Thread Number: 78699
/ Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
Maytag MVWP575GW - How to Get Hot Tap Water Wash
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|Post# 1026934   3/13/2019 at 06:05 by PinkPower4 (USA)  || |
For those who want more control over their water settings, the information shown in this video also works for the Maytag mvwp575gw--the commercial residential washer sold in local appliance stores. You would then have hot (HOT) or cold only (any other water temp settings). A security screwdriving set would be needed to remove the screws on the washer's console and a flat head screwdriver or plastic tool that one might use to open a phone for gently pushing out the plastic tabs that hold the thermistor in place.
If you also add the appropriate APPROVED FOR INDOOR USE AND HOT WATER PLUMBING PARTS, one could mix a hot and cold line to the COLD while still having hot only to the HOT. This would provide a "warmer" warm and warm rinses--this depends on your water heater setting. For those who like fabric softener, how does that work with cold rinses anyway?
The information I can find suggests that the thermistor regulates the hot, warm, and cold water temperatures on this and similar washers by either adding hot or cold water to adjust the temperatures accordingly. Therefore, adding the mixer line ONLY without gently moving the thermistor to another location (as shown in the video linked) may cause error messages--where lights start blinking on the control panel.
Hot is just over 100 degrees F.
Warm is around 75 to 80 F.
The Normal (Eco) wash now becomes a lot more useful :-). Hot is pure hot. Warm is warmer. Any of the other water temp settings is the mix of the hot and cold line unless a switch is added to the y mixer that could turn off the hot to that line when needed, but that is where is where even more caution is needed.
Disclaimer: One would risk voiding the five year parts and labor warranty and assumes all risks and liabilities. I have seen some videos where some have attempted to mix the hot and cold lines by using a y with switches on them that are for cold water only and outdoor use only. This is really risky and NOT advisable unless you really want a surprise INDOOR SWIMMING POOL some day! Anyone here with knowledge know of an approved metal Y or thoughts on the Y mixer hose made specifically for this purpose and for use with washer machines. Finally, anyone know of an approved Y with a switch that would work for indoor and hot water plumbing for those who need access to just cold water sometimes? What metal material is recommended? Brass? I would think they should be changed out on a regular basis just like hoses.
The clean washer cycle that one can only get to by using diagnostics and uses pure hot water does not work for washing clothes. It fills the tub in increments and does not really do the "wash" part of the cycle.
I do not sell or repair washers for a living. I am just a consumer.
What are your thoughts? This could be useful to people who do not want the new Speed Queen 2018 and newer agitub design that does not regulate water temp and has load size selector.
The older models Speed Queens, even the LWN432 models, are nowhere to be found in many areas. The only place I have seen them at is applianceconnections.com, which has several negative reviews through BBB. The authorized Speed Queen dealers in my area say they cannot get them.
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|Post# 1027010 , Reply# 1   3/14/2019 at 04:00 by Yogitunes (New Jersey)  || |
a few things that I have done to acquire a hot water wash.....
water heater setting.....140 or higher...
remove the restrictor from the hot water side of the valve....
the most I see is a 10 degree drop.....my water heater is set at 160....
all brass valves, with or without individual valves, can be found at Lowes or HomeDepot...
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|Post# 1027114 , Reply# 2   3/15/2019 at 07:09 by PinkPower4 (USA)  || |
I was not able to go back and edit my original post.
New energy regulations required this:
Temperature senses and maintains uniform water temperatures by regulating incoming hot and cold water [for wash and rinse cycles]. Select a wash temperature based on the type of fabric and soils being washed. For best results, and following the garment label instructions, use the warmest wash water safe for your fabric.
• Normal, Warm, and Hot water may be cooler than your previous washer. Deep Water cycles will provide higher temperatures for the wash cycle.
• Even in a cold or cool water wash, some warm water may be added to the washer to maintain a minimum temperature.
Rinses are cold now.
This would be GREAT if the washer also had ONE cycle that would also allow a true hot water setting. It does not seem like there is one. Can someone confirm this?
I could not find a wash cycle on this machine that uses hot tap only except for the clean cycle, which fills the tub in increments only and is not suitable for washing a load of clothes. One also has to enter the diagnostics mode on this washer to get to this clean cycle.
For hot tap only water, one has to bypass the sensor. Two ways to do this include:
1. One is to let the washer start filling but add your own hot tap water to the tub. I would pause the washer after it started filling. However, if you pause the washer longer than ten minutes, the cycle is cancelled. This would work if you have access to a separate hot tap water source. The washer seems to quit filling when the appropriate water level is reached whether it is from its own auto fill or by the user adding water directly to the tub. Can someone confirm this?
2. Gently move the thermistor sensor as shown in the video. This reduces your water temperature settings to only having two instead of a varying degrees. Please note, one must either the HOT for hot water line or TAP COLD for the cold water line for best results.
A Y mixer can allow one to join a second hot line and the existing cold line to the cold valve of the back of the washer, so that the water temperatures are HOT (hot) or TAP COLD (hot/cold mix--this could be tweaked by the user). I would make sure any modifications are approved for INDOOR AND HOT WATER use. Many I found in the hardware stores were labeled for outdoor and cold water use only. As an extra precaution, I recommend getting a water sensor. Some will even hook into your home security system. Better yet, have a plumber do this!
This requires a security screwdriver set with a T20 to remove the screws from the console and other common tools for the Y mixer.
Now I will be using more energy than I would have if the government would have just left everything alone. I was fine with cold rinses, but I needed HOT for whites and pet bedding.
The normal cycle works much better now that I have a HOT TAP only and warm setting. I am fine with spray rinses too. If I want a half tub rinse, I just cancel the cycle after it washes. I restart the Normal cycle. Now I have a half tub rinse followed by three spray rinses or I can choose to cancel the cycle again and just put it on Drain/Spin. Bonus: Normal loads seem take less time to dry not only because the load size is smaller but because the smaller load can be spun out better (very comparable to how they felt coming out of the front load with a much higher spin).
The cleaning performance of this washer is outstanding. Yes, it requires a bit of effort to achieve the same thing that could be done without hassle years ago because of the government trying to make water level and water temperature selection less complicated.
However, user does risk voiding the five years parts and labor warranty. User assume ALL risks AND liabilities of any modifications made to achieve this. I do not sell or repair washers or have a plumber's license. I chose to post in this forum, so more knowledgeable members can add their input.
I hope that helps and is a little easier to understand.
|Post# 1027118 , Reply# 3   3/15/2019 at 08:50 by Yogitunes (New Jersey)  || |
it has become a dilemma for some with these new washers....
many are getting more harder to alter to our liking....some machines will even detect if both faucets are not turned on, or if the hoses are reversed...
probably always best to turn off your faucets to the washer when it is not in use, unplugging the unit wouldn't hurt either...
many have just added a 'Y' at the hot tap, with an extra hose, and manually added water to the machine.....purging the hot water line before starting wash is a benefit as well...
the 'NORMAL' cycle on most of these machine by Gov't Regulations use the least amount of energy....ie, water temp and water levels....
you have to experiment with your machine to see what each cycle and option would give you....
I have one that is more precise to select the cycle by water level needed.....Normal = Mini, Casual/Easy Care = Medium, Towel/Sheets = Large
|Post# 1027251 , Reply# 4   3/17/2019 at 00:39 by MattL (Flushing, MI)  || |
Speaking of thermisters, what I did on one of my Duets was to modify the resistance of the thermistor. It's been close to 10 years but using the wiring diagram I found what the various resistances that controlled the temp and either added or subtracted resistance to get a hotter wash.
|Post# 1027472 , Reply# 5   3/19/2019 at 06:15 by PinkPower4 (USA)  || |
@MattL I have fixed computers and phones, but this is new to me. I tried to Google how to modify resistance of thermistor, but it was without success.
I have the chart that shows how to test this thermistor for resistance at different levels and what the reading should be if it is good at all the different levels using an ohmmeter. It looks like the range this themistor can be tested goes from 32 degrees F to 149 degrees F.
It looks like the thermistor itself is at J3 pins 9 (input) and 10 (GND). Next to this is a box that shows 50F (cool?), 77F (warm?), and 104 F (hot?). Since this is copyright material, I don't think I can post it.
It looks like one will get an error code only if the rinse water is above 105 F, so one cannot just reverse the hot and cold hoses and just leave the thermistor in place. This is why the two options I mentioned in my second post should work (at least they did for me).
This washer has cold tap, cold, cool, warm, and hot settings. The instructions manual states to set the hot water heater to 120 F. Mine was slighty higher.
Not having hot water was a deal breaker. The bearings on the front loader are now shot, and I realized the items that I used it for were not coming out clean in the Maytag washer despite the abundance of water and wash action. The front loader did have a built-in water heater for the sani-cycle. Hot tap only water was needed for the new Maytag! Now I am using more energy. I set my water heater higher because there is no thermistor to regulate the warm temperature, which is now a mixture of the incoming hot and cold water at whatever temp they come in at. I also needed it a little higher since there is no built-in water heater, but what I had it set at may have worked okay instead of this lukewarm hot (which did work well for everything else). I also am using warm water for rinses when cold worked just fine. I have gently moved the thermistor and mixed the hot and cold lines.
Senseless forced regulations like this have crippled these machines. I would love to save energy and be kinder to our environment and use these options when I can. New regulations do not give me that choice, so now I am using more energy. If I could modify the resistance of that thermistor, maybe I could have a true hot for those cycles when needed and go back to letting the machine regulate the warm and cool temps as well as using cold for rinses.
Thank you both, @Yogitunes and @MattL, for your information.
|Post# 1027528 , Reply# 6   3/20/2019 at 02:25 by MattL (Flushing, MI)  || |
I did the thermister mod about 9 years ago so my memory is a little foggy, but never had an error message. My goal was to make the machine thing the water temp is lower than it actually is, thereby getting more hot water. When I check the water temp it did go up, so I was happy.