Thread Number: 79449
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Picked up my first old Maytag wringer washer! |
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Post# 1033661 , Reply# 2   5/26/2019 at 10:29 (1,790 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)   |   | |
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Hello Martin. That seems to be a fantastic deal for 40 bucks! Less than I've paid for any of mine.
In case you're not aware of my restoration projects - I've completed five restorations of these old Maytag wringer washers. Hopefully my videos on YouTube can be of some help to you! CLICK HERE TO GO TO bradross's LINK
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Post# 1033698 , Reply# 4   5/26/2019 at 21:28 (1,790 days old) by viper771 (Ohio)   |   | |
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Meant to put Brad Ross lol sorry about that :) |
Post# 1033699 , Reply# 5   5/26/2019 at 21:50 (1,790 days old) by viper771 (Ohio)   |   | |
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I finally found the serial number under the paint. Looks like 613141E |
Post# 1033702 , Reply# 6   5/26/2019 at 22:41 (1,790 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)   |   | |
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Hello again, Martin,
According to my manual, E-series serial numbers 602700-617459 were produced in February 1935. Now for parts --- 1). The pins for the bearing hangers (yes, that's what they're called!) had small c-shaped clips. Later models that year, such as my 30WP, had shorter pins with no clips. Some other models had cotter pins. 2). The plug is called the "End Thrust Bearing". The set screw keeps it in place. Unless it was badly damaged and leaking, I wouldn't worry about it. I've never changed one in any of my restorations. However, I do have one (NOS) if you need. 3). On/Off plate. It's amazing how well some of these buff up with a polishing wheel. However, they do show up on ebay from time-to-time. Or maybe Jeff has one. 4). Rubber lid bumpers. Definitely you need to fabricate those. I used Permatex silicone.f Just squeezed it in the holes about 1/4" thick, and then trimmed it down flat with a sharp knife, to about 1/8" thick. Also, there is a lid bumper on the edge of the washtub rim. That is also necessary, in order to prevent scratching the paint off the lid when it's open. 5). Finally the motor --- strange that yours has a G.E. Those were original to the Model 90, which makes me think some previous owner changed it out. Models A, 30 and 32 had Maytag-branded motors made by Delco (photo attached.) ........ Always eager to share my experience with another on their first endeavor! Don't hesitate to ask LOTS of questions! Feel free to email me also, although it's nice to continue the thread for those interested (or do both!)
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Post# 1033704 , Reply# 8   5/26/2019 at 23:04 (1,790 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)   |   | |
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The gasket between the tub and power unit can be made Karropak paper gasket by Felpro. The gasket for the power unit halves can be made from 3/32" cork gasket sheeting from Felpro. If you do get into opening up the power unit and changing the grease, be mindful of a couple of things:
- thickness of the gasket is CRUCIAL. If too thin, it will cause the gears to bind and prevent the agitator shaft from moving. - there are about 6 spacer rings for holes in the gasket. These can be lost easily when opening up the power unit (speaking from experience!) By late 1935, these spacers were no longer used (as in my 30WP from November of that year.) A V-belt from the auto parts store will work fine. Regarding paint - Maytag used both enamel and lacquer through the years. I have the paint formula if you're interested. However, I just used Valspar "Leafy Rise" in a spray can (after first applying metal primer.) |
Post# 1033705 , Reply# 9   5/26/2019 at 23:16 (1,790 days old) by viper771 (Ohio)   |   | |
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A huge help! I figured gaskets could just be made. I'll be starting to strip the old paint off soon. That one you restored looks awesome! I didn't know the aluminum could polish up so nice . Where did you get the decals? |
Post# 1033706 , Reply# 10   5/26/2019 at 23:27 (1,790 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)   |   | |
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Check with Kevin Fisher in Ohio ... follow the link and go to the "Restoration Info" tab on the left side. The authentic decal for the front of the tub is no longer available (although it has showed up on ebay). I was able to get one for my first Model 30 restoration, but subsequent ones I've had to use an alternate.
MAYTAG DECALS: Click Here For Printable Colored Decal List for Washers and Engines THEN ORDER FROM: Kevin Fisher P.O. Box 25 Bluffton Ohio, 45817 419-358-0910 decalman108@wcoil.com CLICK HERE TO GO TO bradross's LINK |
Post# 1033835 , Reply# 11   5/28/2019 at 20:28 (1,788 days old) by jeb (Mansfield Ohiio)   |   | |
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Martin I hope you made it through the storms alright. I do have a plate and lid and maybe wringer. I could bring the donor machines to you if need be. I have a couple you could harvest parts from (I'm trying to thin the herd). Jeff |
Post# 1033879 , Reply# 12   5/29/2019 at 15:39 (1,787 days old) by christfr (st louis mo)   |   | |
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follow dr brad he is a master with these machines he gave me inspiration to try one too. they are so cool youll love it
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Post# 1033957 , Reply# 14   5/30/2019 at 10:54 (1,786 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)   |   | |
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Hey Martin...nice to get an update. First off, good to hear you were not adversely impacted by the wild weather.
Second - wow, again! Another bargain found! Sometimes I think you guys in the mid-west are lucky to have so many of the old machines still available in close proximity. As a note - the lint strainer under the agitator was specifically for pump model 30WP. However, having said that, I got one with my first Model 30. Your latest acquisition is from the production run of September 1934 (D-serial numbers 600000-608819). Looking forward to seeing your progress! |
Post# 1033963 , Reply# 15   5/30/2019 at 12:46 (1,786 days old) by viper771 (Ohio)   |   | |
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Is that the original decal on the front? It seems like the only time I've seen the Maytag logo look like that. |
Post# 1033982 , Reply# 16   5/30/2019 at 16:57 (1,786 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)   |   | |
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