Thread Number: 81875  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Maytag tub light window A806
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Post# 1059065   1/28/2020 at 15:42 (1,155 days old) by hobbyapocalypse (Northeast Pennsylvania)        

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Does anyone have a picture of what the tub light window looks like in the machine? I was going over the parts diagrams for my A806 and discovered that I'm supposed to have a window. Maybe that's why my tub light is so corroded and doesn't work.

I found a picture of the window online, but apparently it's NLA. Just in case I find one, how does it go in? I don't see any seal or gasket in any parts list and I don't expect it just sits loosely over the hole. Thanks.


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Post# 1059066 , Reply# 1   1/28/2020 at 16:07 (1,154 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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just put a bead of sealant around the edge and push in place...

even a piece of plexiglass shaped a little larger than the opening would work...


Post# 1059089 , Reply# 2   1/28/2020 at 23:57 (1,154 days old) by RevvinKevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land)        
Here you go!

revvinkevin's profile picture

 

 

I was going to take photos inside my HA806, but unfortunately it's boxed in by other machines.  I then remembered I have an outer tub top/cover in the store room.  

 

So here you go!

 

Pic #1 is from above or the "outside".

Pic #2 is from below, or as you'd see from inside the tub.

Pic #3 is what it will look like after your tub light is working again! laughing

 

Kevin 


  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 3         View Full Size
Post# 1059091 , Reply# 3   1/29/2020 at 00:41 (1,154 days old) by Spacedogb (Lafayette, LA)        
Tub Light

Was the 806 the only ones to have a tub light?

Post# 1059103 , Reply# 4   1/29/2020 at 04:45 (1,154 days old) by DADoES (TX,†U.S. of A.)        

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906


Post# 1059110 , Reply# 5   1/29/2020 at 06:52 (1,154 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
MT Automatic Washers With Tub Lights

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The LSEorG1000 electronic stack machines also had this tub light in the 6 o'clock position. 1985-1990

 

The A140, the A160 & A900 series also had this tub light, there are a few other variations of these model numbers that have it as well.

 

No MT Wringer Washers ever had one, LOL

 

John L.

 

 


Post# 1059117 , Reply# 6   1/29/2020 at 07:50 (1,154 days old) by Revvinkevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land)        

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The A700 and maybe(?) the A702 also.


Post# 1059137 , Reply# 7   1/29/2020 at 16:14 (1,153 days old) by hobbyapocalypse (Northeast Pennsylvania)        
Harvest gold lit up looking good Kevin

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Great pics. It looks like just a very neat bead of clear sealant around the window as Yogitunes suggested. Thanks for all the pics and replies.

Joseph


Post# 1059479 , Reply# 8   2/2/2020 at 22:20 (1,149 days old) by D-jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area))        

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I have several Maytag washers with tub lights and all of them were seemingly installed the same way. They all look as though heat was used to soften the edge that extends down to the underside of the opening and then it was bent over in a few places to secure it in place. No sealant was used on any of them. I have a NOS spare that took me years of searching to track down, but in truth itís a very simple part. With a small bit of plexiglass, a file and some clear sealant a good replacement could be made without too much trouble.

Post# 1059517 , Reply# 9   2/3/2020 at 15:50 (1,149 days old) by hobbyapocalypse (Northeast Pennsylvania)        
David- Is your NOS window made of plastic?

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The part name and number I found is "Maytag Washing Machine Glass Window 211723" so I assumed they were made of glass. But I suppose the term "glass" can be used in a very general way. And I believe plexiglass or acrylic can be softened and bent over.

Post# 1059526 , Reply# 10   2/3/2020 at 18:36 (1,148 days old) by D-jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area))        

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Theyíre definitely injection molded plastic. Hereís a photo of the new one where you can see the raised detail that would be heated and bent to lock it in place. Of course one doesnít have to install it that way. Clear sealant would work too.

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Post# 1059527 , Reply# 11   2/3/2020 at 19:17 (1,148 days old) by D-jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area))        

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Hey Joseph.......while hunting down the new part so I could get a photo of it I found a used one that I pulled out of an old A700 that was covered in corrosion and beyond saving. If you want it Iíll send it to you. You can use the AW message system to send me a shipping address.

Post# 1060386 , Reply# 12   2/12/2020 at 16:58 (1,139 days old) by Sudsomatic (Indiana)        
RevvinKevin and D-Jones ...

sudsomatic's profile picture

Thank you both!!

 

  For the pics, I've wondered myself what this lens looked like inserted in the tub and at better angles than what the parts pictures offered. My tub is missing a lens as well... now I finally know more what it is supposed to look like.

 

 


Post# 1060501 , Reply# 13   2/13/2020 at 21:10 (1,138 days old) by d-jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area))        

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I told Corey I'd post a drawing of the tub light lens so he'd have the dimensions to work from if he wants to make a copy, so this is it. Some dimensions that can be arrived at by doing a little math have been left off. The original is drawn to 1/1 scale and isn't very large so I didn't want to clutter it up.

As you can see the width of the lens's upper surface is 1.215 inches, the length is 2.218 inches and the height of a new lens prior to installation is .227 inches. Once installed that height is reduced to about .188 inches where the material rolls over the edge of the lens opening on the tub cover. Please excuse the three place decimals in the dimensions. My calipers are used for aircraft work and are far more accurate than they need to be for this part. I used the numbers it provided, but these aren't precision parts and you won't need to be this precise when making a replacement lens for your washer.


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Post# 1060513 , Reply# 14   2/14/2020 at 06:03 (1,138 days old) by Sudsomatic (Indiana)        
d-jones is the man....

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David,

 

Awesome! When you mentioned you were planning to post a drawing of the part I wasn't expecting a true technical blueprint. That's just great. Thank you.

 

It helps a lot to see the dimensions as well as have the measurements. Since this thread addresses a common problem I'm glad to have it in the archives, here's something I've found that might help other future lens searches a little bit too.

 

A drawing like this would serve well for 3D printing, but obviously, as you intended, it also makes a good template for a more basic lens you can cutout yourself. I found this post awhile back where someone made a quick DIY lens using a Dollar store food storage container.

 

www.automaticwasher.org/c...

 

While plexiglass would be the preferred choice for it's similarity to the factory piece, the food container plastic is more malleable than plexiglass and can more easily be cut to shape with basic tools someone would be more likely to have around the house such as heavy duty kitchen scissors or tin snips. The plastic on these is a bit milky compared to crystal clear plexiglass but still very see thru.

 

The original poster, gadgetgary, used an interesting tab design to hold it in place, but with Davids drawing someone could make an exact oval shape and use sealant to attach to the tub the way Yogitunes suggests with plexiglass.

 

Thanks again David


Post# 1060535 , Reply# 15   2/14/2020 at 12:26 (1,138 days old) by Mistereric (New Jersey (Taylor Ham))        
3D Print

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If someone can make me an STL file, I can try to print this. I have access to 3D printers, just lousy at CAD.

Post# 1060641 , Reply# 16   2/15/2020 at 12:38 (1,137 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

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I'm on it. Shouldn't take long at all thanks to d-jones' measurements.

Don't let being lousy at CAD hold you back - keep at it, and you'll get there. Being able to translate ideas to models is what really explodes the possibilities of having 3D printers, so it's a rewarding process to get better at CAD and "see" that progress come to life!

I'll make a model that's a little on the descriptive side, so that you can see how I did it.


Post# 1060643 , Reply# 17   2/15/2020 at 13:07 (1,137 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

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Ok, here we go. This is a model in OpenSCAD - if you haven't used it, it's a free/open-source CAD program based on textual descriptions - you could say its "code" or a "script" of instructions on how the model should be formed from solids. OpenSCAD is a challenge for organic shapes ("Make me a model of a penguin!"), but it's perfect for dimensioned models and engineered pieces like this. www.openscad.org/index.ht......


To generate a STL, just copy/paste the following text into the OpenSCAD editor pane, then hit render (Design->Render, or F6), and then select File->Export->STL when it finishes to save the STL for your 3D printer's slicing software to use.

Apologies in advance if the forum software kills the text formatting...





// ===================================================================================
// Replacement Maytag A806 Washing Machine Tub Light Window
// (Maytag Part Number 211723)
// See this formum thread for details:
// "Maytag tub light window A806"
// www.automaticwasher.org/c...
// ===================================================================================

// Model version: 1
// Change log:
// v1: Dave ("LowEfficiency"): Initial model based on measured dimensions by David ("d-jones").


// Constants:
inchesToMillimeters = 25.4; //Conversion factor


// Measured dimensions (converted to metric for model):
r1 = (1.05/2-0.037) * inchesToMillimeters; //Inner cutout
r2 = (1.05/2) * inchesToMillimeters; //Outer edge of inset surface that protrudes through metal tub cover
r3 = (1.215/2) * inchesToMillimeters; //Top surface flange of the window
windowThickness = 0.050 * inchesToMillimeters;
protrusionDepth = (0.227-0.050) * inchesToMillimeters;

// Calculated dimensions:
// * Shape is assumed to be a pill-shape with perfect half-circle ends
// * Spacing of rounded end center points is equal to the total length minus the end radius*2
// * Using outer edge of inset portion for calculation, as that is the surface profile that matters for tub fitment
circleCenterSpacing = (2.045 * inchesToMillimeters) - r2*2;

// Unusued dimensions:
// * Measured total length of window at flange is 2.218".
// * Calculated total length of window at flange, assuming perfectly circular ends, would be 2.045+((1.215-1.05)/2) = 2.1275"
// * This should be plenty close enough for a part that isn't fit-critical, and simplifies the model to use an equal flange width.
// * (Can be easily changed in the future if desired.)

// Modifiable parameters:
roundness = 120; //Number of facets to use for circle generation. Larger value = smoother. (Should always be a multiple of 4).
// Note: Some consumer 3D printer controllers/firmwares will stutter if given too many tiny segments. If this happens, reduce the number of facets.


// Part Seletion:
generateWindowFactoryDimensions = true;
//generateWindowClipIn = false; //Provision for a more optimized part that doesn't need heat-bending or sealant to install


if (generateWindowFactoryDimensions == true)
{
window_FactoryDimensions();
}




module window_FactoryDimensions()
{
//Window surface and flange
hull()
{
cylinder(windowThickness, r3, r3, false, $fn=roundness);
translate([circleCenterSpacing, 0, 0])
cylinder(windowThickness, r3, r3, false, $fn=roundness);
}

//Window mounting protrusion
difference()
{
//Outer dimensions, overlapping window surface by 0.1 to ensure a solid model
translate([0,0,windowThickness-0.1])
hull()
{
cylinder(0.1+protrusionDepth, r2, r2, false, $fn=roundness);
translate([circleCenterSpacing, 0, 0])
cylinder(0.1+protrusionDepth, r2, r2, false, $fn=roundness);
}

//Inner cutout, overlapping on both ends to ensure a complete cut through without co-planar surfaces
// (This does not cut into the window surface, only the protrusion portion)
translate([0,0,windowThickness-0.1])
hull()
{
cylinder(0.1+protrusionDepth+1, r1, r1, false, $fn=roundness);
translate([circleCenterSpacing, 0, 0])
cylinder(0.1+protrusionDepth+1, r1, r1, false, $fn=roundness);
}
}
}


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Post# 1060644 , Reply# 18   2/15/2020 at 13:12 (1,137 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

Also, I'm not sure how hot that area gets next to the light bulb, but you would probably want to print this in a more heat-tolerant material. (Clear PETG would be better than PLA, for example.) Another option would be to use the 3D printed part as a plug/buck for a simple mold, where you could then cast the part in a clear resin.


Post# 1060648 , Reply# 19   2/15/2020 at 13:41 (1,137 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture
Here's a variant with provisions to convert the part to a clip-in piece. Not sure if this would work without having a tub cover in front of me...

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Post# 1060649 , Reply# 20   2/15/2020 at 13:43 (1,137 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture
Code for the above:


// ===================================================================================
// Replacement Maytag A806 Washing Machine Tub Light Window
// (Maytag Part Number 211723)
// See this formum thread for details:
// "Maytag tub light window A806"
// www.automaticwasher.org/c...
// ===================================================================================

// Model version: 2
// Change log:
// v1: Dave ("LowEfficiency"): Initial model based on measured dimensions by David ("d-jones").
// v2: Dave ("LowEfficiency"): 3D-printing optimized "snap-in" variant added. (Concept only - not fit tested!)


// Constants:
inchesToMillimeters = 25.4; //Conversion factor


// Measured dimensions (converted to metric for model):
r1 = (1.05/2-0.037) * inchesToMillimeters; //Inner cutout
r2 = (1.05/2) * inchesToMillimeters; //Outer edge of inset surface that protrudes through metal tub cover
r3 = (1.215/2) * inchesToMillimeters; //Top surface flange of the window
windowThickness = 0.050 * inchesToMillimeters;
protrusionDepth = (0.227-0.050) * inchesToMillimeters;

// Calculated dimensions:
// * Shape is assumed to be a pill-shape with perfect half-circle ends
// * Spacing of rounded end center points is equal to the total length minus the end radius*2
// * Using outer edge of inset portion for calculation, as that is the surface profile that matters for tub fitment
circleCenterSpacing = (2.045 * inchesToMillimeters) - r2*2;

// Unusued dimensions:
// * Measured total length of window at flange is 2.218".
// * Calculated total length of window at flange, assuming perfectly circular ends, would be 2.045+((1.215-1.05)/2) = 2.1275"
// * This should be plenty close enough for a part that isn't fit-critical, and simplifies the model to use an equal flange width.
// * (Can be easily changed in the future if desired.)

// Modifiable parameters:
roundness = 120; //Number of facets to use for circle generation. Larger value = smoother. (Should always be a multiple of 4).
// Note: Some consumer 3D printer controllers/firmwares will stutter if given too many tiny segments. If this happens, reduce the number of facets.


// Part Seletion:
generateWindowFactoryDimensions = false;
generateWindowClipIn = true; //A more optimized clip-in part that doesn't need heat-bending or sealant to install


if (generateWindowFactoryDimensions == true)
{
window_FactoryDimensions();
}

if (generateWindowClipIn == true)
{
window_ClipIn();
}



module window_FactoryDimensions()
{
//Window surface and flange
hull()
{
cylinder(windowThickness, r3, r3, false, $fn=roundness);
translate([circleCenterSpacing, 0, 0])
cylinder(windowThickness, r3, r3, false, $fn=roundness);
}

//Window mounting protrusion
difference()
{
//Outer dimensions, overlapping window surface by 0.1 to ensure a solid model
translate([0,0,windowThickness-0.1])
hull()
{
cylinder(0.1+protrusionDepth, r2, r2, false, $fn=roundness);
translate([circleCenterSpacing, 0, 0])
cylinder(0.1+protrusionDepth, r2, r2, false, $fn=roundness);
}

//Inner cutout, overlapping on both ends to ensure a complete cut through without co-planar surfaces
// (This does not cut into the window surface, only the protrusion portion)
translate([0,0,windowThickness-0.1])
hull()
{
cylinder(0.1+protrusionDepth+1, r1, r1, false, $fn=roundness);
translate([circleCenterSpacing, 0, 0])
cylinder(0.1+protrusionDepth+1, r1, r1, false, $fn=roundness);
}
}
}


module window_ClipIn()
{
//Create a clip-in lens by modifying the "factory" version

//Modifiable variables:
slotWidth = 0.5; //Make larger if specific 3D printer tolerances require (ie: if gaps are too close and become connected)
tabWidth = 6;
tabBumpRadius = 0.8;


difference()
{
//Start with the factory shape
window_FactoryDimensions();

//Cut slots to create tabs, facilitating flexing
translate([0,-r2-1,windowThickness+0.5])
cube([slotWidth,r2*2+2,protrusionDepth]);
translate([circleCenterSpacing-slotWidth,-r2-1,windowThickness+0.5])
cube([slotWidth,r2*2+2,protrusionDepth]);
translate([slotWidth+tabWidth,-r2-1,windowThickness+0.5])
cube([slotWidth,r2*2+2,protrusionDepth]);
translate([circleCenterSpacing-slotWidth-tabWidth-slotWidth,-r2-1,windowThickness+0.5])
cube([slotWidth,r2*2+2,protrusionDepth]);
}

//Add the pill-shaped bumps
pillShapedBump(slotWidth, -r2, windowThickness+protrusionDepth-tabBumpRadius, tabBumpRadius, tabWidth);
pillShapedBump(circleCenterSpacing-slotWidth-tabWidth, r2, windowThickness+protrusionDepth-tabBumpRadius, tabBumpRadius, tabWidth);
pillShapedBump(circleCenterSpacing-slotWidth-tabWidth, -r2, windowThickness+protrusionDepth-tabBumpRadius, tabBumpRadius, tabWidth);
pillShapedBump(slotWidth, r2, windowThickness+protrusionDepth-tabBumpRadius, tabBumpRadius, tabWidth);
}


module pillShapedBump(xPosEdge, yPosCenter, zPosCenter, radius, length)
{
translate([xPosEdge+radius,yPosCenter,zPosCenter])
sphere(radius, $fn=32);
translate([xPosEdge+radius,yPosCenter,zPosCenter])
rotate([0,90,0])
cylinder(length-radius*2, radius, radius, false, $fn=32);
translate([xPosEdge+length-radius,yPosCenter,zPosCenter])
sphere(radius, $fn=32);
}


Post# 1060661 , Reply# 21   2/15/2020 at 14:53 (1,137 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
MT Tub Cover Light Lens

combo52's profile picture
Very cool Dave, you just do not want it to protrude much below the tub cover as clothing sometimes is slung into that area with large loads during spin-drain.

This is why MT changed the " U " hose that the water enters through to have a light gray rubber end where it goes through the tub cover because the earlier all black rubber " U " hose would sometimes leave black stains on clothing.


Post# 1060662 , Reply# 22   2/15/2020 at 14:59 (1,137 days old) by Sudsomatic (Indiana)        
Nice work Dave!

sudsomatic's profile picture

 

 

I've been playing around in Tinkercad, which is a very basic program using starter point shapes, and as my CAD knowledge is even more basic I haven't gotten very far on it. I can't get my cubes to have rounded corners and the ovals are much too rounded to make the true pill shape.

 

I've thought for a long time if I could ever find a replacement lens I would cast it with a mold and clear resin, to make a very scarce part available to anyone else that might need one.

 

 




This post was last edited 02/15/2020 at 16:44
Post# 1060963 , Reply# 23   2/19/2020 at 12:58 (1,133 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture
Hmmm... Thinking some more about this...

The factory installation looks very secure. How does it come to be that windows go missing? Do they crack and fall out with age? Are a number of people missing their windows?

John and David make good points about the protrusion length and snagging possibility. If you were willing to use a sealant to fix it in place, I wonder if you could simply shorten the protrusion to say 25% of its length, and then glue it in place from the top with some clear silicone or the like? The protrusion would then simply serve to locate it horizontally, it wouldn't stick out much (if any) below the bottom of the metal.

Although not quite as original, another repair option might be to produce a smaller completely flat pill-shaped piece (which could be laser cut from sheet plexiglass or the like), and install flush into the opening with a small H-shaped rubber gasket around the perimeter.




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