when the machine would spin...  I shall use the same technique on re-assembly!

Post# 994940 , Reply# 29   5/22/2018 at 13:48 by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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In the 2nd picture, I wanted to see just how much water was needed to make the pressure pad switch click on. It's a lot! Oh, right, it's a GE...LOL

LOL is right Paul. The service manual says to adjust the switch (I assume by bending the metal actuating arm, ironically they never tell you how to adjust it) so 4 to 6 gallons is in the outer tub before activation begins. I've found that about 2 gallons is more than enough to operate the filter-flo stream just fine, thank you. GE.

Post# 994985 , Reply# 30   5/23/2018 at 06:59 by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        
Solid tub FF's

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I should pay you for these lessons. I really should.tongue-out

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Post# 994986 , Reply# 31   5/23/2018 at 07:05 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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Ken, if you are keen, I'm planning on attacking the '53 GE this summer too.  It would be a reason to come back and visit.  Or another reason, perhaps.... 

Post# 995362 , Reply# 32   5/27/2018 at 17:07 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        
A trip to the beauty parlor for the 57 washer!

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Amazingly, I managed to mostly ignore the 'new' 58 Philco Bendix combo and continued to work on the 57 GE.  

This weekend was devoted to its beautification - which pretty much meant painting.  I think it went well!

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Post# 995363 , Reply# 33   5/27/2018 at 17:13 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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I almost made a big blunder... the housing for the control panel was not going to look nice on a freshly-painted body. So I repainted it, too!

Bonus - with the switch bank out, I was able to get the water saver switch to release as soon as one takes one's finger off.  That's what the manual said it was supposed to do.  Sonny Service would be proud....

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Post# 995364 , Reply# 34   5/27/2018 at 17:15 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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The lower aluminum trim panel looked way better after a bath!

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Post# 995365 , Reply# 35   5/27/2018 at 17:18 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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And the washer top needed a good scrub.  I think I'll need some rubbing compound on those water stains on the lip. 

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Post# 995366 , Reply# 36   5/27/2018 at 17:22 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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Of course I wasn't going to forget the plastic control panel. It cleaned up very nicely.  There was a section of paint missing where the fluorescent tub would shine through - wasn't sure what to use but drywall primer/sealer seemed to work. It will be a bit lighter than the original paint, but if I take up smoking....

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Post# 995367 , Reply# 37   5/27/2018 at 17:28 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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And for my last trick, I thought I'd get the trim panel and strip back on.  Hubby and Canyon thought they were hearing the soundtrack from "The Exorcist"...

It did not go well... I had a devil of a time trying to seat the lower panel on its three upper mounting lugs. In the end I gave up and used construction cement.  Same for the upper chrome trim strip. I broke off one of the mounting tabs on re-installation so I tried cementing it, too. We will see next week when I take the straps off how well my idea worked.  Fingers crossed!!

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Post# 995371 , Reply# 38   5/27/2018 at 18:27 by pulltostart (Mobile, AL)        
Looking beautiful!

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Can't wait to see it all back together.  How do you go about painting the cabinet?  Do you have a spray booth or do you take it outside, or what?



Post# 995374 , Reply# 39   5/27/2018 at 18:45 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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I'm in LOVE Paul! What a beautiful job you are doing. Specially the painting. Are you using automotive paint?

Post# 995382 , Reply# 40   5/27/2018 at 19:08 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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Lawrence, I don't have a paint booth - it's all done in the garage (with the garage door nearest the machine closed...damn mosquitoes...)

Louis, I am using  Rustoleum appliance epoxy applied with a foam roller.  It works so much better for me 'cause my hands shake so got-danged much that I can't do a decent spray-paint job...


Post# 995460 , Reply# 41   5/28/2018 at 16:58 by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        
What else is there to say?

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Post# 995493 , Reply# 42   5/28/2018 at 21:12 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        

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What results do you get with regard to smoothness? I used the same Rustoleum epoxy applied with a foam roller last year on a refrigerator. I wasn't very satisfied with the results. And I even thinned it hoping it would flow out better. It was quite warm when I did it so that probably contributed to it drying faster. I called Rustoleum to ask if it could be sanded and was told yes.

I had originally decided to paint it with spray cans and did both doors that way. But the cans started spitting so I switched to the roller. Funny thing the spots created by the spitting flowed out enough they aren't that noticeable unless you look closely. The doors came out much smoother than the cabinet. With the doors being the part most seen I decided not to bother with the work of sanding and buffing the cabinet.

Post# 995495 , Reply# 43   5/28/2018 at 21:35 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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A roller? That looks great. It looks so smooth and shiny. I thought it was sprayed on.

Post# 995672 , Reply# 44   5/30/2018 at 15:40 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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Ken - I think temperature definitely has an impact on the application of the Rust-Oleum paint.   It was in the low-60s last weekend and it seemed to work well for me.  Something I noticed on the application instructions was that 'recoat is possible in 1 hour'; I've tried doing that on three recent projects (the '47 Bendix, the '47 Launderall, and this '57 GE) and it seems to work well.  On the GE, I was extra paranoid and gave a light recoat after 24 hours as well. 


For sanding, I've tried to sand rough spots and I found it didn't work that well.  Perhaps because I had applied a thicker coat of paint I found that the surface 'tore' rather than 'sanded'.  



Post# 995681 , Reply# 45   5/30/2018 at 16:28 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        
Thanks for the reply

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How many coats did you apply total? I believe I applied at least three and I think a fourth. How long did you allow the paint to cure before sanding? I think the tearing you experienced may have been to not letting the paint cure long enough before sanding. What grit paper did you use?

Post# 995721 , Reply# 46   5/30/2018 at 18:23 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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Ken - I did three coats and I let it dry for about 24 hours.  But I think you are right - it was likely not 'set' enough when I tried sanding.  I used a very fine grit paper (can't recall the grade) but it still tore the paint.  Curiously enough, I was able to successfully touch it up with a Q-Tip! 

Post# 996100 , Reply# 47   6/3/2018 at 17:05 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        
The big re-assembly

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This weekend's goal was to get the 57 GE back together again and test it. Well, that was the goal at least.

The paint was dry and looking good. 

With hubby's help, I got the tub back in with no damage to the suds or filter flo flumes. 

I was lucky enough to have a good tub gasket from the doomed '60 GE and a new fill flume!

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Post# 996101 , Reply# 48   6/3/2018 at 17:07 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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With the agitator back in and control panel put back together, it was starting to look like a washer again.

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Post# 996104 , Reply# 49   6/3/2018 at 17:18 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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I reconnected the colourful maze of wires and figured it was time for a dry test.


And that's where the wheels fell off....


I started the machine, heard the fill solenoids buzzing happily then I hit the water saver button.    POW went the breaker...


Knowing my weaknesses with wiring I assumed I made a bad connection somewhere. Nope.

Recalling the silly mistakes I had made with the timer boxes of the 66 Inglis and 65 Lady K which caused an accidental short, I pulled the timer and switch bank from the control panel. There was nothing glaringly obvious there.

At this point I can only think that my motor repair has gone south.  Why the machine worked fine a couple of weeks ago is beyond me. Perhaps I shifted or dislodged something in the motor or one of the motor connections somewhere but I have shifted or moved the washer that much....

The thought of getting that friggin' motor out again is not a happy one.  Sigh....

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Post# 996111 , Reply# 50   6/3/2018 at 18:39 by 114jwh (Vancouver)        

Congrats on a job well done so far Paul. That is super frustrating about the electrical issue. Just thinking out loud - didn't you indicate earlier that you were going to remove the suds setup? If so did you check the associated wiring? You also said you made some adjustments to the water saver switch - any possibilities there?

Hope it works out to be something easy and can't wait to see the finished product!

Post# 996141 , Reply# 51   6/4/2018 at 08:04 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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James, I had the very same thought about the water saver switch!  My "logic" had me checking whatever I had messed with recently and that switch was number one on the list.  It tested OK, though...    I did also notice that the 'pull on' 'push off' switch in the timer is no longer working so I am worried I knocked or disturbed something in the timer.  The panel fluorescent light didn't want to work on the first test either, but that was because I hadn't seated the bulb in the socket firmly.  


I'll not be playing with the GE again until the weekend, but I have a test plan.  Among the tests will be to hook up another GE washer motor outside of the machine and see if it works when connected to the 57's wiring.   I also have this hare-brained idea that one of the connectors underneath the motor may have slipped.  Well, I will find out on Saturday with any luck.  I'll warn Hydro this week.... LOL 

Post# 996145 , Reply# 52   6/4/2018 at 08:53 by pulltostart (Mobile, AL)        

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The washer is looking great!  It's so nice to see it with fresh paint and with (clean) trim attached.  Take comfort in how much progress you've made so far and take it one step at a time.  It will all work out.



Post# 996150 , Reply# 53   6/4/2018 at 09:18 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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Thanks Lawrence.... I'm trying not to get too upset about it but considering my track record with GE washers.... GGGGRRRRR!


James, forgot to mention that I removed the entire suds saver assembly and all wiring from that patchboard.  I had a sudden flash (pun intended) that perhaps, just perhaps the breaker went pow because of the speed solenoid on the clutch (the wash and spin speed selectors were both in the slow setting) but that wasn't it either.  Trying not to obsess about this.  Grumble....

Post# 996278 , Reply# 54   6/5/2018 at 12:07 by potatochips (Nova Scotia)        

Looking great, Paul! I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. Its almost there. 

Post# 996290 , Reply# 55   6/5/2018 at 14:31 by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        
Magnificent. Don't you just love GE coral pink?

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Interesting that the inlet flumes for your P and my P both seem to have been outfitted with the Rinse Dispenser diverter spout on the top of it even though that dispenser wasn't introduced until 1958. Or is that a replacement? Mine looked like it was original, not shiny like yours.


Please clean that Filter-Flo Flume and the undersides of the lid with a detailing brush and an acid before I have to look at it again; it's like nails on a chalk board.

(1. Ducking, 2. Running).

Post# 996458 , Reply# 56   6/7/2018 at 11:23 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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I am preparing for a further attempt on the washer this weekend and thought it might be prudent to make a flowchart.

Hmmmm.... maybe THIS is why my track record with GE's is so poor...tongue-out

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Post# 996460 , Reply# 57   6/7/2018 at 11:29 by pulltostart (Mobile, AL)        

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Love the flow chart!  But let's hope you never get to the bottom rectangle!!!



Post# 996461 , Reply# 58   6/7/2018 at 11:30 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        

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Id bet hubby could be persuaded to make the call?

Post# 996463 , Reply# 59   6/7/2018 at 12:09 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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Oh, Hubby's got the number on speed-dial and has an itchy finger.... LOL


Seriously,  although I'm concerned about the original motor, I do nonetheless have a plan B and C.  Plan C will require a schematic wiring diagram from a later 2-Speed Filter-Flo machine though...  

Post# 996470 , Reply# 60   6/7/2018 at 12:54 by potatochips (Nova Scotia)        

I have a mid 80s wiring diagram I could mail you Paul if needed. 

Post# 996647 , Reply# 61   6/9/2018 at 12:54 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        
The day so far....

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While I do believe gremlins can play tricks on you when you are not looking, I still figured I should try the 57 GE again. Well ok, I triple-checked the wiring first...

Nothing was glaringly obvious so I figured I'd try a power test.  But this time, I tried the washer in spin....

Sonofab.... started right up and went to full speed! Then I tried advancing to rinse and POW.  The breaker tripped.

During the spin I heard solenoids buzzing and I observed the push-pull switch on the timer did not work....

So I still have an electrical issue, possibly with the timer. And I can't help but fret that it might be a shorted winding for clockwise/activation operation but I want to find out why that push/pull switch isn't working and why the solenoids stay on...  Stay tuned....

Post# 996650 , Reply# 62   6/9/2018 at 13:16 by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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Hey Paul, it really doesn't sound like the motor because all the timer does is reverse the polarity of the voltage into the start windings. If the motor works in one direction it should be fine in the other. It sounds like a miss wiring of some sort or an issue with the timer. Please keep us posted.

Post# 996663 , Reply# 63   6/9/2018 at 15:45 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        
Meet 'miss wiring' of 2018

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And that would be me... LOL 

I did some continuity testing and was troubled that there seemed to be'hot' power flowing to certain components through the neutral feed from the line cord.  I checked the wiring diagram again and.... wait for it....

The white lead from the line cord had to be connected to the red-black terminal on the patch panel!  How did I mess that up you ask? Well when Mr. Know-It-All very carefully (HA!) checked the connections it seemed fine - three white wires were connected to the white terminal.   Except I neglected to trace the wires... I was and should have been 1 wire short on the panel because I disconnected the suds return valve and pump.

I connected the wire line cord wire to the red-black terminal and all my troubles went away!

The GE fills when it's supposed to and tricking it into activation with the water saver now actually starts activation.  Timer runs, push-pull switch works, and it even spins.   Film at 11... LOL 

Seriously I am greatly relieved and will post videos probably early next week.

Now to raise a glass to victory!!

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Post# 996670 , Reply# 64   6/9/2018 at 16:57 by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        

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Post# 996674 , Reply# 65   6/9/2018 at 17:39 by pulltostart (Mobile, AL)        
As we say in the south...

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Hot Damn!!!



Post# 996739 , Reply# 66   6/10/2018 at 11:57 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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That's all I will say for now.   Video proof coming tomorrow or Tuesday.

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Post# 996759 , Reply# 67   6/10/2018 at 16:48 by lesto (Atlanta)        

Awesome. Can't wait to see the video! So glad you found the wiring problem. The 57 is such a rare find. Love the pink and grey activator cap!

Post# 996806 , Reply# 68   6/10/2018 at 22:01 by potatochips (Nova Scotia)        

Im glad you got this running Paul, and what a machine to work on too. This is a real beaut of a machine, special and milestone machine. Congratulations, were all proud of you! 

Post# 996807 , Reply# 69   6/10/2018 at 22:04 by 114jwh (Vancouver)        
Congrats Paul.....

Super happy for ya! Although its frustrating to run into a hiccup doing these projects, isn't it such a great relief when it turns out to be an easy fix! Your perseverance always pays off.

I'm glad you got it working and can't wait to see the full deal soon!

Post# 996820 , Reply# 70   6/11/2018 at 09:05 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        
Time for some videos

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I apologize in advance for the video quality.  My shakes and shudders make it a challenge to take video with my phone (still haven't gotten a new camera...) and I was pretty darn excited too - these are the very first tests with water in the washer.  Now, I have to do some serious rearranging down in the Ogden Laundry to make room for not only the 57 GE, but that 58 Duomatic, too!


Post# 996821 , Reply# 71   6/11/2018 at 09:06 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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A short video of activation with suds.  Note - this is not a test with Rosalie's Zero Suds.... LOL 


Post# 996822 , Reply# 72   6/11/2018 at 09:12 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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Here's the first spin post-restoration.  It seems as if it takes a while to spin out the water, but then again it's not a Frigidaire.... LOL  


What has me slightly puzzled is the way the Sudskill behaves on this model - the spin cycle pauses but there's no water flowing in as it does on the '51 (and supposedly on the '53).  I did read the service manual (no comments, please) and did not see anything to indicate that the WA855 does a water-spray Sudskill.  Could that possibly be because of the suds-saving capability in this model?  I know that both the Kenmore and Inglis suds-savers will divert the spray rinse drain water to the drain port that goes to a standpipe and not into a wash tub....  Anyway, something else to keep me up a night.   


But boy, this was a sweet victory.  Can't wait to try some clothes soon!!


Post# 996823 , Reply# 73   6/11/2018 at 09:23 by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, Iowa)        

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Oh Paul, this is wonderful! So happy for you and the progress you've made with this amazing GE! I believe you are the only one in the club with a working '57?

The spin does seem a bit slow but I'm no expert on these. If it is indeed slower than normal it may take a few loads for the clutch shoes to break themselves in again.


Post# 996831 , Reply# 74   6/11/2018 at 10:31 by pulltostart (Mobile, AL)        

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We have LIFT-OFF!!!!!


Thanks for the videos - fun to watch, fun to see the 1957 brought back to life.



Post# 996913 , Reply# 75   6/11/2018 at 22:17 by 114jwh (Vancouver)        
Congrats once again Paul!

I see what you mean about the spin stopping and then starting back up again - what would be the point if there isn't any spray? Maybe it does have something to do with the Suds Saver? I don't know very much about GE washers but I know with the older Inglis machines the timer was the same whether you had the suds model or not. If GE did the same thing you could rule that out maybe? Or maybe its somehow a by-product of removing the suds saver components? Agree though, its odd that it stops spinning and then starts up again for no apparent reason.

Awesome job!

Post# 996923 , Reply# 76   6/12/2018 at 00:46 by stricklybojack (San Diego, CA)        

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Thanks for sharing, I love you persistence.

Post# 996935 , Reply# 77   6/12/2018 at 06:57 by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)        

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Excellent work, Paul! Congrats on getting this running again, you'll enjoy solid tub Filter-Flo washing a lot, it'll be one of the best for removing "Canyon hair" from your washday blues :-)

Post# 996936 , Reply# 78   6/12/2018 at 07:14 by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        

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AFAIK the suds-kill is built into and underneath the Fill-Flume. There's a small metal plate inside the inlet port that constantly diverts some of the water down into the outer tub. I noticed it when I first broke into my 850-P, brilliantly cracking the hard plastic flume so I got to dissect the thing. That's when I noticed the flume had a port for the rinse dispenser on top and a port on the bottom to send water into the outer tub, presumably to add water to start activation but also to rinse spun suds down the drain. I haven't operated the 850-P for many years, but the spray rinses on the other Solid Tub FF's I've seen have two generous 20 second spray rinses on either side of the big pause.


Being a FF, our first Solid-Tub oversudsed frequently(until some serviceman told us to use Dash instead of Tide) and I don't think the suds ever stalled that machine. Usually the suds cake would rise above the balance ring and get pushed out into the outer tub through that big gap between the ring and the lid that they later closed up with a rubber boot.

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Post# 996939 , Reply# 79   6/12/2018 at 07:45 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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Ken, I didn't see any kind of a metal diverter plate on the broken fill flume nor on the NOS replacement I put into the 855...  And further, I did not observe power to the cold solenoid during the spin after the wash cycle either while testing or in the timer cam charts in the book.  I can't help but think the suds-saver models didn't do a cold spray sudskill...  The manual that I have seems to detail on both of the suds-saver models offered in '57 but not the non-suds models.    I have to do me some more diggin'.  


I have observed a bit of splash back while the machine is filling and I now think it may be due to the rinse tray inlet.  That didn't debut until '58, n'est-ce que pas??  Thanks for that illustration - it has been most enlightening!!



Post# 996942 , Reply# 80   6/12/2018 at 08:47 by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        
Just use Rosalie's

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I don't see why that would be so. The suds saving would happen during the "throw"; the water isn't sprayed until a few intervals after that. I am assuming that they designed the saver pump solenoid to divert back to the regular drain hose in that time. You will want to cap off that rinse port, most probably. I've seen NOS Solid Tub flumes both with and without that port; I have to assume my flume wasn't OE.


More importantly, is the Suds Return System working? I just was given a Solid Tub Suds Saver by Jon Charles and I can't wait to get an external tub and a return hose to see and watch it work.


I remember first reading about the feature in 1969 in the 1969 Consumer Reports article on washing machines (those Debbie Downers poo-pooed them overall), but I had never seen one. I guess they might have been popular in rural areas where housewives were being encouraged to give up their Wringer Washers where they were used to saving the water. My maternal Grandmother would have bought that feature but I'm betting my Mother steered her away from it because the idea back then was to get her to stop going down to the basement to do the laundry where she had a wringer machine and one of those old beautiful huge laundry sinks for storing the water. Exactly what I need right now but I know I have a Homart tub buried somewhere in the bowels.


There isn't a cycle description in the manual for the 855 P? I'll dig my 1957 GE Service manual out and look at it. Then I'll clean up my entire house and property, by myself,  sell it and move to Vancouver BC so I can look at pictures of Justin Trudeaux instead of Krusty the Klown, and have Chinese food in Richmond. Hey, it could happen.

This post was last edited 06/12/2018 at 14:53
Post# 996943 , Reply# 81   6/12/2018 at 08:56 by lesto (Atlanta)        

None of the solid tub GE's of this period had a spray rinse. The pause during the first spin is standard on ALL GE's. It has nothing to do with the suds saver. The models without it have this same pause for suds kill. Not sure when the spray rinse was added but the 56 thru 60 models definitely did not. We had a 59 with no suds saver when I was growing up and it had the pause on both the normal and short cycles.

Post# 996948 , Reply# 82   6/12/2018 at 10:56 by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        
No return on suds

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I've decided not to put the suds-saver system back into the 57 GE for the moment.  I have the key component, a brand-new-still-in-the-GE-envelope gasket for the suds valve but I have to do some finagaling to replace the rotted hoses and figure out how to mount a modern replacement solenoid on the valve.   I am itching to play with the 'new' GE, what can I say... 


Interesting that the sudskill-spray-rinse was not around in the later 50s machines.  Always good to know!

Post# 996964 , Reply# 83   6/12/2018 at 13:36 by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        
Beg to differ here

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Both my 1960 T models have/had spray rinses. My WA1050T has the spray rinses I described above and the WA630T that we had in the '60's also had spray rinses. 


I'm pretty sure the '59 TOL also had it, but I hope members with 1959-1957 models will chime in. I have service manuals from all 4 years; when I find where I put them I will publish the cycle descriptions if they indicate spray rinses. It may be that 1960 was the the last year of the Solid tub but the first year with spray rinses and plastic filter pans.

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Post# 996965 , Reply# 84   6/12/2018 at 13:53 by Frigidaireguy (Wiston-Salem, NC)        
'57 GE Spray Rinses

My aunt had a '57 GE that was pretty much BOL. It only had one speed - Hot & Warm Wash - Automatic warm rinse. It did have the water saver option. It did pause in the middle of the first spin and I always wondered why. There was no spray rinse. It would fill for the rinse and then the final spin.


Post# 996966 , Reply# 85   6/12/2018 at 14:00 by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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The little nozzle on the top of the fill flume is for the fabric softener dispenser. The suds kill pause (75 seconds) was simply meant to stop the tub before reaching full 610rpm speed and let the suds settle down about before going into spin again. If there are a lot of suds in the outer tub, the suds act as a brake and stops the tub from coasting very fast, otherwise the tub usually doesn't even reach a full stop during the suds kill pause. I remember the 1951 model having a spray during the suds kill but my 1958 model does not have a spray rinse at all. I wish it did and may have add that lol.

Post# 997099 , Reply# 86   6/14/2018 at 00:03 by hippiedoll (tucson, arizona u.s.a.)        

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You did an amazing job on this GE Filter-Flo!
It looks GREAT!
I like the 3-vane agitator/activator.

Post# 997121 , Reply# 87   6/14/2018 at 08:06 by peteski50 (New York)        
57 GE!

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Paul you did such a Great restoration - Best Of Luck!

Post# 997173 , Reply# 88   6/14/2018 at 16:58 by tgm8000 (New York)        
spray rinses

My mother had that 1960 GE top of the line model wa1050t and it had spray rinses.

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