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Thread Number: 76475
/ Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
Whirlpool Direct Drive (GSW9800PW2) Pausing During 1st Spin |
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Post# 1003236 , Reply# 1 8/10/2018 at 22:00 (2,075 days old) by DADoES  (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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 Assuming the problem isn't related to the timer not enacting the pauses correctly, then the neutral drain mechanism in the transmission is worn/malfunctioning. Whirlpool part number 388253 is a low-cost repair kit that includes the relevant parts. It's not difficult to install but requires pulling and opening the transmission. That's a good opportunity to refresh the oil (90-wt gear oil) ... so can be a bit messy. Regards to the timer pauses ... it should pause the motor for a few seconds after each agitate period (wash or rinse), restart the motor for drain without spinning, then pause again for a few seconds and resume to engage spin. The neutral drain mechanism mechanically sets during agitation to prevent the spin gear inside the transmission from rotating when the motor first reverses after agitation (neutral drain). The lock releases when the motor stops (2nd pause), and then the spin gear engages when the motor starts again. Both pauses are necessary for neutral drain and then spin to function properly. (Opening the lid during neutral drain has the same effect as a timer pause, so spin will start immediately when it's closed.) There are videos on YouTube detailing the procedure ... one is linked below. Alternative is replace the transmission as a whole. CLICK HERE TO GO TO DADoES's LINK | ||
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Post# 1003263 , Reply# 3 8/11/2018 at 05:31 (2,075 days old) by Lorainfurniture (Cleveland ) |
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It’s definitely the gearcase. Go for the rebuild. It’s very simple if you have some mechanical inclination | ||
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Post# 1003273 , Reply# 4 8/11/2018 at 08:08 (2,075 days old) by coldspot66 (Plymouth, Mass) |
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If the motor pauses then restarts on its own, sounds like a timer or loose connection of some sort. | ||
| Post# 1003331 , Reply# 5 8/11/2018 at 15:47 (2,074 days old) by shanenc14 (Tennessee, USA) | ||
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Just a thought... Does the lid switch on these models stop agitation AND spinning or just any part of the cycle where the unit is spinning? | ||
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Post# 1003363 , Reply# 6 8/11/2018 at 21:01 (2,074 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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| Post# 1003389 , Reply# 7 8/12/2018 at 05:34 (2,074 days old) by shanenc14 (Tennessee, USA) | ||
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Yes, it goes silent. Happened again last night, and during the pause I didn't hear the pump running or anything. Pump runs continuously when the motor is running on direct drive, right? Correct me if I'm wrong. | ||
| Post# 1003391 , Reply# 9 8/12/2018 at 06:40 (2,074 days old) by Pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada) | ||
do your whirlpool direct drive washer sometime skip the first spin and start filling for the first rinse if it do that then it might be a defective timer motor maybe you should look into this know by experience since the inglis superbII direct drive washer that I had from 1993 to 2005 had to have the timer replace since it was pausing and skiping the frist spin on normal cycle?
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| Post# 1003392 , Reply# 10 8/12/2018 at 06:40 (2,074 days old) by shanenc14 (Tennessee, USA) | ||
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Brisnat81: I think you may have it. Would changing the gearcase oil solve the issue or am I looking at a total gearcase replacement here? | ||
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Post# 1003394 , Reply# 11 8/12/2018 at 06:46 (2,074 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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This video shows the difference between a properly functioning neutral drain and a malfunctioning neutral drain. 1 min 20 secs to 3 mins 34 secs shows proper function -- agitate, pause, drain, pause, spin. The narration explains regards to the rinse sequence but it functions exactly the same after the wash period (although perhaps without the spray rinses). You can see the basket move slightly due to motor inertia when the neutral drain lock releases at the second motor pause (although that doesn't necessarily occur in every instance of neutral drain release). 3 mins 35 secs shows neutral drain fail. It doesn't show the second pause and restart of spin but that will occur ... which in your case of using softener, the softener will release prematurely when spin/(drain) stops and spin resumes. Just changing the oil is not an assured fix. You need to change the neutral drain components with the Whirlpool part number kit that I referenced above to be sure the problem is solved. CLICK HERE TO GO TO DADoES's LINK | ||
| Post# 1003400 , Reply# 12 8/12/2018 at 07:58 (2,074 days old) by shanenc14 (Tennessee, USA) | ||
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Well, after watching DADoES's video, and following the instructions to test the neutral drain...I suppose it's time to get my hands dirty in the next few days and replace the neutral drain kit in the gearcase. Thanks a million for all the help guys! :) | ||
| Post# 1003535 , Reply# 13 8/13/2018 at 15:27 (2,072 days old) by shanenc14 (Tennessee, USA) | ||
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Hi guys, Another question about replacing the Neutral Drain Kit. I've been unable to find a gasket for the transmission/gearcase. Is there a OEM/Whirlpool approved gasket making material that I can use to seal the tranny back once the kit is replaced? | ||
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Post# 1003561 , Reply# 14 8/13/2018 at 18:23 (2,072 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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There is no gasket, the transmission cover is glued on with a sealant. Check at 7:45 on the video I linked in the first reply way above for that fellow's choice of sealant. Clean/scrape off all the residue from the original sealant to insure a good seal. Apply a thin, even layer of the new sealant to the rim of the cover ... it'll compress and ooze out some when the screws are tightened. Let it sit for 24 hrs to dry/cure before installing back into the machine. | ||
| Post# 1004881 , Reply# 15 8/25/2018 at 23:03 (2,060 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
I hope your repair is a success! I just did the exact repair. It can be a little messy but very straightforward. Glenn's advice and direction is very helpful.
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| Post# 1005031 , Reply# 16 8/27/2018 at 06:34 (2,059 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA) | ||
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Post# 1008897 , Reply# 19 9/28/2018 at 15:30 (2,026 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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Cover fasteners are 5/16" ... they're screws moreso than bolts. Oil change isn't required if the condition is not compromised but it's reasonable to do so while having the transmission pulled and open. I used paint thinner as a cleaner/solvent. Best to fully disassemble the gears (except don't try to pull the main input shaft/worm gear) for access to flush all the residue. Watch for the cam bearing disc and little ball bearing in the cavity beneath it under the agitator shaft ... don't lose them. The disc should be oriented with the little dimple downward to the ball bearing. | ||
| Post# 1009230 , Reply# 20 9/30/2018 at 22:55 (2,024 days old) by shanenc14 (Tennessee, USA) | ||
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Complete Disassembly? DADoES, Are you saying it's best to completely disasemble, clean and re-assemble the gearcase, like shown in this video? Then clean with paint thinner (which I just bought), and reassemble using fresh 80w90 gear oil, and new Neutral Drain Kit? | ||
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Post# 1009242 , Reply# 21 10/1/2018 at 02:36 (2,024 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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Right. I removed all the parts and gears, cleaned them individually in paint thinner and brushed the bottom area with it. You're replacing the neutral drain parts (which includes the big plastic spin gear) so all of that will have to come off anyway. I was rebuilding the circa 1999 machine I did, replacing the tub support (which includes centerpost bearings & seal) and basket drive/brake (which includes agitator shaft bearings & seal) so I also replaced the agitator shaft for fresh bearing/seal surface. The first neutral drain piece with the spring that he shows a right and wrong way ... it has a small tab on the bottom that has to fit inside the rectangular cutout on the plate. The "wrong way" has the tab outside the plate and cutout. | ||
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Post# 1009336 , Reply# 23 10/2/2018 at 04:22 (2,023 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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Post# 1009341 , Reply# 24 10/2/2018 at 06:22 (2,023 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Brake & Spin-Tube For WP DD Washers While it is a good idea to replace this part if the seal area and bearing is rusted or scored in the top center-post area you don't have to replace it because the brake shoes are getting worn. I have never seen one of these with even a tiny bit of wear on the brake shoes.
The part you found is a cheap Chinese knock-off and while it might work ok I seriously dough it is as good as the WP orignal part in quality of the shaft plating Etc there have been knock-offs of WP agitator shafts and spin tubes since the 60s and they have never held up as well as the real thing.
John L. | ||
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Post# 1009344 , Reply# 25 10/2/2018 at 07:23 (2,023 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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Post# 1010037 , Reply# 26 10/7/2018 at 18:58 (2,017 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD) |
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I consider the lack of a neutral drain a feature and not a bug. | ||
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