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Thread Number: 81212
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
1974 Lady Kenmore washer rebuild |
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Post# 1052370 11/26/2019 at 11:42 (1,605 days old) by jons1077  (Vancouver, Washington, USA) |
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With the dryer completed and running smoothly, it’s time to tackle the matching washer. I’ll do my best to take pictures as I go.
First, I went ahead and removed the lid and hinges. The gray spacer pads under the hinges always seem to turn to putty so I’ll be replacing those. Then, we will finally get to pop the top and see what we’re dealing with, especially in the dispenser department. I can already see that it will need a good cleansing.
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Post# 1052371 , Reply# 1 11/26/2019 at 11:50 (1,605 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA) |
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Now to open the top
Use a putty knife to depress the spring retainers on each corner and pop the top. As suspected, probably hasn’t been opened since it was built 45 years ago so plenty of nastiness.
Triple dispenser is attached to the cabinet by three screws and has two hoses attached, one to the pump which sends recirculating wash/rinse water to the soap and softener dispensers and the other is a simple hose attached to the bleach dispenser directly into the out tub. The solenoids are basic spring-loaded rubber plungers that, when activated, allow water to flow into the softener chamber or allow bleach out and into the outer tub. She will get a deep clean. Thankfully, the dispenser came out nice and clean. Sending linty wash water through small holes means lots of build up and clogging. This dispenser should be quite vigorous now. | ||
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Post# 1052373 , Reply# 2 11/26/2019 at 12:00 (1,605 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA) |
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Agitator removal
Working our way down, the shroud will need to be removed which means doing a couple of things. The snubber isn’t looking so hot so it’ll just get removed and replaced with a new one. Detach the water inlet hose and the three retaining springs and the shroud very easily is removed. She needs a bath too so we will just set that one aside for now.
On to the scary parts, removing that agitator presumably for the first time in 45 years. Just one item of contention to start with is the engineer who thought a large flat head screw would be a good idea for agitator retention. Lordy that thing was a beast to remove! I had to attach a flat head bit to vice grips and work it back and forth carefully so I wouldn’t strip my contact point. Finally go it going and out safely without gouging myself. Probably will be using a hex screw instead next time. Much easier to ratchet these things out. The agitator is absolutely frozen! (This is why it takes a week or two to rebuild these things. It’s always one thing after another!) For this, I had to spray penetrating oil in the screw threads and slip my handy IV pressure bags under the agitator skirt. Even the inflated bags weren’t making any progress. I had to switch to a combo of pressure bags and pour boiling water over the agitator. After about an hour or so of this, she finally popped up. YAY! | ||
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Post# 1052375 , Reply# 3 11/26/2019 at 12:05 (1,605 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA) |
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Wash basket removal
Since I’m on a roll, let’s go for the wash basket next. Any manual will simply tell you to remove the spanner nut and lift the basket out. Umm...right. Much to my surprise, the spanner nut came off rather easily giving me false hope for the wash basket simply lifting off the drive block. Haha! This bitch was absolutely frozen. Pushing, pulling, rocking, oil, hot water, torching and NOTHING was going to get this basket out.
I decided to soak it with more penetrating oil over night and revisit this issue in the morning. Good thing I did. This morning, a few more hard rocks back and forth and the basket finally came free! Whew! That was hard work! | ||
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Post# 1052376 , Reply# 4 11/26/2019 at 12:12 (1,605 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA) |
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Drive block removal, outer tub inspection
Basket is out and drive block needs to be lifted off the spin tube. I didn’t take a picture of this but easiest way for me to remove the block was to lay the spanner wrench over the block and attach the spanner nut over that. While holding the wrench up against the nut, pound upwards on the spanner wrench bringing the block up and finally off the spin tube.
The spanner nut looks good and the drive block ain’t too bad either but you can definitely see the areas where the basket was frozen to it. I’ll swing by the local appliance dealer and see if I can snag a new block. These are very common and were used on DD models as well. Outer tub looks ok. No serious rust. Needs a good cleaning. The water that was poured in last night is all still there with no leaks onto the floor. Hopefully that means my baseplate is fairly rust-free. Time for a break and some coffee. Will soak up the water and come back in a bit to remove the outer tub. More to come... | ||
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Post# 1052377 , Reply# 5 11/26/2019 at 12:16 (1,605 days old) by extmaxspin (Saginaw MI) |
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Awesome find and save. | ||
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Post# 1052384 , Reply# 6 11/26/2019 at 15:48 (1,605 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA) |
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Outer tub removal
Word to the wise...none of this deep dive seems to be getting any easier. The outer tub removal proved that. Holy shiitake!
Outer tub needs to be removed so this involves a few things. First, disconnect the tubing from the air dome that drives the water level pressure switch. It’s simple. Twist and pull. Then we need to disconnect the side mounted self-cleaning lint filter. This is attached to the outer tub with a spanner nut. I used the tips of my vise grip needle nose pliers and loosen and remove. Remove the 4 bolts in the base of the tub and simply lift out! (Anyone who’s done this should be laughing out loud about now.) This thing wouldn’t budge! The center post built up so much junk and corrosion that it melded with the outer tub seal. I had to cut and pry off the top of the seal and shimmy the tub for a long time until it finally broke free. Yes, my back is sore now. Check out the old seal compared to a new one. Nasty! Next, I’ll be laying the machine down onto its front side with the rear facing up. I can’t remember what the sexual position is called but basically face down, ass up. The next fun part will be removing the transmission and pump assembly. Easy right? I doubt that! | ||
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Post# 1052390 , Reply# 7 11/26/2019 at 16:58 (1,605 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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| Post# 1052405 , Reply# 8 11/26/2019 at 18:48 (1,605 days old) by felix (São Paulo - Brazil) | ||
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| Post# 1052406 , Reply# 9 11/26/2019 at 18:55 (1,605 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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Post# 1052412 , Reply# 10 11/26/2019 at 21:54 (1,605 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA) |
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Transmission and pump assembly removal
For once in this process I was wrong, removing this transmission was actually very easy and it typically is not.
First, gotta start disconnecting hoses. Hoses connecting the pump are removed as well as hoses to the trap. The pump is held on by two bolts which are removed. I went ahead and added a few drops of oil to the pump bearing since I had it out. Otherwise, it looks just fine. Disconnect wires from the detergent dispenser solenoid and get that hose out of the way. Also disconnect the wires connected to the wigwag (red on left, yellow on right). Now, there are a few stabilizer brackets attached to the gear case that will need to be removed. Once those are out, there are three large bolts that are driven directly through the gear case housing and attach directly to the baseplate. Once these are out, the transmission is free and ready to be pulled out. Usually corrosion forming on the spin tube makes this a bit of a task and very difficult to pull it out past the bearings. I lucked out big time and, much to my amazement, it came out with ease. | ||
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Post# 1052413 , Reply# 11 11/26/2019 at 21:56 (1,605 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA) |
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Motor removal
Two nuts hold the motor to the baseplate and it’s as simple as that. One of the wires broke as it was extremely brittle so I’ll do some repair on that. No big deal.
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Post# 1052414 , Reply# 12 11/26/2019 at 22:04 (1,605 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA) |
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Transferring over to a new gear case
The older transmission appears to be in decent shape but I suspect it’s malfunctioning and not engaging fully into agitation may be due to debris and low oil inside the case. I’ll get into that later when I rebuild the transmission. For now, I have a replacement transmission that I’ll simply move components over to as well as adding a new spin tube. The old spin tube is actually in excellent condition but I’m going all the way with this machine.
The old spin tube and break assembly amazingly lifted right off the old gear case with ease. I’ll break that down and attach the break assembly to the new spin tube. The wigwag, can bars and pulley wheel will be removed and placed on the new case as well. | ||
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Post# 1052415 , Reply# 13 11/26/2019 at 22:12 (1,605 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA) |
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Break assembly
Let’s move the break assembly to the new spin tube. It’s pretty simple. There a screw that holds a hub over the 4 springs. Use an Allan wrench to get that off. When reinstalling, I had to use a c-clamp to depress those springs so I could line up the holes of the tube and hub and get that screw back in. Once this was all back together, drop the t-bearing (white plastic thing) onto the agitator shaft and then follow it with the spin tube/break assembly. Just before it’s all the way on, drop some oil in the top.
I noticed on this new transmission case there is a slight difference. Newer cases used a small plastic retainer clip on the break yoke and the ‘74 model used a spring and pin retainer. That won’t work on the new one so will have to search for a plastic retainer to install. This post was last edited 11/27/2019 at 03:19 | ||
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Post# 1052417 , Reply# 14 11/26/2019 at 22:17 (1,605 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA) |
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Oops! I went a little out of order.
Before installing the break assembly, etc. you need to install the wigwag and come bars. This can be a bit challenging as one of the rods has to be lifted up (I had to grip it with vise grips) and lift it enough
So I could slide in the cam bar. Reattach the bow tie retainer so your cam bars stay quiet. A little lube and grease and we’re good to go
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Post# 1052418 , Reply# 15 11/26/2019 at 22:52 (1,605 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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The motor mounting grommets are QuietPak style. Would like to see some detail on the pulley (removed?). From where can belt-drive spin tubes, agitator shafts/tranny seals and such be sourced? I have an LA7800XP that I'd like to refurb, although there may be aspects of it that are more far-gone than this LK. | ||
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Post# 1052428 , Reply# 16 11/27/2019 at 03:28 (1,605 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA) |
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Dadoes
I’ve been able to find most of these parts online on eBay. Just need to be clear about part numbers for some of the items like spin tubes as they come in three different lengths (standard, extra large and super capacity). The ‘64 Kenmore will need a shorter spin tube I believe. I lucked out and have perfect bearings in the Lady but the older machine will need bearings removed and replaced.
This washer is the quiet pack with the skinny belt. As far as the pulley, a hole in the side of the wheel’s center is aligned with a hole in the shaft which are held firmly with a screw using an Allan wrench. It should just slide on and off easily. I had to coax it off by gently wrapping it with a mallet. | ||
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Post# 1052438 , Reply# 17 11/27/2019 at 07:35 (1,604 days old) by DaveAMKrayoGuy (Oak Park, MI) |
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Post# 1052507 , Reply# 18 11/27/2019 at 21:16 (1,604 days old) by bradfordwhite (central U.S.) |
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 Wow, you are doing a great job from what I've seen. I've rebuilt a few of these myself.
Yours looks to be in very good condition considering the age.
The 1st LK washer like this I had was a 1972 and was used in a closet with the dryer UNVENTED for 10 years. Unfortunately, the washer was a rust bucket. Yours looks so clean.
The dispenser looks to be in very good condition, too. Those have been known to get brittle and break because of the exposure to bleach, unfortunately.
About the only recommendation I can make to help you is with regard to laying it on the side.
1. always put a blanket or other soft and cushy item on the floor and make sure there are no screws down that could scratch the cabinet. 2. make yourself (2) 18"x 24" x 1/2" plywood blocks to slide into the machine BEFORE laying it down. One on the front and the other on the side you're going to lay it on. The block will prevent the main plate from laying on the inside of the machine and denting it. Which will look really bad and obvious when your done.
Can't wait to see it complete. It's coming along great !
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Post# 1052509 , Reply# 19 11/27/2019 at 21:34 (1,604 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Rebuilding The 1974 LKM Washer Wow Jon you are making great progress, This washer should be up and running in no time.
Your 64 KM 70 washer will use the same agitator shaft as this KM does, and in fact since the agitator shaft and spin tube are in such good shape from the LKM you may consider reusing these parts on it, with new top oil seals the 64 KM will run as good as new with these parts.
The trick to removing a stuck wash basket in less than 30 seconds is to remove the lock ring, spray a little penetrating oil on the drive block and then STAND in the basket and just rock your weight from side to side about twice and the basket will loosen in an instant, I have never had this fail.
When my Brother Jeff and I were the consultants on the Time-Life do-it-yourself books back in the 80s I was watching these writers trying to remove wash basket from a WP washer with no luck. So I stepped up stood in the washer and with my 130 pounds of weight in two quick side to side steps the basket immediately loosened from the drive block. Everyone was amazed how easily the basket came loose but they refused to put this removal technique in the book as they thought someone might fall out of their washer.
I am sure that I have done this at least a hundred times.
John L. | ||
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Post# 1052511 , Reply# 20 11/27/2019 at 21:50 (1,604 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA) |
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While we wait for a part, let’s do some seals
Thanks for all the comments and encouragement! Bradfordwhite, you can’t really see in the photo but I have a couple of foam mats laying under the front of the machine that are soft and roughly 3/4 inch thick. I’ll be sure to be more careful with the baseplate like you mentioned. So far no dents or scratches.
Since I had to order a retainer clip for the clutch, that leaves plenty of time to take care of odds and ends. Importantly is replacing the upper and lower seals inside the center post. Since the spin tube came out absolutely unscathed, the bearings are good and will remain. To remove the seals, I used a heavy duty pick with a pretty sharp point. Tap it between the inside of the center post and the seal so it causes the metal band inside the seal to deform. Then we can grab the old seal and pull it out. I wiped out some of the older oil and lubricated with fresh 3:1 oil as well as oil the outer edge of the new seals so they will install more easily. I used a similar diameter socket and a mallet to drive the new seals in. One seal in the bottom and a couple of seals in the top. The bearings are so pretty! | ||
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Post# 1052513 , Reply# 21 11/27/2019 at 21:57 (1,604 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA) |
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Let’s do some cleaning
John, I’m really excited to have this machine so close to being ready to put back together. I think she’s going to purr like a kitten! I was hoping the spin tube out of this machine would work in the ‘64. I buffed it out a little bit and it was nearly difficult to tell the new one from the used one. I imagine I’ll start on that machine pretty soon after finishing this one. I’m on a roll!
So, now for the boring stuff. Water in the Vancouver, Washington area is notoriously hard. Not like Phoenix but things can get pretty gritty and this machine shows some evidence of that. Clearly, iron has left some staining as well as some crystallized calcium, etc. Add to that the usual 45 years of gunk. The shroud got a good scrubbing and looks much better. The rubber gasket for the shroud washed up nicely as well. | ||
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Post# 1052514 , Reply# 22 11/27/2019 at 22:10 (1,604 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA) |
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Rust proofing and sealing
I’m like Jason (surgilator68) on this one. There was so much petrified powder on the bottom of the outer tub even a high speed drill with a wire brush couldn’t get it off! Arm & Hammer and cold washes maybe? Anyways, we do the best we can.
After cleaning and cleaning, I wiped everything down again to free it of dust and debris so we could really get a good look and find any potential problem areas. Notably, there is a decent amount of corrosion where the outer tub meets the large rubber gasket connecting the trap. There was even a small hole. Sanded these areas down really well and applied naval jelly a couple of times and allowed it to set. Naval jelly was also applied to other rusty areas like a couple of small spots in the wash basket and all the rusty areas on the center post. After that’s all cleaned up, POR-15 is applied for a couple of coats. This paint typically drives over several hours so tomorrow it should be good enough to install the outer tub back onto the baseplate. I noticed the one time I ran the machine there was quite a bit of water leaking. A couple of areas of suspicion are the bleach hose and the airgap. For these I applied blue silicon gasket maker and will allow to set for a day or so. No way water will get outta there now. I’ll use this same sealant for the center post seal as well as the large seal connecting the trap. | ||
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Post# 1052517 , Reply# 23 11/27/2019 at 22:22 (1,604 days old) by bradfordwhite (central U.S.) |
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sigh of relief "...I have a couple of foam mats laying under the front of the machine that are soft and roughly 3/4 inch thick. I’ll be sure to be more careful with the baseplate like you mentioned. So far no dents or scratches."
I was worried for you.
Finding a used dishwasher that uses a center post for powering the upper rack wash arm, like GE, is a great thing to have to wash parts, or at least soften stuck on gunk.
Especially useful if you connect it to a sink faucet where you can control the water temperature. Center post because you'll want to remove the upper rack so tall stuff will fit inside.
There are somethings that the dishwasher can do that prove tedious like washing parts with lots of little grooves and fine close details like filters.
OK, I'll shut-up now. This is your show and you're doing great.
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Post# 1052612 , Reply# 24 11/28/2019 at 13:56 (1,603 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA) |
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While we wait...more cleaning
With the help of my lovely and handsome assistants, we took some BarKeepers Friend and scrubbed down the wash basket. Beautiful and shiny white porcelain. So elegant!
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Post# 1052613 , Reply# 25 11/28/2019 at 14:06 (1,603 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA) |
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Outer tub installation
Time to start putting her back together. Still need the retainer for the yoke so we can at least assemble the machine but leave some give in the transmission so I can snap that clip in. Then tighten it all down and give it a whirl.
The POR-15 is nice and dry as well as the blue gasket sealant. That stuff is amazing, by the way. It dries to a nice flexible rubbery texture. Now it’s time to place the large outer tub drain gasket back in place. I will be using sealant in this as well since I noticed quite a bit of corrosion and some breakdown. Since I have no intentions of removing this outer tub again anytime soon, I really want to waterproof it so I’ll put sealant over the gasket as well so there’s no way water will leak out and between the tub and the seal The outer tub will get a new center post seal. (We has to destroy the old one in order to get the tub out.) I caused a little damage to the lip of the outer tub where it retains the seal so I’ll rub sealant all around that as well. Then, carefully lower the outer tub down over the center post while lining up all the holes. Yes, I put a little sealant under the rubber gasket for the screws too. I hate leaks! | ||
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Post# 1052614 , Reply# 26 11/28/2019 at 14:19 (1,603 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA) |
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Motor and transmission installation
Now that I’ve added some heft to the machine, I took the very good advise and placed a foam pad inside the front panel to protect from dents before laying the machine back in its front.
Motor installation is pretty self-explanatory EXCEPT one of the bolts MUST be in ok sac e prior to outer tub installation. Since I knew I would screw it up I decided to leave that bolt in place and never remove it. That way I can’t forget it. Transmission is next to install. It’s easier to go ahead and have the new belt already looped within the transmission prior to installation. You have to remove the retaining spring on the yoke and place the belt within. WigWag faces towards the rear. I’ll install the bolts and braces but leave them loose since I’ll need to install the missing retainer when it arrives. Notice the detergent dispenser solenoid valve attaches to that middle brace. Lastly. Install the pump, trap and connect all of the hoses. The side-mount lint filter gets reattached to the outer tub as well. I decided not to use sealant on that since it has a tight spanner nut and a good seal. If it leaks then I’ll apply sealant. (It shouldn’t.) | ||
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Post# 1052616 , Reply# 27 11/28/2019 at 14:26 (1,603 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA) |
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Almost there!
Placed back upright, we can get the new basket spin block installed and place the basket. Since the transmission is sitting lower for a reason, I won’t tighten the spanner nut right now.
Install the shroud and 4 retainer clips (3 long and 1 short.) I noticed when was breaking the machine down I only had three retainer springs. I’m missing the short one that hangs out in the front. Reconnect the inlet hose to the fill flume. Install a brand new snubber. Now we can get the dispensers installed. Three screws attach to the cabinet to hold this in place. Attach hoses and then screws. Attach solenoid wires. I removed the foam seal from under the top and cleaned it up. It looks good so I will reuse it and just glue it in place. I tested a couple of small rust spot with naval jelly prior to replacing it. | ||
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Post# 1052617 , Reply# 28 11/28/2019 at 14:32 (1,603 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA) |
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Final touches
The lid could use a bath so it got a hot soapy bath. I’ve got new hinges and rubber guards. I’ll get some new rubber bumpers as well even though these aren’t terrible. To install, Install the rear hinge to the lid first and then thread it through the grommet. Then install the front hinge. There is a soft black bumper that goes on the end of the back hinge to soften the impact of opening the lid.
The PentaSwirl gets a soapy bath as well. Will not install the agitator until l can tighten the transmission into place. | ||
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Post# 1052618 , Reply# 29 11/28/2019 at 14:34 (1,603 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA) |
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She’s more patient than I am
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| Post# 1052784 , Reply# 30 11/30/2019 at 16:40 (1,601 days old) by pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada) | ||
jon1077 | ||
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Post# 1052787 , Reply# 31 11/30/2019 at 16:59 (1,601 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA) |
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Absolutely! | ||
| Post# 1052788 , Reply# 32 11/30/2019 at 17:05 (1,601 days old) by chaskelljr2 (Washington, D. C.) | ||
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Fully Restored 1974-75 Lady Kenmore Washer... From restoration to revival, this “Lady” is ready to get to work. I also want this “Lady” run a FULL cycle.... from wash fill to final spin. We all want to see this fully newly restored Kenmore can do. —Charles— | ||
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Post# 1053236 , Reply# 33 12/5/2019 at 15:47 (1,596 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA) |
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Finally!
Retainer clip arrived and I just had to give it a go. Soooo quiet and agitation is so smooth. Absolutely no leaks! That’s a first for me. I nabbed a short video on my phone. Will see if I can get it loaded on YouTube and post the link. I’m so excited!
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| Post# 1053241 , Reply# 34 12/5/2019 at 16:38 (1,596 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas) | ||
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Post# 1053242 , Reply# 35 12/5/2019 at 16:47 (1,596 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA) |
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Videos | ||
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Post# 1053243 , Reply# 36 12/5/2019 at 16:48 (1,596 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA) |
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Rinse spin | ||
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Post# 1053244 , Reply# 37 12/5/2019 at 16:49 (1,596 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA) |
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Rinse | ||
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Post# 1053247 , Reply# 38 12/5/2019 at 17:10 (1,596 days old) by bradfordwhite (central U.S.) |
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At the 0:50 minute mark on the first video, we hear the Lady Kenmore softly singing. Ahhh-h-h-h..
You might consider stringing together some footage and making some ASMR videos that get lots of views for you to make money off of. I recently found there are numerous videos where people have recorded the sound of the various appliances and made ASMR vids, and people have been ....listening or watching? Amazing. But who can blame them? lol . . This video is weird because it's 10 hours, it's of a picture of a Whirlpool duet pair, but the sounds are of what appears to be a cheap toploading White Westinghouse pair. But over 170K views. That can be monetized. CLICK HERE TO GO TO bradfordwhite's LINK
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Post# 1053277 , Reply# 39 12/5/2019 at 20:41 (1,596 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!) |
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Post# 1053286 , Reply# 40 12/5/2019 at 22:56 (1,596 days old) by bobbins (Victoria, BC, Canada) |
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Lint filter type? I am curious what type of lint filter this model of washer has? I am wondering if this model came with a brush - similar to a Whilrpool - (looking at the base, I don't see a self cleaning filter and it appears there is no maze lint filter) | ||
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Post# 1053289 , Reply# 41 12/6/2019 at 00:12 (1,596 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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Post# 1053299 , Reply# 42 12/6/2019 at 05:55 (1,595 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands) |
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| Post# 1053314 , Reply# 43 12/6/2019 at 09:36 (1,595 days old) by chaskelljr2 (Washington, D. C.) | ||
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1974-75 Lady Kenmore Restored GREAT JOB JONS1077!!! 👍🏾👍🏾 She purrs like a kitten now.... —Charles— | ||
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Post# 1053318 , Reply# 44 12/6/2019 at 10:33 (1,595 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA) |
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Post# 1053372 , Reply# 45 12/6/2019 at 18:57 (1,595 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA) |
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Their new throne
Finally inside where they look so much happier and appropriate!
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| Post# 1053385 , Reply# 46 12/6/2019 at 20:05 (1,595 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas) | ||
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Post# 1053390 , Reply# 47 12/6/2019 at 21:39 (1,595 days old) by DaveAMKrayoGuy (Oak Park, MI) |
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Post# 1053400 , Reply# 49 12/7/2019 at 01:45 (1,595 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA) |
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Thank you!
I have to admit I was never a huge Kenmore fan but this set is a dream! I’m glad I took the chance and called the realtor who listed the home for sale that they were located in. I learned so much about these machines and how they work. We have such great resource in this club that virtually anyone can do this. The results are so satisfying. I wanted to share the experience and make it a reference for others in their endeavors. The kind words and support are so very appreciated!
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