Thread Number: 77386  /  Tag: Refrigerators
1964 Frigidaire Frost Proof - HELP
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Post# 1013561   11/6/2018 at 22:14 (230 days old) by mariasq15838 (Burien Waahington)        

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Hi,

I recently joined and Iím hoping to find some help.
I bought a pack no 1964 FPD-12TJ refrigerator and matching stove.

The refrigerator freezer works great but Iím a bit concerned about the fridge.
The average temp is 50 degrees and constantly running. The fan works but Iíve noticed itís not blowing very strong.

I donít know what to do.

Do I need a new thermostat and if so, where do I find the parts?

Ps: Iím also in need to then crisper drawer and bottom shelf.


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Post# 1013567 , Reply# 1   11/7/2018 at 00:22 (230 days old) by RP2813 (Too many people know the way)        

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Does the fan blow stronger in the freezer section?  I think the same fan circulates air in both the freezer and fridge sections on these models.  It shouldn't blow as strong in the fridge as it does in the freezer.

 

How cold is it getting in the freezer?


Post# 1013614 , Reply# 2   11/7/2018 at 10:23 (229 days old) by mariasq15838 (Burien Waahington)        

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Yes, the fan is running and blowing but not very strong as it was a couple weeks ago when I had it connected. When I got the set, the dresser was working but 5e fridge wasnít. I had very Littleís luck in finding someone in the Seattle area who knows vintage appliances. I finally found a guy and he and I worked through the manual I purchased online via this website. One wire was disconnected from the light switch. He got that connected nd th fan started blowing and th fridge was about 40-45 degrees and freezer at 0. Mind you the fridge continues to run.
Now, Iíve noticed th freezer is quite cold to where I canít scoop ice cream and the frdge is 50-55.
The fan is running but the blower is barely pushing out cold air.

Do you think I need to unplug and defrost the flow duct? Maybe replace the thermostat?

Another issue I have is the model number in finding parts. The J model was a more petite design and I canít locate parts.

Of course I HAD to have this set and now I just want it running properly to use daily.

Any help or guidance is so much appreciated!!

Maria


Post# 1013624 , Reply# 3   11/7/2018 at 13:04 (229 days old) by RP2813 (Too many people know the way)        

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There are members here who are far more qualified than I am to guide you through this, but if the freezer is getting down to zero -- or cold enough to make ice cream difficult to scoop, but the fridge temp is high, that could indicate an air flow issue.  It doesn't seem like the thermostat would be to blame for this, but again, Frigidaire employed systems that other makes didn't IIRC.  I'm pretty sure your fridge isn't new enough to have an adjustable air flow control that's separate from the primary cold control.

 

When you state that the fridge continues to run, do you mean it never shuts off?  In that case the thermostat is likely the problem (but that still doesn't explain the high temps in the fridge, mind you).  I had a similar issue with my 1957 GE fridge after shutting it off to defrost.  After I turned it back on, it decided to run and run and run.  A replacement universal fit cold control resolved the problem. 


Post# 1013692 , Reply# 4   11/7/2018 at 22:03 (229 days old) by mariasq15838 (Burien Waahington)        

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Yes, the air flow is not like it was when I first plugged it in.
Iím thinking maybe there is ice build up.

As for the refrigerator running, Iím thinking itís a separate issue and needs a thermostat
Iím not sure what thermostat works for my unit and a bit reluctant to order or purchase one online without knowing what is compatible with the J model.

Thanks again for your response!

Hoping for more inputs from Frigidaire GM Aficionados!

Thanks

Maria - Damsel in distress !!


Post# 1013718 , Reply# 5   11/8/2018 at 01:00 (229 days old) by RP2813 (Too many people know the way)        

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If you do need a new cold control, you'll need to seek out a new old stock replacement.  They all work the same, and the one I put on my GE had all kinds of extra mounting pieces to adapt it to fit refrigerators from almost any manufacturer.

 

It's possible an icing issue is causing the airflow problem, and if that's the case, you'll have to figure out what's causing the ice to build up. 

 

At some point, a member familiar with Frigidaires similar to yours will chime in here -- I hope.


Post# 1013932 , Reply# 6   11/9/2018 at 17:58 (227 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

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I have the Canadian equivalent of this fridge which is in a different cabinet that's 32" wide rather than 30" (yours is also a 1965 model, not a 1964 but it was likely made in 1964). I'm not sure if yours is the same but some models had a thermostatic airflow control for the refrigerator section. (by 1966, they were gone in most top-freezer models so this has mostly been used in 1963-65 models).

I just replaced the one in my 1963 bottom freezer as it didn't open at the correct temperature. I have tried to readjust it in the past but it didn't seem to change much. Since the US and Canadian models are different, I'm not sure if you have one or not but if there's one, it's located behind a plastic rectangular panel at the back of the refrigerator liner that's held by 4 screws. Some top freezer models have "Flowing Cold" written on the plastic plate.

Here's a picture of my similar control from 1963 (they changed a bit in 1964).

This one, although it still works probably lost some pressure and it closes the control too quickly when the temps goes down. You can adjust it by loosing the two screws and moving the bulb so the door stays open longer or probably cut the spring so it has less tension (I haven't tried that but I think it should work) but at some point, it will not be possible to readjust it if it keeps loosing it's gas charge. Note that this one has been readjusted to the coldest position, the factory adjustment is usually with the bulb further away from the air door which is in the round tube section at the top of this picture. Also, this control is mounted with the bulb in an horizontal position, not vertically like in the picture I took.



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Post# 1013934 , Reply# 7   11/9/2018 at 18:15 (227 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

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Here it is in the position it should be adjusted from the factory. At room temperature, it still stays fully open but it closes too fast (when the temperature in the fridge is at about 46įF). Adjusting the thermostat knob has almost no effect on the temperature in the refrigerator secion as it's regulated by this device.

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Post# 1014386 , Reply# 8   11/13/2018 at 20:32 (223 days old) by mariasq15838 (Burien Waahington)        

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Hmmmm..
Yes, youíre right it is a 65!
This is what I have in the back of the fridge.
The flowing cold is where the fan blows from the freezer. Is the temp control behind the light bulb?


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Post# 1014726 , Reply# 9   11/16/2018 at 22:53 (220 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

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I bet the thermostatic control is behind that plastic panel. The aluminum cover is likely the cover that goes over the sensor for the bulb.

If the airflow control door stays closed, you can try to adjust it as I described to see if it opens at lower temperatures, if readjusting to the coldest position still isn't enough to keep the airflow going until the temperature in the fridge drops below 40į, you could manually open it with something that blocks it open or partially opened. In most refrigerators, this control is manual rather than thermostatic. It's just a knob or a thumbwheel that you turn to adjust the airflow (and the temperature) in the refrigerator.

Once you remove the cover, to see how this control has an effect on airflow, just press on the door light switch so the blower restarts and feel the changes in the airflow as you manually move the control that actuates the airflow control door (the door light switch in many models also shuts off the blower when the door is open).


Post# 1014727 , Reply# 10   11/16/2018 at 22:57 (220 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

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I just found a picture of that airflow control in the previous year tech talk manual that I had scanned. Your model is shown on the left.

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Post# 1014911 , Reply# 11   11/18/2018 at 14:37 (218 days old) by mariasq15838 (Burien Waahington)        

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Ok!

I opened the panel and it looks one it was 3/4 open not at factory.
Fan blowing is still somewhat lame, so Iím going to wait and see if there is a change on temp.
Do you know the part number of where I could find a new or good used climate control bulb?

While I was working on it, I opened the temp adjustment knob.
Does anything look odd ?

The 2 small plastic knobs to the right of the main temp control is somewhat concerning to me. I feel like maybe they are not at proper adjustment.

Thank you so much for the help!
I truly love this set and want to keep it for a long time!!



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Post# 1014921 , Reply# 12   11/18/2018 at 16:29 (218 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

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Anemic fan would be a concern for me.


Post# 1015028 , Reply# 13   11/19/2018 at 13:17 (217 days old) by mariasq15838 (Burien Waahington)        

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I had the fan and blower motor looked at and itís working fine.
Iím not sure what it is...
any suggestions on where to find the parts online or on Seattle area?


Post# 1015439 , Reply# 14   11/22/2018 at 16:50 (214 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

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On the picture you sent, the air flow should be at the maximum for the refrigerator. If you move the white disc that's currently sitting on the stopper manually to the right (away from the stopper), the air flow will decrease. Do that while you hold the door light switch otherwise the fan won't work and there won't be any air flow to feel in the outlet.

The bulb can't be adjusted further but if the air flow drops as the temp inside the refrigerator gets colder (but still not cold enough). You can block it open so it remains in the position it's in all the time. If that doesn't make the refrigerator section colder, you know there's something else that's wrong!

Monitor the temperatures in the freezer, it should remain close to 0įF most of the time (it will be warmer after the defrost periods).

Of course, many other things can be wrong, the defrost system needs to work fine and the refrigerating system also needs to work fine. These refrigerators defrost twice a day, when it happens, you can hear a click and the compressor stops. After that, you can hear cracking sounds from the ice thawing on the evaporator. If you look with a flashlight through the inlet grilles at the bottom of the freezer, you can probably see the evaporator fins with frost on them. When it defrosts, the ice should them and you should see the shiny metal fins before the compressor restarts and the fins get frosty again. That means the freezer is defrosting.

Removing the freezer floor and the triangular plastic housing (it's usually held by 4 screws) at the back gives access to the evaporator and to the blower that circulates the air in the refrigerator and the freezer. There are more plastic housings that can be removed behind the white one to see what's happening around there.

If you're fine removing more parts by yourself, you can inspect the evaporator section, look for a correct frost pattern on the evaporator (if there's frost just on a part of it, the system is likely low on refrigerant).

Unlike the part you removed, if you remove the freezer floor, be careful as there are electrical wires around there and there are also more critical parts that you don't want to break. I'd suggest disconnecting the fridge to do it.


Post# 1015440 , Reply# 15   11/22/2018 at 16:55 (214 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

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BTW, the two plastic screws on the cold control are for the cut-in and cut-out adjustements of the thermostat.

If the compressor cycles on and off normally (it should be on most of the time and the temperature shouldn't rise too much before it restarts), I wouldn't play with those first!


Post# 1016156 , Reply# 16   11/28/2018 at 21:35 (208 days old) by mariasq15838 (Burien Waahington)        

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Thanks for your help !
I wonít be able to get to it until Saturday!
I will post and advise.

Note: freezer has crystallized!


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Post# 1016158 , Reply# 17   11/28/2018 at 21:44 (208 days old) by RP2813 (Too many people know the way)        

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Hmmmm.

 

If it's frost-proof, that shouldn't be happening in the freezer. 


Post# 1016164 , Reply# 18   11/28/2018 at 22:29 (208 days old) by mariasq15838 (Burien Waahington)        

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Oh and Iím picking this up next weekend in Portland.
Iím thinking I can use it for parts.
Do you know he measurements of th proper drawer for the 12TJ?
I donít think I will be able to use the double drawers as they may be too tall.

Thanks!
Maria


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Post# 1017927 , Reply# 19   12/13/2018 at 21:09 (193 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

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I don't know the drawer measurement. My Canadian FPIC-12TJ has two drawers and it has a wider 32" cabinet. The US 12TJ have a single hydrator drawer which is much larger but I never had one of those (the US version was not available here in Canada). Maybe they use the same size as some of the later non-frost-proof single door models like the D-116N I used to have.

Post# 1017929 , Reply# 20   12/13/2018 at 21:10 (193 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

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BTW, did you find out what was happening to your fridge? The defrost system must have a problem!

Post# 1018144 , Reply# 21   12/15/2018 at 18:56 (191 days old) by mit634 (Sydney)        

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It's possible your defrost timer has stopped working, causing the evaporator to ice up which then reduces air flow and the ability of the whole system to cool effectively.

It's a fairly easy job to replace. I had to do this on my 1968 Frigidaire frost proof.


Post# 1018504 , Reply# 22   12/19/2018 at 12:50 (187 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

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It could be the defrost timer or the heater itself. The timer can be manually cycled on for a few minutes to see if the defrost works... If it stopped advancing, you need to cycle it back to the normal mode after about 1/2 an hour so it refrigerates again. If the ice has not melted, it's likely the heater that's the problem.

Post# 1018506 , Reply# 23   12/19/2018 at 13:43 (187 days old) by RP2813 (Too many people know the way)        

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The defrost heater/cycle seems to be the weak link in these units.  There's at least one extensive thread on the repair process that I recall following here.


Post# 1018519 , Reply# 24   12/19/2018 at 15:30 (187 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

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you're going to part out a top mount  turquoise 'fridge? Do it work?





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