Thread Number: 77470  /  Tag: Vintage Dryers
Maytag Dryer DE306 Timer Question
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Post# 1014485   11/14/2018 at 22:36 (1,988 days old) by blackcrk (Jeffersonville)        

Hello everyone,

For full disclosure, I'm posting here in a bit more of a panic than I should because the wife is threatening to retire our Maytag DE306 dryer in the next week or two if I can't diagnose and fix what I think is likely a simple problem.

This dryer (DE306) and a Maytag A606 washer came with our house when we purchased it in Sept 1978. They have been extremely reliable work horses - perhaps I've had to make a half dozen or so repairs to them over the last 40 years - the washer required a motor replacement and a new timer, the dryer required new belts, a new heating element, and an over temperature sensor.

The current problem with the DE306 is that the dial spins freely in both directions unless you push it in. So you go from normal to delicates to permanent press with no clicking. If you press and turn, the dryer starts and seems to work properly - you just have no idea what time you are selecting or which type of drying you are selecting.

I believe that the timer itself is fine, I think that perhaps the "do-hickey" little tab that moves the timer to the setting you want has broken.

I made an attempt to remove the dial and see what might be going on inside, but the dial didn't pull off easily and I didn't want to break it more than it already is.

It's a lot easier to tear into something when it is in total failure - when there is nothing to lose, but the dryer is still working, and I don't want to make things worse until I better understand what's behind that 45 year old dial and the timer that still appears to be working.

Any thoughts on how I should proceed?








Post# 1014487 , Reply# 1   11/15/2018 at 00:37 (1,988 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

Maybe this will help you compare components associated with the dryer timer control.  It could be that part number 2-11065 or 2-11605 is the culprit.

 

Maytag DE406


Post# 1014508 , Reply# 2   11/15/2018 at 07:28 (1,988 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Timer Problem On A MT DE306 Dryer

combo52's profile picture

You remove the timer knob and dial by popping off the little metal cap in the center of the knob and then unscrewing the nut under the cap.

 

It sounds like the knob itself is broken, but it could be the timer, if the knob is broken you might be able to epoxy the pieces back together or try finding a new knob.

 

Let us know what you find, John L.


Post# 1014614 , Reply# 3   11/15/2018 at 21:35 (1,987 days old) by blackcrk (Jeffersonville)        

I want to apologize to RP2813 and combo52 for replying to your posts by replying to my own thread. I wanted to respond to both of you individually and thank you individually for getting back to me, but after 10 minutes of looking for how to reply to your posts, I still haven't found a way to do that (no reply option showing - perhaps a browser issue?)

So, to RP2813 - thank you so much for your post. 2-11065 (the spring) looks fine. I'm confused about what 2-11065 is, I was unable to find the part on my dryer - is it possible that because my model number is a 306 and not a 406 that 2-11065 doesn't apply? When I removed the dial I had a total of 4 parts - the center cap, a metal keeper that holds the dial on the timer shaft, the dial, and the spring.

To combo52 - thank you for responding to my post. The center cap popped right off as you instructed but instead of a nut I had a metal "keeper" that held the dial on to the timer shaft, but it came apart easily .

To RP2813 and combo52 - after looking at the backside of the dial, I think that the problem is just the dial.

I hope what I'm about to post makes sense (a picture is worth a thousand words for this kind of thing), but let me try to describe it.

Looking at the back side of the dial, the plastic appears to be in pretty good shape, but what looks like the metal that should protrude through the dial and engage with the two "T" arms on the timer is basically broken away. The metal is recessed by as much as a quarter of an inch toward the front of the dial and is rough and irregular clearly showing that pieces of metal have broken away.

I hope my description makes sense, and if not, please let me know.

At this point, I think I just need to buy a new dial/knob.

I'll wait for your relies before placing an order.

Best,

Blackcrk







Post# 1014620 , Reply# 4   11/15/2018 at 22:17 (1,987 days old) by blackcrk (Jeffersonville)        

To RP2813,

After reviewing the parts list again, I see that part 2-11065 is my "keeper" that holds the dial onto the timer shaft. The proper name for my "keeper" is the retaining clip. The parts list photo is a little confusing as the dial as shown seems to be upside down in relation to the other parts.

I'm also finding that the dial that I think I need is no longer available on the larger appliance parts websites.



Post# 1014623 , Reply# 5   11/15/2018 at 23:31 (1,987 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
You replied correctly.  Replies are to the thread/topic as a whole, not to specific posts within it, and are added at the bottom as it goes along.  Reference a specific post in the thread by Post # and/or Reply # if you want to directly address a point in it.


Post# 1014632 , Reply# 6   11/16/2018 at 02:19 (1,987 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

Sorry I couldn't be of more help, but it sounds like you found the problem.  You may have to search ebay for the correct dial, or maybe someone here has a spare.  Major retailers don't carry anything this old.  The serial number on your dryer may help to figure out the correct part number and which model numbers its used on.  I highly doubt that the 306 and 406 dials are much, if at all, different, but others here will know for sure.  Usually the differences between close model numbers (first digits) are more about buttons for heat settings and such than about timer dial graphics.

 

After John/combo52 posted, I realized that the part 2-11605 was the retaining clip/nut, which wasn't likely going to turn out to be the source of the problem.  Why Maytag gave the spring and the retainer part numbers that will render anyone temporarily dyslexic is beyond me.

 

I hope you can fix this dryer.  Anything you buy new will not last a fraction as long as your Maytag has.


Post# 1014721 , Reply# 7   11/16/2018 at 21:21 (1,986 days old) by blackcrk (Jeffersonville)        

Hello everyone,

Thanks to everyone that responded to my posts. You all have been very helpful.

I pretty much have determined that finding a new replacement knob/dial for my DE306 dryer is unlikely. But I did find a couple of used combination timer/dials on Ebay for under $50. I'll be finishing up my search in the next day or so.

The Dial part number is 3-2829, and it's the same knob/dial assembly for the 406 and 306 dryers as far as I can tell.

I'm not quite ready to give up on the dryer even if I can't find a dial in the very near future.

Tomorrow we will have a crucial test - the wife will be washing a large load of towels. My job is to demonstrate that the dryer is still working by drying those towels in the dryer without setting the house on fire.

But, as I look at my dryer dial, I see 3 different drying modes - "Air Fluff", "Permanent Press", and "Regular Fabrics".

I used to think that there was some temperature difference between the 3 different cycles, but as I look through all of the diagrams, I think that the difference between "Air Fluff" and the other cycles might just be the maximum time allowed for the dry cycle?

Just to be clear, I don't have a problem with that, but I'm thinking that when the timer is in the off position, that would be the only off position, and the 3 fabric indications are just limiting the maximum time allowed for the drying cycle?

Does anyone know if I'm off base here?

Thanks again to all of you. I think that I will be able to keep this dryer going for another decade or more thanks to your help.








Post# 1014724 , Reply# 8   11/16/2018 at 22:19 (1,986 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        

combo52's profile picture

Hi Edward, There are three OFF positions on you timer, you are correct that there is no temperature difference between PP and regular.

 

The only difference between PP&regular is PP has a 7 minute cool down period and regular has about a 3 minute CDP [ both are really too short to be completely effective, but Maytag was never know for great performance ]

 

You should be able to find a good used dial and knob, or you could epoxy yours back together.

 

You will not get another decade out of this dryer without doing a number of repairs unless you are only doing 2 or 3 loads a month, but when you finely change to a slightly newer WP or KM [ or even a newer Maytag dryer ] you will wounder why you kept this dryer so long.

 

John L.


Post# 1014728 , Reply# 9   11/16/2018 at 23:16 (1,986 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)        
Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain*

rp2813's profile picture

A matched set is worth keeping together if you're looking at these machines all the time because a matched set provides a more finished look and is aesthetically pleasing. 

 

Our '70s Maytag DG806 (HOH) was the best, fastest dryer I've ever used.  Four dryers later, I still miss it.  HOH indicates "Halo of Heat."  This system had the lint screen located on the rear of the drum.

 

 

*Until you really have to replace your dryer.  Then a Whirlpool sourced machine would be the right choice.



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