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Thread Number: 77838
/ Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
Es Lebt. Es Lebt! Meiner waschmaschine Lavamat Toplader |
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Post# 1018680 12/20/2018 at 22:02 (1,946 days old) by Launderess  (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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No, not Frankenstein, but did have a bit of doing with electricity!
After having that Lavamat sitting there haunting me for months finally got around to sorting things out electrical wise. Managed to nab a frequency/voltage converter at a very good price and it arrived earlier this week. The thing is not very powerful (1 KvA) but wanted to see if the toplader would even accept current from such a thing before spending dear on something larger with more power. Had been warned that some European appliances with electronics don't like "dirty" current, and thus was worried about the dreaded "EHO" error still appearing after having spent dearly on a transformer. Then where would one be with both things lying about spare haunting me. So here I am with this: | ||
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Post# 1018681 , Reply# 1 12/20/2018 at 22:12 (1,946 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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Beyond testing that unit would even power up, ran drain/pump and spin cycles. All went uneventful and seemed to work as designed.
Am rushed off my feet getting ready for the upcoming holiday so likely won't get time to play further until maybe sometime after Christmas. Obviously using the heating function is O-W-T; out. But will run at least a rinse cycle (which shouldn't engage the heater), to not only clean things out a bit, but see how machine copes with a full cycle. Having done some research on these cold fill only machines (various English, French and German websites), how they will respond to wash temps beginning higher than what is set seems to vary. Know with my AEG Lavamat if water temp is reached too fast and or otherwise thermostat isn't used for a determined range of cycle; the thing aborts cycle early decreasing total wash time by ten or more minutes. Standard advice seems to be not to do this because it "confuses" the washer and throws off programs. Things like AEG's "40-60" mix use special profiles including heating that are designed to give results. Stain is another feature that seems to depend upon temp being reached at a certain time, though am not quite sure. To keep from frying the transformer at worst and blowing fuses at best ideally the thermostat won't engage at all. That is if set to "30C" but with incoming tap water around 40C the washer will sense this if not off the bat or soon enough not to pull huge amounts of current. | ||
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Post# 1018690 , Reply# 2 12/21/2018 at 04:39 (1,946 days old) by mrboilwash (Munich,Germany) |
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Congrats, but running a major appliance like a washing machine without proper ground is a very dangerous setup.
Make sure not to touch the washer`s chassis anytime when it`s plugged in as seen in picture #5 and 6. Better look for an adequate adapter or at least add a grounding wire. Would hate to see you electrocuted if anything went wrong. | ||
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Post# 1018691 , Reply# 3 12/21/2018 at 05:38 (1,946 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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On it!
Thank you for the concerns. Glad you noticed.
Washer has standard German plug seen here: www.quora.com/Why-does-Ge... Meaning it can be grounded either via third "pin" or from metal tabs on plug. Have put out a call to find if simply inserting a "ground" pin into plug will suffice. Or, can go the AEG North America route and simply remove current plug and replace with a new that suits including ground. My AEG Lavamat 88840 has an aftermarket NEMA 20A 250v plug which was obviously done by cutting off original. Have done this several times before and so often may open up a side business. *LOL* www.automaticwasher.org/c... | ||
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Post# 1018710 , Reply# 4 12/21/2018 at 09:01 (1,946 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands) |
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Post# 1018850 , Reply# 5 12/22/2018 at 16:49 (1,944 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD) |
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YAY! I am happy for you. | ||
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Post# 1018890 , Reply# 6 12/23/2018 at 02:13 (1,944 days old) by earthling177 (Boston, MA) |
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Excellent! Congratulations!!! | ||
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Post# 1018897 , Reply# 7 12/23/2018 at 05:46 (1,944 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN) |
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Post# 1019122 , Reply# 8 12/26/2018 at 09:43 (1,941 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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Pity of it all is
That there is a way to make this washer run on 60hz from factory. Well at least one assumes so going by my Lavamat 88840.
Loading the machine other night for a wash glanced at the rating/information plate. It clearly says 2100 watts at 50hz for 10 amps. Pretty much same as the toplader. Thus *something* is done to make those German machines run on North American 230v at 60hz.
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Post# 1024898 , Reply# 9 2/17/2019 at 11:21 (1,888 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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Kaput!
Spent much of morning cleaning up the Lavamat toplader including running a few rinses then a hot water wash product to scrub things out.
Washer went through paces lovely, nice bit of kit I thought to myself, then came the first wash load. After putting in the wash, setting program, pushed "start", and machine began to fill; that is all she would or rather could do. Soon as motor began to turn drum the converter threw a fault code. Reset and tried again but all was same. Converter code says "abnormal current". Which one takes to mean motor is drawing more power than the converter can supply so thing is cutting out to protect itself. Tried again with a much smaller load (few pairs of flannel pants, and a hoodie; same result. Put things into the other AEG and toplader goes back into its' cubby. Will contact customer service for converter on Monday but am nearly certain reply is going to be thing is under powered. Oh well, live and learn, that's what I say. Thankfully only gave very little for this converter as an experiment. At least know the machine will work in this manner, now just have to save my pennies and keep on the look out for a more powerful unit at good price. | ||
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Post# 1024901 , Reply# 10 2/17/2019 at 11:42 (1,888 days old) by vacbear58 (Sutton In Ashfield, East Midlands, UK) |
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Converters
Laundress
Have you considered having not one converter but two wired in parallel. I had a similar issue with step down converters to allow me to run the half dozen or so American and Canadian vacuums I have here. A single step down transformer of suitable capacity was quite a bit more money than two of lower capacity which in combination had a slightly higher capacity that the single unit. A picture will explain better than I can, and it works!
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Post# 1024908 , Reply# 11 2/17/2019 at 11:57 (1,888 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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Thanks luv
My issue is one needs both a converter and voltage transformer.
Voltage converters have in spades. In fact after some disasters settled down with two from a highly recommended brand, and have had no troubles since. Can run whatever I fancy, ironers, other AEG washer, the lot. This converter is rated for 1KvA at 4.1 amps on 208v-240v. Washer motor only draws 250w washing and 350w for spinning. Neither is > 2 amps which is well within specs. That machine will run empty, but not loaded tells me it has something to do with power draw when motor is under load. Soon as took laundry out and reset machine to rinse and spin, it did so without bother. | ||
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Post# 1024910 , Reply# 12 2/17/2019 at 12:19 (1,888 days old) by vacbear58 (Sutton In Ashfield, East Midlands, UK) |
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I understand what you are saying but the principle should still hold good if you had two converters wired as shown.
I would imagine the problem is a power surge to overcome the inertia of the drum when it is in the resting position and indeed the problem my even be more pronounced when rinsing when there would be even more water in the drum leading to greater inertia | ||
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Post# 1024913 , Reply# 13 2/17/2019 at 12:42 (1,888 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany)) |
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Yeah, worst case the motor draws up to short circuit current of the motor windings on startup for a verry brief period. Dunno the specs of this motor, but guessing this could be 10A or even significantly more. Without load, the current draw there gets lower quicker then with a load. | ||
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Post# 1024938 , Reply# 15 2/17/2019 at 15:30 (1,887 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany)) |
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German grammar Not to worry, my grammar is anywhere between "superb" and "second week learning the language" for both german and english, depending on mood, state and degree of rush I am in. And one of that is my native language.... | ||
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Post# 1024941 , Reply# 17 2/17/2019 at 15:52 (1,887 days old) by mrboilwash (Munich,Germany) |
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Same here, would never dare to insist on perfect grammar.
As a native Bavarian who is not a bit ashamed of speaking the dialect some might say my German grammar is even worse than my English. Every attempt of anyone to speak in my language is highly appreciated. If I don`t get what they mean I can still ask further questions. When I arrived at the central station for the first time in my life in Paris I needed to buy a couple of different tickets for the metro. I decided to go to a counter instead of a vending machine. My French is really poor but Gosh can you imagine how proud I was when the guy gave me exactly the tickets that I needed. | ||
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Post# 1024944 , Reply# 18 2/17/2019 at 16:27 (1,887 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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Rating plate says 10amps max
But one assumed much of that was for heaters. Guess am proven wrong. Curses, foiled again......
Well at least the thing is cleaned out for most part now. Don't know what previous owner was laundering in this machine but am finding all sorts of bramble like bits inside machine. Shame can't get things going, this washer is nearly new, just like my other AEG when it arrived. | ||
| Post# 1024957 , Reply# 20 2/17/2019 at 21:12 (1,887 days old) by PassatDoc (Orange County, California) | ||
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I am convinced that my ancestors left Ostpreußen in the 1860s to seek a better life in America----they were fleeing from German grammar!! | ||
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Post# 1024972 , Reply# 22 2/17/2019 at 23:39 (1,887 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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@henene4
Thank you for detailed information, quite useful.
Much of it one had already knew or worked out over the years. When one has several German appliances requiring 208v-230v power and so forth, one does learn. *LOL* All dealers in converters (voltage, frequency) that one has seen go into detail about what can and cannot be done, how to size load to match voltage requirements and so forth. They are most particular in explaining about things like air conditioners, refrigerators, washing machines and other appliances with motors that can cause huge rushes of current at initial start-up. This particular converter is on the puny side. At only 1KvA it can give near 5amps, which clearly isn't enough to power the heaters, but thought might squeak through a wash. Again before investing serious money on something remotely appropriately sized wanted to see if the swinehund machine would actually accept such power. If it threw another EHO or whatever code demanding "pure" 50hz, it would have been sold on, and used the converter for my kaltmangel/heissmangel. This being said since washer will operate without laundry, there must be a sweet spot in loading. That is obviously 5.5 kilos of cottons/linens simply won't work, but maybe less? Hardly seem likely to haul this machine out for just one wool jumper, but maybe when have time will see what there is to be done. Meanwhile will simply keep one's eyes out for a converter with proper heft for the job at hand. | ||
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Post# 1024978 , Reply# 24 2/18/2019 at 01:37 (1,887 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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Ours is GoHz as well. They do offer converters up to 4Kva, 5Kva and above, but all are very dear. Hence reason for pouncing on one for *very* little money.
They receive queries from all over world about running washing machines from 60hz to 50hz, and vice versa. Most common response is pretty much "well you can, but the converter will cost as much or more than a new washing machine". CLICK HERE TO GO TO Launderess's LINK | ||
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Post# 1024980 , Reply# 25 2/18/2019 at 01:54 (1,887 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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Aside from the electrical drama
Have to say the AEG Lavamat toplader is a nice bit of kit.
First the thing is virtually silent during operation. All one hears are muffled sounds of sloshing water and laundry tumbling about. Spin cycles, well they are what they are but on the whole rather quiet as well. Sadly this unit does not seem to have a feature which automatically repositions drum "right side up" after cycle is complete. Or maybe it does and haven't gotten around to noticing. Having twice having to remove wet laundry involved griping a hot and slippery wet tub, then trying to turn it so could get door flaps in proper position. Once that was done and flaps open tub remained in place. It does seem everything is controlled off the PCB board. Swear can hear "clicks" as the board stops and reverses the drum. Like my other Lavamat this washer does not have a cycle guarantee. It will minus out time if water heated faster than it should, only this machine shows such display at end of cycle. A thirty minute "30c" Cottons/Normal wash cycle seemed to go well. That is unlike the other AEG it washed for set time (or so I thought), and went onto rinses. Glanced over at display while passing washer and it read around 20 or less minutes remaining. Went back about my business but when glanced over again a bit later cycle was complete and display read "0". Ran the sums and about 14 minutes was deducted. This is not good. | ||
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Post# 1024986 , Reply# 27 2/18/2019 at 05:09 (1,887 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands) |
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I agree with Henrik, the AEG (and other Electrolux brands) are the best buy of the European made brands. It's a pity Bosch stopped making them, they have made decent products in the past.
My mother had a Zanker, so an AEG product with just another label on it. I noticed indeed that the automatic repostioning of the drum didn't work very well. You often needed to turn the drum yourself. The highest spinspeed (1300rpm on hers) was only achieved at the end, I haven't clocked it but it wasn't very long I'm sure. Thomson-Brandt, once another big manufacturer went bankrupt soon after merging with Moulinex. After that the brand was sold on a few times, it's part of Cevital nowadays, a company in Algeria. Their toploaders (Brandt, Thomson, Vedette) are manufactured in Algeria nowadays. Candy/Hoover has toploaders too, but unfortunately the company was taken over by Haier and their toploaders are made in China nowadays IIRC. | ||
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Post# 1024991 , Reply# 28 2/18/2019 at 06:10 (1,887 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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Post# 1024992 , Reply# 29 2/18/2019 at 08:04 (1,887 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands) |
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Post# 1025067 , Reply# 30 2/18/2019 at 22:48 (1,886 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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*Fingers Crossed Lads*
Another day, and am in for the kill.
Loaded up the toplader with two pillow slips (poly satin), and two synthetic thermal pullovers. Since none of these are cotton shan't absorb much if any water. Set washer to "pflegeleicht", then hit start. Waited until after machine filled before adding detergent, (am not wasting any more product in case this experiment goes like the others yesterday), and thus far she's bang on! Washer filed a bit, did the AEG "load calculation tumble", added more water and began cycle. Waited about three minutes then stopped washer to add detergent. So far am about ten minutes into a 1:13 hour cycle and no issues. According to meters on converter washer goes no higher than about 3.4 amps while tumbling. At the pauses things of course are nil. Power wise she's pulling nothing higher than a bit over 220v. Guess am correct in presuming this converter doesn't have the oomph to supply proper power for a full sopping wet load of 5.5kg cottons/linens. Or likely anything else nearing such as a heavy wool blanket, vintage linen sheets or whatever. Until one can supply a more powerful converter this will have to do; now it is just a game of deciding what loads can and cannot go. Several shirts? Maybe. Several pairs of jeans? Think not. Happily have the Miele and other AEG along with the Maytag and Hoover, so am spoiled for choice. Will update once cycle completes. Stay tuned! | ||
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Post# 1025069 , Reply# 31 2/18/2019 at 22:50 (1,886 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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Oh and I was right.
All drum movements are controlled off the PCB board. There are very audible clicks as drum is stopped and restarted in reverse.
Wrong on the drum positioning. Machine does have it, as found out when stopped unit to add detergent. Could hear washer messing about attempting to align tub opening. However it was all for naught; weight of wet washing will decide if things line up or not. That is the machine *may* get the drum right, but it does not fix things into position. | ||
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Post# 1025097 , Reply# 32 2/19/2019 at 12:06 (1,886 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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Well that's sorted
Did another load after first (delicates), and both went without a hitch.
So now it becomes a question of finding the sweet spot; that is loads that will work for the time being. Must say am impressed with the rinsing in this AEG toplader. Was going to activate the "extra rinse" setting, but find machine does well enough (so far) with normal profile. In aid of clearing out whatever is festering in the pump and or getting the pong out of washer (from being shut up for so long); am trying to run many loads. Wiped down the boot and top lid seal with a bit of vinegar (and scrubbed the latter with a small brush) to get at bits of mould, and again to freshen things up. This morning after leaving lid up overnight for things to dry out, machine does smell better. Most of the pong is gone. | ||
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Post# 1025105 , Reply# 33 2/19/2019 at 15:23 (1,885 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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Henrik was right of course
Had long conversation with technical support and as one presumed unit is woefully undersized to cope with full motor load from washer. Will need something in the 5KVA range or above.
Converter is operating as it should; cutting itself off as means of self-protection against sudden in rush/spike in current. Am not telling veteran appliance people on this forum something they don't already know; but for others.... Washing machine and other motors can draw sudden high in rush in current. Usually this is when under load and starting. Tech ran calculations based upon ratings for this motor (about max 350 watts at 2.8 amps when spinning) and figured out five to six times that would be needed in a converter to handle a full load. This gets you to about 12 amps or so required. Tried again earlier today with a load of bed sheets (4lbs) and it was kaput; load too great. As machine was out and didn't want things to be a total loss did a small load of one dress shirt and three pull overs. That is going fine for now. Will bung the wet sheets into either the Miele or AEG front loader later. So that's me for you. Until can save up for a larger converter this toplader will only see light duty. Oh well, live and learn..... | ||
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Post# 1025110 , Reply# 34 2/19/2019 at 16:43 (1,885 days old) by Marky_mark (From Liverpool. Now living in Palm Springs and Dublin) |
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I’ve heard that some of these voltage/frequency converters trip immediately on overload, such as the inrush current during the split second that the motor starts turning. Others are designed to take perhaps a 150% overload for 30 seconds etc. On the other hand I believe a regular transformer will cope quite well with these very brief overloads. I did some research on these converters as I wanted to buy one but the higher power ones I saw (to cope with the inrush) cost thousands. In the end I didn’t buy one.
Have you tried running it through a regular transformer, therefore running on 60 Hz? Or just regular 208/240V 60 Hz if your apartment has it. If so, I’d be really interested to know what happens. I’m wondering if it will either work perfectly or the electronics will simply refuse to operate. All or nothing. Let us know! As for as the lack of grounding/earthing, due to the German “Schuko” style plug being used in the “wrong” type of socket on your converter.....the converters I saw essentially acted as an isolating transformer, meaning that there was no use for grounding or a GFCI after the converter for the connected appliance. However the wiring was configurable and I don’t know how yours is set up. Good luck! I hope you find a way to use it to its full potential! | ||
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Post# 1025127 , Reply# 35 2/19/2019 at 18:48 (1,885 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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Grounding
Forgot to mention; that issue was sorted: www.mnhomeoutlet.com/vct-...
Wouldn't trust the thing for pulling high wattage, but since aren't planning at this stage to use washer's heating element, will do for now. Yes, this converter is designed to be rather sensitive; likely because it does both converter frequency and voltage. It *might* be possible to put a variable control drive into this set-up, but am not going down that path for now. Will just wait until can get a more powerful converter. Issue isn't voltage per se; converter's internal diagnostics confirm this; but rather pushing it beyond limitations. 1KVA works out to be around 500 or so watts IIRC; clearly not enough to power a motor that must move 3,4 or 5 kilos of heavy wet washing. Of course it just might be the choice of motor for this washer as well. It uses a universal brush; but one wonders if an inverter motor would have less issues. However a properly sized "step-up/down" converter would have no problem handing this washer. Many have run an AEG or other European washers or even dryers in USA or elsewhere in world on such devices. My problem is the blasted PCB board won't accept 60hz power. Hence the need for this specific dual converter. Those running washing machines in "off the grid" environments and using inverters or certain generators have same issues. The "in rush" of current by motor for tumbling and or spinning is more than the device can handle. Sometimes a washer will spin at low speeds, but as it ramps up (and pulling more power) things give out. Such persons have same situation as myself; it can be difficult to calculate "in rush" current requirements. Those familiar with such things can do the sums and arrive at a pretty good estimate (like tech spoke with earlier). But for rest of us lay persons best estimate is sizing something twice, thrice or more maximum rated current draw. Thing is unlike a resistive load (such as heating) which builds gradually and or if prolonged can cause a fuse or breaker to go by over heating/taxing a circuit; these in rush loads cause sudden (but short) very high spikes in power draw. Converter cannot tell what or why this is happening so just treats all such events same; shuts down. Mind you for a device that costs thousands, it darn well had better have some sort of decent internal self protection. Can you imagine paying three thousand quid only to have a unit blow itself out first day or so in use due to an overload? | ||
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Post# 1062338 , Reply# 36 3/5/2020 at 07:10 (1,506 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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*Update* Of Sorts
Haven't bothered with the AEG toplader much, mostly because it is a pain to haul out the huge (and heavy) converter, hook everything up, then can only do such small loads due to under powered frequency converter.
Have a lead on a 10kva and 20kva frequency converters that are surplus to requirements. Either will supply more than enough power to run washer (including using heater), but neither have built in converters. Would thus have to (hard) wire in 220v power, then hard wire out put to washer. Or, can simply call electrician and order up sets of power cables with proper "male" and "female" plugs and ROJ wire connections. Other thing is both converters are huge; nearly same size as washer itself. So much for space saving. Need to do something as that AEG toplader is sitting in cubby haunting me like a bad debt one cannot pay. | ||
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Post# 1062368 , Reply# 37 3/5/2020 at 12:57 (1,506 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany)) |
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Wait If I am not mistaken, you should be abled to just use any transformer based voltage converter after the frequency conversion. But these units you currently plan on getting must be expensive as hell, don't they? | ||
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Post# 1062379 , Reply# 38 3/5/2020 at 16:09 (1,505 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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Unless one purchases a dual frequency & voltage converter then yes, you have to feed proper current into latter (220v, 230v, 240v, etc...) which then only swaps frequency. Of course one has to have proper power going in for a start. You cannot hope to power something drawing 3kW with a transformer rated for only 1kW.
Anything over 5kW (transformers/converters) are hard wired, hence no cords with these units. But ROJ cords will suffice in this instance since aren't pulling huge amounts of current (10kw). Yes, voltage converters cost quite dear even for small 2kvA units. When you start going up to those sized to supply a washing machine, or anything else pulling even just 2kW -3kW things are very dear indeed. Has been explained to one several times, but still remains confusing. It comes down to difference between kilo volt amps and kilowatts or just watts. | ||
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Post# 1062472 , Reply# 39 3/6/2020 at 11:03 (1,505 days old) by jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers) |
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Hmm As I understand it the trick is the frequency conversion and producing the correct current. Once past that, voltage conversion with a transformer should work as long as you can supply the proper current and voltage from the output of the transformer. Early frequency conversion was complex as it had to employ mechanical means to do so but I think today electronics have taken over? Any body know for sure?? | ||
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Post# 1062504 , Reply# 40 3/6/2020 at 22:24 (1,504 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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You can still find rotary frequency converters out there
They are big, loud, and not sort of thing you'd want in a non industrial space, but never the less....
From what one understands electronic especially modern offerings of frequency converters offer a more fine tuned output (pure sine waves, etc...). This makes them a good match for equally modern appliances/equipment that have sensitive electronics nowadays. Believe it or not NYC subway system still used old rotary converters until rather recently (1999). en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotary_con... en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frequency_... | ||
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Post# 1062533 , Reply# 42 3/7/2020 at 09:11 (1,504 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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Thanks for help, luv
But sadly no; frequency converter is too puny to power (or rather cope with) current load drawn by motor for washing or spinning above a certain weight of wash.
Have never used the heater because knew (or assumed) a 1 KvA converter would never work, and didn't want to harm the thing. Others may be able to explain better, but know that total amps for frequency converter must be same or a bit greater (for margin of safety) than appliance. My 1kva converter is: 240V Setting 0-300V (High grade): 0-300V, 4.2A AEG toplader pulls at least 10 amps (according to electrical plate). It's all over my head, but has something to do with inrush current IIRC. Thought a 5KvA frequency converter which is rated at 20 amps would suffice, but tech keeps saying one needs 10KVA or above. Think this explains things better than I. forum.solar-electric.com/discuss... | ||
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Post# 1062608 , Reply# 44 3/8/2020 at 09:57 (1,503 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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No, unlike AEG front loaders sold in North America these European machines don't have a "Kalt" or "20C" setting for normal cottons/linens or any other cycle besides Wool.
Upon applying for information was told this is how things are done now in Europe. All washers are cold fill and machine will heat to desired temperature. This is supposed to be progress and energy efficient because "machines use so little water" today. Oh well.. In any event simply ran washer on "30C" cycles filling with water from tap knew quite well was higher temperature. Machine senses temp of water and does not engage heater. This is normal for all AEG washers as my Lavamat front loader will do same, abort or shorten heating time based upon temperature of water in drum. However there is a down side to this; washer's computers allow for "X" minutes of time to heat water (think it is ten). If machine reaches set temp below set parameters washer will deduct cycle time, sometimes drastically. If want to do a 120F wash with front loader Lavamat but see no reason to start with ice cold tap water, so start with say 100F. Machine will start with about 54 minutes total displayed. It drains wash water at about 45 minutes remaining, then one looks again and display reads 32mins or so. Maddening thing is even when set to 30C, washer will still do this during certain times of year when tap cold water is rather warm. In winter it is because the boilers are on for heat, so water standing around in pipes is warmed by conduction. In summer water sitting in mains is warmed if standing too long during hot weather. Only way to get really "cold" water in either situation is to allow taps to run; and often for a very long time. That is a huge waste of water so don't do it often, only for maybe cooking for filling up drinking water pitcher when one wants fresh cold water. Now my older Miele washer with electronic/mechanical controls doesn't care if thermostat is satisfied early. Miele marketed something called "cycle guarantee" which assured one got proper selected wash time regardless. Back to matter at hand. Washer will cope with (very) small loads, but again anything remotely approaching rated capacity trips frequency converter. While it could be heater, am still thinking 1kva frequency converter (which equals about 1kw) cannot cope with in rush current motor needs to deal with 4 or 5 kilos of wet laundry. At least one or two former active members ran their AEG laundry appliances from step-up voltage converters. So we know if machine can be programmed or whatever to accept 60hz power a step-up converter of 3,000 watts is fine. In a perfect world would line up frequency converters at 3kva, 5kva and 10kva keeping the one that proved satisfactory. Sadly the things cost very dear and have to choose just the one. One thousand watts at 220 volts comes to about 4.5 amps which is higher than stated rating for converter at 4.2 amps. Interestingly other converters from same maker rate at: 3 KVA - 12.5 amps 5 KVA - 20.8 amps 10 KVA - 40.6 amps Why they are suggesting one go with 10 KVA for a whopping 40.6 amps over smaller converters I don't know. But again do not know how to run sums used for such calculations | ||
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Post# 1062632 , Reply# 46 3/8/2020 at 14:48 (1,502 days old) by ozzie908 (Lincoln UK) |
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I am at a loss also as to why 
A 40amp supply would be needed, Ok so its not on a 240 supply with a 20 amp service which is all it would have if back here, The max fuse rating is 13amp and that's only for when things go askew and draw more than 13amp it will blow the fuse, Is there anyway you can find a used middle of the range one and see if that works as I have never known a healthy washer blow a 13amp fuse unless it has a short and then you get a nice bang and a flash and its dead before you pull the plug :)
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Post# 1062641 , Reply# 48 3/8/2020 at 16:57 (1,502 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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Thanks for all that information!
Long ago reached out to AEG Canada (who still sells and services Electrolux/AEG washers for USA), and was promptly told off.
They know us because have dealt with them off and on due to the AEG front loader (ordering parts, various service information, etc..), but flat refused to provided information requested. Doing so (giving ways to change frequency on AEG toplader) would "invalidate CEE certifications) or some such was the response. Again know there is a way for AEG laundry appliances sold in North America to be swapped for 60hz use; our front loader and dryer have 50hz on ratings plate but work perfectly fine. This as opposed to the Miele which says "60hz". We know from previous threads that motherboard for these model washers is "50hz/60hz". Since everything is run off the PCB there is the sticking point. Board either must be changed or programmed differently for 60hz use, but no one at Electrolux/AEG is ever going to tell how. This query in some form has bounced around various European and other laundry appliance forums. Response is always same; crickets from anyone remotely professionally connected with AEG or who otherwise would know. Have accessed service menu for AEG front loader to clear error codes (after installing new water solenoid). But am afraid to do something that might brick the washer. Especially now since AEG in Canada knows what one was likely up to. Am afraid they might say "poor you daft cow, we told you to leave it alone", and not assist restoring machine back to proper use. | ||
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Post# 1062682 , Reply# 49 3/9/2020 at 04:58 (1,502 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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Why Keep It?
Well as previous owner pointed out expressly and with great emphasis one received a basically brand new late model Euro washer for nothing. Am only out of pocket a small shipping charge (Uship) from NJ to city.
That alone is a savings, besides where or when are another of these top loading h-axis washers going to come along literally right in one's back yard? Lost out on the other "free" AEG top loader in Detroit out of my own stupidity, was determined not to let that happen again. If end up having to spend a bit for a proper frequency converter still think come out ahead. Will have a washer that pretty much will last until one gives up this hobby, or leaves this earth. Some like American appliances, think we know one has a thing for European things. So who knows, may find other uses for a frequency converter besides this toplader. Off the bat could run my Textima bugelmangel for a start. It does fine on 220v/60hz, but would run at proper slower speed at 50hz. Since have several other washers, there isn't a huge rush to get the AEG toplader up and running. Thus can wait until proper converter can be sourced at a reasonable price. | ||
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Post# 1093935 , Reply# 50 10/21/2020 at 06:03 (1,276 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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It's Been A Funny and Long Journey
But this time "Es Lebt!" for sure! Well at least so far so good.
Got everything hooked up and decided to go for a mortgage and put the toaplader (and converter) to a test; full load (about 8 pounds) of bath linens (thick towels, wash cloths, hand towels). If one or other failed to perform, I'm done.... Well about 15 minutes into a two hour wash cycle (Cottons/60C), and everything is spot on! First and foremost can tell from converter readings toplader amp pull is all over map. From a low of ten to sometimes a bit over forty. Wiser heads were correct in that it would take a converter likely larger than washer and cost same or more to power unit. Since got washer for free, there was only transport costs. So that's me for you there. Don't want to think what total kit came to; so will just leave that aside for now. | ||
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Post# 1093949 , Reply# 51 10/21/2020 at 09:42 (1,276 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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Oh the endless wait
Thought cycles on the AEG Lavamat were long, but this Electrolux AEG toplader takes things to a whole other level.
Two hours and about ten minutes after starting towel load things finally finished. That was with using the reduced time feature. Otherwise things would have been over three hours I believe. Am not that thrilled Electrolux took away 50C and gave "40-60" mix. For hot washes one has either 95C or 60C. Would have liked to do second load of whites at my usual 50C, but that's out, so chose 40C instead. That "40-60" mix is three and one quarter hour long, and cannot be shortened. Scrub that..... All and all an interesting bit of kit. Machine heats water at beginning, then washes for a bit, then heater comes back on again. Don't know if this is some sort of profile washing, or just maintaining selected water temp. Bath linen felt a bit heavy after just a 1200 rpm final spin (highest machine offers). Just hung them up to dry and after whites are done in dryer will pop them in for a bit to fluff. | ||
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Post# 1093964 , Reply# 53 10/21/2020 at 11:57 (1,276 days old) by ozzie908 (Lincoln UK) |
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This opens a whole new arena for you :) | ||
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