Thread Number: 79441
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Maytag a608 transmission? |
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Post# 1033554 , Reply# 1   5/24/2019 at 18:59 (1,770 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)   |   | |
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Welcome to the forum! A little more diagnosis, and you should know what you are dealing with. Can you be more specific with this statement: “It got to the final drain and spin cycle and went "WRRRRrrrrrrrr...." and did nothing.” Specifically, was the sound a squeal? Did it sound labored, like it was working hard? Or did it sound like the motor was just running free with no load? When it’s making the noise and you lift the lid quickly, is the tub turning at all, or is it stationary? Does it still agitate fine in wash, just not drain? Don’t worry too much about the transmission or pump availability yet, they might not be what you need! |
Post# 1033564 , Reply# 2   5/24/2019 at 20:30 (1,770 days old) by pdub (Portland, Oregon)   |   | |
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Not sure if you were running it like I see in the picture but Maytag's do not like to be plugged into extension cords. They draw a lot of power when going into spin so need to be plugged directly into an outlet.
First lift up the machine and see if both belts are still on their pulley's. If so, what happens when you start the machine? Does it fill? After fill does it agitate? Is there a hot rubber smell if machine is running? Is the problem only in spin? If no power at all when turning on you might check to see if you've tripped a circuit breaker. These are just starters on troubleshooting. Good Luck |
Post# 1033586 , Reply# 3   5/25/2019 at 05:55 (1,769 days old) by Combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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As Patrick mentioned above may tags don’t like any voltage drop at spin start. It’s a crude system the way that use the belt slipping to try to let the motor start at the beginning of spin. They always had problems with this design either not slipping enough going into spin or slipping too much during agitation, it should’ve had an idler pulley or a pivoting motor.
If you continue to have trouble with it you can add a start capacitor which helps a great deal. John |
Post# 1033613 , Reply# 4   5/25/2019 at 19:11 (1,769 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)   |   | |
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Post# 1033633 , Reply# 5   5/25/2019 at 23:07 (1,769 days old) by good-shepherd (New Jersey)   |   | |
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Common issue for Maytags to leak some oil from the lower o-ring seal, but they can run a long time like that. The tub stem seal or bearing will often fail long before the transmission. |
Post# 1033771 , Reply# 7   5/27/2019 at 22:54 (1,767 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)   |   | |
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Post# 1033838 , Reply# 8   5/28/2019 at 21:05 (1,766 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)   |   | |
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Post# 1033961 , Reply# 9   5/30/2019 at 12:00 (1,764 days old) by imaguitargod (Willits, CA)   |   | |
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Sorry for the late reply, got busy with the newborn. I'll check the belts and spin cycle this weekend and report back! |
Post# 1035000 , Reply# 11   6/10/2019 at 15:43 (1,753 days old) by good-shepherd (New Jersey)   |   | |
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Thats about an average amount of oil sling for what looks to be a high mileage washer and unrelated to the other issue. On the plus side, no worries about the base plate rusting. Just clean it up with some degreaser. |
Post# 1035001 , Reply# 12   6/10/2019 at 16:20 (1,753 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Just to say ... the "Knits" cycle is just a starting point for shorter wash time (4 mins) in the Permanent Press cycle. There's otherwise no difference in the machine functions during the PP cycle vs. starting at 8 mins or any other labeled time on it. Likewise the "Delicate" designation is just a shorter wash time (4, 3, or 2 mins) in the Regular cycle. The bracketed areas on the Regular cycle are (smaller) the spray rinse during the first spin (after wash) and (larger) the agitated rinse period. Has the machine filled with water for the rinse at that point? The timer won't move further until it fills to the selected water level. |
Post# 1035009 , Reply# 14   6/10/2019 at 17:34 (1,753 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)   |   | |
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Post# 1035015 , Reply# 15   6/10/2019 at 18:32 (1,753 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Post# 1035172 , Reply# 16   6/12/2019 at 15:13 (1,751 days old) by imaguitargod (Willits, CA)   |   | |
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Ok, looks like I've got to hook it back up to water and run another test wash. |
Post# 1037873 , Reply# 18   7/11/2019 at 12:53 (1,722 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)   |   | |
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Ok, that's the motor's overload protection kicking in. One possibility is that a piece of clothing is stuck between the inner and outer tubs, preventing the inner tub from being able to turn freely. I had a similar issue with my A209 - here is my thread about it. Jump ahead to reply #21 for my diagnosis and remedy: www.automaticwasher.org/c... |
Post# 1037889 , Reply# 19   7/11/2019 at 15:36 (1,722 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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The transmission internal gearing and function does not come into play for spin. As stated above, something is putting an excessive load on the motor during spin ... either a stray piece of clothing gone overboard and binding the basket from turning freely, a problem with the brake, worn/seizing tub/spin bearing, motor carriage not moving freely, and it can also be caused by running the machine on an extension cord of too-small capacity to provide the required current draw. |