Thread Number: 79703
/ Tag: Classified Ad Finds
Turquoise Maytag Set / $200 / San Diego |
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Post# 1035906   6/21/2019 at 07:46 (1,742 days old) by stricklybojack (South Hams Devon UK)   |   | |
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Not every day I see something like this... CLICK HERE TO GO TO stricklybojack's LINK
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Post# 1035909 , Reply# 1   6/21/2019 at 08:16 (1,742 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1035922 , Reply# 2   6/21/2019 at 09:15 (1,742 days old) by turquoisedude (.)   |   | |
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Post# 1035945 , Reply# 3   6/21/2019 at 10:41 (1,742 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 1035952 , Reply# 4   6/21/2019 at 10:48 (1,742 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 1035972 , Reply# 5   6/21/2019 at 12:42 (1,742 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806)   |   | |
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Post# 1036143 , Reply# 6   6/22/2019 at 20:31 (1,740 days old) by mrcoppertone (Los Angeles)   |   | |
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Holy smokes! I've been looking for a blue pair to put in my laundry room that has blue linoleum flooring. I also live in Los Angeles. Just seems like a big risk not knowing if they work and the door not closing. |
Post# 1036144 , Reply# 7   6/22/2019 at 20:49 (1,740 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)   |   | |
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The dryer handle can be replaced (link) but the set will likely need some moderate to intensive work to use as a daily driver.
I had a (700) set for about seven years, one of my all-time faves. CLICK HERE TO GO TO gansky1's LINK on eBay |
Post# 1036162 , Reply# 8   6/23/2019 at 07:03 (1,740 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)   |   | |
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I wouldn't let that bother me in the least. If I was close and wanted them, I'd make the deal. |
Post# 1036174 , Reply# 9   6/23/2019 at 09:57 (1,740 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)   |   | |
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Post# 1036190 , Reply# 11   6/23/2019 at 13:25 (1,740 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)   |   | |
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Post# 1036238 , Reply# 13   6/24/2019 at 02:08 (1,739 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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I hate to be *THAT* guy, but if you're unfamiliar with machines this old and aren't willing to learn and work on them yourself, then pass. Finding someone who would even begin to know how to work on that complex timer and electronic control unit of the 642C is going to be slim to none. The whole dryer needs to be torn down cleaned and lubricated before being put into regular service. The front seal is probably deteriorated and turned to dust by now, which is NLA. Timers for either unit are long gone and unavailable. The 3 coil water valve in the washer is almost impossible to come by now and most likely needs to be replaced, at minimal, rebuilt. Expect everything that holds water and oil to leak in the near future on that washer. The washer may still even have a pot metal pump in it, which definitely needs to be replaced before a drop of water enters the tub. The hoses connected to the pump are petrified by now.
I've done several complete in depth restorations on Maytags older than these but I spent many years gathering service manuals, spent endless hours reading them, a decade of collecting parts from ebay and buying old stock parts from Maytag service centers, and cut my teeth on some lower end units and junky high end units of this era before restoring nicer ones. |
Post# 1036277 , Reply# 15   6/24/2019 at 14:43 (1,739 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)   |   | |
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Post# 1036280 , Reply# 16   6/24/2019 at 15:19 (1,739 days old) by mrcoppertone (Los Angeles)   |   | |
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Thanks for the heads up. That should be easy enough. My electric panel is in the same room and there's a crawl space underneath. |
Post# 1036421 , Reply# 17   6/26/2019 at 09:31 (1,737 days old) by stricklybojack (South Hams Devon UK)   |   | |
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Post# 1036427 , Reply# 18   6/26/2019 at 13:02 (1,737 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)   |   | |
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Did you get it? I'm curious to see them, if you need some help, I'm more than happy to help you. I'm a washing machine designer (but I never touched a vintage Maytag or even saw one running right in front of me) I'm in DTLA, Gage and Normandie. Obs. I have a broken leg... so I can't force too much until I recover and get rid of the boot I'm wearing. |
Post# 1036430 , Reply# 19   6/26/2019 at 13:22 (1,737 days old) by stricklybojack (South Hams Devon UK)   |   | |
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Post# 1036434 , Reply# 21   6/26/2019 at 15:28 (1,737 days old) by mrcoppertone (Los Angeles)   |   | |
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Also, I hope you have a speedy recovery! |
Post# 1036435 , Reply# 22   6/26/2019 at 15:30 (1,737 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)   |   | |
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Post# 1036438 , Reply# 23   6/26/2019 at 16:20 (1,737 days old) by Stricklybojack (South Hams Devon UK)   |   | |
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Post# 1036440 , Reply# 24   6/26/2019 at 16:34 (1,737 days old) by pulltostart (Mobile, AL)   |   | |
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Post# 1036445 , Reply# 25   6/26/2019 at 17:52 (1,736 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)   |   | |
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"I'll probably open them up and test them (without water) in my living room to see if it looks promising." Do NOT do that.... Rule number 1 with washers that old: Fill it with hot water (use buckets, tap hot, but as hot as possible) and let it sit for at least 1 hour before you think about plugging it. (and the living room isn't the best place to do that) |
Post# 1036455 , Reply# 26   6/26/2019 at 19:47 (1,736 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Again, I don't mean to come across as a Debbie Downer but I don't recommend using these as daily drivers even with a hardcore meticulous Qsd-Dan style restoration process on both units. I've been in a bunch of these machines and know what to expect from them thanks to that good ol' hard knox learning technique called experience. They will stab you in the back and fail as the worst possible time. I also don't recommend using these machines as your first prelude into Maytags. At minimum, find a post '65 washer to learn and make mistakes on before touching the A700. That washer is a different animal from '66+ and a simple slip up will turn it into a 200# paperweight.
Last year of the 642C dryer is 1961 and first year of the A700 is 1961. The chances of both units being 1961 are strong. Do the math, that's 58 years old. Here's some points to ponder before plugging in either machine, as well as my crystal ball future predictions from experience: Washer: Belts are probably original and toast. The motor carriage is probably gummed up, if not locked up, and motor carriage wheels disintegrated (or soon will be). This area needs to be addressed immediately. Damper pads are parched and badly need lubrication by now. Spinning out just one single load of laundry without lubricating them first has the strong potential of ripping the pads off of the base and gouging the damper. That style damper was discontinued in 1965 so good luck finding a non damaged damper today. Polylube is NOT used on these older pads, it's Maytag transmission oil. Use 80/90 gear lube if you don't have Maytag transmission oil on hand and expect your laundry room to reek of stinky @ss for at least a month. I replace all of these old style damper pads with the newer style pads (you'll need to trim one of the 3 pads for proper spacing) and polylube even if the old style look perfect. The newer style causes less friction, allowing tighter spring tensions without inducing vibrations. Lower o-ring in the transmission is probably toast, or soon will be, and will dump most of its oil on the floor and all over the bottom half of the base. Run it under these conditions and it'll lock up the lower half of the transmission. Most of the transmissions I've been in at this age are less than half full of oil. Whatever oil left has nearly turned into grease which will cause sluggish operation. The shaft in the upper housing relies on oil for lubrication during the spin cycle. Lack of oil or thick oil won't flow into the oil gallery of the upper trans housing during the spin cycle, causing the upper shaft to bind and destroy the upper sleeve bearings, then lock up. Expect every hose and seal to systemically fail due to age (stem and boot seal, tub bearing seal, cover to tub housing band seal, pump seal, water valve, water valve to injector hose, tub to pump hose, drain hose, air dome hose). Find a post 1979 sealed pump and install it. Those older pumps like to leak from the top seal, especially if the screws holding it are rusted (most of them are). Short term leaks here will rust out that corner of the base. Watch out for the bleach injection hoses, they won't leak right away but soon will. The original style bleach containers will crack by just looking at them wrong, if it isn't cracked already. Check all clamps, they rust out and lose tension, then cause leaks. A blown tub to pump hose, drain hose, or air dome hose will immediately turn your laundry room into the Niagara Falls. Been there, done that. Dryer: Belts are trash and probably have flat spots from sitting in one spot on the pulleys for decades. All sleeve bearings (including the ones in the motor) are bone dry. Running the dryer can cause immediate damage to these bearings, ESPECIALLY THE BLOWER WHEEL BEARINGS! The front seal is probably DOA. They like to fall off into the heating element which can cause a fire. The capacitors on the electronic control board are probably dried and dead. Strong chance the automatic moisture sensing options will not work and you'll be relying on the timed dry portion of the dial, if the timer itself isn't dead. Keep in mind this is only a handful of the many problems that can occur. Considered yourself warned. |
Post# 1036469 , Reply# 28   6/27/2019 at 05:02 (1,736 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)   |   | |
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Post# 1036494 , Reply# 29   6/27/2019 at 11:28 (1,736 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)   |   | |
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>> thomasortega wrote >> A good alternative is having "some" daily drivers, That's perhaps good general advice, but misses Dan's point. Dan is saying that anyone with machines of this age would be wise to do a complete teardown/rebuild on them ***BEFORE*** using them, to take care of the common age-related failure points BEFORE they fail and do irreparable damage to the machine (or your home) in the process. Using the machines infrequently does not eliminate this risk or the need for preventative maintenance! It's very good advice, and comes from experience. Make his post a checklist, and I'm actually surprised how many of them I've hit personally, and with machines a decade or more newer than these here. Some of these issues are faaaaar easier to remedy before they fail, and for such a nice pair of machines like this, it would be well worth your efforts to do so! >> thomasortega wrote >> But anyway, Always have a modern machine because you should NEVER jeopardize a vintage >> washer's life by washing those "impossible" loads like duvets or heavy loads of jeans. 100% disagree with this! |
Post# 1036509 , Reply# 31   6/27/2019 at 15:24 (1,736 days old) by turquoisedude (.)   |   | |
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If it helps, my 'daily driver' 65 turquoise Lady Kenmore washer and dryer at the house in St-Liboire (Quebec) run 2-3 loads per week. I wash very large comforters at the local coin-op laundry (we only have a couple of those, fortunately). Not to rain on your parade, but there is always the possibility of a breakdown of a vintage machine when it gets put back into regular service!
The Lady K washer needed bearings when I got it; I did a half-assed job of it and the machine quit on me two summers ago. It was no fun at all not having a working washer, but I had the 9 or so machines connected and working down at the other house in Ogden (also in Quebec). I ran into one issue after another with the Kenmore - wound having to replace the pump as well as the basket drive tube and it took me nearly 18 months to "get it right". And I've done some fairly intense work on the Whirlpool-built belt-drive machines before so I should have known better... |
Post# 1036541 , Reply# 33   6/27/2019 at 20:06 (1,735 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806)   |   | |
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Those Maytags will need work before they are used on a regular basis. My A606 washer worked when I got it, but I will have to look into the damper pads soon. The DG606 I converted to a DG306 needed a lot of work done to it before I even plugged it in or hooked it up to gas. The DG306 needed a new outer felt seal, and I installed a new inner felt seal s8nce my had a felt seal on it when I got it.
The Gas HOH dryers are different from the electric versions, and some will need painting to the drum pulley and rear panel if they are rusty from the constant burning pilot light, as well as piling the drum bearing and blower shaft, as well as greasing the slider and tensioner shaft. Another thing is if the pilot safety is shot, you will have to convert it to automatic ignition and switch the 18,000 btu orifice onto the new dual gas valve. If you don’t use your gas HOH dryer for a long time I’d suggest turn the pilot off, and light it on the days it will be used. My gas HOH dryer takes 75 minutes to dry a large load of towels. I will say it’s pretty fast with small loads though. |
Post# 1036548 , Reply# 34   6/27/2019 at 23:17 (1,735 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)   |   | |
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I can help you with the hoses. It's super easy and inexpensive. I have ALL my washers connected to a si gle washer hookup and draining in a tiny modern laundry sink that is the same as almost nothing. |
Post# 1081615 , Reply# 38   7/19/2020 at 13:09 (1,348 days old) by stricklybojack (South Hams Devon UK)   |   | |
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Post# 1082328 , Reply# 39   7/25/2020 at 09:59 (1,342 days old) by sarahperdue (Alabama)   |   | |
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