Thread Number: 79449  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Picked up my first old Maytag wringer washer!
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Post# 1033644   5/26/2019 at 05:13 by viper771 (Ohio)        

I wanted to see if you guys can help me date this thing. It's newer than the other wringer washer I tried to get ( the one that was sold from under me) but it was 4 mins away, 40 bucks, and works ( haven't tried yet to confirm). I'll need to weld a crack on the lid, and a corrosion hole in agitator but she's not in too bad of shape. I'll need to find the metal end of the drain hose that hooks to tub and the plug on the wringer gear box will need replaced sometime due to one of the ears broke off... And I think the pins on the wringer are missing c clips or something that keeps the pins in place. Any info would be great. It was painted silver at some point but I can see evidence of some decals. Be fun to fix up!! I'd like to put in a proper power cord and get rid of the orange extension cord that was used as well lol Thanks in advance for any help!

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Post# 1033655 , Reply# 1   5/26/2019 at 09:02 by jeb (Mansfield Ohiio)        
Maytag wringer parts

I might have some of what you need, I am not sure by your description, could you post pics? I have a lid and agitator for sure and maybe a parts donor machine. May not be the exact model but most parts for these were interchangeable. Maytag used the same drain hose for decades so finding one won't be hard. Where in Ohio are you? Jeff

Post# 1033661 , Reply# 2   5/26/2019 at 10:29 by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)        
Perhaps my restoration videos will be of some help...

bradross's profile picture
Hello Martin. That seems to be a fantastic deal for 40 bucks! Less than I've paid for any of mine.

In case you're not aware of my restoration projects - I've completed five restorations of these old Maytag wringer washers. Hopefully my videos on YouTube can be of some help to you!



CLICK HERE TO GO TO bradross's LINK


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Post# 1033697 , Reply# 3   5/26/2019 at 21:26 by viper771 (Ohio)        
Thanks!!

Hey Jeff I am down by Dayton. Not super far from Mansfield really. I put up picts of where I think I'm missing clips on the pins that hold top of wringer on and the plug that has a broken ear on it where the gearbox is for wringer. Do you have an on/off plate that isn't chewed up? Mines been kinda bashed a little. Also, does the lid have 2 rubber bumpers toward the edge? I don't think my drain is missing anything other than a new hose and metal hook end.

Bradboss I will definitely check out your vids. Is mine a 1935 as well? I'll need to find a belt sometime since mine feels pretty spongy. I appreciate all the help! I'd love to restore it. Did the electric motor kind all have ge motors?


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Post# 1033698 , Reply# 4   5/26/2019 at 21:28 by viper771 (Ohio)        
Brad

Meant to put Brad Ross lol sorry about that :)

Post# 1033699 , Reply# 5   5/26/2019 at 21:50 by viper771 (Ohio)        
Serial number

I finally found the serial number under the paint. Looks like 613141E

Post# 1033702 , Reply# 6   5/26/2019 at 22:41 by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)        
Firstly - the serial number and date of manufacture...

bradross's profile picture
Hello again, Martin,

According to my manual, E-series serial numbers 602700-617459 were produced in February 1935.

Now for parts ---

1). The pins for the bearing hangers (yes, that's what they're called!) had small c-shaped clips. Later models that year, such as my 30WP, had shorter pins with no clips. Some other models had cotter pins.

2). The plug is called the "End Thrust Bearing". The set screw keeps it in place. Unless it was badly damaged and leaking, I wouldn't worry about it. I've never changed one in any of my restorations. However, I do have one (NOS) if you need.

3). On/Off plate. It's amazing how well some of these buff up with a polishing wheel. However, they do show up on ebay from time-to-time. Or maybe Jeff has one.

4). Rubber lid bumpers. Definitely you need to fabricate those. I used Permatex silicone.f Just squeezed it in the holes about 1/4" thick, and then trimmed it down flat with a sharp knife, to about 1/8" thick.

Also, there is a lid bumper on the edge of the washtub rim. That is also necessary, in order to prevent scratching the paint off the lid when it's open.

5). Finally the motor --- strange that yours has a G.E. Those were original to the Model 90, which makes me think some previous owner changed it out. Models A, 30 and 32 had Maytag-branded motors made by Delco (photo attached.)

........

Always eager to share my experience with another on their first endeavor! Don't hesitate to ask LOTS of questions! Feel free to email me also, although it's nice to continue the thread for those interested (or do both!)


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Post# 1033703 , Reply# 7   5/26/2019 at 22:53 by viper771 (Ohio)        
Thanks!!

I have a feeling the old motor gave out as well. Looking at the bottom of tub I see evidence of the screws being taken out before ( with too small of a screw driver). With all the grease all over I wonder if a seal failed and flooded the gearbox. As for seals do you make your own out of gasket material or use peramatex alone? Can you just find a new belt at an auto parts place? I suspect there should be something around close to it. I'm sure I'll have a lot of questions. This is a bit different than my late 40s easy wringer washer. I do have the other lid bumper in place. Those c clips should be easy to find..I used them on my old cars as well. I suspect they are similar. Maybe I can find an original motor somewhere. I'll keep that in mind about the bearing cap. Is the paint baked enamel or just automotive paint? I appreciate all the help!! I'll be binge watching your videos lol I just got into old fridges, electric stoves, soda machines and freezers too. I have about ...20 now.. also old tractors and cars. I like saving the old stuff :)

Post# 1033704 , Reply# 8   5/26/2019 at 23:04 by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)        

bradross's profile picture
The gasket between the tub and power unit can be made Karropak paper gasket by Felpro. The gasket for the power unit halves can be made from 3/32" cork gasket sheeting from Felpro. If you do get into opening up the power unit and changing the grease, be mindful of a couple of things:
- thickness of the gasket is CRUCIAL. If too thin, it will cause the gears to bind and prevent the agitator shaft from moving.
- there are about 6 spacer rings for holes in the gasket. These can be lost easily when opening up the power unit (speaking from experience!) By late 1935, these spacers were no longer used (as in my 30WP from November of that year.)

A V-belt from the auto parts store will work fine.

Regarding paint - Maytag used both enamel and lacquer through the years. I have the paint formula if you're interested. However, I just used Valspar "Leafy Rise" in a spray can (after first applying metal primer.)


Post# 1033705 , Reply# 9   5/26/2019 at 23:16 by viper771 (Ohio)        
Awesome

A huge help! I figured gaskets could just be made. I'll be starting to strip the old paint off soon. That one you restored looks awesome! I didn't know the aluminum could polish up so nice . Where did you get the decals?

Post# 1033706 , Reply# 10   5/26/2019 at 23:27 by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)        
Decals...

bradross's profile picture
Check with Kevin Fisher in Ohio ... follow the link and go to the "Restoration Info" tab on the left side. The authentic decal for the front of the tub is no longer available (although it has showed up on ebay). I was able to get one for my first Model 30 restoration, but subsequent ones I've had to use an alternate.

MAYTAG DECALS:
Click Here For Printable Colored Decal List for Washers and Engines
THEN ORDER FROM:
Kevin Fisher
P.O. Box 25
Bluffton Ohio, 45817
419-358-0910
decalman108@wcoil.com


CLICK HERE TO GO TO bradross's LINK


Post# 1033835 , Reply# 11   5/28/2019 at 20:28 by jeb (Mansfield Ohiio)        

Martin I hope you made it through the storms alright. I do have a plate and lid and maybe wringer. I could bring the donor machines to you if need be. I have a couple you could harvest parts from (I'm trying to thin the herd). Jeff

Post# 1033879 , Reply# 12   5/29/2019 at 15:39 by christfr (st louis mo)        

christfr's profile picture
follow dr brad he is a master with these machines he gave me inspiration to try one too. they are so cool youll love it

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Post# 1033908 , Reply# 13   5/29/2019 at 23:10 by viper771 (Ohio)        
Tornadoes and good news

Hey Jeff and everyone. Yep the tornado was pretty close..maybe 5 miles away. There were 2 in my area but only half a big 100 yr old maple tree got any damage thankfully.

The good news is I found another model 30 in Muncie Indiana for 40 bucks and took a day trip with the wife. I think it's older than my other one according to the serial number ( see picts). It is only missing the lint strainer? that goes under the agitator. Is that what the front decal should look like? Also the pins for the ringer have the cotter pins instead of c clips ( that were missing on the other one). Even the end thrust bearing cap is ok. Original motor and drain hose. Be fun to restore them.

Do you have the parts I need Jeff? Shoot me an email and let's see what you have available.

Thanks for all the help everyone!!


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Post# 1033957 , Reply# 14   5/30/2019 at 10:54 by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)        
Great find!

bradross's profile picture
Hey Martin...nice to get an update. First off, good to hear you were not adversely impacted by the wild weather.

Second - wow, again! Another bargain found! Sometimes I think you guys in the mid-west are lucky to have so many of the old machines still available in close proximity.

As a note - the lint strainer under the agitator was specifically for pump model 30WP. However, having said that, I got one with my first Model 30.

Your latest acquisition is from the production run of September 1934 (D-serial numbers 600000-608819).

Looking forward to seeing your progress!


Post# 1033963 , Reply# 15   5/30/2019 at 12:46 by viper771 (Ohio)        
Decal

Is that the original decal on the front? It seems like the only time I've seen the Maytag logo look like that.

Post# 1033982 , Reply# 16   5/30/2019 at 16:57 by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)        
Original, yes...

bradross's profile picture
that oval decal is the real thing. If you refer to Kevin Fisher's info on the Maytag Collectors Club website, you can see which decals were original to various years and models.

Post# 1033984 , Reply# 17   5/30/2019 at 17:09 by viper771 (Ohio)        
Ok cool

Ok awesome!! I've been watching your videos Brad. Lots of good info!




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