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Thread Number: 76875
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
I Bit the Buillet -- The Matag A407 is Mine |
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| Post# 1007319 9/15/2018 at 16:11 (2,042 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
Well, I bit the bullet and picked up the A407 for $50. It's now in my garage going through its paces, and it runs like a top. According to Appliance411, it was manufactured in January 1975. It has a few minor issues:
1) someone defeated the lid switch, because it will shift into drain/spin with the lid up. I guess the lid switch is bad. So I'll need to check that out. 2) The transmission has been slinging some oil over the years. I don't plan to do anything about that. 3) I initially connected only hot water to it from the utility room. When I turned it on, it started spitting water out of the cold supply side of the valve. Is that how it is designed? 4) Somewhere between my house and the previous owners house, one of the buttons on the control panel got lost. He's looking for it. 5) The fabric softener cup floats up when the washer is almost full. That makes me wonder if it's filling too much or it's just not seating properly. Or is that what it does when there's no liquid in the cup? 6) it has some minor rust spots inside the wash basket, which I'll address as well I'll give it a good cleaning and touch up some of the paint. Otherwise, I think it's a keeper! I'm happy with my $50 purchase and I didn't have to drive 180 miles for the Whirlpool! | ||
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Post# 1007322 , Reply# 1 9/15/2018 at 16:38 (2,042 days old) by DADoES  (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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 Maytag lid switches of that era stop all action, not just spin. Off-balance trip is integral to the lid switch mechanism so there's no OOB shut-off protection if it's electrically bypassed. The other inlet port must be capped if only one hose is connected ... or use a Y-tap to connect both supply hoses to one source. It may be filling a little much but not unusual that the softener cup floats up a little when empty on high level. | ||
| Post# 1007323 , Reply# 2 9/15/2018 at 16:44 (2,042 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas) | ||
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Post# 1007324 , Reply# 3 9/15/2018 at 16:48 (2,042 days old) by appnut (TX) |
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 Some friends of mine from church had that exact model, along with a DE606 dryer, in harvest gold. They were from Iowa and married and began their family there before moving to Texas in 1985 or so. That washer lasted until early 1990s. Had done countless loads of towels, soccer uniforms, and other family wash. Bearing failure.
The first time I went over to their house, when it wasn't a party, was on a Saturday morning. I walked into the house and was almost at the hallway heading into the kitchen when the washer went from pause into spin. I proclaimed, you have a Maytag! The wife just bust out laughing, I think by this time she was already aware of my appliance "interest". | ||
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Post# 1007333 , Reply# 5 9/15/2018 at 17:55 (2,042 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio) |
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Congratulations!
Nice, and thanks for the pics.
Pic 11 shows routine suds trails/grime from age, wipe it clean and then you'll be able to see if there are leaks every wash or if the grime is just slow routine accumulation. I had a large tub late 70s MAytag, and now have a standard capacity. With no fabric softener in the cup, the cup would rise 1/8 to 1/4 inch, no problem at all. Use the Searchilator here for "motor carriage", you'll get instructions on cleaning/lubing that, simple inexpensive maintenance that will help peak performance on older Maytags. The oil looks very normal, don't fix what ain't broke. Maytag lint filters get dirty quickly, I put mine in the lower rack of my dishwasher about once monthly, cleans up well. Open the lid and check the water air-gap assembly in the upper rear left corner near the water valve, cheaply available on Ebay, often needs replacement. Very easy job. Don't pick too much on the Whirlpool you did not buy, WP and Maytag both made long-lasting machines and are great in any one's collection. Each different brand has good and bad points, and the variety is fun. Congratulations and years of use on your 'Tag. | ||
| Post# 1007341 , Reply# 6 9/15/2018 at 18:57 (2,042 days old) by good-shepherd (New Jersey) | ||
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Looks like the tub cover seal has been leaking a long time which would explain all the rust in the cabinet. Tub cover really needs to come off, rust cleaned up, leak corrected and new stainless tub band bolts. | ||
| Post# 1007343 , Reply# 7 9/15/2018 at 19:16 (2,042 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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I put it to the ultimate test this afternoon. I washed two heavy cotton rugs and I was very pleased with the rollover. However, as it shifted into its first spin, the load was unbalanced and never got up to speed. In the final spin, I redistributed the load and it did fine. The lid switch will definitely need to be replaced.
During the final spin, the drain hose popped off the pump. I slid it back on and tightened the set screw. I'm just glad it was in the garage with the front cover off or there would have been a major flood! I also need to figure out how to adjust the pressure switch because it is overfilling. | ||
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Post# 1007345 , Reply# 8 9/15/2018 at 20:13 (2,042 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City) |
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Post# 1007350 , Reply# 9 9/15/2018 at 21:43 (2,042 days old) by peteski50 (New York) |
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Maytag! | ||
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Post# 1007352 , Reply# 10 9/15/2018 at 21:44 (2,042 days old) by Washerlover (The Big Island, Hawai’i) |
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Lid Switch | ||
| Post# 1007366 , Reply# 11 9/16/2018 at 00:09 (2,042 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
Define over filling. Above the line where the lint filter meets the agitator barrel would be considered overfilling by most. Others consider above the upper most holes in the barrel's side an overfill. The machines I have or have worked on are set to the seam where the lint filter meets the barrel. I personally have never had any item go over the concrete ring at this setting. Then again I don't wash shoe strings or baby socks. Anything that small I would wash in a laundry bag. I have washed rags that have been cut into five or six inch squares and never had a problem. Others report having problems with small items going over the top of the inter basket and either jamming between the tub cover and inter basket or going completely over and ending up somewhere in the outer tub and sometimes down the drain hose to the pump. I don't know exactly what causes this. Possibly an O of B condition that does not correct itself, being unlevel, over sudsing... don't know and I hope to not find out. Some of these things could be considered abuse, as noted above.
On a secondary note, your machine is one of the last machines with the blue strip on the bottom of the console, the blue and grey plastic dial and the simpler lettering on the buttons. The water level button that disappeared during the move will be hard to replace. The wording changed during 1975 along with other features that are not so obvious, basically cheapening the product to increase corporate profits IMO. Keep laundry pre-treatment products and jewelry away from the machine. They will cause damage. That's my two cents. Take it or leave it as you will and good luck with your machine. | ||
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Post# 1007369 , Reply# 12 9/16/2018 at 00:59 (2,042 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay) |
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Not a big deal but --
Shouldn't the timer knob be all chrome instead of the later acrylic type?
Best of luck finding the "Normal" button. Trace your steps, scour your truck or whatever you hauled it home in, and keep after the seller to inspect the area where the washer had been located, where it was loaded, and everywhere in between. | ||
| Post# 1007735 , Reply# 13 9/18/2018 at 20:46 (2,039 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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Control Panel Color
Can someone tell me the name of the secondary color on the control panel? Sometimes I think it is silver/grey. At other times, it looks aqua/teal. I plan to begin cleaning it up this weekend so that I can do touch up painting the following weekend. Any thoughts on paint color for the control panel would be appreciated. I want to keep it looking as close to original as possible.
Also, has anyone ever used oven cleaner to clean up the grime on an older washer. It is really good for getting grime off of showers and bathtubs. I have degreaser but I was wondering if anyone has experience with using oven cleaner. Thanks! | ||
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Post# 1007737 , Reply# 14 9/18/2018 at 21:33 (2,039 days old) by wayupnorth (On a lake between Bangor and Bar Harbor, Maine) |
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Post# 1007767 , Reply# 17 9/19/2018 at 03:22 (2,039 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN) |
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| Post# 1007812 , Reply# 18 9/19/2018 at 11:02 (2,038 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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@ askolover -- I've been thinking about doing that, but I just ordered a new pressure switch hose. I hope that works!
I was thinking of using oven cleaner to clean up all the grung created by the transmission oil. I'll be removing the motor during the cleaning process. The glide bracket needs attention since their isn't any play in it. It will be a fun job to tackle! | ||
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Post# 1007813 , Reply# 19 9/19/2018 at 11:15 (2,038 days old) by RevvinKevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land) |
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Console paint color
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| Post# 1007827 , Reply# 20 9/19/2018 at 15:42 (2,038 days old) by good-shepherd (New Jersey) | ||
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oven cleaner to clean up all the grung Over cleaner is nasty stuff and can remove paint. Trans oil slinging should clean up easy with any mild degreaser. | ||
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Post# 1007900 , Reply# 21 9/20/2018 at 01:32 (2,038 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN) |
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| Post# 1007975 , Reply# 22 9/20/2018 at 17:39 (2,037 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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buttons | ||
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Post# 1007990 , Reply# 23 9/20/2018 at 19:43 (2,037 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions) |
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Post# 1008131 , Reply# 24 9/22/2018 at 00:15 (2,036 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Conn) |
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Degreaser
I've been using LA's Awesome I get at the dollar store. You can use it straight or cut it with water. Its amazing stuff and if you get it in a cut doesnt sting, but of course you should be using latex gloves anyways. I would use it on every inch of that washer except the buttons as it may remove the words. Its a great all around household cleaner and cheap.
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Post# 1008132 , Reply# 25 9/22/2018 at 01:27 (2,036 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City) |
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| Post# 1008179 , Reply# 26 9/22/2018 at 13:00 (2,035 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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| Post# 1008402 , Reply# 27 9/24/2018 at 11:00 (2,033 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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Transmission Seal | ||
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Post# 1008404 , Reply# 28 9/24/2018 at 11:26 (2,033 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA) |
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new style seal be used on the old style...
Unfortunately, the answer to this is no. The 1985 and later seal does not work on the earlier versions of the pitman arm transmissions.
The only way to change the "seal" or o-ring is to do a complete transmission disassembly, pry out the old and more than likely brittle o-ring out and replace. Maytags are wonderful washing machines, but these 40-50 year old o-rings often times give out and no longer hold back the oil as these machines have surpassed the expected engineered life span. Ben This post was last edited 09/24/2018 at 14:10 | ||
| Post# 1008419 , Reply# 30 9/24/2018 at 16:41 (2,033 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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| Post# 1008427 , Reply# 31 9/24/2018 at 17:28 (2,033 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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Anything else? | ||
| Post# 1008432 , Reply# 32 9/24/2018 at 18:31 (2,033 days old) by good-shepherd (New Jersey) | ||
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anything else I might need The nylon pinion gear and lug washer are wear items in the trans but unless they are in really bad shape its fine to reuse them. The gear oil should be Maytag oil or GL-4 gear oil such as Sta-lube. | ||
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Post# 1008440 , Reply# 33 9/24/2018 at 18:59 (2,033 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Rebuilding A MT DC Transmission The most important thing you need is a decent agitator shaft and top cover with decent bearings to have a good rebuild.
These are the reasons that most of our customers get rid of their MTDC washers.
The number one thing that kills these MTDC washers is a bad agitator shaft and top bearings., [ it usually tightens up to the point that it won't agitate any longer ]
The number two thing is a snubber that has lost its pads and has torn up the aluminum damper and the steel base plate.
Number three a transmission that is leaking oil so badly that it is making a major mess and is also interfering with the proper clutching action of the main drive belt.
John L. | ||
| Post# 1008478 , Reply# 34 9/24/2018 at 22:10 (2,033 days old) by hippiedoll ( arizona ) | ||
biggest challenge will be getting the agitator off...
A really good tip shared with me a couple years ago...
1. Remove the lint filter from the top of the agitator. 2. Take a hairdryer, set it at it's highest heat setting, turn it on, and put the blowing end of the hairdryer down into the barrel of the agitator. 3. Leave the hairdryer on, blowing down into the barrel of the agitator, for about 5 minutes. That should be enough time to heat up & soften the agitator. 4. Take the hairdryer out of the barrel, turn it off & put it out of the way. Now reach down under the agitator skirt and try and pull up on the agitator. It should pop off pretty easily, being warmed up from the hairdryer. If not, try the hairdryer again for a little longer. GOOD LUCK! Keep us posted & let us know how that works for you. :o) | ||
| Post# 1008496 , Reply# 35 9/24/2018 at 23:22 (2,033 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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@ hippiedoll | ||
| Post# 1008521 , Reply# 36 9/25/2018 at 09:28 (2,033 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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agitator removal
I tried the hair dryer trick a couple of times this morning for five minutes each (back to back) and it wouldn't budge. I don't want to pull too hard from the base, lest I break the plastic.
I have a couple more tricks up my sleeve. I think I'll try pouring boiling water down the barrel of the agitator and see if that does the trick. If that doesn't work, there's one more trick I'll try before destroying the agitator to get it off! | ||
| Post# 1008559 , Reply# 38 9/25/2018 at 19:15 (2,032 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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Pilot Light Lens
Well, I stupidly broke the pilot light lens when removing the light. Does anyone know where I might find one or can anyone point me to a good substitute? I know those things are used on a lot of different stuff, so surely there must be a source! Thanks for any thoughts or help!
I found a new light but it is useless without the lens since the lens holds the light assemble on. | ||
| Post# 1008598 , Reply# 39 9/25/2018 at 21:47 (2,032 days old) by hippiedoll ( arizona ) | ||
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Eurekastar:
DARN!
Sorry the hairdryer trick didn't work for you. Another thing you can try is shoving a towel down the barrel of the agitator and then pour the boiling water down the barrel so the towel soaks up the hot water & sits at the bottom of the barrel, warming up the paddock to soften it some. After about 5 minutes, try pulling up on the agitator. See if maybe you have luck with that tip? Keeping my fingers crossed for you... :o) | ||
| Post# 1009020 , Reply# 40 9/29/2018 at 19:04 (2,028 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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Agitator from Hell! Well, I tried everything I know to do to get that darn agitator off, including a slide hammer that I borrowed from a friend. However, it wouldn't budge! So I'm in the process of destroying it little by little. It is determined to stay on but I'm slowly winning. | ||
| Post# 1009028 , Reply# 41 9/29/2018 at 20:35 (2,028 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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Success!!! The agitator fought like hell, but it didn't win! It was no match for patience, my Ryobi mutli-tool saw, and a hammer and nail bar. I gave it a blast of PB Blaster and I'll let it set until tomorrow afternoon. Then I'll clean up the shaft and tub nut with a wire brush. We'll see how stubborn the tub nut is!
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| Post# 1009030 , Reply# 42 9/29/2018 at 21:20 (2,028 days old) by good-shepherd (New Jersey) | ||
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We'll see how stubborn the tub nut is! After the battle the agitator put up I would just split the nut with sharp cold chisel and save your strength for the mounting stem. | ||
| Post# 1009069 , Reply# 43 9/30/2018 at 02:34 (2,028 days old) by hippiedoll ( arizona ) | ||
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DANG.... | ||
| Post# 1009189 , Reply# 44 9/30/2018 at 17:27 (2,027 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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What am I looking at? I want to make sure I understand what I'm seeing before I begin chiseling away at the tub nut. There is so much build up that it is difficult to tell if what I'm seeing is the same as what I've seen in a few Youtube videos!
Am I seeing the top part of the mounting stem, then the tub nut and then the washer below it? I brushed away a lot of build up to reveal the lugs on the nut and gave it a few whacks with my spanner wrench and hammer. Of course it didn't budge. I'll try again tomorrow before I try to break the nut with a chisel.
Again, thanks again for any insights! | ||
| Post# 1009208 , Reply# 45 9/30/2018 at 20:04 (2,027 days old) by good-shepherd (New Jersey) | ||
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I want to make sure I understand Yes, you're seeing it correctly, that nut is what you want to split with a chisel. A new one is included with the replacement mounting stem | ||
| Post# 1009626 , Reply# 46 10/4/2018 at 17:35 (2,023 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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Yay! I finally got the spanner nut chiseled off! Because I had to chisel off the spanner nut, I won't be surprised if I end up having to cut off the mounting stem. I have it soaking in PB-Blaster. Tomorrow is a day off, so we'll what happens! | ||
| Post# 1009638 , Reply# 47 10/4/2018 at 19:08 (2,023 days old) by good-shepherd (New Jersey) | ||
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Whew,, that looks like an archeological excavation with all the years of crud on there. Bet that machine saw lots of cold washes in hard water. Don't forget to remove the set screw. | ||
| Post# 1009884 , Reply# 48 10/6/2018 at 16:29 (2,021 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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One More Step Down! It's been a cool, rainy day in the Texas Panhandle but a perfect day to tackle that mounting stem with my angle grinder and a couple of metal cutting blades. I was really afraid that I would cut into the threads on the transmission shaft but managed to avoid that. The boot seal was completely rotten too, so a leak was in its future. I'll remove the outer tub and transmission tomorrow. Monday is a holiday, so I'll tackle the transmission then. Yay! | ||
| Post# 1010046 , Reply# 49 10/7/2018 at 20:51 (2,020 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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Outer Tub Is Out! I finally removed the outer tub this evening, revealing quite a mess that needs to be cleaned up. The tub supports need some extra attention to clean up forty-four years of crud and rust. I had to chisel off the bearing sleeve and discovered that there are THREE relief channels. One was filled with so much crud and grime that it was almost unrecognizable!
I think I'll tackle the filth inside the cabinet, the inner tub, and wash basket before getting into the transmission. All that mess is bugging me!
Thanks again to everyone for all the help and advice too! This has been a fun project! | ||
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Post# 1010076 , Reply# 50 10/8/2018 at 07:39 (2,020 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Great Progress Unfortunately the agitator shaft is so corroded and pitted you need another transmission [ or at least a cover and agitator shaft ] if you want this washer to work for long with a new seal and tub bearing.
We always save good transmissions from the many Maytag's we scrap every year when they are in great condition. This is the challenge of trying save a washer that has been so badly abused by poor washing practices for so many years.
John L. | ||
| Post# 1010109 , Reply# 51 10/8/2018 at 12:47 (2,019 days old) by good-shepherd (New Jersey) | ||
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the filth inside the cabinet Might as well try to unscrew the cabinet from the base at this point, much easier to clean that way. Maybe John could sell you one his salvaged Helical Drive transmissions? | ||
| Post# 1010125 , Reply# 52 10/8/2018 at 15:06 (2,019 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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Transmission Purchase | ||
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Post# 1010129 , Reply# 53 10/8/2018 at 16:03 (2,019 days old) by Combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Transmissions for Maytag helical drive washers | ||
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Post# 1010130 , Reply# 54 10/8/2018 at 16:04 (2,019 days old) by Combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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This post has been removed by the member who posted it. | ||
| Post# 1010133 , Reply# 55 10/8/2018 at 16:52 (2,019 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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Well, the archaeological excavation project turned into a major mining operation! I'll treat the rust with POR-15 and the outside tub should be good to go!
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| Post# 1010134 , Reply# 56 10/8/2018 at 18:05 (2,019 days old) by good-shepherd (New Jersey) | ||
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for a standard tub model. You could swap the top plate from the eBay trans onto your trans case. | ||
| Post# 1010138 , Reply# 57 10/8/2018 at 18:46 (2,019 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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Ebay Transmission This is a photo of the Ebay transmission. How does it look? The seller is asking $60 plus $40 shipping.
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| Post# 1010150 , Reply# 58 10/8/2018 at 20:47 (2,019 days old) by good-shepherd (New Jersey) | ||
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Looks decent, very little corrosion. But who knows what the condition of the bearings are. I'd ask the seller to check for any play on the agitator shaft. | ||
| Post# 1010213 , Reply# 59 10/9/2018 at 15:04 (2,018 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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Well, darn! | ||
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Post# 1010266 , Reply# 60 10/10/2018 at 01:32 (2,018 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Conn) |
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Post# 1010267 , Reply# 61 10/10/2018 at 01:37 (2,018 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay) |
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Post# 1010276 , Reply# 62 10/10/2018 at 05:54 (2,018 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Damaged MT Washer Transmission These are actually very easy to seriously damage if they are dropped on or receive a blow to the input shaft end.
This is why I generally do not like to ship heavy items like transmissions.
Hi Bill, you might ask the seller if he will sell and ship the damaged transmission to you at a reduced price as you really only need the top cover and agitator shaft and you should really change the oil and maybe the lower O ring oil seal anyway.
John L. | ||
| Post# 1010573 , Reply# 63 10/12/2018 at 18:09 (2,015 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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Snubber Pads I am surprised this Maytag wasn't making a terrible racket when I got it! When I removed the snubber today, the pads were nonexistent!
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| Post# 1010605 , Reply# 64 10/12/2018 at 22:54 (2,015 days old) by good-shepherd (New Jersey) | ||
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the pads were nonexistent! They don' treat their washer well down there. How is the damper? | ||
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Post# 1010627 , Reply# 65 10/13/2018 at 07:37 (2,015 days old) by Combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Missing damper pads | ||
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