Thread Number: 76755  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Oiling Centerpost Bearings on Kenmore 70 Series
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Post# 1006151   9/5/2018 at 15:01 (2,058 days old) by candi (Michigan)        

Hello all!

I have inherited my family's Kenmore 70 Series (82372110, woohoo!) that was purchased back in '82. They've been in faithful service since then, and I want to do all I can to keep them up and running.

Not being incredibly mechanically inclined (and a little scared to face facts), I let a metal-on-metal squeak worsen over the last year or so. A couple of times, the washer would reach the rinse cycle but would not drain or spin, in spite of the motor running. After much looking and googling, I found that if I used my hands to turn the inner tub (it seemed stuck and resistant to turning), it would work fine again.

After my last load, I found some yellowish liquid on and under the gearbox. It has never leaked before, and after a brief freak-out, I did some more googling. My suspicion is that it is some type of lubricant, given its color and viscosity.

This brings me to my question: I have read many times here that we can (and should!) lubricate the centerpost bearings. Though I have read several posts that discuss it, I can't make sense of how to do it. Could someone please walk me through the steps? I believe that I am to apply non-detergent, light turbine oil to the top and bottom bearings, but I have no idea where these are or how to do this (hopefully, with the machine upright).

Additionally, I was thinking about adding some of the whirlpool 350572 oil to the gearbox, in case that was the yellow fluid on the floor. I watched a video of a guy doing it, so I feel confident that I can, but I don't know how to check how much I already have, so I will know how much to add.

Thanks in advance for your help!





Post# 1006261 , Reply# 1   9/6/2018 at 13:53 (2,057 days old) by Kenmoreman ( Southern NH)        
Spinning the tub

Tighten up the belt. Replace it if necessary.

Post# 1006360 , Reply# 2   9/7/2018 at 09:04 (2,056 days old) by Candi (Michigan)        
Checking the belt

Thank you for your reply!

I got behind the washer to check the slackness of the belt, and realized I have no idea of what it should be. So, here are two pictures to show what the belt is like normally and when I put a fair bit of pressure on it with a screwdriver (chosen so I could take a decent picture). It’s maybe 3/4” from its unflexed position.


  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 2         View Full Size
Post# 1006441 , Reply# 3   9/8/2018 at 01:50 (2,055 days old) by 114jwh (Vancouver)        

Hi there Candi

Nice to hear you are trying to keep your machine going! I'll preface this by letting you know I'm not an expert but I have worked on a belt drive machine a few times so I'll share my two cents :)

Belt: I believe the belt should deflect about 1/2 inch. The procedure for tightening the belt is to loosen the two motor mounting bolts slightly and use the handle of a hammer to pry the motor enough to correct the tension. You then just tighten the bolts back up. You kind of wedge the hammer handle between the two motor mounting brackets to get the leverage to move the motor a bit which tightens the belt.

Oil on the transmission: When you say you see oil on the transmission, how much are we talking about? A few drops? tablespoon? 1/2 cup? Does the oil appear milky looking? A few drops underneath the transmission is probably not much to worry about but a significant amount, especially if it has a milky appearance, might be a sign of another problem.

Oiling centerpost bearings: Can't help on this one. The only way I know how to oil centerpost bearings is to lower the transmission and fill the cavity above the lower seal with turbine oil. I think I've heard of a method to oil them with the transmission in place but I'm not sure if I've seen it documented. Hopefully others can chime in on this.

Metal on metal sound: The bearings and upper centerpost seals on these machines will wear out over time and its possible they could need to be replaced given the age of your machine (along with the spin tube and agitator shaft). Your spin problem, oil on top of the transmission and this metal on metal sound could all be related to this. The parts are available but its a substantially complicated, labor intensive job that also requires special tools and some mechanical inclination. There are several threads on the forum documenting this procedure and service manuals available.

Adding oil to the transmission: I'd do a bit more diagnosing and discovery before bothering with this step. If the oil is somewhere other than inside the transmission (and its happened suddenly) then you'd want to know why first.


Post# 1006613 , Reply# 4   9/9/2018 at 22:44 (2,053 days old) by bigalsf (Salt Lake City)        
Centerpost Bearings

Hi, from the description you provided it sounds as if both centerpost bearings have seized. Unfortunately they cannot just be oiled; they must be replaced which is not an easy job and does require some specialized tools to do. If you are mechanically adept (or know someone who is) you can download a repair manual for this series of machines from the Ephemera site (see link above). The bearing kits are still available.

One thing to also consider, there may also be some damage to the spin tube where it rides against the bearings. This may also require the replacement of the spin tube & drive pulley assembly. If you are committed to saving the machine, but are reluctant to try the repairs yourself, you will want to seek out a service tech who has experience working on these units and is willing to help (they're out there!)

Regarding the oil on the floor, if it's only a drop or two don't worry. The transmission on these style machines will occasionally drip oil. If it's a considerable amount (more than a tablespoon) the agitator shaft seal at the top of the transmission may be damaged (possibly from the issues surrounding the bearing wear).

Good luck. If you do decide to try the repairs yourself remember you can always reach out to this site if you run into trouble.


Post# 1006651 , Reply# 5   9/10/2018 at 14:38 (2,053 days old) by candi (Michigan)        
Changing the bearings

Thanks guys for taking an interest in my question!

So it looks like it probably is as bad as I feared. In any case, I am committed to this machine (36 years of service breeds loyalty! :)

I watched this video of the restoration of a slightly older machine. I think I could change the bearings myself, if I only have to remove the tubs to access them. (Heck, I'll replace the tub seal while I'm there.)


But, if I have to drop the various drive parts from the bottom, my confidence evaporates.


Post# 1006657 , Reply# 6   9/10/2018 at 15:33 (2,053 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
candi:  But, if I have to drop the various drive parts from the bottom, my confidence evaporates.
Pulling the transmission (and basket drive/brake) is required.

There is a set of bearings and seals inside the top and bottom of the centerpost (which is part of the baseplate to which everything mounts).  Those bearings are for the basket drive tube.  There's a special tool to pull them, but many servicers just pound them out.  The tool is required to set the new bearings and seals into proper position, although there may also be other ways to do that.

Another set of bearings is inside the spin tube, which are for the agitator shaft.  Those are rarely if ever replaced directly as far as I've ever known, rather are included with a new spin tube assembly.


Post# 1006672 , Reply# 7   9/10/2018 at 17:39 (2,053 days old) by bigalsf (Salt Lake City)        

You only have to remove the perforated basket, not the tub. Also, you can also use a hacksaw blade to cut the bearings out if you don't have a tool long enough to reach in and pound them out (just make 2 or 3 cuts into the inside surface of the bearing until it breaks apart).

However, installing the bearings does require some care; they can't merely be pounded in or you will distort the top surface/opening. You will have to either find a bearing installer tool, or consult with a mechanic on what tool you can use as a substitute. I notice you are in Michigan; as Whirlpool is located there, and has manufacturing plants in the tri-state area around you, chances of finding the correct installation tool may be good.

Good luck!


Post# 1006795 , Reply# 8   9/11/2018 at 13:24 (2,052 days old) by candi (Michigan)        
My confidence is buoyed!

I looked at the parts diagram again, and I think I see what you both are talking about: there are two sets of bearings (in the rectangles below) that are accessed two different ways. I'm just happy I don't have to add in messing with the seals on the outer tub to this task.

Now, about this magical bearing-setting tool. I don't even know what terms to search to find it. I don't mind getting it, as having tools makes me feel like a competent fixer-of-things and is a small point of pride :)


  View Full Size
Post# 1006836 , Reply# 9   9/11/2018 at 21:00 (2,052 days old) by bendixmark (Winchester Mass)        
Bearing Replacement

If you were going to get in as deep as replacing bearings you would want to replace the outer tub center seal as well for if it isn't leaking now it will be soon.Those machines were famous for having that seal leak. I repaired hundreds of them in the 90s.Centerpost bearings typically do not seize up they wear down and then the spin tube makes a knocking noise during spin.

Post# 1006861 , Reply# 10   9/12/2018 at 00:43 (2,051 days old) by 114jwh (Vancouver)        

Candi you seem super determined to save your washer! Where there is a will there is a way (or so they say!)

The bearing installation tool has been NLA for a couple decades I believe. You may be able to find one on ebay or if you have an old time appliance repair shop locally you might be able to borrow one. According to my notes the PN for the installation tool was 14542 or 14857. The bearing removal tool is not critical to have as there are other ways to get them out. I've read some folks even say they were somewhat useless so wouldn't worry as much about finding one of those.

There are several threads documenting the rebuild of a belt drive washer. Kevin (potatochips) did a really detailed one recently that even included videos:

www.automaticwasher.org/c...

Here are a few more:

www.automaticwasher.org/c...

www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/...

www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/... & www.automaticwasher.org/c...

www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/...

I would take a look through some of these and determine if you (or someone you know) feel confident enough to take this on first.



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