Thread Number: 80400  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
How much would you be willing to pay for a Keymatic 3224/3226 door seal?
[Down to Last]

automaticwasher.org's exclusive eBay Watch:
scroll >>> for more items --- [As an eBay Partner, eBay may compensate automaticwasher.org if you make a purchase using any link to eBay on this page]
Post# 1043507   9/1/2019 at 16:20 (1,691 days old) by hoover3224 (Coventry )        

I’m Hey all you avid Keymatic fans!

Just out of pure curiosity how much would you Keymatic 3224/3226 fans be prepared to pay for a
new door seal?

I know a lot of you are desperate just like I am for a new one and I have had a few quotes and as you can imagine it’s going to be pretty expensive, just the tooling alone is extremely costly.

If you guys could give me a rough idea how much you’d be willing to spend if I was to have them made
and put them on ebay? That way could see if it would be financially viable to even have them done.

Best wishes
Cam








Post# 1043513 , Reply# 1   9/1/2019 at 17:15 (1,691 days old) by keymatic3203 (Cardiff UK)        
Hi Cam

thanks for looking into this, to start the ball rolling, at between 50 and 100 pounds each, I would happily buy three, much higher than that and I would really have to consider if I could justify the expense when both my machines need major work, which is not likely to happen for several years yet.

Sorry I know I must reply to your previous thread, it looks in beautiful condition appearance wise. I'm sorry it's missing a it's timeline indicator tape, hopefully you'll find one, or be able to make one some how.

Mathew









Post# 1043518 , Reply# 2   9/1/2019 at 17:50 (1,691 days old) by hoover3224 (Coventry )        

Hey Mathew

Thanks getting in touch, I think you was thinking along the same lines as me, the one company I’ve spoken to has said I need to have a minimum of 25 made, I just worry I wouldn’t sell them all. I’d keep a couple for mine and look to sell the rest.

Oh I love my machine, it’s just that so many problems are rearing their ugly heads as I delve deeper into the machine, makes the door seal seem immaterial at this stage.

I’ll keep you guys updated re the door seals, I know there’s so many out there that need them!

Thanks again
Cam


Post# 1043659 , Reply# 3   9/3/2019 at 01:34 (1,689 days old) by Alanlondon (London)        
I’d have one

Hi Cam, I have a non working Keymatic, the boot on it is long perished as are the sump pipes. It’s a restoration project I have in mind to start soon. I’d be willing to buy at least one, if not two at the same prices Matthew mentions.

Great that you’re looking into this. If I remember a few years back someone posted on eBay a few door boots in various degrees of new and used and they all went.

Good luck in this pursuit, keep us posted.

Cheers Alan


Post# 1043666 , Reply# 4   9/3/2019 at 05:44 (1,689 days old) by hoover3224 (Coventry )        

Hey Alan, thanks for your message!

It’s nice to see there’s a lot of interest in this as I was worried nobody would be prepared to pay the high costs.

It’s worth noting I’m not interested in making a profit, I just like the idea of being able to help out.
All I want really is to recoup as much of the total cost as much as possible.

My 3224 keymatic is just the same as far as rubber parts go.. the sump hose has totally ripped off, plus numerous other issues.. we sure give ourselves some hard projects! 😂

I will be sending the only old door seal I have off to a rubber seal company today to have a final price agreed.

Will keep you guys updated as talks progress further.

Best wishes
Cam


Post# 1043684 , Reply# 5   9/3/2019 at 10:05 (1,689 days old) by Alanlondon (London)        
Best of luck

Very exciting to see what they say.

Cheers Alan


Post# 1043687 , Reply# 6   9/3/2019 at 11:00 (1,689 days old) by hoover3224 (Coventry )        

This post has been removed by the member who posted it.



Post# 1043689 , Reply# 7   9/3/2019 at 11:21 (1,689 days old) by hoover3224 (Coventry )        

And my boot is sent off, hopefully they can assist in our quest to get our machines water tight!

Here’s a pic of the letter I’ve included.

Best wishes
Cam


  View Full Size
Post# 1043693 , Reply# 8   9/3/2019 at 11:44 (1,689 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

What does the cross-section of the door seal look like?

Have you considered making a mold and casting a replacement yourself? (Silicone?)


Post# 1043699 , Reply# 9   9/3/2019 at 13:08 (1,689 days old) by keymatic3203 (Cardiff UK)        
Hi Alan

I remember those boots on ebay, think they went for around 60-70 pounds, I remember deciding not to go for them, as I didn't have a machine ready for one and given the unknown condition, the thought of paying a high price and for it just dry out before I could use it seemed pointless.

But maybe that selling price is a guide to what they may fetch, but I can see a bigger market for the blue ones, as all the good boots I know of are black and to have to original colour would be an attraction too, giving a larger possible market. Look forward to seeing what response you get Cam.

Low efficiency, interested if anyone has had any success in making door seals or other rubber parts, I don't remember reading about any on Aw, though I do know those brilliant fridgidaire Pulsators one member has produced. I did have a go at making one for the English electric, (same as 57 westinghouse spacemates) above all it was a lesson in how precise these things are, My basic method was to make a mould in casting plaster and modeling clay, which may sound easy but you have to think how to get the original out of the mold and then reassemble, seal and pour the silicone. I spent days on the project ans pounds on 2 part silicone to produce nothing of any use. the big problem I think was that the silicone isn't as thin as latex, so didn't run into the mould as freely as I'd anticipated, so resulted in area of holes or to thin to be of use. I've not given up, but don't have the time to revisit the project now, but I was so glad to have gone through the process as I've learnt a lot and got it out of my system. So when you add up the cost of the time and materials I invested in the experiment, that has be offset against the price I would be prepared to pay to have one made.

Mathew


Post# 1043707 , Reply# 10   9/3/2019 at 14:09 (1,689 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

Mathew, I suppose I was thinking of a different approach - Making a new mold from scratch from measurements, rather than as an impression or cast from an original. 3D printing the mold might be an option, for example. That way, you ensure a uniform result, without copying any damage or distortions present in what remains of the original parts.

I've never seen this part (or even a Hoover washer) in person, but it appears as though the part might be symmetrical? If so, then modeling a replacement is as simple as modeling the profile of a slice. And if you're lucky, "modeling" might even be a strong word, as an accurate dimensioned photo of a slice might be able to be imported in software and revolved to create the new 3D model.

Just a thought.


Post# 1043724 , Reply# 11   9/3/2019 at 16:18 (1,689 days old) by keymatic3203 (Cardiff UK)        
yes that is a thought

and I suppose that would be the way this company would go about it. But it still taught me how you need to think about how the mould would work, is it a one off where the mould could be broken or made in sections to make multiple copies. I wanted to try the plaster mould method as I had seen this method used with puppet and mask making in my line of work. I'm a carpenter at a theatre and work with prop makers who sculpt masks/puppet heads in clay to make a plaster mould and a latex cast. So I wanted to try it for myself, though I knew latex wouldn't be up to the job.

All good head scrathing and problem solving.

Mathew



Post# 1043726 , Reply# 12   9/3/2019 at 16:21 (1,689 days old) by Vacbear58 (Sutton In Ashfield, East Midlands, UK)        


vacbear58's profile picture
Unfortunately it is not that simple as the tub in these machines drops at the front as it fills with water so it has to accommodate this movement as well as the normal stresses and strains of the boot of FL washer

Post# 1043730 , Reply# 13   9/3/2019 at 16:43 (1,689 days old) by brisnat81 (Brisbane Australia)        

Hi Dave,

Unfortunately its not symetrical, it angles downwards between the two pieces.

Cam, I'd be prepared to pay up to $150-$200 AUD for one of these.

Cheers

Nathan


Post# 1043733 , Reply# 14   9/3/2019 at 17:00 (1,689 days old) by hoover3224 (Coventry )        

Hi all,

I’m so pleased to see the interest, it makes looking into it all worthwhile!

I had considered ways of making my own moulds but I’d rather it be done professionally personally then I know it would be suitable for the job, I think we’d be pretty peeved if it decided to rip or distort or not fit properly after spending so much money.. I for one would be effing and jeffing! 😂

I am expecting it to be £2000 at the very least and indeed probably will be much more for the entire process. I’ve been told to expect charges for drawings, tooling, manufacturing and of course the boots themselves!

As mentioned previously, I’ve no wish to make any profit and just to recoup as much of the total cost as possible. The knowledge I’ve helped you guys is profit enough for me!

I’ll keep you all updated going forward

Best wishes
Cam


Post# 1043743 , Reply# 15   9/3/2019 at 18:28 (1,689 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture
>> Unfortunately its not symetrical, it angles downwards between the two pieces.

I understand that it droops when in use, but is the actual seal itself asymmetrical, and not just sufficiently compliant to accommodate that droop?
(And also not just *appearing* to be asymmetrical after having taken a set from being drooped for years in a machine?)

From the images in these two linked threads, everything looks rather uniform...
www.automaticwasher.org/c...
www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/...

A somewhat reliable giveaway would be if the seal has an indication mark or stamping that must be aligned when installing. And an even more reliable indication would be text in the service manual indicating an orientation.

Note that even if you let the pros reproduce the seal, details like this are important - and could reduce your costs considerably for the design and tooling phases of their efforts.


  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 2         View Full Size
Post# 1043745 , Reply# 16   9/3/2019 at 19:08 (1,689 days old) by brisnat81 (Brisbane Australia)        

Hi Dave,

How it is represented in the parts diagram is the reality. The front of the boot is higher than the back of the boot. Even my brand new boot is that way. The angles down from the factory in preparation for the tub to drop when its full of water.

Regards

Nathan



Post# 1043749 , Reply# 17   9/3/2019 at 19:53 (1,689 days old) by hoover3224 (Coventry )        

Hi

I’d say it’s best for the boot to be made exactly as the old one is, after all these years the suspension springs and tub support wire will be potentially weaker and more sloppy so will move about more, so if the boot is made exactly as the old one is so then that will allow for any extra movement and the tubs will surly tilt even further back than they originally did? I’d assume being rubber the old ones will have stretched a bit over time.

If it was all uniform and symmetrical it would probably be too hard on the springs and of course support wires which are always a weak spot. I certainly wouldn’t want to stress my machine with a boot that was the wrong fit.

And as Nathan says it’s generally manufactured that way by design, I’ve never ran my machine with water so I can’t be 100% sure but in the YouTube vids I’ve seen the tub has a tendency to go almost vertical when full of water and heavy wet washing.

If it was to be totally symmetrical I’d expect the boot to try and tear//split under pressure.

I could be talking nonsense but it makes sense to me 😂

Best wishes
Cam


Post# 1043785 , Reply# 18   9/4/2019 at 09:07 (1,688 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture
>> If it was to be totally symmetrical I’d expect the boot to try and tear//split under pressure.

It's really just a standard bellows design, the kind used for all kinds of purposes requiring flexing, offsets, and length changes. The boots on the CV joints of car axles would be a good example, as are bendy straws. Being symmetrical wouldn't be any problem for them, as the compliance and stretch allowances are just a function of the diameter of the bulge and the extra material that comes with it. And you could easily design a seal with more travel allowance than the original if desired.


Not at all trying to argue with you guys - just trying to help make sure your reproductions are correct before spending so much money, and not cascading age-related flaws from used parts down to a second generation of copies. I've seen far too many reproduction parts over the years that were made from old or worn originals, inheriting all of those problems in the process, when they could have easily been corrected......

Hopefully you hear good news from the shop working on your new seals!


Post# 1043801 , Reply# 19   9/4/2019 at 12:31 (1,688 days old) by chestermikeuk (Rainhill *Home of the RailwayTrials* Merseyside,UK)        
Boots..

chestermikeuk's profile picture
If the new boot is replicated exactly like the old which has a larger diameter on the inner tub and smaller hole diameter on the front cabinet and two inner pieces that join to both but are wider at the bottom and joined in the middle (to exact sizes) then all will be perfect …

You are correct in that it does have to be fitted a certain way with the large connected area at the bottom, There is a marking or dot on the Original Hoover boots to identify the top position !!

Here you can see it fitted and empty..


CLICK HERE TO GO TO chestermikeuk's LINK


  View Full Size
Post# 1043803 , Reply# 20   9/4/2019 at 12:49 (1,688 days old) by chestermikeuk (Rainhill *Home of the RailwayTrials* Merseyside,UK)        
keymatic

chestermikeuk's profile picture
And here you can see how it drops and tilts back when full of water ...

  View Full Size
Post# 1043872 , Reply# 21   9/5/2019 at 09:11 (1,687 days old) by hoover3224 (Coventry )        

Hey guys

Minuscule update for you, they’ve received my template door boot and have said they will look into having it made in silicone, like the newer machines. It’s thought that it may last longer and less likely to rot, tear or split as it’s more flexible and durable.

Would you all be interested in that or still prefer the old rubber style?

I personally would prefer silicone as I feel it’s a more modern material and more reliable, that’s just my opinion though.

Best wishes
Cam


Post# 1043892 , Reply# 22   9/5/2019 at 13:18 (1,687 days old) by keymatic3203 (Cardiff UK)        
Hi Cam

I too would personally prefer a modern material that will be more durable and long lasting.

I also think and it's just my opinion, that they must be the original turquoise colour, If they were to be the modern grey colour the price I'd be prepared to pay would be much less, and those with good black boots may well not be interested at all.

Thanks again for looking into this,

Mathew


Post# 1043897 , Reply# 23   9/5/2019 at 13:38 (1,687 days old) by hoover3224 (Coventry )        

Hey Mathew

I did recently see a machine in Currys with a coloured door seal can’t quite remember the brand (could be Haier or one of the Arçelik brands) I immediately thought of the Keymatic. Whilst the colour isn’t the same it just proved that a coloured door seal could be still be made and that got me thinking about how the original colour could be incorporated into more modern materials. So whilst it’s a totally different material being used it’ll in fact look more true to the original than even the genuine black versions do.

I have sent a piece of the original turquoise boot with the black one to show the ideal colour I’d like them to make.

I would probably have half of each colour made because I’m sure some 3226’s would need boots too which of course would require some to be be black.

Best wishes
Cam


Post# 1043904 , Reply# 24   9/5/2019 at 14:28 (1,687 days old) by keymatic3203 (Cardiff UK)        
Just checked

quickly in a brochure and the service notes and both show the 3226 with the light blue boot, but I'm happy to be proved otherwise, my 3226 came to me with a black boot, but then like the 3224s with black boots, they were no doubt replacements.

Mathew


Post# 1043907 , Reply# 25   9/5/2019 at 14:48 (1,687 days old) by hoover3224 (Coventry )        

You could actually be quite right Mathew, I’ve just seen a thread on here of a 3226 with the earlier turquoise body and that had the original colour boot and not black. I wonder if the all white 3226’s that came after still carried on with the original boot colour.

Cam


Post# 1043961 , Reply# 26   9/6/2019 at 05:30 (1,686 days old) by gizmo (Victoria, Australia)        
black or blue?

My slightly torn boot that I have sent to Cam (the one that will be used as a template) is black and is Hoover branded, so black ones are original Hoover too. I'm guessing that the blue ones proved problematic so Hoover changed to a more durable black rubber boot?

I took measurements on the boot before I posted it to Cam and it is definitely asymmetrical.

It has HOOVER moulded in the rubber and also three dots in a line, I guess these are used to align the boot when installing. Anyone have a manual that refers to the dots?

Has anyone approached Qualtex about remanufacturing boots? I think they did the non-genuine ones back in the day. Might they still have the moulds?

Chris.


Post# 1043962 , Reply# 27   9/6/2019 at 05:32 (1,686 days old) by gizmo (Victoria, Australia)        

So Cam has the black boot arrived yet?

Post# 1043966 , Reply# 28   9/6/2019 at 06:24 (1,686 days old) by hoover3224 (Coventry )        

Hi Chris

Indeed it has, thank you for your help in getting this process started.
I have also emailed you just now.

I will be surprised if nobody has already contacted qualtex as a few have mentioned it to me already.
I will message them and see what they come back with.

Best wishes
Cam


Post# 1044421 , Reply# 29   9/10/2019 at 11:41 (1,682 days old) by hoover3224 (Coventry )        

Hey guys

I’ve heard back from them, they’ve received the boot I got from Chris (Gizmo) they think they will be able to help us with our quest.

They need to send it to their tool maker to confirm prices, should hear back sometime next week all being well.

Best wishes
Cam


Post# 1045842 , Reply# 30   9/24/2019 at 10:24 (1,668 days old) by hoover3224 (Coventry )        

Hi all

Not sure if the interest is still there as I’ve not heard anymore from anyone.

I’m sorry for the delay in finding out the cost for a batch to be made.

I keep being given times to expect to hear back from them and it doesn’t happen.. I find it very frustrating when that happens. Rather annoyingly I have to keep chasing them up.
I’m now told a price will be decided this week.

As soon as I know what the outcome is I’ll post it on here.

Thanks
Cameron


Post# 1045855 , Reply# 31   9/24/2019 at 13:43 (1,668 days old) by chestermikeuk (Rainhill *Home of the RailwayTrials* Merseyside,UK)        
Keymatic Boots

chestermikeuk's profile picture
Hi Cam

The interest is here but until a price comes back and we can work out costs and divisions its a muted thread lol.

Looking forward to the estimate costs etc and then we can work out how best to proceed !!


  View Full Size
Post# 1045862 , Reply# 32   9/24/2019 at 15:55 (1,668 days old) by Slowspin66 (lincoln uk)        
Count me in as well

slowspin66's profile picture
Cam keep us posted with the progress .

Post# 1046078 , Reply# 33   9/27/2019 at 04:25 (1,665 days old) by hoover3224 (Coventry )        

Hi

Well unfortunately I’d say it’s bad news, the quote is ridiculously high... £10,000 plus, and that’s just for the tooling quotation and not including production 😟

I’d assume that’s really out of anyone’s price range, I guess I’ll have to shop around further.

Sorry guys!

Cam


  View Full Size
Post# 1046080 , Reply# 34   9/27/2019 at 04:35 (1,665 days old) by chestermikeuk (Rainhill *Home of the RailwayTrials* Merseyside,UK)        
Keymatic Boots...

chestermikeuk's profile picture
Morning Cam

Thanks for the reply, more than the £3k Chris was quoted, the £6k I was quoted and now this...more work to be done me thinks.

Perhaps pursue the Qualtex link further ??

Many Thanks for your efforts !!


Post# 1046081 , Reply# 35   9/27/2019 at 04:47 (1,665 days old) by hoover3224 (Coventry )        

Hi Mike

I definitely thought they were over pricing it a lot.

As I’m sure you guys are doing already I’ll enquire elsewhere. I did wonder if maybe it would be cheaper to have them made in China?

I have emailed Qualtex but had no reply as yet, will see what happens.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, I’ll keep trying!

Are the prices yourself and Chris we’re both quoted for several of them or just one offs?

Best wishes
Cameron


Post# 1046095 , Reply# 36   9/27/2019 at 09:18 (1,665 days old) by Slowspin66 (lincoln uk)        
Keep the faith

slowspin66's profile picture
Cam about a year ago I was looking for a replacement pump valve for a Bendix LT . I searched high and low to see if I could get one and approached a chap to make me one . It was cost prohibitive£130 ish from what I remember then by chance I looked and found something in China for a couple Of quid and free postage !!!!!! They said it would take two years for delivery !!! In fact it arrived in about 2 weeks and was a brilliant match !!There will away around it there always has to be . Best wishes Darren

Post# 1046194 , Reply# 37   9/28/2019 at 09:12 (1,664 days old) by keymatic3203 (Cardiff UK)        
thanks Cameron

for the work and effort you've put into this. All the best with what looks like a meticulous restoration. Keep posting your progress.

Mathew


Post# 1046203 , Reply# 38   9/28/2019 at 11:02 (1,664 days old) by hoover3224 (Coventry )        

Hey Mathew and Darren

Thanks for your messages!

I’ll definitely keep looking around at different rubber manufactures, I’ve enquired with a few in China too.
It seems the most expensive part is making the actual mould itself and not the door boots. I just find it really sad that a large number of these machines are out of action primarily just because they can’t have water in them.

My machine has been pretty much totally stripped, was so many minor faults that if ignored could totally kill the machine, I’ve got loads of pics to show you guys on here how I’m getting on so far if you’re interested?

I’ll keep enquiring about door boots for you all, hope we can get somewhere with it.

Thanks again
Cameron


Post# 1046214 , Reply# 39   9/28/2019 at 14:41 (1,664 days old) by Ricky5050 (Durham Britain)        
Please post pics

ricky5050's profile picture
Hi Cameron we’d love to see any pictures.

How did your bearing change go ?

Richard


Post# 1046257 , Reply# 40   9/29/2019 at 01:38 (1,663 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

>> Well unfortunately I’d say it’s bad news, the quote is ridiculously high... £10,000 plus, and that’s just for the tooling quotation and not including production 😟

I know that's not the number you were hoping for, but I can see how it could cost that much.

To reproduce that part, someone has to spend time taking the measurements and creating a 3D model, then design a multi-part mold that could work with their injection machines, create the part, and allow it to be released. Then that mold has to be created, which for production shops would mean programming and CNC milling of multiple large blocks of aluminum, with some post processing and fixturing as well. Perhaps also a QC check and some trial runs at producing parts. So you're paying for time and materials, across several specialities.

How big is this seal? (approximate diameter when laying flat)
It could be that the size drives up the cost as well.




Post# 1046540 , Reply# 41   10/1/2019 at 14:25 (1,661 days old) by hoover3224 (Coventry )        

Here’s some pics to have a nosy at.

The wiring was in a right old state, literally was a total deathtrap!
Heat shrink has become my best friend! 🤪


Sorry there’s no particular order!

Cameron


  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 15         View Full Size
Post# 1046574 , Reply# 42   10/2/2019 at 00:23 (1,660 days old) by Slowspin66 (lincoln uk)        
Brilliant work

slowspin66's profile picture
What a labour of love this machine has been. Is it the first one you’ve done as you seem to have made brilliant progress quickly What’s left to do apart from the rebuilding ? Looks very complicated .....??
Where are you with the door boots ???
Keep us all posted with your endeavours best wishes Darren


Post# 1046578 , Reply# 43   10/2/2019 at 01:41 (1,660 days old) by chestermikeuk (Rainhill *Home of the RailwayTrials* Merseyside,UK)        
Keymatic

chestermikeuk's profile picture
Great work Cameron, a most complicated machine, even down to the springs n rollers engagement. Heatshrink seems to be the order of the day at the moment ha ha..We found these three things have been our best mates in retoring these washers ha ha...

All The Best for the restoration !!


  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 3         View Full Size
Post# 1046721 , Reply# 44   10/3/2019 at 09:54 (1,659 days old) by hoover3224 (Coventry )        

Hey Mike

I must try that ‘Sticks like Sh*T’ seen it before but never got round to getting any.
I have used JB Weld to stick the springy seal that goes around the bearing housing for that mates with the drum seal.

Sorry to be a pain but I don’t suppose you have a rough idea of the dimensions of the door boot? I’ve been in contact with a company in China who say they can do it but would like to know the over all size.
Sadly I can’t give them the dimensions as I’ve yet to receive the boot that Chris (Gizmo) sent me back from walkers rubber. When dismantling it I noticed the wedges pressure pads and grub screws are missing altogether, and they’ll stay that way, it seemed happy enough without them anyways lol 😂

Best wishes
Cameron


Post# 1046722 , Reply# 45   10/3/2019 at 10:02 (1,659 days old) by hoover3224 (Coventry )        

Hi Darren

Yep, my first ever go with a Keymatic, never even seen one before getting this.
It’s a beautiful beast but so over engineered, everything is so mechanical. I just love taking things apart and learning how they work, this has been really fun to work on but also very stressful, found myself
swearing at it numerous times 😂

As mentioned to mike in the above message, I’m in touch with a company in China, who I believe actually makes boots for newer machines so hopefully they can advise. I’m thinking it’ll be much cheaper being designed and made in China. Far too expensive for them to be made in the UK it seems!

I’ll just live and hope something comes of it all.

Thanks
Cam


Post# 1046750 , Reply# 46   10/3/2019 at 15:25 (1,659 days old) by Slowspin66 (lincoln uk)        
Keep us all posted

slowspin66's profile picture
Your doing a great job there . It looks so complicated . Im hoping you progress the door boots . Keep posting the pictures it’s a really good thread . Darren

Post# 1046758 , Reply# 47   10/3/2019 at 17:11 (1,659 days old) by Lorainfurniture (Cleveland )        
Reproductions

I just had some vintage stove knobs reproduced a while ago. It was crazy expensive. You would have to charge like $500 each to make it work. You might sell 10-20 in your lifetime.

Post# 1052337 , Reply# 48   11/26/2019 at 04:42 (1,605 days old) by hoover3224 (Coventry )        

Hi guys

Finally got a new update from China regarding the door boots.

Been in constant discussions with them and the decided prices is £3000 to have a professional drawing done, mould made and of course production itself. That took some negotiating, believe me it was going to be considerably more. This would work out about £200 each (probably too high I guess)

Additionally there is a cost of £35 per individual boot, however I’m willing to cover this for up to 15 of them.

Not sure if this is still too much for you guys to contemplate? I’m personally happy enough, desperate to get my baby watertight! 😂

That’s the latest anyways.

Best wishes
Cameron


Post# 1052379 , Reply# 49   11/26/2019 at 12:38 (1,605 days old) by chestermikeuk (Rainhill *Home of the RailwayTrials* Merseyside,UK)        
boots

chestermikeuk's profile picture
Can you send us the individual specsheet by Email for dimensions etc and confirm what type of material and colour etc and will have a discuss !!

Thanks for keeping the ball rolling, wasnt sure with not hearing from you, !!

Cheeers, Mike




Forum Index:       Other Forums:                      



Comes to the Rescue!

The Discuss-o-Mat has stopped, buzzer is sounding!!!
If you would like to reply to this thread please log-in...

Discuss-O-MAT Log-In



New Members
Click Here To Sign Up.



                     


automaticwasher.org home
Discuss-o-Mat Forums
Vintage Brochures, Service and Owners Manuals
Fun Vintage Washer Ephemera
See It Wash!
Video Downloads
Audio Downloads
Picture of the Day
Patent of the Day
Photos of our Collections
The Old Aberdeen Farm
Vintage Service Manuals
Vintage washer/dryer/dishwasher to sell?
Technical/service questions?
Looking for Parts?
Website related questions?
Digital Millennium Copyright Act Policy
Our Privacy Policy