Thread Number: 79015  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
W1986 Too much?
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Post# 1029700   4/12/2019 at 20:19 by Spacedogb (Lafayette, LA)        

Those who have a Miele W1986 how full do you usually fill the tub for a wash. I just took it out of storage and did a few loads. Iím noticing some scratching around the door. glass. There were a lot of scratches from the previous owner. I ordered new suspension dampeners and springs for it this week. Iím hoping Iím not overloading because I fill it to the top till I can just shut the door. Any tips or suggestions would be great

Post# 1029705 , Reply# 1   4/12/2019 at 20:58 by Launderess (Quiet Please, Thereīs a Lady on Stage)        

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W 1900 series like previous incarnations of Miele washers were made for at least on Cottons/Normal to fill drum to capacity. That is leaving about a fist or so room at space between top of wash and tub. All this taking into account cottons/linens will compact down quite a bit when fully wet.

Those scratches around porthole glass speak (IMHO) to shocks that want replacing as current aren't fully controlling tub movements. Had same damage to ours which was at first notice slight, but then things got worse. Put washer out of commission until Miele tech could come out and replace the shocks. Things have been fine since.

If you have any sort of decent bathroom or whatever scale, weigh an average load. IIRC the W1986 was rated for a few kilos more than the 1918, so should hold about 12 pounds of cottons/linens.

One thing to watch out for is unbalanced but otherwise properly sized loads. Things like sheets or something getting bunched into a knot/ball that the washer cannot untangle. When washer goes into spin often there is a sudden *bang* as tub leaps about. If shocks are going those leaps could be rather severe.

Your washer has a better OOB control system than my W1070 which should help. But overall all these early Miele washers were built to last; that is they will spin with unbalanced loads and take a bit of abuse in process.

Post# 1029713 , Reply# 2   4/12/2019 at 21:22 by Spacedogb (Lafayette, LA)        

Thank you Launderess for the response. I canít wait to see the difference in spin once the shocks are in.

Post# 1029733 , Reply# 3   4/13/2019 at 04:34 by gizmo (Great Ocean Road, Victoria, Au)        
I second that motion...

After some years of the spinning drum regularly banging the door glass, I finally fitted new shocks to my LG front loader. All banging has ceased, spins like a new one.

I gave a Miele W830 (or 840?) to a friend some years ago, it came back for a bit of fault finding recently, the belt had skipped over a couple of grooves and was rubbing on the edge of the outer drum, making a weird noise. I noticed the shocks had absolutely no resistance to movement, and there were signs of damage inside the cabinet. I have a pair of new shocks for it waiting to be installed - Cost a bit over $20 including postage from Latvia(or Lithuania, I forget) when they were $160 a pair here in Aus. Isn't the internet wonderful?

I bet you will be pleased with the new shockers.

Post# 1029734 , Reply# 4   4/13/2019 at 05:30 by Launderess (Quiet Please, Thereīs a Lady on Stage)        
Forgot to mention

launderess's profile picture
Easy way to tell if one or both shocks are gone with these older Miele washers is to pop off the lid; then push down on the tub. Dampers should be quite ridged; if you are getting plenty of play and or bouncy, bouncy, then those dampers need replacing. Use plural since according to Miele tech who did mine (muttering under his breath entire time), best to replace both at same time.

From our favourite Youtuber from Germany who knows his way around Miele washers:

You can see there here difference between washers with good shocks versus those that are going or already gone.

Post# 1030156 , Reply# 5   4/17/2019 at 21:17 by Spacedogb (Lafayette, LA)        

Well guys I got the shocks installed and the difference is astounding. It only took me about 20 mins to replace the shocks. If anyone ever has to perform this task please start with the left shock as it will frustrate the hell out of you. I used a combination of extensions and the whole process went very smoothly the biggest hurdle I had was reattaching the nut and bolt on the left side. The right side shock took all of two minutes. I noticed the right shock had been leaking oil which is why I ordered new shocks. Upon removal the right shock disintegrated in my hand. For the first time since I Purchased this machine used Iíve actually seen it go from a rinse directly into a spin without having to tumble.

Post# 1030162 , Reply# 6   4/17/2019 at 22:52 by Launderess (Quiet Please, Thereīs a Lady on Stage)        
Left shock

launderess's profile picture
Was going to warn, but felt it best to let you experience that fun on your own. *LOL*

On these older Miele washers (W700, W1070, W19XX etc...) washers getting to the right shock is a rather simple affair. OTOH because of detergent drawer/water path and some other bits right is a tight squeeze. Hence my comment above about the tech who did mine muttering under his breath.

Yes, you'll need those ratchet extensions. *LOL*

Miele designed those washers to be serviced from front; something they no longer do IIRC. Modern offerings have side and maybe even back panels that can be removed. Changing shocks on the newer machines is simple as one simply has to remove side panel and everything is exposed.

Maddening thing about Miele is that even if you tell them over telephone when booking appointment it is shocks going, they still only come out first time to diagnose. You then have to book on another day for them to come back and do the work. This can be one week, two weeks or more later.

Congrats and good job. Those new shocks should get you through next fifteen or twenty years (if not longer). It will come down to how you use the washer and frequency.

Be thankful you attended to the shocks before any damage occurred to four suspension springs. This includes cracking/breaking any of the plastic supports they grip into.

This post was last edited 04/18/2019 at 03:45
Post# 1030173 , Reply# 7   4/18/2019 at 03:14 by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

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I'm late to the conversation since I worked the past 4 nights but I second what Launderess said about the amount of laundry in the drum.  I layer mine til I can just open my hand between the top of the clothes and the top of the drum....except for towels, I use bath sheets and dry they occupy quite a bit of space so I tend to stuff them in but when they get wet they are at the appropriate level.  I've been meaning to get down and check the shocks on mine myself because I've been noticing a little more play when it's getting ready to spin; the Asko could probably use a new set too.

Post# 1030244 , Reply# 8   4/19/2019 at 03:00 by Spacedogb (Lafayette, LA)        
Asko shocks

askolover I did the shocks on my W660 and I will NEVER do those again!!!! They are friction fit and a nightmare to get into place.

Post# 1030245 , Reply# 9   4/19/2019 at 04:27 by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

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If I remember correctly, the ones on my Asko (22 years old) are bolted in at the top and bottom.  It doesn't have the quattro system (wasn't available yet). 

Do you happen to have the Miele part # for the shocks on the w1986 handy? 

Post# 1030247 , Reply# 10   4/19/2019 at 04:52 by Launderess (Quiet Please, Thereīs a Lady on Stage)        

launderess's profile picture
Always thought those four shocks on Asko washers were easier than Miele. But then again never had to do the job, so that's me for you.

Love those old Asko washers. For the USA market at time they were only second to Miele in terms of design, features an quality. Then the brand was sold and things went rapidly down hill. Hear things have improved though with new owners.

More domestic front loaders should take a page from Asko and ditch that door boot.

Post# 1030248 , Reply# 11   4/19/2019 at 05:05 by Launderess (Quiet Please, Thereīs a Lady on Stage)        
Swapping Shocks on older Miele washers

launderess's profile picture
As you can see from video right side is fairly simple affair due to near clear access. Left is another matter. Some will take out the pump in order to get more leverage/better access.

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