Thread Number: 79702
/ Tag: Ranges, Stoves, Ovens
Better Because it's Gas, Best Because it's a Caloric! Part One |
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Post# 1035900   6/21/2019 at 07:00 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Another thread that is being rebuilt due almost to complete image loss and for the archives. This one will take some time to reconstitute due to it's size. Sadly, most of the comments will be lost since it would be far too time consuming to repost each and every one. When the rebuilding is complete, I will post the latest updates of the Ultramatic.
Many thanks to John, Martin, Mark, Steve, Bill and everyone else for their help, advice and encouragement on this project.
So let's take a step back in time shall we?
This post was last edited 06/21/2019 at 08:14 |
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Post# 1035902 , Reply# 1   6/21/2019 at 07:14 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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My 1964 Caloric Ultramatic Heritage Series has finally arrived to it's new home in Brooklyn. 36 inches of good 'ole American iron. All porcelain inside and out. With rotisserie, Ultra-Ray broiler, 2nd broiler, Automatic Cooking Control, Fowl and Roast Selector, meat probe, griddle, 5th burner, two automatic burners, clock/timer, panel light/oven light, Oven Ready light, Automatic Cooking Completed light.
After a quick wipe down.
The control panel reminds me of the Jupiter 2's flight deck from Lost In Space. The fluorescent panel light works, but flickers badly.
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Post# 1035904 , Reply# 2   6/21/2019 at 07:40 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035908 , Reply# 3   6/21/2019 at 08:02 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035910 , Reply# 4   6/21/2019 at 08:25 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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1962 Caloric Ultramatic
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Post# 1035911 , Reply# 5   6/21/2019 at 08:27 (1,742 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)   |   | |
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Louis, are the porcelain bowls separate pieces from the top and removable for cleaning, like the chrome bowls? |
Post# 1035912 , Reply# 6   6/21/2019 at 08:28 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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1962 Caloric Ultramatic
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Post# 1035913 , Reply# 7   6/21/2019 at 08:30 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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1962 Caloric Ultramatic |
Post# 1035914 , Reply# 8   6/21/2019 at 08:34 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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1962 Caloric Ultramatic
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Post# 1035915 , Reply# 9   6/21/2019 at 08:36 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035916 , Reply# 10   6/21/2019 at 08:53 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035918 , Reply# 11   6/21/2019 at 09:00 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035919 , Reply# 12   6/21/2019 at 09:02 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035920 , Reply# 13   6/21/2019 at 09:08 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035921 , Reply# 14   6/21/2019 at 09:12 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035928 , Reply# 15   6/21/2019 at 09:41 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035931 , Reply# 16   6/21/2019 at 09:47 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035932 , Reply# 17   6/21/2019 at 09:51 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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SOB screws holding the grill/vent to the cook top are proving to be hell to remove. Got one off, two snapped where the nut was. and the last the head is getting stripped. Yes, they were soaked overnight with WD-40, got another spray a few moments before I attempted to remove them. I can't chisel them off because of the porcelain. So I'm gonna' have to drill them out. I really need to get a Dremel.
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Post# 1035933 , Reply# 18   6/21/2019 at 09:53 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035934 , Reply# 19   6/21/2019 at 09:56 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035935 , Reply# 20   6/21/2019 at 10:01 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035936 , Reply# 21   6/21/2019 at 10:03 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035937 , Reply# 22   6/21/2019 at 10:15 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035938 , Reply# 23   6/21/2019 at 10:19 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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"1) Remove the rotor from the coil assembly. You can probably push it out, or loosen the screws on either side of the coil to help free it.
2) Place (balance) the rotor, pinion gear side up, on top of a light bulb (60 to 100W) and try to get the rotor as level as possible.
3) Turn on the light and let the rotor cook for at least 30 minutes. When time is up, shut off the lamp, leave rotor in place, and apply a drop or two of oil onto the pinion gear. You should see it fill the small well around the gear's base, and then slowly (or sometimes quickly) be absorbed into the rotor case. Repeat this until you've added 15 - 20 drops of oil. If it stops drawing it in, heat the rotor up again and then pick up where you left off.
4) Install the rotor back into the coil assembly, connect to power, being careful not to disturb the soldered connections on the coil. Check gear for rotation. Information on the rotor case should indicate the rotor runs at 3.6 RPM. I sort of eyeball it and check against a clock with a sweep second hand.
If the rotor is noisy, you may want to heat it up once more and add maybe 5 or 10 more drops of oil. Less is more. Too much oil and it will bog down the mechanism inside the rotor and cause it to run too slow. Noisy rotors that have been revived can sometimes quiet down once they're back in use for a while too. "
This post was last edited 06/21/2019 at 12:27 |
Post# 1035939 , Reply# 24   6/21/2019 at 10:22 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035940 , Reply# 25   6/21/2019 at 10:23 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035942 , Reply# 26   6/21/2019 at 10:30 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035943 , Reply# 27   6/21/2019 at 10:37 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035944 , Reply# 28   6/21/2019 at 10:39 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035946 , Reply# 29   6/21/2019 at 10:42 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035947 , Reply# 30   6/21/2019 at 10:43 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035948 , Reply# 31   6/21/2019 at 10:45 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Ralph...
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Post# 1035949 , Reply# 32   6/21/2019 at 10:46 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Bill, I'm pretty sure the coil and rotor assembly for an S type rotor isn't an exact match for an H type. The S rotor is larger at the end that fits into the coil and smaller on the side with the pinion gear, so for sure the S type coil won't accommodate an H rotor and vice-versa. Additionally, due to the size difference in the rotors, it may not be possible to do a complete change-out of an H type coil assembly for an S type.
Other factors could be the pinion gear RPM and the size and number of cogs on the pinion gear itself.
The field coil alone could probably work, but since it's riveted in place on your coil assembly, it can't be removed.
FYI, the numbers stamped on the field coil wrapper indicate the number of windings X 1,000 (I think). The fact that yours has 68K and Louie's has 60K wouldn't be an issue. Louie's might get slightly warmer during operation, though. This gives you a sense for just how thin the winding wires are. |
Post# 1035951 , Reply# 33   6/21/2019 at 10:47 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Plan B...
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Post# 1035954 , Reply# 34   6/21/2019 at 10:50 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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The rotor assembly is a H3 3.6RPM and it fits in |
Post# 1035955 , Reply# 35   6/21/2019 at 10:51 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035956 , Reply# 36   6/21/2019 at 10:52 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035957 , Reply# 37   6/21/2019 at 10:52 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035958 , Reply# 38   6/21/2019 at 10:58 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035959 , Reply# 39   6/21/2019 at 10:59 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035960 , Reply# 40   6/21/2019 at 11:29 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035961 , Reply# 41   6/21/2019 at 11:35 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035962 , Reply# 42   6/21/2019 at 11:44 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035963 , Reply# 43   6/21/2019 at 11:45 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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These have little neon bulbs in them and a power dropping resistor in them, they are very long lived only draw about 1/3 of a watt and you do replace the whole thing when it fails. I would use the originals if they work, these lights are probably the last things you need to worry about when it comes to keeping this range functioning. |
Post# 1035964 , Reply# 44   6/21/2019 at 11:46 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035965 , Reply# 45   6/21/2019 at 11:54 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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I painted the lettering and added a stripe to the control panel. The stripe and the red, white and blue hexagons were featured on some Ultramatics' from 1962. I'm not sure if it was available for '63 or '64. Never seen a '64 with them. So I decided to add them. The stripe is easy enough. I did a test painting the white hexagon with a paint pen. I'm not too sure what was used, paint, contact paper or plastic. The red and white colors are easy to find, but the turquoise not so easy. It has to be a very pale hue, not unlike the color of the panel light knob.
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Post# 1035967 , Reply# 46   6/21/2019 at 12:04 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035968 , Reply# 47   6/21/2019 at 12:13 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035991 , Reply# 48   6/21/2019 at 17:25 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035993 , Reply# 49   6/21/2019 at 17:54 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035994 , Reply# 50   6/21/2019 at 18:02 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035995 , Reply# 51   6/21/2019 at 18:06 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035996 , Reply# 52   6/21/2019 at 18:28 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035997 , Reply# 53   6/21/2019 at 18:33 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035999 , Reply# 54   6/21/2019 at 18:48 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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I had to remove the Ultra-Ray broiler. The mounting bracket (top center) for the pilot light got bent during transit from Beltsville. So I had to straighten it out.
The fine mesh of the Ultra-Ray is extremely fragile. Just a light touch from my finger and it started to crumble (lower right). I hope this doesn't effect it's performance.
Zinc oven floor reinstalled after cleaning.
Rotisserie rack.
Mystery plate in Ultra-ray oven. Perhaps for heater option?
Conventional broiler all done.
Oven done.
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Post# 1036002 , Reply# 55   6/21/2019 at 19:04 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036003 , Reply# 56   6/21/2019 at 19:05 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036004 , Reply# 57   6/21/2019 at 19:11 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036006 , Reply# 58   6/21/2019 at 19:49 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036008 , Reply# 59   6/21/2019 at 20:02 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036009 , Reply# 60   6/21/2019 at 20:11 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036010 , Reply# 61   6/21/2019 at 20:13 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036011 , Reply# 62   6/21/2019 at 20:15 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036012 , Reply# 63   6/21/2019 at 20:18 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Hi Everyone, I am thrilled to see you getting this range up and working, a few points
This range DOES NOT HAVE a thermocouple, almost no home gas ranges used TCs after about 1961. The part shown in reply #115 is not used any where on this [ or any home gas range after about 1961 ] Range.
Hans is correct, you need a complete oven safety valve. [ note these oven safety valves contain mercury, dispose of the old one at a facility that recycles mercury ]
All the top burner pilots should be turned down as low as possible to not only save gas but to also reduce the extensive damage that the combustion byproducts from these small inefficient burning flames will do to the underside of the range top and everything else under the cook-top. I would differently consider keeping the center pilot turned off like our former customer did.
Can't wait to see some of the great cooking that this range is going to do, the Ultra-Ray broiler rotisserie would be my favorite feature for sure.
John L. |
Post# 1036013 , Reply# 64   6/21/2019 at 20:20 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Thanks for the info John. Well this seems it's going to be a costly repair. But it's the price for being MCM. All the pilots are quite tiny. I figure my carbon footprint is far smaller than most, so they're gonna stay lit. Besides, what's the purpose of being modern if you have to light a burner with a match? |
Post# 1036015 , Reply# 65   6/21/2019 at 20:28 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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On these burners you set the flame size then turn the dial back to the temperature you want to maintain. The flame should go on and off completely as the temperature is reached. There is a standby pilot next to the burner that comes on when you start the burner that will relight the burner when it comes on again.
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Post# 1036036 , Reply# 66   6/22/2019 at 07:32 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Coloric Range--Proper Oven Operation
Hi Louie, and a BIG Happy New Year to You, it is neat to see you getting this cool old range restored after it sat in my shop all those years.
The oven pilot looks fine when it comes on and it is heating the oven safety valves properly, so as discussed before you very likely need a need oven safety valve [ the one other possibly is the oven thromostat is not opening the main gas flow to the oven safety valve when you first turn the oven on, this can be tested by loosening the big gas line coming into the SV and then briefly turn on the oven thromostat and you should have a strong flow of gas, blow out the oven pilot while doing this ].
The other problem you seem to be having is the pre-heat pilot flame should stay on at any thermostat setting until the oven temperature is up to that setting and then it turns off the larger pilet pre-heat gas flow then the red hot SV bulb cools and shuts off the main gas burner till more heat is needed. So you have a thromostat problem as well, it may not be serious but at the least it needs to be dissembled and cleaned or rebuilt. |
Post# 1036037 , Reply# 67   6/22/2019 at 07:33 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036038 , Reply# 68   6/22/2019 at 07:40 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036039 , Reply# 69   6/22/2019 at 07:42 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036040 , Reply# 70   6/22/2019 at 07:55 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036041 , Reply# 71   6/22/2019 at 07:58 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036042 , Reply# 72   6/22/2019 at 07:59 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Oven safety valve,
Is the part that the big gas line connects to before the gas goes into the cast iron burner, it also has a tiny flexible SS line that goes up to the pilot assembly and is heated by the enlarged pilot flame that occurs when you turn the oven on to open and allow gas to flow to the main burner. |
Post# 1036043 , Reply# 73   6/22/2019 at 08:04 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036044 , Reply# 74   6/22/2019 at 08:05 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036045 , Reply# 75   6/22/2019 at 08:06 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036047 , Reply# 76   6/22/2019 at 08:11 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036049 , Reply# 77   6/22/2019 at 08:19 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036052 , Reply# 78   6/22/2019 at 08:24 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036053 , Reply# 79   6/22/2019 at 08:26 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036054 , Reply# 80   6/22/2019 at 08:28 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036055 , Reply# 81   6/22/2019 at 08:36 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036056 , Reply# 82   6/22/2019 at 08:37 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036057 , Reply# 83   6/22/2019 at 08:38 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036058 , Reply# 84   6/22/2019 at 08:39 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036059 , Reply# 85   6/22/2019 at 08:41 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036060 , Reply# 86   6/22/2019 at 08:42 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036061 , Reply# 87   6/22/2019 at 08:48 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036062 , Reply# 88   6/22/2019 at 08:53 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036063 , Reply# 89   6/22/2019 at 08:56 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036064 , Reply# 90   6/22/2019 at 08:57 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036065 , Reply# 91   6/22/2019 at 09:00 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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These came about around 1961 to compete with electric ovens that had no trouble maintaining a low temperature to keep food warm etc. |
Post# 1036066 , Reply# 92   6/22/2019 at 09:01 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036067 , Reply# 93   6/22/2019 at 09:03 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036068 , Reply# 94   6/22/2019 at 09:05 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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The oven light switch is proving to be a PIA to find. Went to half a dozen places today, and no dice. They all have the same one with a short, thick shank. Online is not much better.
On a brighter note, I may have found a source for the rotisserie spit rod. It would be new, but damn close to the original. Need to do a few measurements to be sure. |
Post# 1036069 , Reply# 95   6/22/2019 at 09:08 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036070 , Reply# 96   6/22/2019 at 09:10 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036072 , Reply# 97   6/22/2019 at 09:11 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036073 , Reply# 98   6/22/2019 at 09:12 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036074 , Reply# 99   6/22/2019 at 09:15 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1036076 , Reply# 100   6/22/2019 at 09:23 (1,741 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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