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Thread Number: 78310
/ Tag: Other Home Products or Autos
Furnace replacement |
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Post# 1023337 , Reply# 1 2/1/2019 at 22:26 (1,909 days old) by RP2813  (Sannazay) |
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 I guess that figure depends on the size of the system. Whatever you do, steer clear of Bryant. Our Bryant HVAC was installed about two years ago before we bought this house, and it constantly cuts out during heating. This is a common complaint about Bryants and replacing the high limit sensor/switch is the default repair, but it's not the solution. The fan is also very noisy. | ||
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Post# 1023339 , Reply# 2 2/1/2019 at 22:31 (1,909 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN) |
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| Post# 1023358 , Reply# 3 2/2/2019 at 07:45 (1,908 days old) by Wvkenmore (Wv) | ||
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Thanks for warning on Bryant, this is for American standard. The system will be 100,000 btu not sure about a.c size. | ||
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Post# 1023362 , Reply# 4 2/2/2019 at 08:58 (1,908 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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American Standard and Trane are the same | ||
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Post# 1023366 , Reply# 5 2/2/2019 at 10:07 (1,908 days old) by philcobendixduo (San Jose) |
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Bryant...
....is one of the top-rated brands in consumer publications and surveys. It's essentially the same as Carrier (also made by United Technologies)
My 96.5% efficiency gas furnace and A/C installed in May 2014 has worked flawlessly thus far. No complaints. Noise of the blower is a function of ductwork and unit location. I give a thumbs UP for Bryant (Carrier). | ||
| Post# 1023367 , Reply# 6 2/2/2019 at 10:15 (1,908 days old) by Wvkenmore (Wv) | ||
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Thanks for info on both brands. I'm just in shock at prices. | ||
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Post# 1023372 , Reply# 7 2/2/2019 at 11:12 (1,908 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Carrier and Bryant
Are good brands, Bryant is the economy line from Carrier, The major problem I have with Carrier products is they are very restrictive with parts and service help, unless you are a dealer for them good luck getting parts and help.
If you have a C-B dealer you really like it may be a good choice. I do agree that Ralph's noise and overheating problems are likely related to inadequate duct work, I know that Bryant furnaces can and do work very well. John L. | ||
| Post# 1023419 , Reply# 9 2/2/2019 at 19:29 (1,908 days old) by norgeway (mocksville n c ) | ||
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Put the boiler back Nothing compares to hydronic heat. | ||
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Post# 1023433 , Reply# 10 2/2/2019 at 21:04 (1,908 days old) by jmm63 (Denville, NJ) |
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| Post# 1023506 , Reply# 12 2/3/2019 at 15:46 (1,907 days old) by firedome (Binghamton NY & Lake Champlain VT) | ||
I'll 3rd Hans...
of the 7 houses we've had, we specified Hydronic hot water baseboard in the 3 new ones that we built, and we'd do it again, we miss it. Our current Nat Gas hot air 1960s Williamson furnace still works great (knock on wood) and is cheap to run, but we hate the dry-out effect. I'd go for hot water baseboards in a micro-second.
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Post# 1023514 , Reply# 13 2/3/2019 at 17:44 (1,907 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Best Heating Systems For Homes My 15 YO American Standard Hi efficiency Gas Forced Air Furnace is so quiet and even in heating the house you almost never know is on, the house always stays at an even 70F, it never overheats or has trouble keeping up. With the power humidifier electrostatic air cleaner the house stays clean and comfortable, I have not cleaned drapes or repainted in over 30 years.
Having spent time in homes with hot water heating systems while they often feel warm they are always too dry, too dusty and each bedroom and bathroom take on their own odor, basements stay musty. Hot water heating systems do not adjust well to changes in outdoor temperatures, they often overheat the home. They also do not recover quickly if you turn down the heat at night or when you go away and want to turn down the heat.
Hot water heating systems always cost more to run than forced air systems for several reasons, the boilers are usually a little less efficient, you can not turn off extra rooms as effectively or completely, and they often overheat the house causing people to open windows and doors.
John L. | ||
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Post# 1023983 , Reply# 14 2/8/2019 at 11:32 (1,902 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands) |
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John,
Sounds like you are talking about hot water heating from the seventies. Since then they have become much more modern and efficient. It was always possible to turn individual radiators on and off but later the individual thermostats for every single radiator was introduced. It started with simple thermostats, later thermosats with clocks were introduced so you could set several temperatures for every individual radiators. Nowadays there are Wifi thermostats available so you can set the temperature for every room in the house from where ever you are. The room thermostat can be replaced by a sensor outside that sets the max. water temperature in the system, depending on the temperature difference between inside and outside. So when it is cold, the water is heated to a higher temperature than when the weather is milder. Boilers have become very efficient too. By regaining heat from the condensation water, efficiency is above 100%. A regular HR boiler/water heater combo has an efficiency of 107% nowadays. Only heatpumps are more efficient. Overhere most people who had hot air heating have gotten rid of those systems, after converting to hot water heating their bill was almost half of what they paid before. The change to heatpump heating in new houses often goes together with the installation of low temperature under floor heating. Unfortunately that is not possible in older houses, or at least very expensive. There are a lot of interesting developments going on at the moment but hot water heating is still very competitive. | ||
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Post# 1023987 , Reply# 15 2/8/2019 at 12:05 (1,902 days old) by countryguy (Astorville, ON, Canada) |
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Louis,
I agree with you about hot water heating. I got rid of my electric baseboard heat in 2009 and replaced it with hot water radiant baseboards. It works great - silent, efficient, clean and keeps the house more than comfortable on both levels even when the temperature is -35 C outside. I have the house divided into 5 zones whereby I can control the temperature of each zone indiviually. I have programmable thermostats so the temperature is raised & lowered automatically. Yes the air becomes a little dry but that is easily overcome by using a separate humidifier. New built homes require air recovery ventilation systems which eliminates the dry air issue. The only issue with hot air heating is that a separate system is required in order to have central air. Gary | ||
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Post# 1024069 , Reply# 16 2/9/2019 at 02:52 (1,901 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN) |
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Post# 1024131 , Reply# 17 2/9/2019 at 19:29 (1,901 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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| Post# 1024141 , Reply# 18 2/9/2019 at 22:17 (1,901 days old) by Wvkenmore (Wv) | ||
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Well looks like I'm doing gas furnace with a.c. Unit. I am afraid some pipes are damaged to. . | ||
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Post# 1024145 , Reply# 19 2/9/2019 at 22:42 (1,901 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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New Heating-Cooling System Since you are essentially starting from scratch be sure the furnace and A/C are not over sized and duct-work is designed and installed properly. All duct-work carefully sealed unless it is in a heated-cooled part of the home.
A 2 stage gas furnace gives much greater comfort and lower running cost, also consider a really good air-filter [ not a 1" thick one ] and a power humidifier, if properly done a year from now you will be amazed how comfortable your home is while costing much less than ever before to heat.
John L. | ||
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Post# 1024146 , Reply# 20 2/9/2019 at 22:44 (1,901 days old) by SudsMaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Seems that most home heating systems in this area are natural gas fueled, usually forced or passive air. Smaller older homes may rely upon passive floor or wall heaters.
The heating in this 1941 home is gas forced air. From the looks of the crawl space, it replaced an older passive air system. When I moved in, it was a lot noisier than it is now. The solution was to wrap the return duct - which runs about 30 feet under the house, with thick fiberglass insulation. My aim was to conserve energy, but a bonus was that it seemed to quiet everything down as well as eliminate some tin-can banging when the system cycled on and off. Also, insulating all the heating ductwork (it was mostly just with old asbestos tape wrapping) with 1" thick foil backed fiberglass insulation also helped conserve energy and keep things quiet. The best energy conservation came from sealing off air leaks to the attic and great outdoors, and putting at least R30 insulation up there above the single floor ceiling. Before that the furnace was on almost all the time on cold winter nights. Afterwards, it's on for much less time, and insulating the return duct reduces that blast of cold air when it does cycle on. The furnace is at least 30 years old. Can't remember the name; I think it's Republic but I'd have to find the manual that came with it. No way am I going down under the house to check! | ||
| Post# 1024187 , Reply# 21 2/10/2019 at 07:46 (1,900 days old) by Dustin92 (Jackson, MI) | ||
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If you decide to go with forced air, go with the highest efficiency you can get/afford. We have a 25+ year old Amana 91% efficient and it vents through a pvc pipe.. Very little wasted heat. Also better to slightly undersize your a/c unit or the house may feel damp. | ||
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Post# 1024328 , Reply# 28 2/11/2019 at 18:41 (1,899 days old) by SudsMaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Oh, forced air isn't that bad. Of course, if the home is already plumbed for hot water or steam heat, I'd stick with that. This here house was built in 1941, and from the looks of the crawl space it was either a single floor heater ion the living room/dining room area, or passive air through ductwork. The unit in there now was installed around 1980, and is 100,000 BTU. Of course it's an 80-85% efficient unit, being that old. I did insulate the attic, under most of the flooring, and seal off air leaks (like install an automatic damper in the kitchen range hood and make sure the bath vent fan dampers work). I didn't replace the 60's era windows (sliding horizontal aluminum, I know) but I observed the felt was worn thin so they would rattle in the wind, so I took them all apart and replaced the felt (really a sort of fuzzy strip). That seemed to help.
I researched the subject quite a bit, and while double pane windows are great, you have to consider that windows comprise a very small area of the total envelope. Far more important is reducing drafts, and attic insulation. For what remains, I have heavy curtains and/or window shades that help to reduce heat losses. The home is 1650 sq ft, single story. You can tell when the 100,000 BTU furnace turns on and off, but it's not like a Baked Alaska. Actually fairly comfortable. | ||
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