Thread Number: 79798
/ Tag: Wringer Washers
|[Down to Last]|
|Post# 1036979   7/2/2019 at 18:07 by JustJunque (Western MA)  || |
This Maytag wringer has been on our local Craigslist for a few days or so.
It looks a bit cruddy and rusty, but I know nothing about them, so I thought I'd see what y'all think.
I'm viewing it on mobile, and for some reason, it won't show me the contact information.
So I haven't inquired of the seller at all, to find out how long it's been since it was last used or anything.
Based solely on the two pictures; what can you tell me about it?
Approximate age? Are they a good machine? Would parts be available? Based on what you can see of its condition, does the price seem reasonable?
Likewise, based on what you can see of its condition, is it too cruddy/rusty?
As much as I'd love to bring home a maybe 1960s-1980s washer/dryer pair, I really don't have the room.
But, I know I could find room for a wringer, and I could probably even convince the wife not to kick me out of the house if one should happen to show up some day.
Thank you for anything you can offer to educate me on this machine.
CLICK HERE TO GO TO JustJunque's LINK on Westernmass Craigslist
|Post# 1036980 , Reply# 1   7/2/2019 at 18:36 by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)  || |
CL goes in and out of "Reply" button/links not working. It can be anything from your device to their security/anti-spam system. Had it happen for weeks on end (using a PC), then went away, then comes back....
As for the that J2L there are plenty of posts/threads on those Maytag wringer washers in archive.
Outside condition would be least of your worries (one in OP doesn't look that bad, have seen much worse), but state of tub, seals, gears, power ringer, pump, motor and other bits are of a bigger worry.
Without seeing inside of tub and or underneath hard to tell what sort of condition this machine is in. Is there the dreaded tell tale trail of oil down left rear leg? This can mean water is getting down into the transmission/gearbox.
Get a hold of seller and ask for clearer pictures of tub, wringer, and if possible underneath.
Parts? Yes, there are still plenty of spares out there for Maytag wringers include NOS. Myself and others have our stashes, and there are the Amish and several other Maytag service persons about as well.
|Post# 1036988 , Reply# 2   7/2/2019 at 19:59 by qsd-dan (West)  || |
It's a fully loaded J2LP made after 1965. There's a hook on the side to keep the drain hose upright and it's missing the goose neck connection but it may be inside the tub.
Personally, I buy 5 feet of 3/4" heater hose, hook it to the goose neck, and run it out on the ground. More convenient and less messy.
I have 10 Maytag wringers spanning from the mid 1920's to the 1970's and I find this model to be the most convenient to use. 18 gallon tub holds a good amount of laundry (largest of the Maytag wringer family) and the large removable top makes for easy loading/unloading. Porcelain interior allows one to use bleach, ammonia, and oxygen bleach without discoloration, unlike the aluminum E2L or older pre 1940's cast and aluminum models.
You'll be surprised how well these old wringers clean up with a bit of elbow grease (Before and after E2LP pictures below).
|Post# 1037020 , Reply# 3   7/3/2019 at 08:32 by e2l-arry (LAKEWOOD COLORADO)  || |
AND it's a pump model. For $40 bucks I'd go for it! It was made in the late 60's and probably hasn't been used much.Laundress is right about checking for oil down the left rear leg. I suspect it will be clean but even if it isn't I'd still go for it. It's not that bad or difficult a job to replace the gaskets and seals even if it has been leaking oil. Plenty of people on here, including me, have done the job. The J2L was just 1 step down from the top of the line E2L. Difference being the E2L has an aluminum tub. That made for additional insulation to help keep the water hot for longer. The E2L also had an attached/hinged lid. The mechanics and capacities on both machines are identical.
|Post# 1037044 , Reply# 4   7/3/2019 at 16:55 by JustJunque (Western MA)  || |
Thanks for the replies!
I'm really tempted, but I do want to find out more about its condition.
The seller stated that it's been in the family since new, and it's been stored for a long time.
|Post# 1037050 , Reply# 5   7/3/2019 at 17:34 by LowEfficiency (Iowa)  || |
>> I'm really tempted, but I do want to find out more about its condition.
Wait too much longer, and the choice will be made for you.
$40 is way cheap, and someone else is going to take advantage of your hesitation and snap it up.
People pay more than $40 for them in worse condition with missing parts just to use them as planters outside!
|Post# 1037053 , Reply# 6   7/3/2019 at 17:42 by JustJunque (Western MA)  || |
Okay. I'm convinced.
I'm going to contact the seller to set up a meeting.
If it turns out to be a piece of junk, I'll use it as a decoration.
Indoors though. I couldn't bring myself to leave it sitting outside.
|Post# 1037115 , Reply# 7   7/4/2019 at 11:01 by JustJunque (Western MA)  || |
Just a little update, for anyone who might be following this.
I've spoken with the seller.
The machine was purchased new by his parents, and he remembers his mom using it in the kitchen.
It sounds like he's now living in their old house, and it's just time to start getting rid of some of the old stuff that's just sitting around.
He's not sure, but it's possible that the last time it was used was in the 1970s.
He said the inside of the tub is clean.
I'm busy this afternoon, and have to work tomorrow.
So, unless someone beats me to it, I'm going to see it Saturday morning.
I didn't realize how much I wanted one until now that I'm this close!
I'm just curious.
Dan, (qsd-dan), and Larry said this machine is a J2LP.
How can you tell it's the version with the pump?
The label just says J2L.
Also, Dan and Larry... I really wish one of you lived near Western Mass!
If I'm able to bring it home, I could sure use someone with your knowledge of and experience with these machines!
I read in an old thread, that if you have to transport these laying down, it should be laying on its front.
Is that okay to do, or would I be better off to bribe a friend with a pickup truck into hauling it upright?
|Post# 1037119 , Reply# 8   7/4/2019 at 11:59 by ea56 (Cotati, Calif.)  || |
To my knowledge, if the model number doesn’t have a P at the end of it, there is no pump. Also, if it has a pump the switch to turn the pump off and on will be at the bottom right side of the tub, if there’s no switch, then there’s no pump.
BTW, if the machine was manufactured from I believe 1969 until the end of manufacture of these machines in the early 1980’s, the model number would also have an S at the end, to indicate it was a “safety”model with the foot pedal to activate the wringer.
My Mom bought a new E2LPS in 1969, and the dealer told us that this was the first year for the safety pedal. He said that most owners hated this feature and offered to deactivate it by removing the rubber tube underneath the washer and plug the hole with a stove bolt, which Mom elected to have done. So my guess is that the washer your interested was manufactured sometime between 1966 when Maytag changed from red to turquoise plastic trim and agitator and 1968.
My very first washing machine was a J2LP that I bought for $35.00 at the Salvation Army Thrift Store. It was a wonderful washing machine and I wish I still had it.
I hope that you manage to score this Maytag Wringer, I think you will really enjoy using it.
|Post# 1037121 , Reply# 9   7/4/2019 at 12:16 by e2l-arry (LAKEWOOD COLORADO)  || |
The label model does not have the "P" but they were easily added after market. There will be an ON OFF lever on the lower right side if it has a pump. I'm going by the drain hose. It has the threaded end used to connect the goose neck that hooks over the sink. Ask about that it if it's not in the machine. It's easy enough to improvise one if you need to like I did.
YES! if you have to lay this down to transport it ONLY put it front side down. Otherwise the power unit oil will leak out and make a mess. Not only that but there's no way to add oil without taking the whole thing apart. These are great machines! Have Fun!
|Post# 1037122 , Reply# 10   7/4/2019 at 12:17 by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)  || |
|Post# 1037125 , Reply# 11   7/4/2019 at 12:36 by JustJunque (Western MA)  || |
Happy 4th/Independence Day!
I get the impression that the seller isn't big on taking more pics.
Like I said, if someone else doesn't beat me to it, I'm going to look at it in person Saturday morning.
The seller said his mother used to run it in the kitchen.
To me, that would support it probably having a pump...no?
She probably drained it into the kitchen sink?
How else could she use it in the kitchen? Floor drain? Hose out the door?
I don't know. Fingers crossed, I'll find out on Saturday!
|Post# 1037134 , Reply# 12   7/4/2019 at 13:46 by ea56 (Cotati, Calif.)  || |
Yes, a pump could have been added after market, but the drain hose having the threaded end for the aluminum “hook” to screw onto isn’t necessarily an indication that it originally had a pump. From my recollection of seeing these machines new in the Maytag showroom back in the day and in the brochures of the day, ALL of the Maytag wringer washers were equipped with this same drain hose, the only distinction for the pump equipped model would have been the addition of the aluminum hook at the end for draining either in a stand pipe drain or a washtub.
Also, take a look at the Maytag Wringers for sale on ebay. All the non pump models use the exact same drain hose. The white, threaded end has a hook on it that is used to keep the hose attached to the side of the machine.
And as far as draining a non pump model used in the kitchen, many owners would have just rolled it to the backdoor and gravity drained it on the ground outside. Its unlikely that owners would have had a floor drain in the kitchen floor. And gravity draining into buckets certainly could have been done, but it sure would have been a hassle. Also, you could attach a garden hose to the end of the hose and run the hose outside to drain it.
At any rate, I hope you score it. IMHO, the J2L is preferable to the TOL E2L, the capacity is slightly larger, and the porcelain tub is not harmed by any laundry detergents or LCB, like the upscale aluminum tub can be. The only real advantage of the aluminum tub is that it is double walled, and insulates the water to keep it hotter longer.
This post was last edited 07/04/2019 at 14:09
|Post# 1037139 , Reply# 13   7/4/2019 at 14:03 by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)  || |
just to clarify that there are two different nozzles, the one on the left for a pump model, and the right for gravity drain. The gooseneck would not sit properly on the right hand version.
The J2L pictured shows the gravity drain hose.
|Post# 1037141 , Reply# 14   7/4/2019 at 14:12 by ea56 (Cotati, Calif.)  || |
I wasn’t aware of the slight difference in the angle of the threaded end between the pump and non pump models. At first glance they both look the same. This would explain why my recollection of the display models of the day all had drain hoses that looked the same.
Also, I’ve only owned/used pump models.
|Post# 1037142 , Reply# 15   7/4/2019 at 14:12 by qsd-dan (West)  || |
Send them this picture and ask if it's in the tub. If it isn't, it's probably lying somewhere around the house or in the garage. It'll give them some time to find it before you pick it up.
View Full Size
|Post# 1037157 , Reply# 16   7/4/2019 at 17:35 by JustJunque (Western MA)  || |
Thanks for the great picture of the gooseneck.
I sent it to him.
I don't know if he'll reply, but maybe he'll look for it, if it's not with the washer now.
|Post# 1037210 , Reply# 17   7/5/2019 at 06:28 by JustJunque (Western MA)  || |
Provided it doesn't get sold before I can get there, I'm having some anxiety about transport.
I didn't want to, but let's say I have to carry it in the back of an SUV, laying down.
We've established that I will only lay it on its front.
That will prevent oil leakage.
Is there anything else that I should be worried about?
Anything that could come loose or bang around while driving?
Also, in an old thread, someone suggested removing the wringer before trying to lift or transport one of these, because that part has a lot of weight to it.
How difficult would that be?
I don't want to take anything apart that I won't be able to put back together.
And, keep in mind, if the machine hasn't been touched since the 1970s, things probably won't move too freely.
Help me not to be so stressed over this!
It's supposed to be fun!
|Post# 1037214 , Reply# 18   7/5/2019 at 09:23 by dermacie (my forever home (Glenshaw, PA))  || |
I have a 1952 Maytag J2l that I have owned and used regularly for the last 5 years. I do not have a pump model (I wish I did) but my laundry room has a floor drain and it doesn't take any effort to drop the hose and let it gravity drain.
I use it when I have a back up of laundry and want to get it all done quickly.
|Post# 1037218 , Reply# 19   7/5/2019 at 10:26 by ea56 (Cotati, Calif.)  || |
“I use it when I have a back up of laundry and want to get it all done quickly. “
Boy ain’t that the true! Nothing gets a great big stack of laundry done faster than a wringer washer. Granted, you may have to stand over it pretty much constantly for 60 to 90 mins, depending upon how many loads you have to do, but once its done, its done. And cleaner than most any other machine will get the laundry. Plus, for me anyway, its kind of meditative. The repetition of movement is zen like.
And if you’re lucky enough to have a good clothesline, with lots of space, its even better.
|Post# 1037219 , Reply# 20   7/5/2019 at 10:27 by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)  || |
I transported mine in the back of a sedan with no problem. Of course, removing the wringer is necessary. If you don't know already, you turn the wringer control lever so that it's sticking out (180 degrees from the "Off" position) and then it's ready to lift out. If, by chance, it's seized - which is actually quite rare - perhaps spray some WD-40 into the gap between the wringer head and the post. Have a rag or plastic ready to wrap around the greasy post that extends down from the wringer head.
Regarding leakage, the area of concern is the horizontal drive shaft, which goes from the central power unit (transmission) to the wringer post. There is a 1/4" breather hole on the top of it - if you slide a finger along it you'll locate the hole. As a further precaution, you could wrap a cloth or some plastic around this area, or tape it.
|Post# 1037222 , Reply# 21   7/5/2019 at 11:28 by JustJunque (Western MA)  || |
Very helpful information!
I'm relieved that removing the wringer isn't a big complex operation!
I'm assuming you just reverse the process to reinstall it.
And I'll be sure to put something around the area of the potential oil leak point!
In more good news, I just found out that work is letting out a couple of hours early today.
I'm going to call the seller and see if I can come see it today instead of tomorrow.
Even if I don't pick it up until tomorrow, I can take care of the purchase today, so I don't have to worry about someone else snagging it.
Send lots of positive thoughts my way! Please!
|Post# 1037242 , Reply# 22   7/5/2019 at 16:07 by JustJunque (Western MA)  || |
Well folks, I'm the proud (?) owner of a Maytag J2L.
The question mark is for the unknown mechanical condition.
The inside of the tub looks to be in great condition; just dirty.
The outside of the machine looks decent, but dirty.
There's a small amount of rust in a few areas, just below the black rubber piece that fills the gap between the tub and the skirt.
Other than that, just grimy from decades of storage.
To answer the pump question; there is, in fact a lever with "on" and "off" markings on the bottom of the right side. So, we have a pump.
And, as suggested earlier in the thread, the gooseneck was in the tub.
Well, part of the gooseneck.
The part that screws onto the drain hose is still screwed onto the end of the hose.
The aluminum-looking curved tube is somehow pulled out from the female end.
It still has a flare to the one end of it, so I'm not sure how it got separated.
As for the oil on the left rear leg...it is there.
But, so is a bunch of residual oil, with dirt stuck in it, all up around the wringer itself.
Is it possible, when the machine was being put into long-term storage, someone could have slathered some of the moving parts with some kind of oil, to keep them from seizing up, and it just ran down onto the leg?
Everything looked relatively clean on the underside.
I mean, dirty, from storage. But nothing underneath looked overly oily.
I still have the transportation dilemma to face.
Seeing it up close and personal, I'm sure it would easily fit in the Explorer.
Hopefully, I can take the wringer off without any drama.
The wringer swivels freely, if that's any indication.
And, I would lay it front side down, and hope and pray that nothing bad happens.
Just think. Once I get it home and start messing with it, I'll have a whole new slew of questions for you all!
And so the fun begins!
P.S. I also just took a closer look at the model decal.
All along, I've thought it was called a "Gyrator" washer.
I only just realized that it actually says "Gyratator".
So much to learn!
|Post# 1037249 , Reply# 23   7/5/2019 at 18:25 by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)  || |
My J2L is older than yours (has red wringer release bar...), and has a pump.
My thought is when pumps became available owners of J2L wringers had them installed as an after market upgrade, and or had the thing installed before it was delivered from appliance store.
While gravity draining is all very well, the addition of a pump meant those in apartments and or whose laundry areas lacked floor drains could use a Maytag wringer.
Grease around wringer/rollers.
There is grease/lubricant on the bearings for rollers. Shouldn't be so much as to leak out causing a huge mess. Would have to see pictures....
It could be that the washer was at some point laid down incorrectly and grease/oil leaked where it shouldn't and no one bothered to clean it up totally. Fact there is "dirt" caked on with oil leads one at least to believe this may have happened.
Didn't see mentioned, or maybe one missed it, but did you test to see if the agitator came off easily?
|Post# 1037251 , Reply# 24   7/5/2019 at 18:35 by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)  || |
As others have mentioned oil leaking isn't a mortal illness with Maytag wringer washers. Just means sooner or later the thing will have to be stripped down and transmission cleaned out, and fresh oil added.
Testimony to how well engineered and built these machines are, they will run for quite some time with low oil levels, gunk, or sludge in the gearcase/transmission. State of various parts after such treatment would be the question, but at least back then things were just simply rebuilt.
|Post# 1037259 , Reply# 25   7/5/2019 at 19:40 by JustJunque (Western MA)  || |
Thank you for the input!
I did not check to see if the agitator came off.
Nor did I take any pictures.
I will certainly do both once I get it home.
I'll probably start a new thread once I'm actually in possession.
Then, it will be a case of "how do I do this?" as opposed to "Should I buy this?"
I'd love to procure an original owner's manual for it.
I'm going to ask the seller if there's any chance he has it, since his parents bought the machine new, but I won't get my hopes up too high.
|Post# 1037261 , Reply# 26   7/5/2019 at 19:46 by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)  || |
|Post# 1037289 , Reply# 27   7/6/2019 at 06:28 by JustJunque (Western MA)  || |
I have seen where downloads are available.
However, I'm one of those folks who likes to have an original hard copy of a manual.
Agreed, the bay is probably my best shot; unless the seller has the original laying around somewhere.
There are a few on there currently, but they're older versions.
I've seen the correct one for this era machine once. Someone was including it with the J2L that they were selling.
And now for another noob question.
Before I even attempt it; what is the correct way to remove the agitator (or Gyratator?) from this machine?
I'd rather ask beforehand than to have to ask how to fix it after I do something wrong and break it.
|Post# 1037296 , Reply# 28   7/6/2019 at 09:24 by e2l-arry (LAKEWOOD COLORADO)  || |
To remove the agitator just grab it by the post with both hands and give it a pull up. Hopefully it will come right off. If not, well . . . we'll cross that bridge when we come to it. GREAT that it's a pump model! You should be able to reassemble the goose neck assembly. I seem to remember seeing them "new" on Ebay and they were bagged unassembled. Can't be any more that 3 or 4 parts to assemble it. The pump makes things easier and even more fun. My Grandmother had her Speed Queen wringer in the kitchen with no pump. Had to empty into a bucket then empty the bucket down the drain or out the window. Heavy work for an old gal!
|Post# 1037305 , Reply# 29   7/6/2019 at 10:42 by JustJunque (Western MA)  || |
Well, it's official.
It resides in our laundry room now!
A couple of details to mention, just to see if this sounds right.
When I removed the wringer before trying to transport the machine, (fortunately, the wringer came right off as intended), there is oil in the center the tube that the post fits into.
Should it be filled with oil right up to the top like that?
Second: I forgot to wrap the tube underneath, to further insure that oil wouldn't leak out of there, even though we transported it front side down.
Interestingly enough, some oil did leak out onto the back side of the skirt.
But it didn't leak from the breather hole. It seems like it came out somewhere in the area of where the tube to the wringer passes through the skirt.
Just taking a quick, uneducated look around at the underside, I can see that it's going to need a new belt.
I'm really hoping that's something that even I will be capable of doing by myself.
The first thing that I'm going to work on is seeing if the agitator will lift off, and getting started on the much needed cleaning.
I'm sure I'll be back with lots of questions!
I'm so appreciative of everyone's help and advice!
|Post# 1037307 , Reply# 30   7/6/2019 at 11:07 by e2l-arry (LAKEWOOD COLORADO)  || |
Don't fill the wringer shaft with any oil. Whatever is in there will do all the lubricating that's needed. The wringer shaft is actually packed with grease, not oil. Maybe yours has somewhat liquefied over the years, but it should be fine. You can only re-pack with new grease but doing an overhaul and I doubt that's needed. As others have said, a little oil down the rear leg is pretty common on these and they can run for YEARS like that. I'd clean it up the best you can and then see how it goes once you start washing with it.One thing to know about these machines is once it's plugged in, everything behind the scenes is in motion. The power unit and the wringer. the agitator and wringer move or stop moving by a system of clutches that engage or disengage the mechanisms. Don't let replacing the belt intimidate you. It's really easy and self apparent once you loosen the motor bolts to remove the old belt. Slip the new one on, put tension on it and re-tighten the motor bolts with a socket wrench. I'm betting you'll be washing with it in no time!
|Post# 1037308 , Reply# 31   7/6/2019 at 11:16 by JustJunque (Western MA)  || |
I'm just wondering if, like I had speculated earlier, when this machine was going into long term storage, maybe someone absolutely loaded the moving parts with oil, with the thought of preventing them from seizing up.
I'm just thinking maybe there's not supposed to be this much oil in there.
Especially now that you inform me that it should be lubricated with grease, not oil.
I mean, there seems to be a lot of oil in there!
I'll try to get a picture of where the wringer mounts, before I reinstall it.
|Post# 1037310 , Reply# 32   7/6/2019 at 12:23 by JustJunque (Western MA)  || |
I don't know how good these pictures are, but here's the mess.
And, despite my better judgement telling me not to, I couldn't resist plugging it in.
And, that revealed the first mechanical issue.
The agitator doesn't stop when the knob is pushed in.
Is that terminal?
I'm guessing it's not something that I'm going to want to take on myself.
Also, I can just about lift the machine off the floor by the agitator, and it doesn't want to come off.
|Post# 1037327 , Reply# 33   7/6/2019 at 15:46 by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)  || |
compared with many others I've seen.
Regarding the agitator control knob - hmmm...that's a bit of a mystery. The only thing I can think of is that the cotter pin has come out of the linkage to the power unit. Check to see if it's present. If not, mystery solved.
And the situation with the wringer post - it does look like a little excess oil there, which could be mopped out.
The agitator removal can sometimes be a challenge, especially when the previous owners have not been diligent about removing it after each use. After filling the tub half-way with REALLY hot water, try removing it (wearing rubber gloves if the water is too hot to handle.) Hopefully you'll be successful in removing it without damage. When done, ensure that you wipe a film of Vaseline over the splines of the drive post to ensure easy removal in the future (as per Maytag's instructions.)
|Post# 1037330 , Reply# 34   7/6/2019 at 16:51 by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)  || |
Sadly this is a fairly common occurrence when getting a used Maytag wringer.
Maytag clearly and expressly told owners to remove the agitator when laundry day was done and leave it off until next use. This and to occasionally put a bit of either Maytag grease or Vaseline on the post for lubrication. Sadly not everyone followed that advice and or after last use put the washer up without taking off the agitator.
What happens is you now have the thing stuck onto the post, glued as it were by hard water minerals, soap/detergent residue and lint.
Here is how one dealt with the issue:
Other members had the same problem and their solutions are in the archives as well.
Sometimes just soaking long enough with very hot water will loosen things up enough that one (or a few) good tugs upwards will get the thing off. If not then you'll have to come up with a cunning plan.
Strongly suggest downloading from the library a copy of the Maytag wringer service manual. There you will find answers to most of your questions including how to trouble shoot the agitator knob not working properly.
No, that situation isn't terminal per se, but needs to be sorted.
Pulling that knob in or out merely engages or disengages the agitator. Motor continues to run long as machine is plugged into outlet. In order to work the wringer you need the machine powered on, so you can't unplug to stop the agitator.
It is also very important not to move the wringer position while rollers are engaged.
As mentioned the wringer gear post is packed with grease, not oil. So it sounds like whatever was in yours has begun breaking down and liquefying. Not huge issue as lubricant is lubricant. IIRC the service manual does recommend from time to time applying a bit of Maytag "grease" to the wringer post, but this would be done infrequently. Cleaning things out and repacking with fresh grease means taking machine apart, and we're not on that right now.
Maytag really over built and designed these washers. They can take reasonable amounts of abuse and continue to work for years. This include low to nil lubrication in gears/trans. Yes, sooner or later things will wear down because of it, but things can then be rebuilt.
|Post# 1037333 , Reply# 35   7/6/2019 at 17:17 by e2l-arry (LAKEWOOD COLORADO)  || |
It's LOT cleaner than most I've seen. I wouldn't be too concerned with the wringer post. I've seen a lot that look like yours. I'm thinking maybe someone thought it would be a good idea to spray some WD-40 or other lubricant around the wringer seams. Just clean it up with any spray cleaner or good old hot water and soap. Looking underneath you should see the agitator shaft just connects to a little lever on the power unit. Pulling the shaft out engages the agitator clutch activating the unit. Pushing it in disengages it. It's pretty simple really. Let me know if you get stuck. I have a detailed picture of it somewhere. The hot HOT water trick is the first/best way to try to unstick the agitator. If it stays stuck I'd use it that was for a couple of washes then see if after some usage time it becomes un-stuck on it's own.
|Post# 1037355 , Reply# 36   7/6/2019 at 20:11 by JustJunque (Western MA)  || |
Thank you again.
Regarding the linkage to the agitator:
The cotter pin is in place, and things move when I operate the control knob.
I decided to just plug the old girl in, and let her run for a while.
I intermittently engaged and disengaged the agitator.
At one point, I noticed that it wouldn't stop when disengaged, but it would slow down.
I was playing around on my phone, and sort of ignoring the running machine for a couple of minutes.
When I did look back at the agitator, it had stopped!
Maybe something just needs to work itself back into proper order after being dormant for several decades.
As for the hot water method with the agitator removal:
I believe I'll wait until tomorrow, and wheel her outside to try that.
Not knowing if the tub will hold water without leaking, I would rather test it outside.
And, we've had incredible heat and humidity today, and some thunderstorms that moved through with torrential rain.
The tub is easily the best looking part of the machine!
I'll try to remember to attach a picture with this post, as well as one of the serial number.
Can these washers be dated by the serial number?
I think I'm pretty much done with the grease and grime removal for tonight.
I know I'm going to be mighty sore in the coming days!
This is more elbow grease than I've spent in a long time!
|Post# 1037356 , Reply# 37   7/6/2019 at 20:20 by qsd-dan (West)  || |
|Post# 1037359 , Reply# 38   7/6/2019 at 20:57 by JustJunque (Western MA)  || |
I was kind of hoping the washer and I would have the same "born on" date.
Well, year anyway.
Missed it by one. I'm circa 1967.
|Post# 1037430 , Reply# 39   7/7/2019 at 17:35 by qsd-dan (West)  || |
|Post# 1037839 , Reply# 40   7/11/2019 at 08:49 by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)  || |
If you are still looking for a replacement goose-neck for the pump drain hose, one just popped up on eBay.
View Full Size
|Post# 1037859 , Reply# 41   7/11/2019 at 11:25 by JustJunque (Western MA)  || |
Thanks for the heads-up!
If I can ever get the threaded end off of the drain hose, I'm going to see if mine can be put back together.
But, just in case, I believe I'll buy this one.
Of course, either way, I still have to get the old one off the hose!
Can anyone recommend a good penetrating oil that won't harm the rubber parts?
Just out of curiosity; the thing isn't reverse threaded, is it?
|Post# 1037864 , Reply# 42   7/11/2019 at 12:19 by e2l-arry (LAKEWOOD COLORADO)  || |
What are you trying to get off the hose? That white threaded piece on the end of the hose is supposed to be there. You connect the goose neck to that.
|Post# 1037876 , Reply# 43   7/11/2019 at 13:37 by JustJunque (Western MA)  || |
But my gooseneck is in pieces.
The curved tube was loose in the tub of the washer when I got it, and the threaded end of it is stuck on the threaded end of the white piece on the end of the hose.
If that doesn't make sense, I can take a picture later, when I get home from work.
|Post# 1037893 , Reply# 44   7/11/2019 at 16:01 by JustJunque (Western MA)  || |
Here's a picture anyway.
For what it's worth; I was in an automotive shop today, and they had some product in a 55 gallon drum.
There was a pump installed on it, to dispense whatever was in the drum.
The gooseneck on the pump bore a striking resemblance to the one for the old Maytag.
I wonder if it would fit.
Just thinking out loud. Say someone needed a gooseneck for a washer but couldn't find one.
I wonder if one from a drum pump would work, and possibly be easier to find.
View Full Size
This post was last edited 07/11/2019 at 16:18
|Post# 1037895 , Reply# 45   7/11/2019 at 16:16 by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)  || |
|Post# 1037897 , Reply# 46   7/11/2019 at 16:25 by JustJunque (Western MA)  || |
I did try some WD-40 a couple/few days ago.
I was probably pretty conservative with how much I used, because I didn't know if it would harm the rubber.
I don't know if something a little more potent would be advised.
I also have Liquid Wrench and PB Blaster on hand.
Worst case scenario; what do you think my chances are of finding a correct hose and just replacing the whole thing?
|Post# 1037900 , Reply# 47   7/11/2019 at 16:42 by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)  || |
A 12” channel lock should be able to get that broken end off of the goose neck without issue. It’s the equivalent of a garden hose connector.
View Full Size
|Post# 1037902 , Reply# 48   7/11/2019 at 17:10 by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)  || |
Either have someone hold the hose, or put the thing into a vise, then with a good grip and some elbow grease....
Or just simply throw in the towel and buy a new hose, fittings and be done with things. The thing is only held on by a clamp to the pump which is easily shifted. If it appears worn or whatever just use new when putting on the replacement hose.
While it is great to keep original bits when getting a new toy, sometimes one's sanity simply requires moving on.
|Post# 1037917 , Reply# 49   7/11/2019 at 18:19 by JustJunque (Western MA)  || |
I will definitely try the locking pliers.
I don't have the exact type recommended, but I have some similar.
If I do feel the need to throw in the towel, where might I go to find a replacement hose?
Preferably, with the same style end on it.
I know...the bay.
But I didn't know if there's a magical place out there, with scads of vintage Maytag parts.
|Post# 1037924 , Reply# 50   7/11/2019 at 18:43 by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)  || |
Check this tread: www.automaticwasher.org/c...
There is a post with part numbers.
Not sure if the Maytag guy in Ovid, NY is still in business, but that is a good place to start. Also eBay and other internet sources including that guy with ad on CL (see thread in Shopper's Square) are others. Then there are the various Amish Maytag service/parts places.
|Post# 1037936 , Reply# 51   7/11/2019 at 20:57 by JustJunque (Western MA)  || |
I'll definitely check them out.
So far, I can't find too much on the guy in Ovid. Nothing under his eBay name either.
Too bad. It sounded like he was really good.
I will check back with the guy in Arizona.
|Post# 1037939 , Reply# 52   7/11/2019 at 21:08 by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)  || |
Another source: https://www.ebay.com/itm/143323835360QUE...
Dave's repair has a website under same name as well selling Maytag wringer parts.
|Post# 1037940 , Reply# 53   7/11/2019 at 21:15 by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)  || |
Gentleman's name was "Phil" and he was in Ovid, NY. But also (IIRC) he was retiring and getting out of the business of both repairing and selling Maytag wringer parts.
His eBay name "cayuga2" shows no activity in some time. You might be able to find something in the archives and or someone will chime in with more information.