Thread Number: 78699
/ Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
Maytag MVWP575GW - How to Get Hot Tap Water Wash
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|Post# 1026934   3/13/2019 at 06:05 (315 days old) by PinkPower4 (USA)  || |
For those who want more control over their water settings, the information shown in this video also works for the Maytag mvwp575gw--the commercial residential washer sold in local appliance stores. You would then have hot (HOT) or cold only (any other water temp settings). A security screwdriving set would be needed to remove the screws on the washer's console and a flat head screwdriver or plastic tool that one might use to open a phone for gently pushing out the plastic tabs that hold the thermistor in place.
If you also add the appropriate APPROVED FOR INDOOR USE AND HOT WATER PLUMBING PARTS, one could mix a hot and cold line to the COLD while still having hot only to the HOT. This would provide a "warmer" warm and warm rinses--this depends on your water heater setting. For those who like fabric softener, how does that work with cold rinses anyway?
The information I can find suggests that the thermistor regulates the hot, warm, and cold water temperatures on this and similar washers by either adding hot or cold water to adjust the temperatures accordingly. Therefore, adding the mixer line ONLY without gently moving the thermistor to another location (as shown in the video linked) may cause error messages--where lights start blinking on the control panel.
Hot is just over 100 degrees F.
Warm is around 75 to 80 F.
The Normal (Eco) wash now becomes a lot more useful :-). Hot is pure hot. Warm is warmer. Any of the other water temp settings is the mix of the hot and cold line unless a switch is added to the y mixer that could turn off the hot to that line when needed, but that is where is where even more caution is needed.
Disclaimer: One would risk voiding the five year parts and labor warranty and assumes all risks and liabilities. I have seen some videos where some have attempted to mix the hot and cold lines by using a y with switches on them that are for cold water only and outdoor use only. This is really risky and NOT advisable unless you really want a surprise INDOOR SWIMMING POOL some day! Anyone here with knowledge know of an approved metal Y or thoughts on the Y mixer hose made specifically for this purpose and for use with washer machines. Finally, anyone know of an approved Y with a switch that would work for indoor and hot water plumbing for those who need access to just cold water sometimes? What metal material is recommended? Brass? I would think they should be changed out on a regular basis just like hoses.
The clean washer cycle that one can only get to by using diagnostics and uses pure hot water does not work for washing clothes. It fills the tub in increments and does not really do the "wash" part of the cycle.
I do not sell or repair washers for a living. I am just a consumer.
What are your thoughts? This could be useful to people who do not want the new Speed Queen 2018 and newer agitub design that does not regulate water temp and has load size selector.
The older models Speed Queens, even the LWN432 models, are nowhere to be found in many areas. The only place I have seen them at is applianceconnections.com, which has several negative reviews through BBB. The authorized Speed Queen dealers in my area say they cannot get them.
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|Post# 1027010 , Reply# 1   3/14/2019 at 04:00 (314 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)  || |
a few things that I have done to acquire a hot water wash.....
water heater setting.....140 or higher...
remove the restrictor from the hot water side of the valve....
the most I see is a 10 degree drop.....my water heater is set at 160....
all brass valves, with or without individual valves, can be found at Lowes or HomeDepot...
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|Post# 1027114 , Reply# 2   3/15/2019 at 07:09 (313 days old) by PinkPower4 (USA)  || |
I was not able to go back and edit my original post.
New energy regulations required this:
Temperature senses and maintains uniform water temperatures by regulating incoming hot and cold water [for wash and rinse cycles]. Select a wash temperature based on the type of fabric and soils being washed. For best results, and following the garment label instructions, use the warmest wash water safe for your fabric.
• Normal, Warm, and Hot water may be cooler than your previous washer. Deep Water cycles will provide higher temperatures for the wash cycle.
• Even in a cold or cool water wash, some warm water may be added to the washer to maintain a minimum temperature.
Rinses are cold now.
This would be GREAT if the washer also had ONE cycle that would also allow a true hot water setting. It does not seem like there is one. Can someone confirm this?
I could not find a wash cycle on this machine that uses hot tap only except for the clean cycle, which fills the tub in increments only and is not suitable for washing a load of clothes. One also has to enter the diagnostics mode on this washer to get to this clean cycle.
For hot tap only water, one has to bypass the sensor. Two ways to do this include:
1. One is to let the washer start filling but add your own hot tap water to the tub. I would pause the washer after it started filling. However, if you pause the washer longer than ten minutes, the cycle is cancelled. This would work if you have access to a separate hot tap water source. The washer seems to quit filling when the appropriate water level is reached whether it is from its own auto fill or by the user adding water directly to the tub. Can someone confirm this?
2. Gently move the thermistor sensor as shown in the video. This reduces your water temperature settings to only having two instead of a varying degrees. Please note, one must either the HOT for hot water line or TAP COLD for the cold water line for best results.
A Y mixer can allow one to join a second hot line and the existing cold line to the cold valve of the back of the washer, so that the water temperatures are HOT (hot) or TAP COLD (hot/cold mix--this could be tweaked by the user). I would make sure any modifications are approved for INDOOR AND HOT WATER use. Many I found in the hardware stores were labeled for outdoor and cold water use only. As an extra precaution, I recommend getting a water sensor. Some will even hook into your home security system. Better yet, have a plumber do this!
This requires a security screwdriver set with a T20 to remove the screws from the console and other common tools for the Y mixer.
Now I will be using more energy than I would have if the government would have just left everything alone. I was fine with cold rinses, but I needed HOT for whites and pet bedding.
The normal cycle works much better now that I have a HOT TAP only and warm setting. I am fine with spray rinses too. If I want a half tub rinse, I just cancel the cycle after it washes. I restart the Normal cycle. Now I have a half tub rinse followed by three spray rinses or I can choose to cancel the cycle again and just put it on Drain/Spin. Bonus: Normal loads seem take less time to dry not only because the load size is smaller but because the smaller load can be spun out better (very comparable to how they felt coming out of the front load with a much higher spin).
The cleaning performance of this washer is outstanding. Yes, it requires a bit of effort to achieve the same thing that could be done without hassle years ago because of the government trying to make water level and water temperature selection less complicated.
However, user does risk voiding the five years parts and labor warranty. User assume ALL risks AND liabilities of any modifications made to achieve this. I do not sell or repair washers or have a plumber's license. I chose to post in this forum, so more knowledgeable members can add their input.
I hope that helps and is a little easier to understand.
|Post# 1027118 , Reply# 3   3/15/2019 at 08:50 (313 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)  || |
it has become a dilemma for some with these new washers....
many are getting more harder to alter to our liking....some machines will even detect if both faucets are not turned on, or if the hoses are reversed...
probably always best to turn off your faucets to the washer when it is not in use, unplugging the unit wouldn't hurt either...
many have just added a 'Y' at the hot tap, with an extra hose, and manually added water to the machine.....purging the hot water line before starting wash is a benefit as well...
the 'NORMAL' cycle on most of these machine by Gov't Regulations use the least amount of energy....ie, water temp and water levels....
you have to experiment with your machine to see what each cycle and option would give you....
I have one that is more precise to select the cycle by water level needed.....Normal = Mini, Casual/Easy Care = Medium, Towel/Sheets = Large
|Post# 1027251 , Reply# 4   3/17/2019 at 00:39 (312 days old) by MattL (Flushing, MI)  || |
Speaking of thermisters, what I did on one of my Duets was to modify the resistance of the thermistor. It's been close to 10 years but using the wiring diagram I found what the various resistances that controlled the temp and either added or subtracted resistance to get a hotter wash.
|Post# 1027472 , Reply# 5   3/19/2019 at 06:15 (309 days old) by PinkPower4 (USA)  || |
@MattL I have fixed computers and phones, but this is new to me. I tried to Google how to modify resistance of thermistor, but it was without success.
I have the chart that shows how to test this thermistor for resistance at different levels and what the reading should be if it is good at all the different levels using an ohmmeter. It looks like the range this themistor can be tested goes from 32 degrees F to 149 degrees F.
It looks like the thermistor itself is at J3 pins 9 (input) and 10 (GND). Next to this is a box that shows 50F (cool?), 77F (warm?), and 104 F (hot?). Since this is copyright material, I don't think I can post it.
It looks like one will get an error code only if the rinse water is above 105 F, so one cannot just reverse the hot and cold hoses and just leave the thermistor in place. This is why the two options I mentioned in my second post should work (at least they did for me).
This washer has cold tap, cold, cool, warm, and hot settings. The instructions manual states to set the hot water heater to 120 F. Mine was slighty higher.
Not having hot water was a deal breaker. The bearings on the front loader are now shot, and I realized the items that I used it for were not coming out clean in the Maytag washer despite the abundance of water and wash action. The front loader did have a built-in water heater for the sani-cycle. Hot tap only water was needed for the new Maytag! Now I am using more energy. I set my water heater higher because there is no thermistor to regulate the warm temperature, which is now a mixture of the incoming hot and cold water at whatever temp they come in at. I also needed it a little higher since there is no built-in water heater, but what I had it set at may have worked okay instead of this lukewarm hot (which did work well for everything else). I also am using warm water for rinses when cold worked just fine. I have gently moved the thermistor and mixed the hot and cold lines.
Senseless forced regulations like this have crippled these machines. I would love to save energy and be kinder to our environment and use these options when I can. New regulations do not give me that choice, so now I am using more energy. If I could modify the resistance of that thermistor, maybe I could have a true hot for those cycles when needed and go back to letting the machine regulate the warm and cool temps as well as using cold for rinses.
Thank you both, @Yogitunes and @MattL, for your information.
|Post# 1027528 , Reply# 6   3/20/2019 at 02:25 (309 days old) by MattL (Flushing, MI)  || |
I did the thermister mod about 9 years ago so my memory is a little foggy, but never had an error message. My goal was to make the machine thing the water temp is lower than it actually is, thereby getting more hot water. When I check the water temp it did go up, so I was happy.
|Post# 1035461 , Reply# 7   6/16/2019 at 10:30 (220 days old) by PinkPower4 (USA)  || |
Is there a way to combine the hot and cold main faucets in a washer outlet box to one? Then I can run a Y connection to the Maytag and just control the temperature from the main faucet (like I do for my portable washer when hooked to the kitchen sink). ATC would have to be disabled.
I have a gas water heater that is set at approximately 120 degrees F and tested the Maytag mvwp575gw with ATC enabled. Hot hose is connected to hot inlet valve, and the cold hose is connected to the cold inlet valve.
With ATC enabled for the main cycles (Bulky, Delicates, Mixed, and Powerwash), I am getting close to 120 degrees F. for a hot wash and around 100 degrees F. for a warm wash using a candy thermometer to check the temperature. When observing the fill portion of the wash cycle, it does not switch back and forth between filling with hot and cold water. Can someone else test this?
Hot is TOO hot to keep my hand in the water. Warm would be a good temperature for a bath. The temperatures work well for me, and I can use bleach or Lysol laundry sanitizer when needed. Increasing the temperature of the hot water heater increases the risk of water burns and my bill.
Selecting Presoak, Extra Rinse, or Presoak/Extra Rinse for the Normal "Eco" cycle results in not only a full tub wash and full tub rinse (and extra rinse if selected) but also REAL HOT water. Go figure. Sigh.
However, Normal "Eco" hot and warm are noticeably lower when no other options are selected!!! :-( . Since this is the only half tub wash fill, this may be an issue for consumers.
This washer does seem to alternate between EITHER the hot OR cold valve to achieve the target temperature. I ran a "Warm" wash cycle. If I turn off the cold valve, no water will come into the tub when the cold valve is activated. If I turn off the hot valve, no water comes into the tub when the washer activates that valve. In other words, it does not appear to be mixing hot and cold at the same time for any cycle even Normal "Eco". It alternates back and forth between letting cold or hot water into the tub.
The confusion occurred because I had a portable washer hooked up and had mixed a hot and cold line for it. The cold water was turned off from the main faucet, but the Maytag was pulling water from that mixed line from the other washer. There was no shutoff valve between the mixed line for the portable washer and the Maytag's cold inlet valve. Therefore, it *seemed* like just turning off the main cold faucet would work for getting hot water into the tub for a Normal cycle even without mixing a line. It goes downhill from here.
The shutoff needs to be on that part of the hose itself that needs to be controlled and not just the main faucets. However, I would not use the brass Ys with the levers that are designed for cold water and outdoor use for this.
If you want to control the temperature for the Normal "Eco" cycle, the only way I can think to do this is to mix a hot and cold line to the cold inlet valve. There must be shutoff valves approved for indoor and hot water use on each of those lines. If you want a Normal "Eco" hot wash, you need to turn off the cold shutoff. If you want a Normal "Eco" warm wash, you can leave both on. IMPORTANT: Incoming water temperature greater than 104 degrees F (most likely for a "Hot" Normal "Eco" wash only) requires relocating the thermistor, so it reads the air instead of water temperature. Relocating the thermisor also means you will have to manually adjust the hot and cold tap to achieve the desired temp for the main cycles too. It may be easier just to use that mixed line for warm Normal "Eco" washes only.
After the washer fills for the wash portion of the cycle, remember to turn off the hot shutoff valve on this mixed line unless you want a warm rinse.
The hot valve on this mixed line should be turned off when selecting Bulky, Delicates, Mixed, or Powerwash. Otherwise the hot valve may be pulling from this mixed line too (which includes a connection to the cold).
The other option is coming up with a safe way just to run hot water from a hose manually into the washer. Start the wash cycle's fill. Pause. Manually fill. Unpause.
It may just be easier to use the portable washer I have for those smaller loads. I am finding it harder to part with even though it was originally purchased for my daughter to use at her apt.
The lack of temperature control for the only half tub cycle that only has a spray rinse will be a deal breaker for many now that the Speed Queen TC5 is out.
|Post# 1035463 , Reply# 8   6/16/2019 at 11:08 (220 days old) by Lorainfurniture (Cleveland )  || |
You can possibly install an additional resistor in line whith the equipped one. We doo that occasionally with refrigerators (samsung) to trick the box in to defrosting a bit longer. If you calculate the resistance at a certain temp, you can add another 5 ohm (for example) resistor to trick the washer in to thinking the water is 20 degrees colder than it really is.
That would likely result in straight hot for hot, very warm for warm, and cold would likely still stay cold.
It would take time, but I could probably figure it out and make some sort of piggyback device to alter the incoming water temps.
|Post# 1035522 , Reply# 9   6/17/2019 at 07:16 (219 days old) by PinkPower4 (USA)  || |
Can you or another dealer for this washer contact Maytag and see how the Automatic Temperature Control functions on this washer for the main cycles or get the information from the service manual? Perhaps, the Automatic Temperature Control is different for a "commercial" washer?
When my water heater is set to 120 degrees F, I seem to be getting straight hot tap for the main cycles' "Hot" wash. The cold valve comes on briefly in the beginning as it always does, but then the hot comes on and stays on. On "Hot", I cannot see where it is adding any cold. The candy thermometer I used to measure the temperature should be close, and it is basically showing close to the temp the water heater is set at. I was able to do this at higher settings too (although I only tested it briefly). So, I am not sure at what point ATC is supposed to kick in. Also, what is meant by some cooler water will be added to the wash or this wash temperatures for this washer may be cooler than your previous washer.
"Warm" does cause the washer to alternate between hot and cold. It is obvious when it switches back and forth between the valves. However, the warm feels warm.
Also, the water is really hot--TOO hot to keep my hand in it. Warm would be the right temperature for a bath. Either I messed up my thermistor in a good way or there was something faulty with my setup in the beginning that caused me to think the temperature was being dumbed down. The Normal "Eco" cycle was important to me. I did have a mixed hot/cold line and hot line running to the machine at one time. During another period of time, I realized it was drawing from the mixed line intended for another machine even though I had only one line going to each of the valves on the Maytag. Anyway, I plan to fix any posts where I may have given out incorrect information unintentionally.
I have attached the wiring diagram and a close up of it showing the temperatures for the thermistor. What is meant by the 104, 77, and 50? Is that a max or minimum target temperature and for what temps? Hot, warm, and cool?
The Normal "Eco" cycle continues to be a problem. For that reason, I need to figure out what controls the temperature of it? The thermistor or a preprogrammed cycle. Then I can figure out how to best tackle it.
This washer is worth the time it would take to figure out options to fix the temperature control especially for the Eco cycle, if possible. It is just my opinion but the lack of true temperature control for the Normal cycle is the ONLY real disadvantage I see. Neither one of these washers will last more than fifteen years without major repairs. Although I can appreciate that Speed Queen TC5 is a good washer (and my favorite along with this Maytag), I do not think they are made as well as they used to be. Not their fault. Too much government interference requiring control boards and energy saving features. I feel it is less likely to see as many of these chugging along later at 30 years like the beloved direct drives.
|Post# 1035543 , Reply# 10   6/17/2019 at 12:48 (219 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)  || |
You seem to be misunderstanding the role of the thermistor in temperature control. It doesn't control the temperature directly. It only reports the temperature it senses (via the resistance reading) to the controller board. The controller board turns the valves on or off to attain an average temperature reading per its programming.
If the board wants 85°F or 40°C or whatever target for the selected temperature ... let's say warm ... then it may initially run the hot valve until the thermistor reads too high on whatever swing range the programming allows, then it turns on the cold valve. When the temp reading drops below the "tolerance" range, it turns hot back on. The temperature of the water IN THE TUB averages to the target when fill is finished. Obviously, it can't get cooler than tap cold or hotter than tap hot. Depends on the specific machine's programming which valve is "favored" for a specific temp selection, and it may also vary from one cycle to another on the same machine. Some may favor cold for the warm setting and add hot as needed. Some may favor hot and add cold as needed. Most would reasonably favor cold for cold or cool and add hot as needed.
Those resistance readings on the tech sheet typically do not reflect any of the temperature settings on the machine. Notice your sheet does not label any specific temperature settings by name to those three °C / resistance ranges. They're a reference for what the thermistor resistance should read at those stated room/ambient temperatures, for a service tech to test the thermistor with a volt/ohm meter. If it's out of the stated range ... for example if it reads 20K ohms at a 77°F room temperature or 100K ohms at 90°F, then the thermistor is bad and needs to be replaced. Room/ambient temperature may not be exactly at the points stated on the tech sheet so the resistance range has to be interpolated accordingly. Higher temperature lowers the resistance.
Service literature for washers usually doesn't state what are the specific target temperatures for each selection on the machine. It may just say, for example, to set the machine for a warm fill, check that the temperature in the tub when it's finished is between 100°F and 85°F .. or something to that effect.
|Post# 1035560 , Reply# 11   6/17/2019 at 16:40 (219 days old) by henene4 (Germany)  || |
Fuzzy logic was a huge leap in apliance programming where programming went away from specific values to more vague value ranges that verry depending on situation.
Best example is level-less load sensing. While most washers have some setpoints for certain load conditions (empty, full, overloaded) in between those many washers vaguely guess based on some values that are somewhat known to be close to reality but not certain.
Probably same goes with ATC, especially when no clear temperature is selected, just a vague guess at what it should be.
Fuzzy logic there basicly goes like "I filled a lot of cold, maybe I should use some more hot for the next bit of filling" or "I had to re add water several times, so the load is larger so I might refill with hot" or "This is a gentle cycle, lets err more towards a colder final target".
|Post# 1035594 , Reply# 12   6/18/2019 at 06:19 (218 days old) by PinkPower4 (USA)  || |
DADoES, I did understand this. Sorry my post was not clear. "It [thermistor] doesn't control the temperature directly. It only reports the temperature it senses (via the resistance reading) to the controller board. The controller board turns the valves on or off to attain an average temperature reading per its programming." What I was confused about is most of the time ATC limits the hot water temperature, but does not appear to with the Maytag mvwp575gw when I had it installed per instructions. Rather, its purpose seems to be to keep the warm and cold water temperatures within a specified range instead of just programming the board to allow so much hot or cold tap without knowing the temperatures. I needed to know what those ranges are, so I could see how to best tackle this. I need to be able to control the temperature for the Normal cycle.
According to some information from someone at Maytag, this is what he said. Hot is supposed to be straight "Hot" or whatever the water heater is set at. The target temperature for warm is 100 degrees F. and cold is 65 degrees F. These are the results I got when I tested the washer installed with no modifications (relocating thermistor or a combined hot/cold line) in the summer keeping in mind the tap cold is much warmer this time of year. I have some trouble hearing, but I thought Eugene said the "Hot" temperature of the Maytag was 90 degrees in the comparison he did between the Maytag mvwpp575gw and SQ TC5. According to Maytag, the hot is not supposed to be tempered at all.
With automatic temperature control, the actual temperature can be +- 15 degrees of that target. This can make a big difference especially if it is "lower than expected", but according to Maytag this does not apply to "Hot".
The person thought the target temperature for the Normal cycle was cold or about 65 degrees.
If this is true, I have no idea why they even bothered to put ATC on this washer. It is just another part that can fail. Does it not increase wear and tear on the water valves? Also, doesn't this abrupt shutting off cause the water hammer noise I should have bought arrestors for when I first got this washer? Someone would have to have their hot water heater set much higher than recommended to benefit from any tempering of the warm temperatures the ATC might do to "save energy" if hot is hot tap and 100 is the target temperatures for warm and 65 for cold. The only benefit is adding some warm to the cold and cooler washes to maintain a minimum temperature. For others reading this, ATC is on a lot of washers.
So to please the government, I have to have a control board in my machine that costs half the price of the machine, causes unnecessary wear/tear on my water valves, adds another part that can fail, and causes me to use more water for the smaller loads since there is no temperature control for the only half tub cycle?
If I understand this correctly, then I need to relocate the thermistor so I reduce the number of times the water valves shut on and off for the main cycles (so that *I* control that). I also need to add a cold/hot mixed line back only this time with shutoffs on the lines themselves if I want Hot or warm for the Normal cycle.
I have googled adding inline resistors, bypassing thermistors, etc. with no luck so far. However, I am willing to consider this if someone can find a way to do it.
I realize the control boards can add some features. However, there are two of these in the SQ TC5. I'd rather replace a timer for under $100 than something that costs half as much as the machine does. Sigh.
|Post# 1035596 , Reply# 13   6/18/2019 at 07:42 (218 days old) by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)  || |
So many misconceptions
turning the inlet valves on and off does not hurt them, they are also slow-close design so you should not have water hammer.
Mechanical washer timers do not cost $100 anymore, try $200 or more.
I have never seen a bad temperature thermistor on a washer.
I am one of the majority of Americans that have and continue to vote for greater energy efficiency, climate change is real.
|Post# 1035597 , Reply# 14   6/18/2019 at 08:28 (218 days old) by PinkPower4 (USA)  || |
No misconceptions here. I have water hammer. I would rather replace a timer. Simpler is better. Not all timers cost that much. I believe in saving energy. This is why my water heater is set to 120 degrees, and I will turn off the hot hose so the rinses can be cold.
|Post# 1035598 , Reply# 15   6/18/2019 at 08:32 (218 days old) by PinkPower4 (USA)  || |
Also, these new "disposable" appliances are not good for energy savings either.
|Post# 1035646 , Reply# 16   6/18/2019 at 14:59 (218 days old) by henene4 (Germany)  || |
I don't know in which world timers are simple.
Timers are not repairable, period. If contacts arc, get welded shut or otherwise damaged they are toast.
If the timer motor dies it could theoreticly be replaced sometimes, but finding the right part is unlikely.
However, on most PCBs, many parts can easily be soldered of, swapped and replaced.
If you think you can replace a timer on a machine, take the 20min to learn to solder and you can fix 90% of all electronic appliances today.
And when you say "How do I know which part is broken?" or "It's always the chips that die!"
a) Burnt part, exploded part, bulged part, discoloured part or multimeter.
b) When is the last time you saw a dead CPU in a system?
|Post# 1035650 , Reply# 17   6/18/2019 at 15:48 (218 days old) by PinkPower4 (USA)  || |
There are two different viewpoints. Neither is wrong. One viewpoint comes from people who can repair these parts. Another viewpoint comes from the person that has to pay someone to repair these parts. Notice I used the word, "replace", which is something I can do. If I cannot fix this myself, guess where this supposedly "eco" friendly appliance is going? In the dump. How is that good for our environment when the appliance is only a few years old.
All I wanted to was find a way to have hot water when I needed it, so I did not have to waste a whole tub for small loads. My trick for the eco cycle doesn't work now either because my AC is on 80+ (in the HOT South) and/or I need to just reinstall a mixed line. If did not work full time, go to college, raise kids, etc. I would line dry clothes too. So I use more hot water than some. I bet I use overall less energy than most.
We all have different needs or they would not have the selection they do 😊
|Post# 1035654 , Reply# 18   6/18/2019 at 16:41 (218 days old) by PinkPower4 (USA)  || |
In spite of the title, this thread has gone completely off topic. Thank you to all those that tried to help. It is very much appreciated. 😊
|Post# 1035657 , Reply# 19   6/18/2019 at 17:10 (218 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)  || |
Seems the reasonable workaround for your temp issue is manual control by way of a Y-connector on a single tap with hot/cold faucets, or whatever other arrangement you could muster-up. That would feed your choice of mixed temperature to both the hot and cold valves so that's what'd flow in regardless of which valve is active.
|Post# 1035694 , Reply# 20   6/19/2019 at 06:26 (217 days old) by PinkPower4 (USA)  || |
For those who do not know me, I do have some technical skills. I have installed custom firmware on my router, Kindles, phones, and more. I can install stuff like dishwashers, ceiling fans, etc. I am great at problem-solving issues with computers and have fixed many. With Google or YouTube, I have been able to fix many things. So far I have not soldered anything. Maybe I can learn.
However, I did want to add this for anyone else reading. I do not know if my thermistor is working correctly. At some point, the setup I had was no longer working. I do not check the water temperature every time I do the load. Was it my setup? Was it the temperature of the room? The house AC is 80+. I know the addon room with no insulation and not much ventilation is hotter. Is the user manual and Tech sheet for this washer actually for this washer (or did they borrow info from the commercial line and not bother to update for the changes to this particular washer)? The ATC does not seem to apply for the "Hot" or "Warm" in the way it I have read it does with other HE machines, yet the manual clearly states wash temperatures will be cooler. It seems like the difference is more dependent on the ground water temp. Some have reported cooler wash temperatures.
I had read in the manual that, "Fault is displayed when washer detects water temperature 105°F (41°C) or higher during rinse cycle." It doesn't say anything about the wash cycle, so I tried hooking only a hot and cold line to the cold inlet valve and a hot to the hot inlet valve. I put the washer on "tap cold" and ran tap hot at 120 degrees F. My thermistor was in its correct location. Not only did I not get an error code for the wash cycle, but I did not get an error code for the rinse cycle either. I also checked for error codes going into the diagnostic mode.
I also read in another location, "NOTE: Most thermistor errors are a result of the resistor being out of range. If the temperature thermistor malfunctions, the
washer will default to pre-programmed wash settings." Is it possible that my washer is operating in "pre-programmed wash settings" and not with ATC because this thermistor may not be working. I do not have an Ohm meter to test.
Anyway, I don't expect answers to this. I felt the need to come back and correct this part. Anyone else trying anything may not have the same results I did because I really am not sure if my thermistor is working correctly or not.
However, it looks like I can run hot to hot and a mixed line to the cold inlet valve with some shutoffs designed for indoor and hot water use to solve my issue.
|Post# 1035695 , Reply# 21   6/19/2019 at 06:42 (217 days old) by PinkPower4 (USA)  || |
Oops. Forgot to add. If I get an error in the future with this setup, I will try relocating the thermistor to where it senses the air instead of water temp.
|Post# 1035696 , Reply# 22   6/19/2019 at 06:57 (217 days old) by retro-man (nashua,nh - boston,ma)  || |
I have 2 different washers where the thermistor have gone bad. One is Maytag that won't give hot water most of the time. Switches on and off real quick and stays cold most times when it is on hot fill, so water is basically cold in the tub. The other is a Frigidaire that when on hot fill it is totally hot fill. It did not used to be like that, was always a mix of hot and cold opening occasionally. So these do go bad, just like any other part in a washing machine.
|Post# 1035755 , Reply# 23   6/20/2019 at 01:28 (217 days old) by MattL (Flushing, MI)  || |
Thermisters are cheap to replace.