Thread Number: 80915  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
My 1985 Maytag A712 Extra Capacity Washer Rebuilt 		[Down to Last]

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Post# 1049057   10/27/2019 at 21:07 (1,634 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

I brought my 712 back in 2010, the only repairs or replacement needed was new brake assembly and radial ball bearing. Everything worked pretty good up to this point. But, out of normal use and wear she began to break down...the radial ball bearing seized all functioning and the seals gave way to corrosion and began to leak terribly. Absolutely intimidated by the thought and necessity of taking apart my Maytag but it had to be done.




Post# 1049479 , Reply# 1   10/30/2019 at 20:38 (1,631 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

the cause of the leakage...destroyed tub bearing seal

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Post# 1049496 , Reply# 2   10/30/2019 at 22:11 (1,631 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

time to take her apart...first disconnect the water inlet injector...than loosen tub top cover clamp screws...needed to use a little WD-40...after removing the clamp carefully keep the rubber gasket in position (measure to the bottom edge from gasket and above towards upper edge)...spacing needs to be correct for reinstalling the cover properly

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Post# 1049500 , Reply# 3   10/30/2019 at 22:59 (1,631 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

the tub nut was completely frozen and refused to give in...soaked it with WD-40 and Liquid Wrench 3 to 4 days...still would not budge...decided to buy a rotary metal cutter

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Post# 1049501 , Reply# 4   10/30/2019 at 23:02 (1,631 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

...learned that this is the best Liquid Wrench Rust Penetrating Oil Spray

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Post# 1049502 , Reply# 5   10/30/2019 at 23:02 (1,631 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)        

eurekastar's profile picture

That is a fairly straightforward repair...just be patient! 
Post# 1049503 , Reply# 6   10/30/2019 at 23:13 (1,631 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

...decided to buy a rotary metal cutter, ordered it but, was damaged during the shipping and handling process---(isn't that weird)...was advised by one of the BEST person in the world Drew (redcarpetdrew) to cut it off...I brought a 5 pc. set of Cold Chisels

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Post# 1049505 , Reply# 7   10/30/2019 at 23:21 (1,631 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

my FIRST TIME repair eurekastar...it'd taken supernatural patience and assistance from above

Post# 1049536 , Reply# 8   10/31/2019 at 08:50 (1,631 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)        

eurekastar's profile picture

The good news is that there is a lot of help here and on youtube!
Post# 1049546 , Reply# 9   10/31/2019 at 11:16 (1,631 days old) by Combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Removing a stuck basket mounting lock ring

combo52's profile picture
The cold chisel you have is all you need, two blows with a hammer and it comes right off.

A new lock ring comes with the seal and mounting stem kit.

Post# 1049552 , Reply# 10   10/31/2019 at 12:11 (1,631 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA)        
I KNEW you could do it!

 redcarpetdrew's profile picture
I am humbled that you reached out for help and that my advice helped you. Like I reminded you. As you post your story of the washer that seemed bound and determined to not wash again, you stuck with it. You didn’t lose faith and tackled everything it threw at you like a 30 year vet of the field! Can’t wait to see the rest of the pics and the video of your born again 712.

RCD

Post# 1049553 , Reply# 11   10/31/2019 at 12:22 (1,631 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

>> ...after removing the clamp carefully keep the rubber gasket in position (measure to the bottom edge from
>> gasket and above towards upper edge)...spacing needs to be correct for reinstalling the cover properly


You might be better off following the Maytag or Repair-Master procedures for setting the top cover spacing when reinstalling. The reason being, when taking apart an old used appliance, you don't necessarily know for sure that whoever had it apart before you re-assembled it correctly. Measuring and duplicating that flawed work propagates (and sometimes exacerbates) any errors they might have made.

The actual procedure for tub top cover alignment is pretty simple - either setting measured wood blocks on the top of the basket and pushing the top cover down on them to achieve a uniform spacing between the inner basket and the bottom of the tub top cover, or reinstalling the top of the machine cabinet and adjusting the top tub cover up or down to have the prescribed uniform clearance against the underside of the top cabinet opening. Either way gets you to the same result, and after doing it, is relatively painless.

Good luck!

Post# 1049658 , Reply# 12   11/1/2019 at 23:16 (1,629 days old) by potatochips ( )        

Ahh the 712. Makes me want to take mine out and use it as a daily driver. Damn Neptune is too good to give up for a while.
Post# 1049708 , Reply# 13   11/2/2019 at 16:22 (1,629 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

Lol, RCD I am truly forever indebted to you and completely humble because of your kindness, patience and like I said before "magical words of encouragement" that help me complete this task step-by-step...let's be clear guys my 712 fought against me "supernaturally" (lghh) and RCD was "heaven sent"...more pics are coming and reborn startup videos as well.

My tub nut needed a lot more to break it loose Combo52...carefully started digging into it with the 5/32" center puncher...cut deeper with the 1/2" cold chisel and broke it free using the 3/4" heavy duty cold chisel

Thanks LowEfficiency, I have a Maytag Repair Master but, didn't think of using it...also used YouTube Maytag washer repair videos that demonstrated the removal and reinstalling the tub covers...once I decided how much space clearance I'd used (3/16") between the underside of the top cabinet cover opening and tub top cover, I manually adjusted it (tub cover tub) until perfect then tighten the clamps

It's cool that you have a 712 as a choice potatochips...it's there at your leisure



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Post# 1049712 , Reply# 14   11/2/2019 at 17:09 (1,629 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

Finally was able to remove the inner washtub...I used multiple cleansing products to clean the parts as I remove them...also used rust-fighting products to address the rusting areas as I go

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Post# 1049721 , Reply# 15   11/2/2019 at 18:51 (1,629 days old) by statomatic (France)        
WD40 is a waste of time & money !

 statomatic's profile picture
WD40 that helps removing a blocked nut is some kind of legend, if it really worked you didn't had to break it.
I've stopped using such thing five years ago, since then I've never broke any nut, bolt, screw... just need a longer wrench for more force, heating/freezing helps a lot too a it breaks the rust.


Post# 1049724 , Reply# 16   11/2/2019 at 19:21 (1,628 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

Now it was time to take out the mounting stem...removing the screw was not a problem but to no avail, it ABSOLUTELY DENIED me any attempt to loosen it...saturated it with WD-40 and Liquid Wrench for several days (worked on it only on the weekends) too tired after getting home from work...the 712 repair had already been taken too long because I needed to order additional parts and tools for the washer repairs... did not want reorder and wait for a rotary metal cutter so used the chisels...making sure to be super careful I started chiseling away using the same method and tools I used to remove the tub nut...the stem was so tough it broken off in parts...upper area first

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Post# 1049725 , Reply# 17   11/2/2019 at 19:42 (1,628 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

Wheww, that was tough, now cutting thru the stem skirt...ahh, it's done what a relief


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Post# 1049726 , Reply# 18   11/2/2019 at 20:07 (1,628 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

Removed outer tub, cleaned inside and out thoroughly, Brillo scrubbed and sanded all rusted areas of the tub...including the tub cover...used clamp position markings

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Post# 1049727 , Reply# 19   11/2/2019 at 20:15 (1,628 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

the tub bearing seal dropped down the transmission shaft post

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Post# 1049728 , Reply# 20   11/2/2019 at 20:31 (1,628 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

outer tub sleeve bearing...


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Post# 1049729 , Reply# 21   11/2/2019 at 20:56 (1,628 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

...even the sleeve bearing refused to cooperate...the chisel was called again to assist in the removal...piece by piece

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Post# 1049730 , Reply# 22   11/2/2019 at 21:04 (1,628 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        



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Post# 1049732 , Reply# 23   11/2/2019 at 21:13 (1,628 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)        

eurekastar's profile picture

Progress!  And the wash basket and outer tub both look great!  I just about lost my Jesus reinstalling the outer tub.  It's not too easy for someone with big hands and arms.
Post# 1049735 , Reply# 24   11/2/2019 at 21:53 (1,628 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

cleaned up inside the cabinet...scrapped off detergent residue grit from leakage on the transmission shaft post...and cleaned up the transmission, shaft and post...pulled it out to install the damper pads

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Post# 1049745 , Reply# 25   11/3/2019 at 01:00 (1,628 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

I used the electrical utility box method to remove the suspension centering springs...you move the tub away from the spring (opposite direction) to stretch it and insert the utility boxes...once in place, pull the tub forward into the spring which will loosen it...then disconnect them from the damper legs one by one
...was pretty lucky where as to not needing to scrap away damper pad remnants...the pads completely dissipated...the damper base (extension) surface was smooth
...used Brillo, Totally AWESOME Grill Oven Cleaner & Degreaser and Lysol POWER Foam cleaner to take care of the hint of glue that remained...lghh, nothing left on the damper base surface...wiped dry, applied adhesive and damper pads...allowed to sit for 12 hours or so...then lubed the pads

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Post# 1049753 , Reply# 26   11/3/2019 at 07:49 (1,628 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Great Progress

 combo52's profile picture

Yes old washers can be fun to take apart, overall the washers tubs etc look to be in pretty good shape, Have you located a replacement transmission yet, the agitator shaft is far too rusted for a long lasting repair in the water seal area.

 

There are still orbital transmissions around and then you can upgrade the washing and rinsing performance by using a Load-Sensor agitator and if you further upgrade by using a 50 cycle motor pulley and belts you will have a pretty decent performing washer.

 

Thanks for all the great step by step pictures of your rebuild this helps others save their vintage machines.

 

John L.

 
Post# 1049777 , Reply# 27   11/3/2019 at 13:32 (1,628 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

I could imagine eurekastar, I had some tight squeeze moments also...what drove me bonkers was the disconnecting and reinstalling the air dome tube...the clamp...I'd replace it with a screw clamp, easier to handle in such a closed in area

Thanks and no problem John L., fortunately, they are in pretty good shape for their age...no I haven't found a replacement...BTW, I'll post a couple of videos using my LoadSensor and a BobLoad
...what would be fantastic is if I found a '50 cycle motor pulley and belts' setup, the "54 OPM intermediate & pitman gears" to interchange with a 63 OPM transmission replacement to upgrade to a faster 756 RPM spin and a 67-68 OPM agitation speed...the 54 OPM transmission is too tall to use with the deep tub 712 washer

I also want to thank Dan (qsd_dan) and Robert (unimatic1140) for their incredible expertise, helpful knowledge and guidance as well...THESE GUYS ARE AWESOME!!!

Post# 1049783 , Reply# 28   11/3/2019 at 14:16 (1,628 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

I made a mistake and reconnected the damper leg frame and centering springs before I setup the outer tub...the springs were pulling on the legs which cause a wider spaced gap between the outer tub bolt and leg frame openings (holes)...they weren't aligned when I tried to reinstall the bolts

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Post# 1049800 , Reply# 29   11/3/2019 at 16:22 (1,628 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

So I removed the centering springs, placed the transmission in position to reattach the brake assembly and new radial ball bearing...but, first I greased up the transmission shaft post and tub bearing sleeve with WHITE LITHIUM GREASE for easier accommodation
...place the new bearing into the brake assembly, apply a little WLG to the damper threaded area (not the threads) then install the brake
...make sure to add some WLG also to the Brake Rotor...it's extra, but will provide smoother operations

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Post# 1049804 , Reply# 30   11/3/2019 at 17:14 (1,628 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Lubricating a DC Maytag

 combo52's profile picture

The top tub bearing should only have turbine oil used, lithium grease is too thick, the brake should have transmission oil in it only.

 

If you don't replace the transmission you are doing a lot of work for a washer that is only going to run a year or so at best till you have water leaking into the top spin bearing or into the transmission.

 

John L.
Post# 1049840 , Reply# 31   11/3/2019 at 22:02 (1,627 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

Forgot to mention, as per RCD, to add a tablespoon of MAYTAG Transmission oil to the brake assembly...quieter operation

Now it's time install the outer tub...once over again to make sure the opening is sanded smooth and clean

...I used WLG to grease the rubber area of the tub bearing seal...slides in easier
...completely flushed with the tub...place the outer tub into a position so you can attach the water level switch air dome
...then set the tub onto the transmission...next sand and wipe the outer tub bolt opening and install the 3 screw bolts/washer/plate, etc
...the SHORT one in the front and the LONGER 2 in the rear of the tub

VERY IMPORTANT: I used a hand socket wrench and a ratchet socket wrench...the hand socket wrench held the screw bolt in place (inside the tub) so the (rubber washer) DOES NOT MOVE as they're tightened...if so, it'll be damaged
...ratchet socket wrench tightens the washers/square plate, etc from the outside
...next I lightly added some ZOOM Spout Turbine Oil to tub bearing...which enhances the spinning cycles



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Post# 1049854 , Reply# 32   11/3/2019 at 23:06 (1,627 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

We're almost there now, it's time to install the new mounting stem and boot seal kit
...I applied some white lithium grease on the bottom edge of the boot seal to help it slide on more easy...hold it along the sides of the seal and turn it from left to right (OSCILLATE) and push down gently until its seated flush with the bottom of tub
...DO NOT TOUCH the top area of the boot seal because if mishandled, you'll destroy the carbon ring inside of it...also, put a little WLG on the top edge of the boot seal and (rubber ring) area on the underside of the stem
...add the agitator drive shaft seal for "full proof seal" protection... you can use a little more grease if desired

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Post# 1049878 , Reply# 33   11/4/2019 at 07:08 (1,627 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Installing a MT Tub Mounting Stem And Water Seal

 combo52's profile picture

I would NOT put grease on the bottom OR top of the water seal, to install the seal to the tub use a little diluted liquid detergent and it will slide right into place.

 

No grease or other lubricants should be used on the carbon ring.

 

Putting a 2nd old style agitator seal under the new lip seal may push the lip seal out of place or the pressure from the bottom may quickly destroy its effectiveness, 

 

Good luck, John L.
Post# 1049889 , Reply# 34   11/4/2019 at 08:26 (1,627 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

swestoyz's profile picture
Harry - I commend your efforts on rehabilitating your Maytag. Sometimes you just need to dive in to get the job done, and having several here on the forum helping along the way isn't a bad thing at all. :)

I'll echo John's warning about adding oil to the stem seal. The newer Teflon style stem seal kit (both the A4298 version through 1996 and triple lip center seal version post August 1996) is not meant to have any lubrication added to "seat" the seal, instead Maytag recommends that the washer be set to spin for about 3 minutes or so after assembly to break in the seal.

While access to the older style seals is limited these days Maytag went back and forth in the 80's on adding oil or not adding oil to the stem seal with a handful of design changes. When they did they recommended using the transmission oil (similar to a 60-70w gear oil) vs. center seal grease (similar to white lithium grease).

Ben

Screen shot below from the Jan 1992 Let's Talk Service)

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Post# 1049917 , Reply# 35   11/4/2019 at 14:20 (1,627 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

Thanks John L. and Ben, I actually followed that bit of information from a Maytag washer Appliance Repair Guy video on YouTube. (Should I remove the grease???) And, John L. please let me know if you come across a possible replacement...I'm looking

Post# 1049922 , Reply# 36   11/4/2019 at 14:54 (1,627 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        
Should I remove the grease???

 swestoyz's profile picture
Yes, at this point if you haven't fully assembled the machine I'd clean the grease off both the stem and boot seal with a few clean cloth towels.

Ben

Post# 1049967 , Reply# 37   11/4/2019 at 20:00 (1,626 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

Hey Ben, thanks again...oh the 712 has been operating going on two weeks or so...I think...I'm just sharing my journey...planning on post videos also

Post# 1049974 , Reply# 38   11/4/2019 at 22:59 (1,626 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA)        

redcarpetdrew's profile picture
When I replace the stem and boot on dc washers I usually install the old style centerpost seal as well. The only time I don’t is when there is the white clip on the top of the orbital trans. So far, I have not had any issues with it and the lip seal on the new stem is potentially iffy by itself. I’m definitely not trying to contradict you John by any means but this has worked for me on many, many repairs. I just don’t totally trust the new lip seal, esp if there is any slight defects to the trans shaft...

RCD

Post# 1049975 , Reply# 39   11/4/2019 at 23:04 (1,626 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA)        

redcarpetdrew's profile picture
The persistence award goes to you, my friend. You haven’t even touched on all the curveballs that washer threw at you or the number of times you almost threw in the towel. You now have skills that many in the field now have no clue of. Victory is yours. Well, that and clean laundry... lol...

RCD

Post# 1049976 , Reply# 40   11/4/2019 at 23:07 (1,626 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

next, I installed the new mounting stem...tighten it COUNTER-CLOCKWISE using the spanner nut wrench tool...not too tight

...when tighten the set screw make sure the head is sticking out at least 1/16" which will indicate it's resting against the transmission agitator drive shaft ridge surface and not inside the "groove" which can cause some damage...if so, loosen the stem and reset it

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Post# 1049979 , Reply# 41   11/5/2019 at 01:08 (1,626 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

...to tighten the set screw you need to use Torx T20 screw drive, hand socket wrench with a T20 bit or 1/8" allen key wrench

place the washtub back into position...centering the tub takes a little time, you need to have patience...the best I accomplished was to set 1/4" of clearance space between the tubs in the front and back areas and at least a 1/2" at the sides...was much more lopsided before I'd taken her apart

...install the clamping tub nut washer then the spanner tub nut, tighten it counter-clockwise with the spanner nut wrench tool until it stops turning

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Post# 1049980 , Reply# 42   11/5/2019 at 01:30 (1,626 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

Lghh, thanks RCD, the victory is ours because you helped me every step of the way...thank you for your persistence...I am capable because of you...I can't wait to be able to build my dream machine washer

Post# 1049984 , Reply# 43   11/5/2019 at 02:11 (1,626 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

...reinstalled the outer tub top cover...just determine how much clearance space you'll have between the underside of the top cabinet cover opening and outer tub cover (3/16" to 1/4")...adjust it manually to your perfection then tighten the clamps
...reattach the water level air dome...clean out thoroughly, lightly lube up inlet opening, reconnect the water injector tube and put the agitator back in place

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Post# 1049988 , Reply# 44   11/5/2019 at 02:33 (1,626 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

my motor carriage had rusted pretty bad so I tried to clean it up a bit...used a product called LA's Totally AWESOME Rust, Lime & Calcium Cleaner and Brillo...(so much stronger than I knew)...it stripped away the golden brass color of the carriage...replaced and added (3) motor springs for that extra power boost
...set the motor back into position connecting all wires
...adjusting the transmission and pump belts TENSION

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Post# 1050027 , Reply# 45   11/5/2019 at 14:27 (1,626 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

started her up...filling up nicely...spray fill works better...she's ALIVE!!!...look at her GO!!!

CLICK HERE TO GO TO scrubflex's LINK
Post# 1050028 , Reply# 46   11/5/2019 at 14:31 (1,626 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

...here's a tub full of water...ahh, the powerful water surging of the Power-fin Agitator

CLICK HERE TO GO TO scrubflex's LINK


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Post# 1050031 , Reply# 47   11/5/2019 at 15:10 (1,626 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

Let's see how she does with the first test load...looks GREAT.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO scrubflex's LINK
Post# 1050032 , Reply# 48   11/5/2019 at 15:37 (1,626 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)        

...how she handles the spinning cycle is the real test...aehh, needed more fine tuning...a little wobbly during the spins


...so I had adjust and tighten the centering springs...(which you need TONS of patience for) but, you will keep working at it until it's (your) perfect

...the outer tub top cover sunk in because I did not tighten the clamps enough

...IT IS DONE

Yayyy!!! my A712 is REBORN Again

CLICK HERE TO GO TO scrubflex's LINK
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