Thread Number: 80400
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
How much would you be willing to pay for a Keymatic 3224/3226 door seal? |
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Post# 1043684 , Reply# 5   9/3/2019 at 10:05 (1,689 days old) by Alanlondon (London)   |   | |
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Very exciting to see what they say. Cheers Alan |
Post# 1043687 , Reply# 6   9/3/2019 at 11:00 (1,689 days old) by hoover3224 (Coventry )   |   | |
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Post# 1043689 , Reply# 7   9/3/2019 at 11:21 (1,689 days old) by hoover3224 (Coventry )   |   | |
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And my boot is sent off, hopefully they can assist in our quest to get our machines water tight! Here’s a pic of the letter I’ve included. Best wishes Cam
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Post# 1043693 , Reply# 8   9/3/2019 at 11:44 (1,689 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)   |   | |
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Post# 1043707 , Reply# 10   9/3/2019 at 14:09 (1,689 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)   |   | |
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Mathew, I suppose I was thinking of a different approach - Making a new mold from scratch from measurements, rather than as an impression or cast from an original. 3D printing the mold might be an option, for example. That way, you ensure a uniform result, without copying any damage or distortions present in what remains of the original parts. I've never seen this part (or even a Hoover washer) in person, but it appears as though the part might be symmetrical? If so, then modeling a replacement is as simple as modeling the profile of a slice. And if you're lucky, "modeling" might even be a strong word, as an accurate dimensioned photo of a slice might be able to be imported in software and revolved to create the new 3D model. Just a thought. |
Post# 1043726 , Reply# 12   9/3/2019 at 16:21 (1,689 days old) by Vacbear58 (Sutton In Ashfield, East Midlands, UK)   |   | |
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Post# 1043730 , Reply# 13   9/3/2019 at 16:43 (1,689 days old) by brisnat81 (Brisbane Australia)   |   | |
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Hi Dave, Unfortunately its not symetrical, it angles downwards between the two pieces. Cam, I'd be prepared to pay up to $150-$200 AUD for one of these. Cheers Nathan |
Post# 1043743 , Reply# 15   9/3/2019 at 18:28 (1,689 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)   |   | |
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>> Unfortunately its not symetrical, it angles downwards between the two pieces.
I understand that it droops when in use, but is the actual seal itself asymmetrical, and not just sufficiently compliant to accommodate that droop? (And also not just *appearing* to be asymmetrical after having taken a set from being drooped for years in a machine?) From the images in these two linked threads, everything looks rather uniform... www.automaticwasher.org/c... www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/... A somewhat reliable giveaway would be if the seal has an indication mark or stamping that must be aligned when installing. And an even more reliable indication would be text in the service manual indicating an orientation. Note that even if you let the pros reproduce the seal, details like this are important - and could reduce your costs considerably for the design and tooling phases of their efforts. |
Post# 1043745 , Reply# 16   9/3/2019 at 19:08 (1,689 days old) by brisnat81 (Brisbane Australia)   |   | |
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Hi Dave, How it is represented in the parts diagram is the reality. The front of the boot is higher than the back of the boot. Even my brand new boot is that way. The angles down from the factory in preparation for the tub to drop when its full of water. Regards Nathan |
Post# 1043785 , Reply# 18   9/4/2019 at 09:07 (1,688 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)   |   | |
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>> If it was to be totally symmetrical I’d expect the boot to try and tear//split under pressure.
It's really just a standard bellows design, the kind used for all kinds of purposes requiring flexing, offsets, and length changes. The boots on the CV joints of car axles would be a good example, as are bendy straws. Being symmetrical wouldn't be any problem for them, as the compliance and stretch allowances are just a function of the diameter of the bulge and the extra material that comes with it. And you could easily design a seal with more travel allowance than the original if desired. Not at all trying to argue with you guys - just trying to help make sure your reproductions are correct before spending so much money, and not cascading age-related flaws from used parts down to a second generation of copies. I've seen far too many reproduction parts over the years that were made from old or worn originals, inheriting all of those problems in the process, when they could have easily been corrected...... Hopefully you hear good news from the shop working on your new seals! |
Post# 1043801 , Reply# 19   9/4/2019 at 12:31 (1,688 days old) by chestermikeuk (Rainhill *Home of the RailwayTrials* Merseyside,UK)   |   | |
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If the new boot is replicated exactly like the old which has a larger diameter on the inner tub and smaller hole diameter on the front cabinet and two inner pieces that join to both but are wider at the bottom and joined in the middle (to exact sizes) then all will be perfect …
You are correct in that it does have to be fitted a certain way with the large connected area at the bottom, There is a marking or dot on the Original Hoover boots to identify the top position !! Here you can see it fitted and empty.. CLICK HERE TO GO TO chestermikeuk's LINK
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Post# 1043803 , Reply# 20   9/4/2019 at 12:49 (1,688 days old) by chestermikeuk (Rainhill *Home of the RailwayTrials* Merseyside,UK)   |   | |
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And here you can see how it drops and tilts back when full of water ...
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Post# 1043962 , Reply# 27   9/6/2019 at 05:32 (1,686 days old) by gizmo (Victoria, Australia)   |   | |
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So Cam has the black boot arrived yet? |
Post# 1045855 , Reply# 31   9/24/2019 at 13:43 (1,668 days old) by chestermikeuk (Rainhill *Home of the RailwayTrials* Merseyside,UK)   |   | |
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Hi Cam
The interest is here but until a price comes back and we can work out costs and divisions its a muted thread lol. Looking forward to the estimate costs etc and then we can work out how best to proceed !!
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Post# 1045862 , Reply# 32   9/24/2019 at 15:55 (1,668 days old) by Slowspin66 (lincoln uk)   |   | |
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Post# 1046080 , Reply# 34   9/27/2019 at 04:35 (1,665 days old) by chestermikeuk (Rainhill *Home of the RailwayTrials* Merseyside,UK)   |   | |
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Post# 1046095 , Reply# 36   9/27/2019 at 09:18 (1,665 days old) by Slowspin66 (lincoln uk)   |   | |
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Cam about a year ago I was looking for a replacement pump valve for a Bendix LT . I searched high and low to see if I could get one and approached a chap to make me one . It was cost prohibitive£130 ish from what I remember then by chance I looked and found something in China for a couple Of quid and free postage !!!!!! They said it would take two years for delivery !!! In fact it arrived in about 2 weeks and was a brilliant match !!There will away around it there always has to be . Best wishes Darren
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Post# 1046194 , Reply# 37   9/28/2019 at 09:12 (1,664 days old) by keymatic3203 (Cardiff UK)   |   | |
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for the work and effort you've put into this. All the best with what looks like a meticulous restoration. Keep posting your progress. Mathew |
Post# 1046214 , Reply# 39   9/28/2019 at 14:41 (1,664 days old) by Ricky5050 (Durham Britain)   |   | |
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Post# 1046257 , Reply# 40   9/29/2019 at 01:38 (1,663 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)   |   | |
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>> Well unfortunately I’d say it’s bad news, the quote is ridiculously high... £10,000 plus, and that’s just for the tooling quotation and not including production 😟 I know that's not the number you were hoping for, but I can see how it could cost that much. To reproduce that part, someone has to spend time taking the measurements and creating a 3D model, then design a multi-part mold that could work with their injection machines, create the part, and allow it to be released. Then that mold has to be created, which for production shops would mean programming and CNC milling of multiple large blocks of aluminum, with some post processing and fixturing as well. Perhaps also a QC check and some trial runs at producing parts. So you're paying for time and materials, across several specialities. How big is this seal? (approximate diameter when laying flat) It could be that the size drives up the cost as well. |
Post# 1046540 , Reply# 41   10/1/2019 at 14:25 (1,661 days old) by hoover3224 (Coventry )   |   | |
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Here’s some pics to have a nosy at. The wiring was in a right old state, literally was a total deathtrap! Heat shrink has become my best friend! 🤪 Sorry there’s no particular order! Cameron |
Post# 1046574 , Reply# 42   10/2/2019 at 00:23 (1,660 days old) by Slowspin66 (lincoln uk)   |   | |
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What a labour of love this machine has been. Is it the first one you’ve done as you seem to have made brilliant progress quickly What’s left to do apart from the rebuilding ? Looks very complicated .....??
Where are you with the door boots ??? Keep us all posted with your endeavours best wishes Darren |
Post# 1046578 , Reply# 43   10/2/2019 at 01:41 (1,660 days old) by chestermikeuk (Rainhill *Home of the RailwayTrials* Merseyside,UK)   |   | |
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Great work Cameron, a most complicated machine, even down to the springs n rollers engagement. Heatshrink seems to be the order of the day at the moment ha ha..We found these three things have been our best mates in retoring these washers ha ha...
All The Best for the restoration !! |
Post# 1046750 , Reply# 46   10/3/2019 at 15:25 (1,659 days old) by Slowspin66 (lincoln uk)   |   | |
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Post# 1046758 , Reply# 47   10/3/2019 at 17:11 (1,659 days old) by Lorainfurniture (Cleveland )   |   | |
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I just had some vintage stove knobs reproduced a while ago. It was crazy expensive. You would have to charge like $500 each to make it work. You might sell 10-20 in your lifetime. |
Post# 1052379 , Reply# 49   11/26/2019 at 12:38 (1,605 days old) by chestermikeuk (Rainhill *Home of the RailwayTrials* Merseyside,UK)   |   | |
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