Thread Number: 78815  /  Tag: Other Home Products or Autos
How to clean finished wood
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Post# 1028014   3/25/2019 at 23:29 (1,830 days old) by abcomatic (Bradford, Illinois)        

HI all, I have a 1927 Marshall and Wendell grand piano with an Ampico player. I am having new bass string made for the piano and before they arrive and the tuner installs them, I want to clean the finish on the lid. I would guess it has a lacquer
finish on it? I was thinking about using Murphy's Oil soap on it? What do you all think I should use on this to clean it? Thanks for your help. Gary





Post# 1028039 , Reply# 1   3/26/2019 at 14:06 (1,829 days old) by Oliger (Indianapolis, Indiana)        

A finish that old is probably shellac. If it is shellac, NO MURPHY's! I would just clean it as good as you can with a tiny bit of soap and water, let it dry and then use a hard paste wax on it. That's how I take care of all the shellac wood in my house from 1910. Wood is shiny and still looks new at 109 years old.

Post# 1028065 , Reply# 2   3/26/2019 at 21:05 (1,829 days old) by abcomatic (Bradford, Illinois)        

Thanks Jon, I appreciate your input. Gary

Post# 1028090 , Reply# 3   3/27/2019 at 08:06 (1,828 days old) by dermacie (my forever home (Glenshaw, PA))        

dermacie's profile picture
I would concur I would use the gentlest cleaning possible like dish detergent and water and I use Johnson's paste wax on my wood. I recently used it on my doors at home which are 50 year old birch flush doors. It not only shined them it clean off dirt that cleaners left behind. Only down side to it is the smell is awful and I would wear gloves but once it is done it is great.

I also really love Howard's semi liquid orange beeswax. It does a great job with wood that looks dried out. I think every household should have them both.


Post# 1028096 , Reply# 4   3/27/2019 at 09:12 (1,828 days old) by Oliger (Indianapolis, Indiana)        

If you put a picture of the finish on here, I can give you better advice. If it has an alligator texture anywhere on it, than it is shellac for sure.

Post# 1028130 , Reply# 5   3/27/2019 at 15:30 (1,828 days old) by abcomatic (Bradford, Illinois)        



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Post# 1028148 , Reply# 6   3/27/2019 at 20:48 (1,828 days old) by Oliger (Indianapolis, Indiana)        

History lesson: Before the 1960's polyurethane, and waterproof finishes did not exist. Finishes before the 1920s were usually many layers of orange shellac. From the mid 20's to the late 30's dark finishes became popular, this time made of wood stain with layers of shellac on top. (Look up French polishing, this is the type of finish on your piano.) Over time shellac becomes dull and darkens with age.

Older finishes have cracks and blemishes unable to be seen with the naked eye. If you were to put Murphy's oil soap on it, your finish would turn cloudy and it's a real PITA to clean off. Take a clean rag and get it wet and then wring as much water out as you can (Too much water and your finish will turn white) and then put a drop or two of dish soap and wipe it down gently. Don't rub too hard, especially on the two arms that stick up at both ends of the keyboard. ( people usually rest hands and arms there so the finish will be softer) Then get a good hard paste wax (Like what you would use on a car) and do one surface at a time, rub on and then polish off. 2-3 layers on each surface and it will look brand new!
If you ever plan on refinishing it, never ever use pledge, or anything like it.

*If your finish has an alligator texture to it*
Just wipe it down, but don't wax it. You will have to live with it.



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