Thread Number: 82870
/ Tag: Vintage Dryers
Lady Kenmore Solid State Dryer |
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Post# 1070740 , Reply# 1   5/4/2020 at 02:03 (1,315 days old) by 70series ( Connecticut.)   |   | |
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Welcome to the group. I can't see any photos showing. |
Post# 1070751 , Reply# 2   5/4/2020 at 06:21 (1,315 days old) by rover4444 (Oklahoma)   |   | |
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Sorry, don't know what happened there. Here are the pics. |
Post# 1070757 , Reply# 3   5/4/2020 at 07:34 (1,315 days old) by DADoES ![]() |
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Post# 1070760 , Reply# 4   5/4/2020 at 07:42 (1,315 days old) by combo52 ![]() |
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Post# 1070811 , Reply# 5   5/4/2020 at 13:37 (1,314 days old) by bradfordwhite ![]() |
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Post# 1070825 , Reply# 7   5/4/2020 at 16:13 (1,314 days old) by DADoES ![]() |
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![]() Manufactured between March 19th and March 23rd of 1979. Drying rack is a horizontal rack that sits inside the drum to dry shoes, sweaters, and other such items not suited for tumbling. It has two spring tabs that fit into the dimples in the recess at back of the drum and legs that sit on the edge of the loading port. Convenience hanger mounts into two brackets at back of the console and has an arm to hold items on clothes hangers. Useful to hang shirts and such when unloading in preparation for moving them to a closet, etc. |
Post# 1070844 , Reply# 8   5/4/2020 at 18:03 (1,314 days old) by bradfordwhite ![]() |
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![]() Wow, look at that drum. It doesn't look like it's got a scratch on it. Beautiful. So unusual for a dryer this age.
You can tell it's a clean Electric dryer. If you want to sell, let me know.
The round beige plastic lens on the back wall with some subtle ribs in it is where the light bulb goes. If you put your hands on it and turn it counter clockwise it will come off and you can change the bulb.
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Post# 1070948 , Reply# 9   5/5/2020 at 09:45 (1,313 days old) by Jetcone ![]() |
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Post# 1070960 , Reply# 11   5/5/2020 at 12:18 (1,313 days old) by littlegreeny ![]() |
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Post# 1070966 , Reply# 13   5/5/2020 at 13:05 (1,313 days old) by appnut ![]() |
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Post# 1070968 , Reply# 14   5/5/2020 at 13:17 (1,313 days old) by DADoES ![]() |
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Post# 1070991 , Reply# 15   5/5/2020 at 16:22 (1,313 days old) by goatfarmer ![]() |
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Post# 1071004 , Reply# 17   5/5/2020 at 17:50 (1,313 days old) by DADoES ![]() |
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![]() There's sometimes a grounding strap that connects across the ground screw (or machine frame) and middle neutral terminal. Or an internal green ground wire. A 4-wire/-prong cord has an integral green ground wire which goes to the screw, in which case the strap is removed from the neutral terminal. If it originally had a ground strap or internal green ground wire and the previous owner had a 4-wire cord, presumably he removed and discarded the strap or wire (or shoved it somewhere up out of the way)? If you're using a 3-wire cord, maybe run a separate ground wire from the screw to a grounding source? |
Post# 1071007 , Reply# 18   5/5/2020 at 18:09 (1,313 days old) by bradfordwhite ![]() |
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![]() Back then, grounding a large 220 volt appliance like this was not as stringent as it is today.
Now we have the "new" 4 prong dryer and stove outlets that are code. Actually have been code for about 20 years now. Previous they were three prong.
I'm wondering if models back then were exclusively relying on the metal frame of the dryer for the ground and that's why there are no other wires connecting to the ground wire network in the dryer. Who ever installed the that three prong plug may have remove the tab going from the neutral to the metal frame. Perhaps where it was installed previous someone connected a wire from that screw to a ground like a water pipe.
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Post# 1071020 , Reply# 19   5/5/2020 at 19:28 (1,313 days old) by combo52 ![]() |
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![]() Grounding ranges and dryers has always been very important for safe operation of these appliances.
This 1979 LKM electric dryer was built with the white neutral wire tied to the cabinet in the wiring harness from the factory, you can confirm that the ground connection is properly connected by taking an Ohm meter and testing from the El shaped prong on the cord to the cabinet of the dryer and you should have 0 Ohms resistance.
The current requirement to have 4 wire cords which provide a separate ground wire all the way back to the service panel is a mixed blessing IMEO.
The problem with a 4 wire cord is you have no way of knowing whether the appliance is ACTUALLY grounded and whether it STAYS grounded throughout its use in your house. We see appliances all the time where the ground was never connected either at the appliance, in the outlet box or in the circuit panel.
With the 3 wire system where the neutral and ground are the same the dryer will not even run if the neutral-ground goes open, the possible bad part of this system is the cabinet of the appliance can become live with 120 volts, but you will have to call for service to get the dryer to run again.
In my homes and at the warehouse I never use the 4 wire system, first of all it is a waste of copper as you are using 25% more copper [ or aluminum ] because you have an extra 10-6 Ga wire running all the way from the appliance to the main panel that will never be used to run the appliance.
John L. |
Post# 1071027 , Reply# 20   5/5/2020 at 19:57 (1,313 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 1071031 , Reply# 21   5/5/2020 at 20:38 (1,313 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806)   |   | |
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Post# 1071233 , Reply# 23   5/7/2020 at 18:28 (1,311 days old) by KB0NES ![]() |
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The point of the 4th wire is that a safety ground wire should never carry circuit current unless there is a fault. But indeed the ground and neutral are bonded in the service entrance panel so the chassis of the appliance should never be far from ground potential. That is UNLESS the neutral connection breaks then at which point the chassis flies off to 120v AC to ground. This can't happen if there is a 4th ground wire as the breaker will trip.
But John's point of the possibility of having an open ground wire is valid, and unless someone insures the ground integrity one might be simply hoping that someone did things right. Unlike 120v outlets I am unaware of a common plug in outlet tester for a 240v dryer outlet. |
Post# 1071490 , Reply# 24   5/9/2020 at 01:59 (1,310 days old) by MattL ![]() |
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Larger flue? Mine was downsized years ago when I went to a 96+ furnace. Was told since it was only the WH there was too much draw so they dropped a flex line to reduce it, not a big deal, took less than an hour. |
Post# 1072043 , Reply# 26   5/11/2020 at 22:42 (1,307 days old) by Historian (Owensboro, KY )   |   | |
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Hey, I am NOT a professional but wouldn't this green lug be where you would connect the 4th wire?
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Post# 1072056 , Reply# 27   5/11/2020 at 23:30 (1,307 days old) by combo52 ![]() |
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![]() Hi Historian, Yes that is where a separate ground wire gets connected, either from a 4 wire cord or a separate ground to a cold water pipe etc.
But if you are going to install a 4 wire cord on an older WP-KM dryer like this you need to raise the dryer top and disconnect the internal ground that goes from the white center terminal to the cabinet.
John L. |
Post# 1072071 , Reply# 28   5/12/2020 at 02:14 (1,307 days old) by Historian (Owensboro, KY )   |   | |
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Thanks, good to know! |