Thread Number: 79846
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Need Help Quick with Maytag A612 Washing Machine |
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Post# 1037453 , Reply# 2   7/7/2019 at 22:53 (1,726 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)   |   | |
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Have your renters turn the dial all the way to the final spin position, and see if it shows signs of life when the knob is pulled?
It's not likely that it tripped the imbalance switch, as opening and closing the lid again would have reset this. It's not likely to be the motor overload tripping, as the renters would have commented on the obvious squealing or buzzing sounds that would accompany this (or the conditions which would cause it). So what else will stop the motor? Not satisfying the fill level switch would. Not enough water, and the switch wouldn't energize the motor to agitate, nor would the timer advance, so it would effectively be dead (and silently dead). So that could either be a wiring fault, or perhaps a fault of the fill valve? Shutting off the house water supply would also have the same effect. The final spin doesn't care what the water level is, that's why I suggested that test. And of course, checking the fuse would be a good first step, even if you do believe it is shared, just to rule that out. |
Post# 1037454 , Reply# 3   7/7/2019 at 23:03 (1,726 days old) by DangerBoy (Calgary, Alberta, Canada)   |   | |
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What are the chances the lid switch has gone faulty? |
Post# 1037461 , Reply# 5   7/8/2019 at 00:56 (1,726 days old) by DangerBoy (Calgary, Alberta, Canada)   |   | |
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If it helps you to know where the switch is located, the lid switch part number for that machine was 205415 but has been superceded by W10820036. The link goes to the page where you can see the parts diagram. CLICK HERE TO GO TO DangerBoy's LINK |
Post# 1037482 , Reply# 6   7/8/2019 at 08:12 (1,725 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)   |   | |
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To be clear, I was helping brainstorming possibilities, not providing a diagnosis. It could be the lid switch, and it could be any number of other things. You will have to be on-site and open up the machine to diagnose, otherwise you are just firing the parts cannon and hoping for the best. If it was the lid switch, you could tell definitively in just a few minutes with a multimeter. >> I have a friend out there who might be able to work on it for me tomorrow and >> bypass the switch to get the machine working until I get out there in a couple weeks. Please don't do this. The machine would no longer be able to shut itself down if it goes unbalanced again, nor would it have a functioning safety interlock to keep it from starting unexpectedly when your tenants have their arms in the tub. It might be something that folks here do to their own machines, knowing the risks, so that they can watch them run with the lid open. But for a rental property? No way. |
Post# 1037506 , Reply# 9   7/8/2019 at 13:16 (1,725 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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Post# 1037507 , Reply# 10   7/8/2019 at 13:21 (1,725 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)   |   | |
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Fewer parts = simpler machine, less wiring, lower unit cost, lower assembly costs, and improved reliability. It's a clever system, just with the downside that *everything* stops when you open the lid, even filling with water. One additional benefit is that your out-of-balance switch gets regular "exercise"/testing. So if it fails closed (letting the machine run), you're likely to notice it in a way that you might not, until it's too late, with a dedicated OOB switch. |
Post# 1037509 , Reply# 11   7/8/2019 at 13:31 (1,725 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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Post# 1037512 , Reply# 12   7/8/2019 at 14:08 (1,725 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)   |   | |
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Post# 1037513 , Reply# 13   7/8/2019 at 14:37 (1,725 days old) by peteski50 (New York)   |   | |
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Post# 1037515 , Reply# 14   7/8/2019 at 14:53 (1,725 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)   |   | |
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I’m far from being the Maytag guru but I’m pretty sure filling with the lid open started with the 12 series. I have a 1984 LA 710 that does nothing with the lid open and a 1987 A412 that does let the machine fill with the lid open. The 1987 A412 also still has the pitman transmission. This changed to the orbital soon afterward. As to the original post topic, glad you were able to get your Maytag back in service.
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Post# 1037516 , Reply# 15   7/8/2019 at 15:04 (1,725 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)   |   | |
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Well it looks like I'm caught with my foot in mouth. Y'all are correct - the fill with lid open feature didn't start till the 12 series. I must have been dreaming that the 10 series did this as well!
And - to the OP, I'm glad it was an easy solution that the tenant was able to self-serve. Those lid switches can be pesky and a real head-scratcher. Ben
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Post# 1037517 , Reply# 16   7/8/2019 at 15:07 (1,725 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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I played with an A810 12 years ago and remember the water valve cutting off with a triggered lid switch. As far as I know, the open lid water fill feature wasn't available until the 12 series washers unless Maytag introduced that feature on the very short lived 11 series machines (yet to play with one of those).
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Post# 1037519 , Reply# 17   7/8/2019 at 15:13 (1,725 days old) by wayupnorth (On a lake between Bangor and Bar Harbor, Maine)   |   | |
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35 years ago I wound wire to the drain outlet to keep the lid switch connection open so everything works on my 511, lid open or closed, its always open when in use. If by chance it goes off balance, it slams the open lid into the timer and kills everything until you redistribute the load and pull the timer out to resume the cycle but I am always right there when I have any appliance running.
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Post# 1037521 , Reply# 18   7/8/2019 at 15:30 (1,725 days old) by peteski50 (New York)   |   | |
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Post# 1037556 , Reply# 20   7/8/2019 at 22:26 (1,725 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)   |   | |
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There is a spring loaded armature, for lack of the correct term, that is between the lid and the switch. There is a piece of metal that sticks up on top of the tub cover. If the machine gets out of balance that piece of metal that sticks up contacts this armature and removes contact from the lid switch shutting the machine down. Opening and closing the lid after this happens resets the armature so when the lid is closed again it allows the lid switch to be satisfied and assumes the operator has redistributed the out of balance load. So if the switch is bypassed the machine will not stop for an out of balance load.
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Post# 1037567 , Reply# 22   7/8/2019 at 23:29 (1,725 days old) by DangerBoy (Calgary, Alberta, Canada)   |   | |
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I reposted the same thing above by accident. I'd delete it but I don't have those priveleges. Please ignore it. Thanks RepairGuy for the answer to my question. |
Post# 1037664 , Reply# 23   7/9/2019 at 19:39 (1,724 days old) by bendixmark (Winchester Mass)   |   | |
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The lidswitch may be ok the lidswitch armature may be out of adjustment there is an adjustment screw.Also being in a cabin the voltage to the machine could be low and the motor is quitting when it goes into spin. |
Post# 1037669 , Reply# 24   7/9/2019 at 21:15 (1,724 days old) by turquoisedude (.)   |   | |
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The low voltage observation made me recall the trouble I had with my '51 Frigidaire that would not spin - I was powering it through a power strip with a weak breaker and it kept popping when the machine tried to spin.
Could the machine be hooked up using an extension cord? If so, try using something of a heavier gauge. |