We would need pictures or model no.s to even start quessing.  Pictures?..... of the wiring.

But Yes, one can certainly run some tests to check the unit and the control modules. 

If the clock doesn't have time bake features and is just a clock, then it will have nothing to do with if the oven works.

Pictures needed.

It is very likely the clocks timer switch, it is very easy for someone familiar with this type of electrical repair to bypass the clocks switch, I have done this at least a few hundred times on various brands of ranges, FD and WH were two of the most common brands to have this problem.

John L.

I have that exact same (electric) range in my patio kitchen. But this one is a drop in, not a slide in. I think! It came with the house. I've had to replace one of the surface burners, but I can't say I've ever seen a problem with the oven. However I can't remember actually trying to use the oven either! Mostly I've just stored bakeware in it.

I suppose I could try. I would not be surprised if the clock were the source of any malfunction issues, since it's in a relatively exposed position on the cook top. The one on mine has a cracked plastic window on it. Which probably is not good for the internals, although I haven't used the range much (I did use it for making jam from garden fruit some years ago).

I guess I'll have to unload the bakeware and see if the oven actually works. I have a Kitchenaid Superba slide in gas range with convection oven a neighbor recently gave me. It's now part of the collection, waiting for me to extend the natural gas line to the patio kitchen range area...

OK, here is my Compact 30 range. Yours looks like a drop-in to me. Looks like they changed the clock form and position between the two.

Mine is an RBE-533. I might have a manual somewhere. I'm not sure if you can lift the top on these or not. Might not hurt to try (after shutting off the circuit breaker!). or, you could peek through the nearest range element opening.

PS-the range oven door is really white. The green tint comes from the light transmitted by some translucent corrugated green fiberglass roofing material that forms a 45 degree shed roof on the far side of the enclosed patio where the range is located.

Also, I might have a manual for this somewhere, I just have to track it down!

Oh, and I tested the oven and the broiler. Both seem to work fine; I didn't have to mess with the clock, which does have start and stop times for the oven.

Also you might be able to find a manual on line. Here's the location for the manual for mine: www.manualslib.com/downlo...

Isn't the internet great?

Oh, and I also found the manual for the RG-533D there. It says you can lift the top by grasping the sides and lifting from the front.

www.manualslib.com/downlo...

Dan,

Glad to be of help.

I finally found the manual for my Compact 30 RBE-533. Actually, the house came with two minty manuals for this range. I'll see if I can scan one and upload it to AW.ORG. The one on manuals online is OK but I think I can get a better version... plus I can probably preserve the two color printing (we'll see).

It looks like yours is a more modern version. The top on my range does not appear capable of being lifted off. There's nothing in the manual about that, and when I looked under one of the front burners it looks like it's not designed to be lifted. Bummer, since I think the clock on mine also needs servicing. It's stopped, so it probably needs some lubrication if not more. However the oven still works in manual mode. Don't know about the self-clean function, never tried it. Never used the oven, either. I use the GE P*7 wall oven in the main house kitchen instead, or an Oster french door table top convection oven. Which works well enough for 16" frozen pizza and stuff like fish sticks or breaded chicken tenders.

Have fun! Let us know if you get the clock fixed.

I notice the link I provided for the manual for the RBE-533 doesn't work. Probably because I selected the download link instead of the main manual page. Here's a link that should work better:

www.manualslib.com/manual...

Maybe a broken wire somewhere?

We already knew it was not the clock as you had properly bypassed the clock switch, Did the appliance tech find the real problem ?

If not I hope you did not have to pay a service call.

At this point it is either a bad wire connection or bad thermostat.

I have a new unused thermostat for one of these ranges if you find you want to fix it and new it.

These ranges are not easy to replace as there are almost no drop-in ranges made any longer that will just drop in, you will end up removing what ever is below the range and cutting the counter-top to install most new slide-in ranges.

John L.

I can understand having to cut the cabinetry under the drop-in so a new slide in can fit.

However I don't understand why the countertop would need to be cut, unless the slide-in is wider than the cutout.

I may have to do some measurements. I have a Modern Maid gas drop-in range I bought about 10 years ago, and has been waiting in the wings for the gas line to be extended. My  neighbor recently gave me a KA Superba slide in, which is probably a better range than the Modern Maid. However I would not want to cut the counter tops if I can avoid it.

Have tape measure, will check.

It's all moot until the gas line gets extended, anyway. I rarely cook in the patio kitchen anyway... I just prefer gas.

Dang it.

I have accumulated over the years three used gas ranges to replace this Frigidaire drop in electric Compact 30.

I can't believe I never took any measurements before. Duh.

It turns out none of them will fit without some serious mods to the counter. The problem isn't the width. It's that the cut out for the current drop-in is much more shallow than the others. Even the Modern Maid drop in gas range looks too deep, front to back, to fit into the current countertop cutout. It's OK width-wise, I think, and might be ok height-wise. Since it's a drop in that's not a big deal AFAIK. But the 28 inches of depth vs. the 23 inches of the current counter cutout is just too damn much IMHO.

Oh, what the hell. It's unlikely I'm ever going to be able to find a gas drop-in range that will fit the current cutout  perfectly. And since I rarely use the range to begin with, it's no dent in my lifestyle. It would be nice to have a gas convection oven, but not a requirement either.

I'll have to ponder the inventory and needs some more. There might be a slew of two used slide-in and one used drop-in gas ranges popping up for grabs (sale) depending on my final decision.

Oh, and the clock on my Compact 30 is dead. Looks like I'll be putting what energy I have towards the patio kitchen cooking area into fixing that clock. If I can figure out how to get at it (the top looks like it's bolted down... but it might just be a support strut under it that I can unscrew and the top will lift so I can get at the clock from below. I vaguely recall being able to lift the top years ago, but don't remember how.

It's not that I couldn't cut the back of the cut-out on the counter top to be able to squeeze in one of the gas ranges. It's just that the current fit is so neat and exact I hate to modify it. 

Such fun!

LOL.

I'm wondering if there is a fusible link in your range, and that has blown or is somehow disconnected. If blown, one would need to find out why. The other possibility is that both the baking and broiling elements are done. An electrician should be able to determine that fairly quickly with a voltmeter.