Thread Number: 82870  /  Tag: Vintage Dryers
Lady Kenmore Solid State Dryer
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Post# 1070733   5/3/2020 at 23:35 (1,315 days old) by rover4444 (Oklahoma)        

Hello all! I'm new to the forum, and I'd like to get more info on this dryer. If anybody knows where I can get the spring clips for the thing at the bottom, I'd love to know! One of the ones I had snapped when one of the installers tried to bend it into a slot after the thing (footer?) fell off.

Attached is a photo of some of my appliances and the part I'm talking about, feel free to tell me what you think! Please help me of you can.

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Post# 1070740 , Reply# 1   5/4/2020 at 02:03 (1,315 days old) by 70series ( Connecticut.)        

Welcome to the group.

I can't see any photos showing.

Post# 1070751 , Reply# 2   5/4/2020 at 06:21 (1,315 days old) by rover4444 (Oklahoma)        

Sorry, don't know what happened there. Here are the pics.

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Post# 1070757 , Reply# 3   5/4/2020 at 07:34 (1,315 days old) by DADoES (TX,†U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture

This is a match to an early electronic control washer, probably circa 1978 to 1979.† The washer has a touch panel for cycle selection but the dryer has mechanical pushbuttons.† The serial number is coded for the year and week of production.

Post# 1070760 , Reply# 4   5/4/2020 at 07:42 (1,315 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Lower Panel clips For A late 70s KM Dryer

combo52's profile picture

These should be still available, with the model # I can check.


John L.


Welcome to AW

Post# 1070811 , Reply# 5   5/4/2020 at 13:37 (1,314 days old) by bradfordwhite (central U.S.)        

bradfordwhite's profile picture

Nice dryer and washer.


Yes, those clips are well known for needing replacement.  Can't tell you how many times I've found a Whirlpool built dryer like this with the bottom panel held in place with tape.  The previous owner not being sophisticated enough to order the inexpensive clips apparently.

Post# 1070824 , Reply# 6   5/4/2020 at 16:00 (1,314 days old) by rover4444 (Oklahoma)        
More stuff

Thanks everybody! I found the info plate on the dryer. I also hear you guys like to look at the drum, so here's some pictures of that too.

It also looks like there's supposed to be a drum light in there if I'm going off the consumer checklist, but it must have went out before I got it. And what's a dry rack and convenience hanger?

I also think I lost one of the screws, if anyone could help me out. Is there a manual out there for this?

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Post# 1070825 , Reply# 7   5/4/2020 at 16:13 (1,314 days old) by DADoES (TX,†U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture

Manufactured between March 19th and March 23rd of 1979.

Drying rack is a horizontal rack that sits inside the drum to dry shoes, sweaters, and other such items not suited for tumbling.† It has two spring tabs that fit into the dimples in the recess at back of the drum and legs that sit on the edge of the loading port.

Convenience hanger mounts into two brackets at back of the console and has an arm to hold items on clothes hangers.† Useful to hang shirts and such when unloading in preparation for moving them to a closet, etc.

Post# 1070844 , Reply# 8   5/4/2020 at 18:03 (1,314 days old) by bradfordwhite (central U.S.)        

bradfordwhite's profile picture

Wow, look at that drum.  It doesn't look like it's got a scratch on it.  Beautiful.  So unusual for a dryer this age.


You can tell it's a clean Electric dryer.  If you want to sell, let me know.


The round beige plastic lens on the back wall with some subtle ribs in it is where the light bulb goes.  If you put your hands on it and turn it counter clockwise it will come off and you can change the bulb.



Post# 1070948 , Reply# 9   5/5/2020 at 09:45 (1,313 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
Nice dryer

jetcone's profile picture

one of the best ever made


Post# 1070959 , Reply# 10   5/5/2020 at 11:29 (1,313 days old) by rover4444 (Oklahoma)        
No ground cable?

Thanks everybody, but I think I noticed something when I read what might look like a manual for a related model...

There's supposed to a grounding cable somewhere around here, right? I tried reaching around the terminal block and looking/feeling around inside the panel, but the only green I could see was going to the top dials, and I think the one that's supposed to be wired on is green/yellow anyways.

I also managed to change the bulb out, thank you.

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Post# 1070960 , Reply# 11   5/5/2020 at 12:18 (1,313 days old) by littlegreeny (Milwaukee, WI)        
Love the Miele

littlegreeny's profile picture
Nice set. Please tell us how you like your Miele W1.

Post# 1070964 , Reply# 12   5/5/2020 at 13:02 (1,313 days old) by Rover4444 (Oklahoma)        

Yeah, the drum's in really good condition, I knew I had to get it when I saw it on CL. Probably not going to be selling it anytime soon though. I might get a matching T1 if I ever come across some extra cash, otherwise I'll probably keep this thing until it or I kicks the bucket. And I'm a pretty young guy, so you might be waiting a while!

One of the best ever made, huh? I don't know too much about appliances, so I'll have to take your word for it. Wasn't there the 600, 800, and then Lady Kenmores?

I'm liking how quiet the Miele is so far, but I haven't owned/used it long enough to give a proper assessment or appreciate the features. Besides, what can I say about the Miele that hasn't been said everywhere else? If I do ever put up a review, though, I'll put it in Deluxe.

Post# 1070966 , Reply# 13   5/5/2020 at 13:05 (1,313 days old) by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture

There were actually Kenmore 400, 500, 600, 700, 70, 800, 80, and 900, through the years, in addition to the LK.  

Post# 1070968 , Reply# 14   5/5/2020 at 13:17 (1,313 days old) by DADoES (TX,†U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture

Also 100, 200, and 300 although they weren't always labeled as such on the machines.† 60.† 90 (direct-drives only?).

Post# 1070991 , Reply# 15   5/5/2020 at 16:22 (1,313 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

goatfarmer's profile picture

You mean the green screw? That's for an external ground.

Post# 1070996 , Reply# 16   5/5/2020 at 16:58 (1,313 days old) by Rover4444 (Oklahoma)        
Cable, not screw

I know. But where is the grounding cable?

From what I've seen off a similar dryer, there should have been a green / yellow cable coming off the neutral connecting to that screw, or connecting to itself if it's a four-prong. The guy before me had the latter, but there was no extra wire coming off the terminal or pigtailed off on the other end. I couldn't feel anything coming from the other side, anyways.

Post# 1071004 , Reply# 17   5/5/2020 at 17:50 (1,313 days old) by DADoES (TX,†U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture

There's sometimes a grounding strap that connects across the ground screw (or machine frame) and middle neutral terminal.† Or an internal green ground wire.

A 4-wire/-prong cord has an integral green ground wire which goes to the screw, in which case the strap is removed from the neutral terminal.

If it originally had a ground strap or internal green ground wire and the previous owner had a 4-wire cord, presumably he removed and discarded the strap or wire (or shoved it somewhere up out of the way)?

If you're using a 3-wire cord, maybe run a separate ground wire from the screw to a grounding source?

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Post# 1071007 , Reply# 18   5/5/2020 at 18:09 (1,313 days old) by bradfordwhite (central U.S.)        

bradfordwhite's profile picture

Back then, grounding a large 220 volt appliance like this was not as stringent as it is today.


Now we have the "new" 4 prong dryer and stove outlets that are code.  Actually have been code for about 20 years now.  Previous they were three prong. 


I'm wondering if models back then were exclusively relying on the metal frame of the dryer for the ground and that's why there are no other wires connecting to the ground wire network in the dryer.   

Who ever installed the that three prong plug may have remove the tab going from the neutral to the metal frame.  Perhaps where it was installed previous someone connected a wire from that screw to a ground like a water pipe. 

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Post# 1071020 , Reply# 19   5/5/2020 at 19:28 (1,313 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Grounding 208 and 240 volt ranges and dryers In The US

combo52's profile picture

Grounding ranges and dryers has always been very important for safe operation of these appliances.


This 1979 LKM electric dryer was built with the white neutral wire tied to the cabinet in the wiring harness from the factory, you can confirm that the ground connection is properly connected by taking an Ohm meter and testing from the El shaped prong on the cord to the cabinet of the dryer and you should have 0 Ohms resistance.


The current requirement to have 4 wire cords which provide a separate ground wire all the way back to the service panel is a mixed blessing IMEO.


The problem with a 4 wire cord is you have no way of knowing whether the appliance is ACTUALLY grounded and whether it STAYS grounded throughout its use in your house. We see appliances all the time where the ground was never connected either at the appliance, in the outlet box or in the circuit panel.


With the 3 wire system where the neutral and ground are the same the dryer will not even run if the neutral-ground goes open, the possible bad part of this system is the cabinet of the appliance can become live with 120 volts, but you will have to call for service to get the dryer to run again.


In my homes and at the warehouse I never use the 4 wire system, first of all it is a waste of copper as you are using 25% more copper [ or aluminum ] because you have an extra 10-6 Ga wire running all the way from the appliance to the main panel that will never be used to run the appliance.


John L.

Post# 1071027 , Reply# 20   5/5/2020 at 19:57 (1,313 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture
That was an interesting post, John. Thanks

Post# 1071031 , Reply# 21   5/5/2020 at 20:38 (1,313 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806)        

maytag85's profile picture
I never really understood what the point of the newer 4 prong 240 volt dryer cords. If they used 3 prong 240 volt plugs all these years and dryers that use them still work fine I donít see what the point of putting a 4 prong 240 volt plug on them.

Post# 1071093 , Reply# 22   5/6/2020 at 10:15 (1,312 days old) by vacerator (Macomb, Michigan)        
Sean, same here.

I figure electricians and plumbers in their trades have conspired with local building code enforcers to make more money, and or more work for their members by improving the ground, and the chimeny flu liner diameter from 3, or 4 to 6 inches for gas water heaters. Expensive jobs. So if a 3 inch diameter flu was adequate for 80 years, and our grandparents never had asfixiation, or electrocution problems, why now? As usual, do the math, follow the money.

Post# 1071233 , Reply# 23   5/7/2020 at 18:28 (1,311 days old) by KB0NES (Burnsville, MN)        

kb0nes's profile picture
The point of the 4th wire is that a safety ground wire should never carry circuit current unless there is a fault. But indeed the ground and neutral are bonded in the service entrance panel so the chassis of the appliance should never be far from ground potential. That is UNLESS the neutral connection breaks then at which point the chassis flies off to 120v AC to ground. This can't happen if there is a 4th ground wire as the breaker will trip.

But John's point of the possibility of having an open ground wire is valid, and unless someone insures the ground integrity one might be simply hoping that someone did things right. Unlike 120v outlets I am unaware of a common plug in outlet tester for a 240v dryer outlet.

Post# 1071490 , Reply# 24   5/9/2020 at 01:59 (1,310 days old) by MattL (Flushing, MI)        

Larger flue?  Mine was downsized years ago when I went to a 96+ furnace. Was told since it was only the WH there was too much draw so they dropped a flex line to reduce it, not a big deal, took less than an hour.

Post# 1071499 , Reply# 25   5/9/2020 at 06:03 (1,310 days old) by vacerator (Macomb, Michigan)        
Good tip Matt;

Hope I won't need one then when our WH needs replacing. Had this one since 2002. We only keep it just above warm for the two of us, so likely why it's still good. 40 gallon GE smart heater 12 year. Already have a 95+ furnace.
It was my Dad's house when the flu enlargment was required. He had an 80% efficiency Heil furnace that was still using the chimney for exhaust. Only drew in outside air for combustion. There was no liner yet. Of course, a year after he passed my sister had to replace it. She had central air installed 2 years prior and they said the furnace was still ok. Heat exchange was perforated clean through. Her Co2 detector went off, but ironically she smelled it first.

Post# 1072043 , Reply# 26   5/11/2020 at 22:42 (1,307 days old) by Historian (Owensboro, KY )        
Ground lug

Hey, I am NOT a professional but wouldn't this green lug be where you would connect the 4th wire?

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Post# 1072056 , Reply# 27   5/11/2020 at 23:30 (1,307 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Ground Connection On An Electric Dryer

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Hi Historian, Yes that is where a separate ground wire gets connected, either from a 4 wire cord or a separate ground to a cold water pipe etc.


But if you are going to install a 4 wire cord on an older WP-KM dryer like this you need to raise the dryer top and disconnect the internal ground that goes from the white center terminal to the cabinet.


John L.

Post# 1072071 , Reply# 28   5/12/2020 at 02:14 (1,307 days old) by Historian (Owensboro, KY )        

Thanks, good to know!

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