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Thread Number: 78151
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Maytag A106 Project |
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| Post# 1021734 , Reply# 1 1/19/2019 at 19:39 (1,922 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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| Post# 1021741 , Reply# 2 1/19/2019 at 20:29 (1,922 days old) by 79maytaga106 (Texas) | ||
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Thank you! I have a lot of parts on order, and will get started once I get everything in. Hopefully I can locate the groove pin soon. I added a picture of my parts collection so far. | ||
Post# 1021742 , Reply# 3 1/19/2019 at 20:35 (1,922 days old) by swestoyz  (Cedar Falls, IA) |
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APCO parts has a few of the groove pins in stock. However, unless there is a need to disassemble the agitator shaft from the top half of the transmission, I’d recommend leaving it be. Typically if everything looks good I flush out the bearing through the lubrication passage and lubricate the upper case bearing with some zoom spout oil. If you do decide to take it apart I’d recommend replacing the spring washer with a new one. 15902 or Y015902.
The knock might be from a lack of oil and play in the spring washer. Otherwise, everything looks CLEAN. Ben www.appliancepartscompany... | ||
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Post# 1021773 , Reply# 5 1/19/2019 at 23:56 (1,922 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City) |
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A handsome machine... | ||
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Post# 1021824 , Reply# 7 1/20/2019 at 10:09 (1,921 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions) |
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Post# 1021830 , Reply# 8 1/20/2019 at 11:58 (1,921 days old) by appnut (TX) |
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using the gold panel by 1979? | ||
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Post# 1021835 , Reply# 9 1/20/2019 at 12:18 (1,921 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
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**IF** you remove the groove pin on the agitator shaft, you have to be extremely careful when you do so.
On later years of these transmissions, that gear is a sintered metal part, so it is not as durable as a solid machined gear would be. One wrong strike with the punch, or not supporting the gear properly, and you could easily crack or break the gear. In the case of our A308, removal of this pin was necessary as the agitator shaft was binding in the case. We made a sacrificial wooden support to hold the gear (and transmission half) while removing the pin, so that the fixture would yield before the gear. It worked, but it took considerable force and our groove pin came out in pieces. With the binding shaft, we didn't have the option to leave ours together. Having taken it apart, I would agree with the others to leave yours together if it feels OK- It's just not worth the risk! | ||
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Post# 1021844 , Reply# 10 1/20/2019 at 13:21 (1,921 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City) |
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Thanks Bob... | ||
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Post# 1021854 , Reply# 12 1/20/2019 at 14:52 (1,921 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
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Post# 1021856 , Reply# 13 1/20/2019 at 14:55 (1,921 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
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| Post# 1021870 , Reply# 14 1/20/2019 at 17:11 (1,921 days old) by 79maytaga106 (Texas) | ||
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Ebay had two, yesterday. I bought one, and then shortly after someone else bought the other. Thanks for the paint color thread, I'll get a can! | ||
| Post# 1021873 , Reply# 16 1/20/2019 at 17:22 (1,921 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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The paint recommended by LowEfficiency (Dave) is a perfect choice! I used it on my A407 rebuild and it worked out perfectly. I also painted the upper portion of the console with Whirlpool Appliance Paint. The worst part is masking everything off!
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| Post# 1022083 , Reply# 17 1/22/2019 at 17:42 (1,919 days old) by 79maytaga106 (Texas) | ||
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Thanks for the clarification good-shepherd! Dang, eurekastar that control panel really pops! Can't wait to get mine to that condition. If all goes well I plan to start the project in the next week or two. | ||
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Post# 1022089 , Reply# 18 1/22/2019 at 18:23 (1,919 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey) |
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I still say they should have matched the control panel's lower color to the actual color of the machine....
the blue compliments a white body, as it sort of has a bluish/gray hint to it... I think if I had any other color than white, I would change that to match, just for a different look....especially on a matched set.... | ||
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Post# 1022174 , Reply# 19 1/23/2019 at 14:47 (1,918 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
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>> Ebay had two, yesterday. I bought one, and then shortly after someone else bought the other. Thanks for the paint color thread, I'll get a can!
That was my parents on the second one!! NOS agitator shafts are extremely hard to come by, so you (and us) got very lucky that those showed up! I'd been keeping an eye out, but somehow missed that one, so thanks for posting that you found one. It made me do another search, and that's when I found the auction. Glad the paint thread was useful. I saved the link a long time ago, back when I thought I would need it. Now, however, I somehow ended up with two "sunglow" gold panel machines. So if a blue machine came my way, I'd have a dilemma on which one to repaint to match! | ||
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Post# 1022175 , Reply# 20 1/23/2019 at 14:52 (1,918 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
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>> The paint recommended by LowEfficiency (Dave) is a perfect choice! I used it on my A407 rebuild and it worked out perfectly.
That's great! Since you've done it, perhaps you can answer a question I've had... Would you consider the Avignon Blue Metallic to be a good match for the original Maytag color? Or is it just "close" and a pleasant color? That's something I've had a hard time discerning from other posts. It wouldn't be a problem if you repainted two machines, but I haven't seen a side-by-side of original vs repainted... | ||
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Post# 1022177 , Reply# 21 1/23/2019 at 15:05 (1,918 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
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>> I still say they should have matched the control panel's lower color to the actual color of the machine....
>> the blue compliments a white body, as it sort of has a bluish/gray hint to it... >> I think if I had any other color than white, I would change that to match, just for a different look....especially on a matched set.... That's an interesting thought. Some of the color combinations Maytag produced worked really well, but (in my opinion) not all of them. For example, the Almond machines look really sharp with the sunglow gold panels. The late-production unshaded Harvest Wheat and Fresh Avocado machines also look good with the gold panels, in a much more subtle and refined way than the earlier shaded machines with the blue panels... I'd gladly trade any of those for a turquoise/blue combo though. And there are of course combinations never before seen, such as a blue panel on an almond machine, or a gold panel on a turquoise machine. | ||
| Post# 1022193 , Reply# 22 1/23/2019 at 17:30 (1,918 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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@ LowEfficeincy | ||
| Post# 1022624 , Reply# 24 1/26/2019 at 23:36 (1,915 days old) by good-shepherd (New Jersey) | ||
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Does it look like I have everything covered? Transmission gasket, Zoom spout Tubine oil. Too bad you can't find a more upscale Maytag to refurb, seems like such a waste to put all those nice parts in a lowly BOL unit. | ||
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Post# 1022660 , Reply# 25 1/27/2019 at 11:18 (1,914 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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A106 Ready For A Rebuild
It looks like you have most of what you need, to use the older style agitator shaft seal you have to use the older style mounting stem and seal kit, the newer style triple lip seal is a superior seal especially with a new agitator shaft, but either will work quite well.
Rebuilding a basic A106 makes perfect sense, the smaller tub MT washers have superior turn over and rinsing, it all the washer you would ever really need. Keep us posted John L. | ||
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Post# 1022667 , Reply# 26 1/27/2019 at 12:08 (1,914 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
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>> Too bad you can't find a more upscale Maytag to refurb, seems like such a waste to put all those nice parts in a lowly BOL unit.
I've been through similar thought processes, but in the end, other than your time, there's really not a lot of downsides since so many parts can be transferred over, or your restored machine could be used as the basis for an upgrade down the line (control panel swap, 2-speed conversion, etc). At worst, you've fixed up a nice machine that could either be sold to finance the purchase of a higher-spec model, or retained as a standby backup machine. | ||
| Post# 1022681 , Reply# 28 1/27/2019 at 15:12 (1,914 days old) by good-shepherd (New Jersey) | ||
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served our family almost flawlessly for 40 years now, Wow, you got your monies worth out of that machine for sure. What residential washer built today will be running 40 years from now AND rebuildable with easily available factory parts? | ||
| Post# 1022682 , Reply# 29 1/27/2019 at 15:17 (1,914 days old) by good-shepherd (New Jersey) | ||
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newer style triple lip seal is a superior seal I was under the impression the triple lip seal had a higher failure rate than the old design? | ||
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Post# 1022684 , Reply# 30 1/27/2019 at 15:36 (1,914 days old) by wayupnorth (On a lake between Bangor and Bar Harbor, Maine) |
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Post# 1022714 , Reply# 32 1/27/2019 at 22:26 (1,914 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Reply # 29 Triple lip Agitator shaft seals Hi Douglas, I have never seen the newer TLS fail except in cases where one was installed on a machine with a rusted pitted agitator shaft.
There are LOTS of MT DC washers with leaks in the main seal area from the 80s on to the end of these great machines in 2006, but they are leaking in the main seal area. We still buy the mounting stem and seal kits by the dozen and repair several leaking MT DC washers every month.
A triple lip seal is a superior type of water seal to the crude seal that MT used on their older machines, almost every type of washer, automobile, airplane and on and on uses a lip type seal, you almost never see any type of seal like these older type seals used by MT used on anything any longer.
MT changed to these TLSs because they believed they were better and I have seen no problems with them.
John L. | ||
| Post# 1022767 , Reply# 33 1/28/2019 at 08:56 (1,913 days old) by good-shepherd (New Jersey) | ||
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LOTS of MT DC washers with leaks in the main seal area Interesting, what is the flaw with the main seal causing the leaks in that era? Also, would less than perfect agitator shafts be better off repaired with the older style seal if possible? | ||
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Post# 1022778 , Reply# 34 1/28/2019 at 10:25 (1,913 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Maytag DC Main Seal Problems
The two common reasons that the main bellow part of the seal leaks are the outer top edge of the spin bearing housing gets rusty or has excessive rubber flashing on it and the bellow part of the seal cannot move freely up and down and therefore can not maintain pressure against the bottom of the mounting stems sealing surface.
The other big problem with the mounting stem hub is MT cheapened it by replacing the SS insert with a plastic one and the plastic sealing surface wears out and can no longer seal properly. It is possible that the older seal may work a little better with a less than perfect agitator shaft, but I sure can't tell why if you look at how its designed. John L. | ||
| Post# 1024109 , Reply# 38 2/9/2019 at 13:48 (1,901 days old) by good-shepherd (New Jersey) | ||
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BTW That tub bearing sleeve in photo 3 comes off. Sometimes they get seized on the trans case to the point where it needs to be spit off with a chisel. | ||
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Post# 1025157 , Reply# 42 2/19/2019 at 22:33 (1,891 days old) by wayupnorth (On a lake between Bangor and Bar Harbor, Maine) |
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| Post# 1025160 , Reply# 43 2/20/2019 at 00:35 (1,891 days old) by 70series ( Connecticut.) | ||
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Great job on the refurb, and an amazing video. Looked so much like the rough seas during wash and rinse that I could almost hear the Gilligan's Island theme. Well done. Have a good one, James | ||
| Post# 1025234 , Reply# 44 2/20/2019 at 21:09 (1,890 days old) by 79maytaga106 (Texas) | ||
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Thank you, Tim! I hope your '84 511 keeps on going for many years. Thank you, James! Yep, the agitation is awesome. It was starting to have sluggish agitation before the refurb. You have a good one as well! | ||
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Post# 1025273 , Reply# 45 2/21/2019 at 10:03 (1,889 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA) |
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