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Thread Number: 77046
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Kenmore 90 Series |
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Post# 1009673 , Reply# 1 10/4/2018 at 22:30 (2,029 days old) by DADoES  (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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Post# 1009693 , Reply# 2 10/5/2018 at 05:55 (2,028 days old) by appnut (TX) |
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 The 90 series used to be designated for the top of the line Lady Kenmore. If they'd only included the wash action knob with the first generation of Direct Drive LKs in fall of 1986, they wouldn't have been bestowed the nickname Lady Shredmore. These had the timed bleach, fabric softener, and detergent dispensers removed. 10 years too late. Dryer identical to my old one. | ||
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Post# 1009725 , Reply# 4 10/5/2018 at 10:55 (2,028 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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The water supply where the machines were used has a high iron content. Notice the stains on the tub ring under the fill flume. CLR or Lime-a-way to clean the washer basket ... but keep exposure to a minimum so the porcelain isn't damaged ... DO NOT leave is soaking overnight. Dryer is stained from the unstable indigo dye in denim jeans. Sometimes said to be caused by washing them in cold water. The blue color doesn't transfer onto other clothes. | ||
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Post# 1010023 , Reply# 6 10/7/2018 at 15:30 (2,026 days old) by appnut (TX) |
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The lid switch is not seating appropriately and thus the little striker isn't pushing on the lid switch as it should. It won't drain or spin when the lid is open. Try taking a pencil or small screw driver and depressing the lid switch in the little hole when it gets "stuck" and see if it continues on with the cycle. In fact, looking at photo # 4, the switch seems to be pretty far down in the little hole. | ||
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Post# 1010031 , Reply# 8 10/7/2018 at 17:14 (2,026 days old) by Lorainfurniture (Cleveland ) |
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Check under the machine. There should be a spring attached to the back of the tub and connected to the rear base of the frame. If it’s not that the. One of your snubber pads is missing | ||
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Post# 1010041 , Reply# 9 10/7/2018 at 19:40 (2,026 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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KSKenmore: If made sure it is level but he front left leg is solidly in the ground but I can wiggle the machine and that leg appears to give and spring up if that makes sense.The rear legs are self-leveling, adjusted by tilting the machine forward and setting it back down. Sometimes they get stuck. Whack both of them in turn with a mallet (no harder than necessary) to loosen them. 1) The base pedestal has three pads. 2) A skate plate sits atop the base pedestal, slides on those pads. The plate has three more pads set at an angle. 3 & 4) The tub support sits onto the skate plate pads, which allow it to pivot/oscillate. Three springs (red arrow represents one of them) anchor the tub/support to the base pedestal. The fourth rear spring serves to counterbalance the weight of the motor at the front. The mounting hole in the base rail can wear- or rust-through. The fix, assuming the spring isn't missing or broken, is to drill a new mounting hole. Broken/cracked pads (not common) will cause metal-to-metal contact and interfere with movement of the tub. Mishandling during transport can cause the skate plate and/or tub support to shift askew. The body of the lid switch under the top deck may be cracked, which can result in the switch body spreading apart when the actuator tab presses on the switch lever, instead of the switch triggering properly. | ||
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