Thread Number: 81268
/ Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
LG Front-Load Washer Rant |
[Down to Last] |
|
Post# 1052870 , Reply# 1   12/1/2019 at 16:36 (1,606 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
11    
Designated Normal cycle is what's used for testing energy ratings and EnergyStar qualification so is the most restricted on both water usage and temperature. Not unusual that a given temperature setting results in different effective temps on different cycles. Less water calls for longer wash time. Energy efficiency is based on less water (and less heated water), not on longer operational times. Motor designs are different than older machines, pull less power when running. Detergent pods are evil. :-) Cold-water washing is evil. :-) |
Post# 1053022 , Reply# 3   12/3/2019 at 11:13 (1,604 days old) by kb0nes (Burnsville, MN)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
7    
|
Post# 1053065 , Reply# 4   12/3/2019 at 18:54 (1,604 days old) by littlegreeny (Milwaukee, WI)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
3    
|
Post# 1053095 , Reply# 5   12/3/2019 at 20:50 (1,604 days old) by murando531 (Augusta, Georgia - US)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
4    
Being that I'm not the biggest LG or Samsung fan, there are a few points here that I'd like to expand on that are either characteristics of any front-load washer brand.
First, the water use. Front loaders of the past 10+ years have become much more water efficient than they were in the old days of sloshy, up to the window water levels. The load of clothes only needs to be soggy and saturated, but not actually submerged in water. The act of the clothes being rolled and lifted and dropped creates the same effect as if you take a hand cloth, run it under water just until it's dripping, and then dip it down in a small puddle of water in the sink and lift it up and squeeze it out, over and over. There's more than enough water in use for the way the machine is designed, and any more would cause the clothes to instead float and ride over the baffles of the drum rather than be picked up and tumbled. And trust me, if you were to pause the machine after the water has finished filling and topping off, if you pull the clothes from the back of the drum, there will be more than a puddle of water underneath it all. Second, the boot and dispensers. I've snapped a quick picture of the seal of my Whirlpool WFW92 washer. This is with deep cleaning the machine about a month ago, and with normal use since. Deep cleaning for me means getting a cloth, wrung out damp, with a little cleaner, like Mr.Clean all-purpose or something, and wiping out the insides of the seals along with the door itself. Basically everywhere you can touch, wipe it down. The dispenser cavity should also be wiped out regularly, and usually I'll just take the dispenser drawer itself to the kitchen sink and wash it out with a toothbrush and soap. Then, although it hasn't really been necessary because I regularly wash towels and whites in hot water, I may run the machine's Clean cycle, either with a little splash of bleach, or with an affresh tablet. The machine keeps itself remarkably clean though. The best way to keep any mold or mildew off the dispenser entirely is just pull it out when no more laundry needs to be done, and empty the water and let it sit out and dry by a bathroom sink or something. Or even just on a towel on the machine, whatever works best. As for the detergent left in the dispenser, that does seem to be a machine specific thing. It just depends on the depth of the cups and how the spray jets are designed. Mine flushes out clean 99% of the time, although some thicker detergents like Tide Ultra Stain Release may leave a little blue here and there. You could always try diluting the detergent with water to the max line the same as should be done with the fabric softener dispenser. Another helpful thing may be to reduce the dosage itself. My rule of thumb is to look at the size of the load in the drum and also the overall soil of the clothes. For example, the drum 3/4 full but with clothes that aren't really dirty but just normal, such as no workout clothes, for me would be half of the dose of the 3/4 line in the cup, so line 2 or so. If they actually were dirty and smelly, however, I'd stick with the 3/4 dosage. Some may have different advice, but that's always worked for me to leave the load clean and smelling nice while not having residues in the clothes or on the machine. ALSO, and this is for any machine, Please use fabric softener sparingly. Softener is fantastic to use but in *very* small amounts. For a full-to-the-top load of clothes, I'll use at most Line 1 on the Downy cap. And for towels, barely enough to cover the bottom of the cap itself. Softener can sort of be like rinse aid in a dishwasher, it'll help any remaining detergent to break free and rinse away, as well as leaving a touch of scent and help with dryer static, but using the "recommended" dose on the bottle will leave your clothes feeling greasy, as well as your machine, which creates a breeding ground for the very mold and mildew that some people hate front loaders for. I've seen MANY a full filling top loader with mold just as bad behind the drum because of too much fabric softener. *I don't remember the image upload quality being so bad here on AW. Maybe it's because I haven't renewed my membership but there's no individual upload button anymore either... |
Post# 1053151 , Reply# 7   12/4/2019 at 14:08 (1,603 days old) by vacerator (Macomb, Michigan)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
1    
has jet holes in the fins as well. I find that it spins large loads dry enough on medium speed. using my dryers eco normal cycle of 38 minutes, laundry is dry. |