Like New Maytag LA512 stopped Agitating/SpinDrying

First off, congrats for taking such good care of that washer. It looks showroom new inside and out!

This sounds like a simple repair. The machine should be performing at least one of the 2 functions, agitation or spin, if the motor, belts, and pulleys are all turning.

If there isn't a burning rubber scent or squeal like a belt is burning up, you should be ok. Usually this is the case when the upper transmission shafts seizes up or a piece of clothing gets stuck between the inner and outer tubs during the spin cycle.

The tub should not turn easy in either direct, so that's a good sign. The brake is applied at all times except for the spin cycle.

Here's what to check first:

Remove the front panel by unscrewing the 2 screws located under the corner lip of the front panel near the bottom. You'll need a stubby Phillips screwdriver. Once the screws are removed, lift the front panel 90 degrees and it'll unlock the tabs from the top panel.

Put a 4x4 piece of wood (or something that's of sturdy equivalence and height) under the right front foot (looking at the the machine).

Underneath, roll the pump belt off of the motor and pump pulley followed by the drive belt from the motor and transmission pulley. Check that the motor pulley turns with the motor shaft. Sometimes the motor pulley set screw backs off and needs tightening or shears off if ran loose for long periods of time.

Some of the 2 piece motor pulleys will strip out and you can twist them independently in opposite directions, make sure they're solid.

Checking the transmission: The center transmission drive pulley should turn easy in the COUNTER-clockwise direction (this is agitation). Clockwise direction is spin. You have to overcome the initial spring tension in the brake package as the pulley climbs the lower helical transmission shaft but it should spin the inner tub once the that tension is overcome and the pulley locks up.

Something should reveal itself at this point.


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Post# 1069111 4/24/2020 at 20:42 (1,452 days old) by maytagbeliever (Raleigh, NC)
Checkrate/Likes I bought this new with the matching dryer in 1985. It just stopped Agitating and Spin Drying. I have looked into new machines and some how the US seams to have lost it,s way on knowing how and making quality washers that can wash and last! my washer is in excellent condition. I see the motor and belts and drive pulleys are turning including the shaft above the drive pulley, but neither the tub or agitator function and it is hard to rotated the tub in either direction. I suspect it may be the transmission and the tub bearing. I am sad to say but I am 61, disabled and my short term memory has gotten worse. But I want to make a best effort to save this good looking machine. If I fail, at least I tried. I think my transmission P/N is 2-3438 (A512), but my washer is a LA512. And I know if it is my transmission that has failed that there are no longer replacement parts for it. It seems like the orbital transmission can be used, but it looks like it was a Maytag cost reduction step and maybe it doesn't wash as good or last as long. But I think breaking open my transmission hunting for problems fixing it and putting it back together is above my current abilities. If anyone has any suggestions or ideas I am all eyes and ears. Monday I have an authorized appliance repairman coming to give me an assessment, but I am afraid I already know it is the transmission with the only option to replace it with an orbital and new clutch, etc and there labor would be prohibitive and he will tell me to just buy a new washer getting me nowhere. Thanks for your attention and any advice or ideas you may have! Steven Photos... < > Photo 1 of 7 View Full Size

Post# 1069121 , Reply# 1 4/24/2020 at 22:04 (1,452 days old) by qsd-dan (West)
Checkrate/Likes 6 First off, congrats for taking such good care of that washer. It looks showroom new inside and out! This sounds like a simple repair. The machine should be performing at least one of the 2 functions, agitation or spin, if the motor, belts, and pulleys are all turning. If there isn't a burning rubber scent or squeal like a belt is burning up, you should be ok. Usually this is the case when the upper transmission shafts seizes up or a piece of clothing gets stuck between the inner and outer tubs during the spin cycle. The tub should not turn easy in either direct, so that's a good sign. The brake is applied at all times except for the spin cycle. Here's what to check first: Remove the front panel by unscrewing the 2 screws located under the corner lip of the front panel near the bottom. You'll need a stubby Phillips screwdriver. Once the screws are removed, lift the front panel 90 degrees and it'll unlock the tabs from the top panel. Put a 4x4 piece of wood (or something that's of sturdy equivalence and height) under the right front foot (looking at the the machine). Underneath, roll the pump belt off of the motor and pump pulley followed by the drive belt from the motor and transmission pulley. Check that the motor pulley turns with the motor shaft. Sometimes the motor pulley set screw backs off and needs tightening or shears off if ran loose for long periods of time. Some of the 2 piece motor pulleys will strip out and you can twist them independently in opposite directions, make sure they're solid. Checking the transmission: The center transmission drive pulley should turn easy in the COUNTER-clockwise direction (this is agitation). Clockwise direction is spin. You have to overcome the initial spring tension in the brake package as the pulley climbs the lower helical transmission shaft but it should spin the inner tub once the that tension is overcome and the pulley locks up. Something should reveal itself at this point.

Post# 1069256 , Reply# 2 4/25/2020 at 15:35 (1,451 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)
Checkrate/Likes 1 I don't understand the problem you described but I do know an orbital transmission will work just fine in that washer. Your current transmission produces a slower and longer agitator stroke. The orbital transmission provides a shorter and faster agitation stroke. If you swap transmissions, just be sure to get the shorter transmission made for large capacity tubs. You'll also need to get an updated agitator that is designed for the orbital transmission. The old power fin agitator will put too much drag on the orbital transmission.