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Post# 1003582   8/13/2018 at 20:37 (661 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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I need a therapist/counselor ...

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Post# 1003589 , Reply# 1   8/13/2018 at 20:56 (661 days old) by wft2800 (Leatherhead, Surrey)        

Wait, what - top-loading H-axis dryer, but the washer is a vertical-axis HE washplate thing?!

Post# 1003597 , Reply# 2   8/13/2018 at 21:26 (661 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

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Hey Glenn, was that dryer built in the USA/Canada or elsewhere?  I know the regular front door F&P dryers were GE built.  I remember when our local dealer told me they were developing a top loading dryer and I saw a few of them in the showrooms later on but I've never used one.

Post# 1003598 , Reply# 3   8/13/2018 at 21:27 (661 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, Theres a Lady on Stage)        
I need a therapist/counselor

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No you don't. *LOL*

Were it so please go to the end of that queue; there is rather long line. Hahahaha.

Post# 1003614 , Reply# 4   8/13/2018 at 22:25 (661 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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The washer was produced in Clyde, OH. Serial June 2009, US.

Dryer also in Clyde ... which I wasn't aware any were done in the U.S., thought all the topload units were manuf'd in NZ. Serial March 2010, US.

My daily-driver dryer since Oct 2004 is an F&P toploader, a DEGX1 SmartLoad model, not an AeroSmart. Serial July 2004, NZ.

AeroSmart is the same mechanism, just a different marketing name and slightly more "deluxe" with the designated Sheets and Bulky cycles.

These are the lower-end AquaSmart and AeroSmart models. The TOL models have different control consoles with LCD panels ... similar to the difference between Eco Smart and Intuitive Eco. Found them on the local Facebook Marketplace. Quite surprising to find such here so I couldn't let them pass. Seller said he bought them in San Antonio. He said no issues with the dryer (remains to be seen) but the washer needs a "motion sencor" and "springs." I haven't yet run diagnostics but the tub bounced like a bronco on a test spin, which indicates bad suspension. He had bought a spare control panel (included) via eBay but that's not the fix for this situation.

Post# 1003622 , Reply# 5   8/14/2018 at 00:44 (661 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)        

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Congratulations Glenn! No need for a therapist, we can do that for you. ;-)

Post# 1003653 , Reply# 6   8/14/2018 at 08:50 (660 days old) by Frigilux (The Minnesota Prairie)        

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Good luck with repairs on the washer and we'll look forward to video (should you have time) when the job's completed. I, too, got a chuckle from the washer being vertical axis/washplate and the dryer horizontal axis. Don't see that often.

Post# 1003656 , Reply# 7   8/14/2018 at 10:17 (660 days old) by deltablu (Eastern South Dakota)        
We sold hundreds

of the lesser versions of these machines. GWL15/WAT26G washers and DEGX1/DEGX2 TL h-axis dryers. We got totally out of F&P after they discontinued the TL h-axis dryer. Without that they were harder to market and we had lots of upset customers with the pump failures on the washers. They didn't have any fusing in their controls and any electrical problem takes out the boards. They just notified us last week that the pumps are no longer going to be manufactured, so probably not going to be fixing many more of them.

Post# 1003759 , Reply# 8   8/15/2018 at 09:08 (659 days old) by gizmo (Great Ocean Road, Victoria, Au)        

Hi Glenn

About the suspension - The following assumes the washer suspension is similar to the older Smart Drive machines, I am more familiar with them.

You can give a new lease of life to the suspension units. Remove the caps hiding the screws at front of the top panel. Remove the screws. Tilt the top panel back, lean it against a wall. Lift the top of one suspension strut to disengage the top of the strut. Drop the strut assembly downwards to disengage the assembly from the outer tub. Manoevre the strut up and out from between cabinet and outer tub.

Now turn the strut upside down, let the plastic outer "bell" slide down to reveal the plastic inner friction disc, which is at the bottom of the steel strut. (now at the top). You will see that the friction disc has a flared lip around the edge.The flare weakens over time, you simply need to bend the lip outwards a bit more all the way around the disc. I roll the handle of a screwdriver around the lip to increase the flare. This makes the flared edge of the disc a tighter fit in the plastic "bell" so the suspension sits firmer and doesn't bounce around so much. You will get another year or two of use before it needs to be re-flared again. DO NOT LUBE the disc. It needs friction to control bouncing.
Now refit that strut and repeat one at a time on the other 3.

I'm not sure if smaller FP washers were sold in USA or only the 7.5 kg models, but the larger machines certainly have this trouble more here. The 5 and 5.5kg models never seem to have suspension trouble, the 7.5 kg models always do. The big models use the same suspension as the smaller ones, which may explain the trouble in the big 'uns.

If it spins, I doubt it needs a motion sensor. (The hall sensor I assume...)


Post# 1003796 , Reply# 9   8/15/2018 at 18:25 (659 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Gizmo/Chris: Thanks for the tip. It may be useful in the future for my non-AquaSmart models. Early AquaSmart used open springs on the suspension but that was redesigned to sealed, grease-filled dampers. U.S. models are always the largest capacity.

AquaSmart also has multiple elastic straps to control tub oscillation (vs. one bias spring).

An interesting development. There are detergent, bleach, and softener dispensers on the top deck ... but it didn't register until now that the model number on back of the console is WL37T26KW2 which is a non-dispenser model.

The tag on back of the cabinet references WL37T26DW2 which is a triple-dispenser model.

The tag on the included extra console matches the cabinet tag ... so it's the original console (has option buttons for Bleach and Softener). The replacement console/display board that the seller bought via eBay in an attempt to fix the machine is installed, and it's the wrong one (does not have Bleach and Softener options).

The tub and basket are on-par with what I expected ... could be worse!

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Post# 1003812 , Reply# 10   8/15/2018 at 21:41 (659 days old) by westtexman (Lubbock, Texas)        
Very Nice Glenn!

It sounds like we need to have another Texas Wash-In in the near future!

Post# 1003827 , Reply# 11   8/16/2018 at 05:27 (658 days old) by appnut (TX)        

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Works for me B!!!!

Post# 1004220 , Reply# 12   8/20/2018 at 12:29 (654 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Post# 1004510 , Reply# 13   8/22/2018 at 17:49 (652 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        
Dryer Runs

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Heats, bearings are quiet and smooth. Needs clean-up. (buzzing is very noisy air conditioner through open garage door)

Post# 1004511 , Reply# 14   8/22/2018 at 18:01 (652 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        
Washer Progress

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1 - Smutz in the basket (bowl in NZ parlance) air dome cavities.

2 & 3 - Bowl clean.

4 & 5 - Dirty & clean tub.

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Post# 1004512 , Reply# 15   8/22/2018 at 18:13 (652 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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1 - SmartPump mounted under tub. Drain hose at top, recirculate hose at bottom.

2 - Stator removed. It's a wet-rotor design. The pink bearing cavity fills with water for lubrication.

3 - Stator pieces. 325v, 6-pole, 3-phase.

4 - AquaSmart uses a reversing pump with a passive flapper valve instead of a powered diverter. Water turbulence pushes the flapper to close one outlet port and open the other for drain or recirculate depending upon which direction the impeller rotates. The impeller and flapper aren't normally exposed, a cover piece mounts atop the housing to protect against debris.

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Post# 1004513 , Reply# 16   8/22/2018 at 18:20 (652 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        
SmartDrive Motor

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1 - Motor rotor.

2 - Close-up of magnets (48 total).

3 - Whirlpool part number!

4 - Stator, also with Whirlpool part number. 36-pole, 3-phase, DC current.

5 - RPS (rotor position sensor).

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Post# 1004971 , Reply# 17   8/26/2018 at 16:39 (648 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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A concern related to the washer's off-balance, galloping tub has come to attention. Service doc says the bowl is to weigh 24 lbs 3 oz +/- 10 oz (another reference in the same doc says +/- 4.2 oz). The weight spec takes the water-filled balance rings into consideration in that off-spec weight indicates balance ring integrity is failed/leaked.

Bowl weight & balance ring integrity is an integral factor in spin stability & off-balance handling. The machine does not have a physical off-balance switch but rather employs software-based "bump detect" of cabinet impacts and rotational characteristics.

I get 22.6 or 22.8 lbs via my bathroom scales, which accuracy is not insured.

I weighed 3 gals of water which should be a smidgeon over 25 lbs incl the plastic 5-gal bucket. It clocked 26.6 lbs. The empty bucket doesn't itself register on the scales.

There's no evidence of a cracked balance ring and I hear water sloshing when the bowl is rolled. The upper balance ring is comprised of two chambers, both half-filled. The base balance ring has three chambers, also all partially-filled. There's no way to judge that all five chambers are properly filled other than via weight of the whole thing.

So the decision is should I get a new bowl on the presumption 22.8 lbs (considering the apparent error of the scales re: the water bucket test) is too far off the 24.x lbs spec and that's the whole problem .... or get suspension rods .... or an RPS ... or some combination of the items.

Post# 1004974 , Reply# 18   8/26/2018 at 17:08 (648 days old) by brisnat81 (Brisbane Australia)        

I would start with the suspension rods, they seem to get a lot of attention on youtube when it comes to items needing to be replaced on these for inability to spin.

I have one of the Early Aquasmart models that was sold as a second back when the Factory still operated in Brisbane. I got it second hand and put a new control board in it only to discover it goes OOB in every single load that has anything in it. I decided at that point I'd wasted enough money and just left it in storage.

I'd love to know if they can be reprogrammed to take an agitator rather than just the washplate

Post# 1005845 , Reply# 19   9/2/2018 at 12:15 (641 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        
AeroSmart Dryer Clean-Up

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The previous owners apparently had pets, lots of short white/black animal hair in the lint accumulation. Also some general dirt.

Disassembly is by removing the top panel, front panel, and the door grabber mechanism. The internal chassis then tilts out forward as a unit for further disassembly.

The heater box and motor control board mount to the floor.

Two heating elements, 3,400 watts (2/3 capacity - A) and 1,600 watts (1/3 capacity - B). Both elements energize on high temp, forward drum rotation. Only the A element operates on medium and low temp, forward direction. Only the B element operates during reverse tumble.

The lint filter ring rotates with the drum. A scraper piece about 1/8" distance from it peels accumulated lint off the inner surface which drops into a collection bucket, thus effectively keeping the filter clear throughout the cycle.

The ring of dimples embossed into the drum is optically read by the sensor board in Pic 9 to monitor the rotational speed and direction, and position (the gap in the dimple ring) for opening the drum door.

The wad of lint and hair in Pic 10 is behind the housing where the collection bucket sits.

The back of the lint scraper can be seen at the top in Pic 11.

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Post# 1005847 , Reply# 20   9/2/2018 at 12:42 (641 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        
AeroSmart Reassembly

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The blower pulls air through the heater box, through the input flume on the right side of the chassis, into the drum, through the filter ring and the duct on the left side of the chassis, and blows out the exhaust duct. Can reach into the exhaust duct from the back and touch the blower wheel.

New bearing shaft. Sorry, I didn't get a pic of the bearing assembly that mounts to the drum.

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Post# 1005848 , Reply# 21   9/2/2018 at 13:04 (641 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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The drum baffles and door housing are mounted into the drum during assembly and cannot be disassembled. I wanted to remove the baffles to clean the lint that surely is accumulated in them but that's not possible. :-(

The drum door is secured closed by the red latch tabs and the locking bars.

A dual-pulley assembly applies tension to the drum belt.

The drum door is opened by way of the drum rotating slowly backwards, the door grabber mechanism moving down to release the red latches, catch and lift the locking bars and "grab" the door. The door then essentially is held stationary as the drum continues to rotate, which slides the door through the slots in the housing and it ends up hanging in front of the drum.

Closing the door is the reverse ... drum rotates forward until the door is closed, then the door grabber lifts to release and engage the locking bars and "let go" of the door.

The lid, of course, locks during operation for safety ... otherwise fingers could get caught and mangled by the rotating drum.

The lid unlocks during a power failure. A tab is provided to manually press the lid grabber down while rotating the drum backward by hand to open the lid. There's an information sticker on the drum lid with instructions.

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Post# 1005849 , Reply# 22   9/2/2018 at 13:06 (641 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        
Dryer Refurb Complete

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Post# 1005852 , Reply# 23   9/2/2018 at 13:29 (641 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)        

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Nice work, Glenn, the dryer looks amazing. Your detail and cleaning skills are to be commended, just sparkling work.

Now I want one of these dryers, again. I've seen a couple over the years on CL, etc. but haven't bitten. May have to try one, they are very unique.

Post# 1005856 , Reply# 24   9/2/2018 at 15:08 (641 days old) by deltablu (Eastern South Dakota)        

Looks like your lint filter is intact. With that much garbage in the filter bucket area, that's impressive. I did see that your A element is beginning to sag. Probably want to pick up an element kit while the parts still exist, unless you already have one.

Post# 1005886 , Reply# 25   9/2/2018 at 21:40 (641 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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AeroSmart swapped in. SmartLoad swapped out.

I like the lighter colors on the SmartLoad panel better than the black AeroSmart. :-/

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Post# 1006387 , Reply# 26   9/7/2018 at 14:54 (636 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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The AquaSmart worked with new suspension rods. Yay! I also changed the RPS so can't say with 100% certainty the suspension was the problem, although I imagine so. I don't "feel" much difference on the dampening of the old rods vs. the new when pulling on them so it's apparently subtle.

For those who noticed the reference above to "worked" ... that's right, it's now not working. My fault. Playing with it too much. I raised/lowered the top several times while watching it spin ... one time too many and too high up, causing a wire in the new RPS harness to get cut against the sharp edge of cabinet where the wire bundle passes up to the console at a notch at the right rear corner. The catastrophe zapped the motor board. Not fully dead but non-functional, has a burned spot. The new RPS probably is also damaged.

The replacement RPS has a hard-wired 5-lead harness which eliminates a connection plug at the RPS in the motor to avoid potential for corrosion or erratic contact. The original wire bundle has a heavy wrap of electrical tape at the corner. The new RPS harness is zip-tied to it at several points up from the bottom but is otherwise exposed at that corner. I should have either taped it there or run it on the inside of the bundle instead of on the outside. I left the original RPS harness in place in the wire bundle so can swap that RPS back in but have to replace the motor board.

Post# 1006424 , Reply# 27   9/7/2018 at 21:03 (636 days old) by IowaBear (Cedar Rapids, IA)        

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Enjoyed all the pictures.  The dryer looks smaller than the typical FL one, yet the capacity shows 6.2, so it's not really that much smaller.  Is it just an optical illusion?


Does the reversing action really reduce tangling on things like sheets?

Post# 1006563 , Reply# 28   9/9/2018 at 09:55 (634 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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It is smaller than what's typical nowadays, especially the 8.8 and 9 cu. ft. models that are available from some brands. The service manual states 6.5 cu. ft. (but the AeroSmart model number nomenclature references 6.2). I've always found it able to take a full washer load although the limit is pushed on occasion by my extra-large towels/socks/kitchen linens loads.

Reverse tumble seems effective. There's no way to watch the tumble action with the drum being sealed closed during operation. A single large item such as a quilt or bedspread doesn't roll-up to have any remaining damp areas. The one time I dried a queen-size quilt in the WP 27" Calypso-match dryer on the designated Bulky cycle ... no such joy.

The drum rotates at 47 RPM during drying. 4 mins forward tumble, 40 seconds reverse, repeated throughout drying and cool down. Cool down is to 95F or 10 mins max on auto-sense. 5 mins on 20 mins timed, 10 mins on 40 and 80 mins timed. Anti-wrinkle function tumbles 30 seconds every 5 mins (direction reverses for each tumble period) to a maximum of 255 cycles (approx 23 hrs). 20 RPM when searching for "home" position to prepare for door opening. 5 RPM after "home" is found until the door unlatches and the drum stops, which is via stalling at the end of the door's travel range.

Post# 1006611 , Reply# 29   9/9/2018 at 22:00 (634 days old) by IowaBear (Cedar Rapids, IA)        

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Found this article about the development of these dryers, not really sure who the audience was for this but it's fascinating. 


A feature I like is auto lint accumulator which is discussed on page 23.  At certain times of the day the sun shines though my basement windows and when I clean the lint filter on my Maytag dryer you can see the lint go flying!  No wonder the basement gets dusty.


The detail on the auto-dry is great too.  It's funny, we had a GE dryer with auto-dry when I was growing up but my mother never used it.  She taught me just to use timed dry and the amount of time for jeans, towels, mixed loads, etc.  I have no idea why she didn't use it.  After that I used coin laundry and the first time I used auto-dry was when I bought this house with an older 1987 Maytag dryer.  I was actually surprised when it worked almost perfectly.  I've changed the drum rollers and belt and it's still working fine.


Post# 1006629 , Reply# 30   9/10/2018 at 01:41 (633 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)        

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Thanks for that link! What puzzles me is why they never took this a step further and designed an H-axis toploader. They could have used the same technology to open the washer drum automatically.

Post# 1006638 , Reply# 31   9/10/2018 at 10:17 (633 days old) by IowaBear (Cedar Rapids, IA)        

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Technology in washer and dryers doesn't interest many.  The last two people I know who bought new washers were both single men and both bought one of the giant top-loading wash plate models.  (one Samsung, one LG.)


When I asked why they chose them, both said the same thing, they were the biggest ones that were on sale.  When I asked how they liked them, they both said "fine" and that was the end of the conversation, LOL.

Post# 1006745 , Reply# 32   9/11/2018 at 04:51 (632 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

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Here's the door opening/closing mechanism in action courtesy of RedCarpetDrew

Post# 1006787 , Reply# 33   9/11/2018 at 11:14 (632 days old) by fisherpaykel (BC Canada)        

Jim, yes thanks for that link, made for very interesting reading, engineered for sure. As to tangling of sheets I've had the dryer long enough that I forget about that problem-the worst is the ocassional sock getting caught in a corner of a fitted sheet. Glenn am I correct that previous owner must have used dryer softener sheets as that lint looks like sticky softener impregnated lint? Does correct dosing of liquid softener avoid the stickiness of dryer sheets? I don't use any softener myself. I have not removed the filter cover on my Smartload to check but sure hope I don't have that accumulation. Having recently replaced the pump on my GWL11-squealing on startup, sure enough rust on motor- good that they have this new pump design, similar to dishdrawer pump, which avoids pump shaft seal leaks. I assume this pump design is also on the agitator models? Thanks for all the detailed photos. Is that your Whirlpool Calypso in photo?

Post# 1006796 , Reply# 34   9/11/2018 at 13:40 (632 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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I found that dryer document 6 years ago. It seems to be an updated version issued when AquaSmart and AeroSmart were introduced, with the addition of references to those models. My SmartLoad dates to 2004 and has a different model syntax.

Whatever all was involved in their research of the auto-sensor algorithms resulted in very accurate and consistent performance in my experience. SmartLoad defaults to the regular "Dry" level on all cycles and I *rarely* have anything needing a recycle. Microfiber fabric throws it off-kilter, blankets/throws and I have a set of sheets that I don't much like anyway. I also have a set of cotton towels with large-weave pima cotton loops on the surface that are always left damp. They're not very absorbent for the intended function after a shower so are relegated to decorative purposes.

AeroSmart defaults to "Dry/Extra Dry" (one step up from normal "Dry") on Heavy (which is equivalent to Denim on SmartLoad) and Sheets. I've used Sheets once thus far and it seemed overdried so I will drop that to "Dry" on the next use.

Yes, the previous owner(s) used dryer sheets, there was one stuck under the edge of a drum baffle. The filter mesh had some residue, washed it thoroughly (and carefully) with Mr. Clean and a toothbrush.

I believe the WashSmart agitator models went to the SmartPump. The Selni pump was still used on agitator EcoSmart (non-AquaSmart) models through at least Phase 9 in 2010. Word is the vendor in France that produces them is shutting down (or already has) so they've gone NLA except for existing stock. I bought three spares and used one on the GWL11 refurb for my mother so have two left. I ran across a pump replacement how-to video on YouTube from a supplier in Aus that offers a substitute but there's no info provided for where/how to get them.

Yes, the Calypso.

Post# 1007353 , Reply# 35   9/15/2018 at 21:48 (628 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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There's a black-panel EcoSmart and SmartLoad set for sale $50 in a small town 20 miles up the road. Ad says the dryer has a squeak and the washer panel is "getting finicky." Nope, not doing it.

Post# 1007358 , Reply# 36   9/15/2018 at 22:19 (628 days old) by IowaBear (Cedar Rapids, IA)        

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Think of all the cheap parts that might be hard to get one day...  Only $50...  They wouldn't take up that much space..

Post# 1007581 , Reply# 37   9/17/2018 at 15:57 (626 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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I gave-in.

The sale is on FB Marketplace. I noted the seller's current location and the tiny town he's from via his profile. Contacted him. Discussed some details, then I asked if a couple of names related to his "from" town are familiar.

Yes, very much so.

His dad worked with Granny's brother-in-law.

Post# 1007736 , Reply# 38   9/18/2018 at 20:50 (625 days old) by IowaBear (Cedar Rapids, IA)        

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Hard to pass up for $50.  We'll be awaiting another set of pictures!

Post# 1007984 , Reply# 39   9/20/2018 at 18:00 (623 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Arrived. Seller agreed to deliver for extra $ being as I have transport issues.

No time for pics now, have to be at work soon.

They're filthy. The extent to which ordinary folk use-and-abuse their machinery is astonishing. My 14-yo set is NIB in comparison.

Seems the washer's display board broke loose from its mount, on the right side of the console. Mrs. Previous Owner had to press hard enough on the start button to crack the overlay, then the board dropped further so she was poking a screw driver down inside to reach it.

We had a chat about the kin-folk so that was nice.

Post# 1008859 , Reply# 40   9/28/2018 at 07:16 (615 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        
AquaSmart Whites Cycle

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The camera I used can record only 25 mins of video at a time, so three parts.

Average-size load, not the maximum it can take. Looks larger than it is due to the camera angle. Detergent added before starting (2 tbsp STPP, 4 tbsp Persil Power Pearls, 2 tbsp Biz powder). 1/3 cup chlorine bleach. No softener.

Whites cycle runs in HE mode (low-water wash, shower rinse) per default but can be set at conventional mode (deep wash and rinse). Conventional mode is selected automatically if bleach dispensing is selected.

Post# 1009041 , Reply# 41   9/29/2018 at 21:55 (614 days old) by IowaBear (Cedar Rapids, IA)        

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I'm highly skeptical of these impeller-type machines but it does a great job turning things over on that mixed whites load.


How does it do on large items like bed sheets?

Post# 1009074 , Reply# 42   9/30/2018 at 03:52 (613 days old) by logixx (Germany)        

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Great videos, as usual. 👍🏻

Dean did a video of the Sheets Cycle. It did well, as one would expect from that large impeller.

Post# 1009122 , Reply# 43   9/30/2018 at 08:29 (613 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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I've tried the Sheets cycle once thus far. Twin-bed sheet set, so small load. It filled to a default high level for the cycle, started agitation, then drained some of the water presumably in an attempt to "feel" some agitation resistance on the smaller-than-expected load which didn't garner much rollover (was still too much water) but it came out satisfactory. Next test of it I'll do a queen-bed set, or maybe the queen and twin sets together. May or may not be a video. Vids are bit of a chore even without editing involved, and it takes hours to upload hi-def material.

Post# 1011831 , Reply# 44   10/22/2018 at 19:02 (591 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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I changed the AquaSmart washer and AeroSmart dryer to the top-of-line LCD control panels, found used via eBay. Those add a bunch more cycles and control options ... but in turn makes finding and selecting cycles and options more tedious since that's done by scrolling through the choices instead of pressing discrete buttons.

The panels are capacitive-touch, not mechanical. Very responsive. I've twice accidentally turned the washer off during a cycle by brushing across Power. Gloss black makes photos tricky.

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Post# 1011944 , Reply# 45   10/23/2018 at 20:38 (590 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        
Regular Cycle & Standard Options

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Regular Cycle operates only in High Efficiency mode.

Cold Faucet and Hot are not ATC, the other temps are ATC (and the target may vary depending on the selected cycle). Well, Hot is 62C (143F) but majority of households don't have the water heater set higher than that.

The adjustable settings on most of the "standard" (non-Lifestyle) cycles can be saved as defaults (separately for each cycle). Except Bleach, Drip Dry, and Delay Start must be selected each time.

Slow spin = 330 RPM
Medium spin = 670 RPM
Fast spin = 1,010 RPM

Drip Dry pauses before the final rinse drain and beeps for attention so items desired to be drip-dried can be removed ... press Start to continue the final spin.

Soak adds a 2-hr soak during the wash period. Some cycles are pre-programmed with shorter soak periods. Most instances the soak can be shortened by pressing the Back button to manually move the cycle along.

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Post# 1011945 , Reply# 46   10/23/2018 at 20:47 (590 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        
Other "Standard" Cycles

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Sheets, Colors, and Easy Iron operate only in Conventional (deep-fill) mode.

Whites, Heavy, Delicate, and Rinse/Spin are selectable for either Conventional or High Efficiency.

Some options are not available with some cycles. Delicate and Easy Iron for example don't allow Warm/Hot or Hot temperature or Fast spin.

The cycle description blurbs (which can be turned off via a system option) alternately appear/disappear during selection.

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Post# 1011946 , Reply# 47   10/23/2018 at 20:51 (590 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        
Bulky Cycles

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Bulky has several sub-choices for specific items. The cycles are hard-coded with specific options, cannot be changed.

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Post# 1011947 , Reply# 48   10/23/2018 at 21:00 (590 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        
Lifestyle Cycles

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Arranged into five categories. All are hard-coded for specific options.

Special -- Handwash, Wool, Jeans

Stains -- Chocolate, Tomato, Blood, Grass, Fruit, Wine

Family -- Comforter (choice of Feather or Synthetic, same as via Bulky), Allergy, Hygiene, Diaper Rinse, Soft Toys

Sports -- Sweaty, Muddy, Shoes, Beach Gear

Tub Clean

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Post# 1011949 , Reply# 49   10/23/2018 at 21:11 (590 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        
System Settings

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Out of Balance Recovery has the machine refill and agitate to redistribute the load if it fails to spin, then beep for help if it still fails.

Choice of 0, 5, or 15 end-of-cycle beeps.

Screen Brightness.

Screen Contrast.

Keylock helps avoid accidental control activation by requiring 3-seconds press on Power and Start/Pause.

Hints Pop-Ups enables or disables those cycle description blurbs.

Language choices: New Zealand, Australia, US English, US Spanish, Canadian English, Canadian French,

F&P phone number and web site for service contact.

Reset machine to factory defaults.

The circle/arrow will be covered in a later post.

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Post# 1011950 , Reply# 50   10/23/2018 at 21:14 (590 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Fifteen screens of helpful hints in case of trouble.

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Post# 1011951 , Reply# 51   10/23/2018 at 21:21 (590 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        
Machine Set-Up

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A menu to set the control panel and motor board together for the machine's dispenser arrangement.

- Detergent & Softener
- Detergent & Bleach
- Detergent, Softener, & Bleach
- No Dispensers

Photo #2 shows a screen that comes up with a key combination that I just discovered today that apparently runs an Installation Test Cycle. I have not yet run it to see what it does.

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Post# 1011956 , Reply# 52   10/23/2018 at 22:02 (590 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Service Menu (Pics 2 through 6)

Warning Status / Fault Status. Warning Status reflects non-fatal faults that can be corrected by user intervention. In the instance of No Hot Water, I had the water heater set at a lower temp than the machine wanted so it complained. :-) Fault Status reports serious errors that require service.

Machine Status displays some basic operational information --
Size = tub/bowl size (MM diameter)
HVDC = motor board high voltage output
WL = water level sensor reading
T = water temperature sensor reading
Target = inlet temperature that the machine wants to attain

Hot solenoid, Cold solenoid, Detergent solenoid, Fabric softener solenoid, Pump, Bleach solenoid are to manually operate those components. Detergent and Softener require hot or cold (or both) be turned on first. Bleach feeds separately directly from the cold side. Pump selects Drain, Recirculate, or Off.

Photo #6 is a special screen that doesn't display except via a special key procedure. It reports a myriad of parameters during machine operation, some of which I don't understand.
Disp is the display board software version.
MC is the motor control board software version.
RPM is the motor rotor RPM reading.
OB probably is whether off-balance is triggered.
WL is the water level sensor reading.
BF is Bowl Float, the water level at which the bowl sensed as floated.
Fill is the water level the machine wants.
Idle is the current cycle function -- agitate/wash, rinse, spin, etc. -- not sure exactly what all it says there.
Time I think is elapsed cycle time, although it doesn't begin counting immediately at the start.
To Go is remaining time to cycle finish.
Mixed is the agitation profile (various terms are involved).
Topup is related to water level control.
The other parameters, I don't know what they mean but some of them change during water level sensing and during agitation.

Photo #7 Control Option
Hot Tub is a flag that is set on a warm or hot wash fill, clears after a cold rinse. Spin speed is restricted to medium (670 RPM) if Hot Tub is flagged. This function allows it to be manually set or cleared for diagnostic purposes.
Restart allows the machine to "restart"/retry a failed function in an attempt to automatically recover from a fault. It normally should be enabled and the machine will "restart" numerous times until it gives up and throws a fault, but can be disabled to assist with troubleshooting a problem more quickly.
Recycle is a diagnostic tool that has the machine run a cycle repeatedly until manually shut off to aid in confirming an erratic problem.

Photo #8 Development Data only appears via a special key combination, and the machine must be disconnected from power to turn it off after it's selected. I have no idea what the parameters indicate.

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Post# 1011958 , Reply# 53   10/23/2018 at 22:22 (590 days old) by henene4 (Germany)        
Best UI ever

With a few exceptions (especially on the comforter cycles - would like these to allow hot), I like the UI basicly in its entirety.

Sadly they sold to Haier.

Imagine they would redesign those now. They could use a huge touchscreen that wouldn't be to expensive by now.

And then they could lay out that entire UI with direct-to-touch tiles. That would make selection much quicker and give a better overview.

All of the selection of the high end model with the convenience of the lower end one.

Post# 1011965 , Reply# 54   10/23/2018 at 23:39 (590 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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I've used the Blanket and Synthetic Comforter cycles. The target warm inlet temperature is 50C in those instances, although there's no onboard heater so the resultant temp in the tub is lower.

Post# 1011967 , Reply# 55   10/23/2018 at 23:53 (590 days old) by henene4 (Germany)        

50C is decent, though a full hot fill would be nice I'd say...

Post# 1011974 , Reply# 56   10/24/2018 at 04:06 (589 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)        

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Very impressing control panel, love all the options and settings. I agree with Henrik about the Hot on Blanket cycle, ditto for the Sheets cycle, but you can work around it. I think any machine would benefit from the versatility of the settings and all the options and cycles. Thanks for sharing Glenn, you did quite a lot of work to get all these pictures.

Post# 1011994 , Reply# 57   10/24/2018 at 11:03 (589 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Sheets cycle allows hot temperature, which I have it saved as such. The description blurb apparently doesn't change.

Post# 1012080 , Reply# 58   10/25/2018 at 03:15 (588 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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I used the Sheets cycle again yesterday. Set of queen sheets with three pillow covers and three pillow cases.

The cycle is kinda goofy. It fills directly to a fixed, somewhat high level (330 on the info screen), which is too much water even for the queen set. May be more appropriate for two standard sets, or maybe two queen. Does not rotate the bowl during fill or pulse it for float-sensing. Agitates at a fast rate for load-sensing purposes when the target fill is reached, then DRAINS some water. The queen set drained down to level of 300 which was still a bit too much IMO. A previous twin set, I didn't check what was the drain-out level but it may have been the same. Agitation then alternates between three patterns for duration of the wash period. Several spin-sprays, deep rinse, final spin.

Post# 1012082 , Reply# 59   10/25/2018 at 03:59 (588 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)        

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Nice that hot is available too. Indeed a bit of an awkward. With several spray rinses and a deep rinse the sheets should be rinsed well. I guess there is no need for an extra rinse.

Post# 1012185 , Reply# 60   10/26/2018 at 14:41 (587 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Wash time / soil level is not adjustable on AquaSmart. User guide advises the 'regular' cycles are 12 to 15 mins. Lifestyle cycles aren't detailed on that point.

I've used Regular in HE mode once thus far. Am otherwise investigating the various cycles for specific loads/fabrics, which run in conventional mode.

Water level sensing for HE mode seems to be based on when the bowl floats, although there is a minimum level.

Conventional mode sensing varies per the cycle purpose. Sheets, as covered above, fills to a specific high level, then apparently drains if necessary to get some fabric resistance sensed on the impeller. Bulky cycles also fill to an initial high level, and may fill higher if the load senses for such.

Jeans, Easy Iron, Whites, Colors fill initially to bowl-float, runs some agitation for sensing, then calculates a higher fill level accordingly. The fill level is re-sensed for a deep rinse, it doesn't just go with the same level as the wash. Fills directly to the target level after sensing ... no futzing around with spurts of filling like many of the HE/impeller machines nowdays.

Probably takes a little more water than Calypso for HE mode. Considerably more in conventional mode although the load isn't always fully submerged and floating ... must have some contact with the impeller for good action. Sheets and Jeans (ran just three pairs) had too much water IMO.

Post# 1012359 , Reply# 61   10/28/2018 at 14:00 (585 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        
Replay Intro

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The curved arrow / Replay setting runs a "video" clip programmed into the display board that describes AquaSmart's features.

Post# 1018410 , Reply# 62   12/18/2018 at 07:56 (534 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        
AquaSmart Sheets Cycle

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The Sheets cycle is goofy. It initially fills to a specific high level (without bowl rotation) regardless of the load size. Agitates for a minute for load sensing, then drains some of the water.

The first time I used the cycle was for a twin set of sheets. Wayyyy too much water on the initial fill. It drained a few inches and too much remained for proper rollover.

The second time was a queen set of sheets. It didn't drain as much as it did on the twin sheets but still a bit too much remained for good rollover.

Maybe it's designed that way to avoid tangling.

So I figured I'd run both sets together and expected maybe it wouldn't drain any water. Surprise, it still drained some, the same amount as it did for just the queen set. But rollover with both sets of sheets was much better.

Note that post-wash spin is at low speed (300 RPM) for extractions between sprays.

High (1,010 RPM) is the default for the final spin but I selected medium for this run (670 RPM).

Part 1 - Wash

Part 2 - Rinse

Part 3 - Final Spin

Post# 1018572 , Reply# 63   12/19/2018 at 23:31 (533 days old) by seedub (South Texas Hill Country)        

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LCB is not dispensed until after wash, while the tub is draining - that's curious...

Post# 1018582 , Reply# 64   12/20/2018 at 02:02 (532 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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seedub: LCB is not dispensed until after wash, while the tub is draining - that's curious...
It does that when the Bleach option is *NOT* selected as a safety function to flush it away in case the dispenser is loaded without selecting the required option.

Bleach is dispensed toward the end of the wash period (before drain) if the Bleach option *IS* selected. See the Whites cycle load videos above (the dispenser flushes 5 times). Presumably the Bleach option ensures a deep fill occurs during the wash period so LCB can be properly distributed through the load. Whites runs in conventional/deep-fill mode so it could handle LCB either way (although it would do the safety flush instead of proper dispensing if the option isn't selected). I have not yet run an HE cycle both with and without Bleach to confirm the operation ... if the wash period is filled deeper at the start, or just toward the end for dispensing.

This post was last edited 12/20/2018 at 04:01
Post# 1019319 , Reply# 65   12/28/2018 at 15:38 (524 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        
Fourteen shirts

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Regular cycle, HE mode, Softener Rinse. Six tablespoons Cheer powder, two tablespoons STPP.

Post# 1021151 , Reply# 66   1/14/2019 at 12:20 (507 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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An example of those tragic dry spots (on a pillow case) that happen when washing in an HE toploader. The clothes don't even get wet!

Or .... maybe it's caused by 7 minutes of 1,010 RPM spin?

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Post# 1023940 , Reply# 67   2/7/2019 at 23:13 (483 days old) by fisherpaykel (BC Canada)        
Dry spots on dark fabric after spin cycle F&P corrugated tub

Glenn I am willing to bet that you are correct that it is the spin at 1010 rpm combined with the corrugated tub, when I have a load with dark all cotton tee shirts against the tub I get dry spots aligned with the drain holes in the valleys of corrugations just like your picture using my Gwl 11 with the same tub. Makes me wonder why they switched to the smooth tub in new models. Since I usually watch the start of the cycle I know the clothes are fully wet and submerged.

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