Thread Number: 78839  /  Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
I have only cold water source - any washers which have internal heaters?
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Post# 1028245   3/28/2019 at 21:18 by OhMeOhMy (San Francisco, CA)        

Are there any? I want to use the washer for cold, warm and hot water washing. I am in the US. Prefer front-loading machine.

The location where I'd like to move my washer to has only cold water pipes. TY!


Post# 1028253 , Reply# 1   3/28/2019 at 21:48 by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

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Asko for sure can.  According to their website, Asko can be switched from hot supply to no hot supply in the programming menu...it's a 240V machine.  Not sure about Bosch on the water connections but it also is a 240V machine so it can heat up to 170F.  My Miele can be switched between hot/no hot connection, but unsure about the new 120V Mieles....I think the 240V Little Giants can, but you'll pay dearly for one of them. 


Post# 1028255 , Reply# 2   3/28/2019 at 22:42 by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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Greg has about your only choices...

for many of todays machines, a lot wont operate without both supplies attached...

some will shut down if both supplies are not attached, and if it calls for hot, even for dispensing detergent only, and there is none, again, it will shut down...

there are some machines that will detect of the water not being turned on, or if the hoses were reversed...

some stuff you can by-pass, some you cannot...


Post# 1028260 , Reply# 3   3/29/2019 at 00:11 by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, the Netherlands)        

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Whirlpool has two 24" models with cold water connection only. They can't even be connected to hot water.


www.whirlpool.com/laundry...

www.whirlpool.com/laundry/washer...



Post# 1028274 , Reply# 4   3/29/2019 at 07:59 by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
WHirlpool 24" FL Washers With built in heater

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Yes indeed Louis, We have sold a lot of these little WPs and so far so good, it is differently one of the better buys for your situation as long as you don't need a huge machine.

 

John


Post# 1028318 , Reply# 5   3/29/2019 at 16:22 by jerrod6 (United States of America)        

I think you can connect the Miele W1 to cold water and it will heat the water. 120v is slower than 220V.

Post# 1028329 , Reply# 6   3/29/2019 at 18:15 by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)        
220v

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I have a DUMB question.

If someone in the USA decides to buy a 220V washer, would a 220V power strip work so you could plug that into the 220V dryer outlet, giving you more 220V outlets?


Post# 1028331 , Reply# 7   3/29/2019 at 18:34 by stricklybojack (San Diego, CA)        

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.
If you ran multiple 240v ithings from one outlet off a power strip, at the same time, you run up against the total amperage of the outlet. Dryers are usually 30 amps and electric oven/stoves are 50 amps...hence the different plugs.
What any given appliance may draw is another matter. Also There are cords that dumb down a 240 to two 120v outlets and so one. I had a guy want a dryer to run off the utility pedestal at an RV campground. It had 50 amp 240v but with a different plug than a dryer or oven use.
I found you can order a plug/pig tail that fit the RV “shore power” pedestal and then you could install eyelets to attach to the dryer.


Post# 1028368 , Reply# 8   3/30/2019 at 04:02 by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

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Miele has/had that adapter for people with just one 240V outlet in their laundry room that enabled the user to plug a Miele washer AND Miele dryer into the same outlet.  Asko washers plug into the back of the Asko dryer.  Bosch may too (not sure) looked at one at Lowes but don't remember exactly.


Post# 1028370 , Reply# 9   3/30/2019 at 07:03 by logixx (Germany)        

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Blomberg also sell 240V in the US where both inlets can be cold water according to the manual.

www.blombergappliances.co...


Post# 1028433 , Reply# 10   3/30/2019 at 18:21 by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

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"If someone in the USA decides to buy a 220V washer, would a 220V power strip work so you could plug that into the 220V dryer outlet, giving you more 220V outlets?"

Much would depend upon constant rated max load for power strip.

Where possible something that is going to draw high loads for long periods (such as with resistance heating) you really want to plug it directly into wall outlet. That or if using a power strip (and or even an extension cord) the wiring must be able to withstand load without risk of over heating. No end of fires are started because of an overloaded power strip or extension cord.

Power strips with built in circuit breakers likely will trip if demand is too great or near max for too long. Even with a 20amp rated power strip my WP portable dryer will cause it to trip if conditions are right. Usually the thing will be very warm which to me is an indication dryer is pulling too much power for strip to handle.

Much of all this comes down to diameter wire used for cord/wiring on the power strip or extension cords.

My AEG Lavamat washers, dryer, and Pfaff ironers all specifically warn against being used with power strips or extension cords. One is supposed to plug them into properly rated wall outlet only.


Post# 1028447 , Reply# 11   3/30/2019 at 20:09 by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
Power Strips For 208-240 Volt Appliances ?

combo52's profile picture

There really is no such thing generally available, but Miele for example does sell a special power spliter that allows running two Miele laundry appliances that are both about 3000 watts on one 30 Amp 208-240 volt circuit.

 

It is also easy to make an adptor to allow two appliances to operate off one circuit, you just have to do it correctly and then there is NO hazard at all.

 

Note: there is generally no such thing as 220 volts in the US, when you hear someone saying 110 or 220 volts you immediately assume they don't know what they are talking about.

 

John


Post# 1028467 , Reply# 12   3/30/2019 at 22:31 by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Had to read this book as part of a college course.

launderess's profile picture
Did one a world of good: fgiasson.com/blog/index.php/2005/...


Eight ways to change people without giving offense or arousing resentment:

1.Begin with praise and honest appreciation
2.Call attention to people’s mistakes indirectly
3.Ask questions instead of giving direct orders
4.Let the other man save his face
5.Praise the slightest improvement and praise every improvement. Be “hearty in you approbation and lavish in your praise.”
6.Give the other person a fine reputation to live up to
7.Use encouragement. Make the fault seem easy to correct
8.Make the other person happy about doing the thing you suggest


Just a bit of information, do with it what you will.


Post# 1028468 , Reply# 13   3/30/2019 at 22:36 by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Power Strips For 208-240 Volt Appliances

launderess's profile picture


Oh I don't know....

You aren't going to be running a dryer or any other appliance that draws high amounts of power for long periods on this baby, but a washer might prove doable. Again we're talking about an appliance with "European" plug. Note without a way to ground this isn't a recommended solution out of the box.



KRIEGER Universal Power Strip AC 220-240V Surge Protector with Heavy Duty German Schuko Plug

www.amazon.com/Universal-...


Post# 1028473 , Reply# 14   3/30/2019 at 22:56 by RP2813 (West Coast)        

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The best solution for a 240V washer is to pair it up with a gas dryer.


Post# 1028496 , Reply# 15   3/31/2019 at 03:53 by mrboilwash (Munich,Germany)        

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Well, in John`s defense there`s diplomacy which isn`t a bad thing and then there`s plain bootlicking or even sarcasm.
"Begin with praise and honest appreciation" could be misinterpreted.
Personally prefer it straight in the face if someone wants to criticize me over giving me BS.

We have a similar situation in Germany so that 220V does not exist. At least not anymore as the voltage got raised to 230V somewhere in the 80s I think.
Most people (including myself) still say 220 when they mean 230 just because 220 was the golden standard for decades, in some areas even from right the beginning of electrification. I have my doubts they all don`t know what they are talking about.
I could imagine a lot of people in the US still say 110 when they actually mean 120.


Post# 1028561 , Reply# 16   3/31/2019 at 17:52 by cuffs054 (MONTICELLO, GA)        

 That's a nice looking machine, I'm kinda interested.


Post# 1028599 , Reply# 17   3/31/2019 at 21:59 by warmsecondrinse (Fort Lee, NJ)        

I'm sure I'm not the only one, but I'm frequently on aw.org when I'm first waking up or shortly before bed. Either way I'm often not fully awake so if I'm not corrected directly, I frequently miss it. YMMV.

I've found that when I use numbers more often than not I'm 'corrected':
"We don't have 120; we have 110" or "That a/c plug is 220, not 240" etc. I imagine this is because many things are or used to be labelled "110-120v" and "220-240v"

To avoid that whole fruitless discussion I break it down to 3 things:
1. A regular plug.
2. A regular plug that has its own fuse, like your washing machine.
3. One of those special plugs like for an electric stove or electric clothes dryer.

Yes, I know it's more likely an "outlet" and a "circuit breaker" but if I use those words I lose people.

I think we here at aw.org (and I definitely include myself!!!) tend to forget that most people think the amount of electricity used corresponds to the number of items plugged in. Example: 5 lamps each with a 25 watt bulb draw way more electricity than two lamps each with a 100 watt bulb. Why? 5 > 2. Period.

I once lived in a place that had 24x24x4" hot water radiators replaced by 24" of 2" pipe...seriously. I was only able to get across the problem by asking which they thought would take more water to fill up, the radiator or the pipe. They said "the radiator, of course." I responded with "Right, before you had all that water throwing its heat off into the room and now you just have that little bit in the pipe trying to do the same job. That's why you're cold."

Don't even get me started on "radiators" vs "convectors"...

Re: #12

I agree in principle 100%, but I've found that for those things to work in real life the other person needs to be engaged in the communication. More and more often as I get older I receive what sounds like verbal tape recordings triggered by a few of the words I used in my query.... rather like in the old days of internet searching when you wanted to know the drive time from Intercourse to Blue Ball, Penn. and you got a raft Amish porn sites........

Jim


Post# 1028646 , Reply# 18   4/1/2019 at 08:12 by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
why not just get a point-of-use water heater and be done with it?

it would save on purging the lines, dedicated to just the washer and maybe a sink...set to any temp you want

its a FL machine, you only need enough hot water for the first wash...

then you could choose any machine you want....




Post# 1029933 , Reply# 19   4/15/2019 at 11:06 by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

The only fly in that ointment is that the water coming into a cool (room temperature) drum is greatly cooled by the cold metal so you are in a similar situation like where a KA dw spent time and energy heating water to throw against cold dishware. Increasing the incoming water temp much above 140 might harm the water valve. While I regret that my SQ fl does not have a heater, I find that I can get around that by running hot water to the sink, a gallon or so, allowing the empty machine to fill with 140-145F water from the tap and letting it tumble for 3-5 minutes before stopping it and letting it drain. I load it and restart it with hot water, again purged until it runs at 140F, and get a good hot (140F as measured with one of those infrared trigger thermometers) wash for white towels. Alternately, you could settle for lower wash temps with a point of use heater and use chlorine bleach for whitening and disinfecting.


Post# 1030070 , Reply# 20   4/16/2019 at 15:15 by jerrod6 (United States of America)        
For cold fill what about a W1?

I have a Miele W1 washer. It is 110V but it will heat the water up to 170F for sanitize, up into the 180s for the clean machine cycle, and most cotton cycles will heat to 140F. Not so on the Normal cycle since it is the one that is used for Energy Star ratings but all the rest will heat to what you select. It is small compared to many washers as it will only hold 17 pounds fully loaded, but I have no trouble washing a queen comforter with room to spare, so a king might fit, but how many loads are a large comforter?

You also get the option of having 3 rinses as default on many cycles and adding an extra rinse gives you 4. If you have allergies to detergent, you can select the max rinse setting which raises the water level in all rinses to 1/4 way up into the door. I love this because I have had problems with detergent rashes.

Most models have the softsteam feature which is used after the cycle is complete. For this, the washer uses steam and a lot of it, to smooth out wrinkles before you put them into the dryer.

For the prewash, it starts with a cold fill and heats the water to warm, but for the wash it will heat to whatever temperature you have selected. You can opt to use a cold fill only if you want or that's all you have.

I would check the availability of service before getting one but if you are close to a service center it is worth consideration.


Post# 1030071 , Reply# 21   4/16/2019 at 15:20 by jerrod6 (United States of America)        
Correction

The washer is 120V.

Post# 1030108 , Reply# 22   4/17/2019 at 04:58 by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, the Netherlands)        

foraloysius's profile picture
I guess we will never see the end of this, the OP has never responded to the first post, neither here or on houzz.com.

www.houzz.com/discussions...





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