Thread Number: 81775
/ Tag: Refrigerators
Repairing plastic refrigerator liners |
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Post# 1057841   1/16/2020 at 21:31 (1,532 days old) by sarahperdue (Alabama)   |   | |
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Hi Folks,
I've been experimenting with plastic "welding" to repair cracks in the interior of my GE wall fridge. I've cut out pieces from a donor and welded them into the gap with a flat soldering iron. It's better than a gaping hole, but not perfect...at least not yet. I melted then sanded with 150, 220, 400 and 1,000 grit sandpaper. Pictures below. Who's repaired a liner and how did you do it? Thanks, Sarah |
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Post# 1057854 , Reply# 1   1/16/2020 at 23:48 (1,532 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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Post# 1057971 , Reply# 2   1/17/2020 at 20:30 (1,531 days old) by sarahperdue (Alabama)   |   | |
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Post# 1057989 , Reply# 3   1/18/2020 at 00:01 (1,531 days old) by Northwesty (Renton, WA)   |   | |
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looks good let us know how it holds up. I have not had much luck with the insides of fridges. |
Post# 1057995 , Reply# 4   1/18/2020 at 02:45 (1,531 days old) by SudsMaster (SF Bay Area, California)   |   | |
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Do you know what kind of plastic it is?
If you do, you could get some plastic welding of the same thing to fill in any gaps, if any. Harbor Freight sells a variety of plastic welding kits. www.harborfreight.com/pla... www.harborfreight.com/plastic-we... www.harborfreight.com/80-watt-ir... |
Post# 1058019 , Reply# 5   1/18/2020 at 09:04 (1,530 days old) by sarahperdue (Alabama)   |   | |
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Post# 1058022 , Reply# 6   1/18/2020 at 09:42 (1,530 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)   |   | |
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Years ago, in the Appliance Service News newspaper there was a person who wrote in on a similar subject. What he did was find plastic pieces a similar color, cut them into small pieces, and put those pieces in a jar with lacquer thinner in it. After a few hours, the plastic had softened, and was like a putty. Put some of that putty into the crack, smooth it out, and let it dry. The lacquer thinner would evaporate, and leave a hard plastic surface. I've tried it on a cracked door liner, worked OK. FWIW |
Post# 1058971 , Reply# 7   1/27/2020 at 10:05 (1,521 days old) by sarahperdue (Alabama)   |   | |
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Post# 1058985 , Reply# 8   1/27/2020 at 12:28 (1,521 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Conn)   |   | |
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In the late 70's when I was racing AFX cars at the local hobby shop I was always ripping the bodies off the chassis when I crashed my cars were so fast. I found that by taking any AFX junk body and cutting pieces of it and putting them in a jar of Testors model cement that it made it that much stronger a bond when gluing the posts back on that held the motor assy. It had the brush in cap so I just brushed it on and let it set. It was much thicker than the clear acetone that came in the bottle and held well.
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Post# 1059031 , Reply# 9   1/27/2020 at 23:34 (1,521 days old) by Spacedogb (Lafayette, LA)   |   | |
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Any way you could have the whole door 3D printed? Just an idea I had the NLA door panels for my Mazda RX8 3D printed and they color matched factory color and texture |
Post# 1059778 , Reply# 12   2/6/2020 at 12:54 (1,511 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)   |   | |
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>> 3D printing - Any way you could have the whole door 3D printed? Just an idea I had the NLA door panels for my Mazda RX8 3D printed and they color matched factory color and texture
3D printed items generally aren't considered food-safe without being either vapor-smoothed with solvents or coated in a gap-filling sealant of some sort. The process just creates too many small gaps and pores to be "cleanable". It's not impossible of course, but likely wouldn't be cost effective for something of this size. For something this large, I would bet that creating a mold and casting a replacement would be a more practical method, especially since the cracked or chipped original could easily be cosmetically repaired well enough to form a good plug/buck to work with. Either one would only really be last-choice options if repair of the original wasn't possible... |