Thread Number: 79857
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Kitchenaid Sure Scrub Washing machine help |
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Post# 1037613 , Reply# 1   7/9/2019 at 14:49 (1,724 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)   |   | |
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Post# 1037614 , Reply# 2   7/9/2019 at 14:54 (1,724 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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Post# 1037616 , Reply# 3   7/9/2019 at 14:58 (1,724 days old) by jillkbristow (Jonesboro, AR)   |   | |
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According to Kitchenaid customer service it’s a 1993 model. I am clueless about the parts but I was told I needed part 3591598 (pump) and WP3363892 (water pump) for the motor. 🤷🏼♀️ |
Post# 1037621 , Reply# 4   7/9/2019 at 15:30 (1,724 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)   |   | |
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The motor shows “no longer available “ but I’ll do some more digging when I get a minute. Was the machine leaking water? Usually the pump can be replaced by itself as long as it wasn’t leaking for an extended period. Or is the motor bad and the pump won’t come off? The pump is still available. This is a great old machine don’t give up on it yet.
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Post# 1037623 , Reply# 6   7/9/2019 at 15:38 (1,724 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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It's a 1994 model-year, manufactured in the 13th week of 1994. The pump (orig 3352496, subs to WP3363892) is available. One source I use lists it for $27 (plus shipping), another source is $38. (Part number 3591598 you cite for the motor is not valid.) The motor (orig 3351023, subs to 3951598) is tagged as NLA. There is a used 3591598 on eBay. A Whirlpool 2-speed direct-drive motor may substitute. KA motors were/are a bit more robust. What happened to require both a pump and motor? Pump leaked and damaged the motor shaft? |
Post# 1037624 , Reply# 7   7/9/2019 at 16:10 (1,724 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)   |   | |
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If the machine stopped at the end of agitation and did not pump out that sounds like the lid safety switch to me. 285671 is the current part number for a lid switch. These machines ceased production around 2005 +/-. Pumps usually need to be replaced because they have started leaking or something gets jammed inside. From what you’ve said, if the machine hasn’t been leaking, I would say the replacement of the lid switch will get it back in service.
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Post# 1037637 , Reply# 8   7/9/2019 at 17:37 (1,724 days old) by Eronie (Flushing Michigan)   |   | |
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Bad coupler? |
Post# 1037652 , Reply# 10   7/9/2019 at 18:15 (1,724 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)   |   | |
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Ok with this new information I change my diagnosis to the motor or possibly the capacitor. There could possibly be something in the pump but if it’s as rusty as you say, then the motor and pump would have to be replaced anyway because one or the other or both would be destroyed taking it apart. So from the information given and me not personally looking at the machine I would get the pump, motor (wp661600), and I always like to install a new capacitor (wp8572720) with a new motor. This is going to be a fairly expensive repair for a machine that age but if you like it and don’t mind spending the money to keep it going it’s worth it in my opinion.
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Post# 1037665 , Reply# 11   7/9/2019 at 19:58 (1,724 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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If this process is close to what it would be on a KitchenAid, it doesn't look all that complicated. CLICK HERE TO GO TO RP2813's LINK |
Post# 1037689 , Reply# 13   7/10/2019 at 05:03 (1,724 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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