Thread Number: 83118  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Questions regarding Maytag LA712 refurb (series 04)
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Post# 1074141   5/24/2020 at 19:20 (1,031 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca )        

Hi all.. Iím new here.. I picked up a new-to-me Ď87 Maytag LA712 in Almond yesterday ó a matched pair with a gas dryer for $75. The original owner who I got them from told me that he started noticing that the clothes were not getting as clean as they used to ó and they occasionally had stains. So, Iíve got the front off the machine today and its pretty filthy on the platform that everything is mounted on ó what appears to be lines of soot and general grunge. The belts on the bottom of the machine are SUPER loose so they will be replaced.

I ran a couple of quick cycles and the last one, one complete, I found grease on a part of the tub that I know was clean before the last load started. My older brother believes this is caused by the tub seal failing. Does that sound like a fairly reliable diagnosis at this point? Iíll be visiting a local appliance place tomorrow to grab some parts and at his point Iím targeting the following list :

1) belts
2) tab seal & bearing(?)
3) motor rollers
4) spanner wrench

Should there be anything else I need to look at getting? Iíll attach a pic of the bottom showing the soot marks. My brother thought the soot came from the belts but theyíre under the plate where the soot came from ó so that came from somewhere else. Maybe its associated with the clutch on the bottom of the tub or something.. ??


  View Full Size



Post# 1074156 , Reply# 1   5/24/2020 at 21:30 (1,031 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
LA-712 Rebuild

combo52's profile picture

Hi Rick, you don't need motor rollers, you may not need belts unless the larger main drive belt is badly worn, they are supposed to be very loose.

 

You do need damper pads and an aluminum damper dome.

 

You probably need a main tub seal kit and maybe a transmission depending on the condition of the agitator shaft in the upper seal area.

 

You have a very big but doable project ahead of you, we are here to help if you want spend the time and a few hundred bucks  on this washer.

 

John L.


Post# 1074169 , Reply# 2   5/24/2020 at 22:38 (1,030 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca )        

Thanks John.. I actually started taking things apart until I couldnít go any further. Hereís a pic of the tub with the agitator removed. Thoughts?

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Post# 1074218 , Reply# 3   5/25/2020 at 08:08 (1,030 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
LA-712 Rebuild

combo52's profile picture

Hi Rick, you very likely have water in the transmission and oil is now making its way up and out.

 

As mentioned in my post above you have a real job ahead if you want to save this washer.

 

John L.


Post# 1074321 , Reply# 4   5/25/2020 at 21:16 (1,030 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture
Full tear down and rebuild with this guy, which is the best approach for long term reliability, anyway. Best to do it while most of the parts are still accessible.

It'll certainly need a new damper and damper pads. A fresh coat of paint on the base wouldn't be a bad idea while it's all apart.

Stem and boot seal are a given and a new spin bearing is just a couple of more steps.

I agree with John that the transmission has a good possibility of water contamination with grease coming out like that. This makes a transmission tear down inevitable. I'd even say that the shaft needs to be removed from the upper housing and inspected (a real pain if you've never experience this but not nearly as bad as pre 1975 machines). Any water contamination here will quickly take out both the shaft and sleeve bearings. Removal of the upper shaft is the only possible way to gauge immediate problems.

Motor carriage will certainly need attention. I've never come across a 20+ year old Maytag that doesn't at minimum need the tracks cleaned and regreased. Reusing the rollers/glides would be foolish at this stage. This area is important for proper agitation and crucial in the spin department, so don't skimp here. New belts are a must after putting that kind of work in, but get the real deal, no aftermarket junk.

It's a great machine to learn on and worst case scenario, find another 1980-1993 tall tub Maytag washer and swap the control panel over (and motor, if a single speed) and you're set to go.

The link below is from a member who performed a detailed rebuild sometime back, which will give you an idea what's involved and help you along the way if you decide to go that route. The only noteable difference is that your '87 will have a lip seal at the bottom of the transmission tube vs an o-ring inside the lower housing. There's a Youtube clip on how to replace this seal without using the special tool.


CLICK HERE TO GO TO qsd-dan's LINK


Post# 1074694 , Reply# 5   5/28/2020 at 11:39 (1,027 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca )        

Thanks guys! I just bought a brand new transmission from a supplier in my area that I trust. With that said, Iíll order the damper pads & damper and motor rollers and go from there. Iím sure there are other items I wonít know yet til I dig into it further.. I just got a spanner wrench to take the tub out and will see what that reveals.

Post# 1074760 , Reply# 6   5/28/2020 at 20:06 (1,027 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca )        

Ok.. So I got things home and tackled a bunch of stuff.. The first thing to notice is that the new transmission looks vastly different than the old one. The old one more or less is what Iíll call a horizontal ďflatĒ unit with what appears to be a large counterbalance weight opposite the trans itself. The new model looks like a car differential more and doesnít appear to have the counterbalance.. Is that just an artifact of a newer design and that theyíre interchangeable without issues elsewhere?

I tried using the spanner wrench, but it wouldnít budge the spanner nut or whatever its called. I tried using pb blaster w/o luck. I eventually bought a cold chisel and beat it off that way and boogered up the cone beneath the nut area. Oh well.. One more piece to replace.

Right now Iíve got the main tub out and am trying to get off the inner bits that sit beneath the main tub and on the splined transmission rod.. But Iím stuck as it just wants to spin the trans. I locked the trans from rotating by using a 2x4 but now the spanner wonít move anything. More PB blaster is on it soaking.. I might try a propane torch perhaps tomorrow if nothing else works. The inner ďcasingĒ of this area looks particularly bad.. and is leaking oil constantly ó see attached photo.

Photo 1 : shows the existing transmission style ó flat and horizontal with a counterweight
Photo 2 : shows the replacement transmission ó differential style
Photo 3 : shows the old part that Iím stuck on trying to remove ó yes, the Allen screw has been removed
Photo 4 : shows the part above that will eventually be replaced ó part of the transmission kit


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Post# 1074761 , Reply# 7   5/28/2020 at 20:10 (1,027 days old) by DADoES (TX,†U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture

Your new transmission is the orbital design.† Different internal gearing design, faster/shorter agitation stroke than the original pitman design.† It will retrofit into your machine.


Post# 1074767 , Reply# 8   5/28/2020 at 20:22 (1,027 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

If you're like me and prefer the old school classic Maytag long stroke agitation, the new transmission isn't going to provide it.

 

Stop what you're doing if you'd rather return the new transmission and hold out for the older Pitman style, which is what's on the machine now.  From a brief search I did, they cost about the same as the orbital type.


Post# 1074769 , Reply# 9   5/28/2020 at 20:44 (1,027 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca )        

Ok.. now youíve got me wondering .. whatís the major differences between the two styles of agitation? Does it just regulate how long a ďstrokeĒ is when agitating ó whether (for instance) it spins one direction perhaps 75% and then reverses and the newer style only goes to 50% or something along those lines? I donít frankly know which is better ó and more importantly whether I can get my $ back IF I changed to the old style.. Iíll have to check on that. I was just reading the linked to thread regarding rebuilding the transmission that I have with the big counter balance and in my case Iím wondering what the condition of the internal parts might be like since itís had water infiltration and whether its even worth rebuilding. I think youíre saying though that I can get a new ďold-styleĒ trans somewhere? The local parts place I go to only appears to sell the Orbital style..

They also told me today that the Damper dome is no longer available. Iíve not bothered to double-check to confirm. I also ordered a new motor mount as the rollers are not available separately and according to the pictures in the linked-to thread, the poly rollers are riveted on the tray. This one thing has a 2 week lead time. Oh well..


Post# 1074772 , Reply# 10   5/28/2020 at 21:06 (1,027 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)        

eurekastar's profile picture

The mounting stem on my A407 wouldn't budge no matter what I did, so I had to take my angle grinder to it.  I also installed the new orbital drive transmission; however, I wasn't satisfied with it and found a good pitman style tranny and reinstalled it. 


Post# 1074779 , Reply# 11   5/28/2020 at 21:58 (1,027 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Newer Style Orbital Transmission

combo52's profile picture

This was the single biggest improvement that MT did to the Helical Drive washer in its nearly 50 year production run. [ 1956-2006 ]

 

MT made this change around 1990 several years later they came up with a dual action agitator, This was by far the best agitator in a MT TL washer up till this time. [ you will need a different agitator if you use this better transmission ]

 

The advantages of the newer transmission are faster shorter stroke, which gives better load turn over, slightly greater capacity and better overall cleaning with see fabric wear and less chance of clothing damage.

 

And the new design is easier to service and much safer.

 

 

John L.


Post# 1074782 , Reply# 12   5/28/2020 at 22:14 (1,027 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca )        

Hmm.. thanks for that.. Iíll keep that in mind as I proceed here. Regarding the switch from Pitman to Orbital.. I found another thread here on the site talking about the two and Maytag apparently switched at about the same time this machine was manufactured and mine just happens to have the pitman style. It seems people seem to like that style.

IF I want to rebuild it, Iím wondering if Iím going to run into problems with getting replacement parts that might be in rough shape ó or rusted badly ó including possibly the agitator shaft. Hmm .. things to ponder.


Post# 1074783 , Reply# 13   5/28/2020 at 22:26 (1,026 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture
Don't be afraid to crack the transmission open and take peek inside. There's only 5 gears and a shaft in the lower case and 1 gear attached to a shaft in the upper. Worst case scenario, install the orbital transmission you already have on hand.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO qsd-dan's LINK


Post# 1074788 , Reply# 14   5/28/2020 at 23:50 (1,026 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca )        

I spent a bit of time specíing the parts needed IF I return the orbital trans ó and moving forward that way. I was reading the other thread about not being able to get replacement agitator shafts and he repaired his own.. My local dealer is selling those IF I should need them,.. Maybe they started making them again. Anyway, seems like most of the parts outside of the internal trans parts are available. Iíll consider this over the next few days. Thx!!

Post# 1074792 , Reply# 15   5/29/2020 at 00:21 (1,026 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

After a closer look, the Pitman transmssions I saw on line are not the original type for your washer.  They fit later Maytags produced after Whirlpool took over.  Why they still call them Pitman when they're a short stroke design, I don't know.

 

I'm not a fan of short stroke agitation on any make of machine.  It gets on my nerves.  If you don't mind the frantic chick-chick-chick of short stroke action, install the orbital.   Speed Queens had a long stroke that traveled 210 degrees until they radically changed their design a year or so ago.   I would imagine on classic Maytags the long stroke is similar, accompanied by a satisfying thrum-thrum sound.

 

My A712 was maufactured 33 years ago in May of 1987.  It made it just under the wire and has a Pitman transmission.  I wouldn't have bought it from a private party a few years ago if it had the orbital. 


Post# 1074795 , Reply# 16   5/29/2020 at 00:48 (1,026 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca )        

I guess I lucked out as I didnít know anything about there being two different types of transmissions. Mine was produced in November 1987...

I think Iíve made my mind up to re-build the existing transmission .. Iíve looked up the components that came as part of the Orbital kit (The tub seal & whatnot).. Obviously I wont know about other potential parts til I get the thing apart..

Can I ask one thing? One of you suggested that I should replace the aluminum damper. It took me a bit of time to figure out what part that was referenced, and I was told today at my local store that the damper is no longer available (even though their site claims otherwise). Itís part number 203725. I see other sites claiming its not available anymore. My question is ó why should this be replaced? Just wear because itís aluminum and it wears or ?? I found one that I can obtain but wondering about whether I really need it or not. What happens if I donít replace it?


Post# 1074805 , Reply# 17   5/29/2020 at 01:40 (1,026 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture
The damper was obsoleted in December of 2014 but every single 2 belt Newton made Maytag from 1966-2006 used that exact part. It shouldn't be too difficult to locate a good used one.

The agitator shaft was part# 200730 (2-0730). Towards the end of production, Maytag no longer sold just the shaft by itself but as a kit which included the shaft along with a stem seal and boot kit, part# 22002124. Both of these have long since been obsoleted and no longer readily available nor will they be put back into production again, at least by Whirlpool, anyway. Whatever is floating around in the back of dusty warehouses and small appliance stores is it.


Post# 1074829 , Reply# 18   5/29/2020 at 07:38 (1,026 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Rebuilding a Maytag DC Washer

combo52's profile picture

Hi Rick, When the damper pads get very worn and fall out the aluminum damper doe gets badly worn and scored and if you just replace the pads it is likely the repair won't last long or work well. The dome of the damper is highly polished aluminum, it might be possible to repolish the damaged dome but I have never tried to do so, We have lots of good used ones to sell if you can not find one.

 

Hi Ralph, SQ still makes washers with the long stroke transmission [ TC5000 ] for home use, the big difference between SQ and DC Powerfin agitator washers is SQ has a much better agitator design and a bigger diameter tub. Maytag was the only TL washer in a comparative test to ruin delicate clothing in one washing with this bad agitator design and long stroke transmission.

 

I worked with a Maytag dealer till the end of MT and our customer complaints went way down once they changed transmissions, only problem was turn-over did not improve over the older PF agitator till the came out with the LS dual action agitator.

 

John L.


Post# 1075261 , Reply# 19   6/1/2020 at 15:35 (1,023 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca )        

Ok.. Update for today.. I got the whole enchilada taken apart (except I've not tried disassembling the trans yet). Here's some pics for ya..

In photo 1 you can see that the top of the trans appears to have had water issues in the past -- I did NOT put that there in the process of taking the machine apart. It almost looks like it was sitting in a river silt bed for a while..

I'm not sure where to start with the trans -- I can't get the thin metal collar off the upper shaft. That's the one that's supposed to be lubed before putting it on. It's had water issues I believe as you can see in the photo. Should I cut it off with a grinder? (see photo 3)

Yes, I had to use a grinder to get the tub seal assembly off before I could remove the outer wash basin from the machine. I nicked a few places on the main shaft of the trans but I don't believe they're show stoppers.

Right now oil is dribbling out the top stem of the trans as its sitting on the floor.


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Post# 1075270 , Reply# 20   6/1/2020 at 16:11 (1,023 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca )        

Ok.. I got the sleeve removed from the trans neck.. it broke in pieces after some tapping to loosen it.. solves that problem! Yes, I need a new damper! Itís in bad shape as you predicted.


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Post# 1075276 , Reply# 21   6/1/2020 at 17:15 (1,023 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca )        

My question is whether you believe this is rebuild quality.. Iím concerned about the casing that has the counter balance on it.. the threads on the outside of the case that the two tubs screw onto, are in pretty rough shape..

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Post# 1075286 , Reply# 22   6/1/2020 at 18:20 (1,023 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca )        

Ok.. Can someone tell me why its a bad idea to take the agitator shaft out of the top housing? Iíve read that in the other thread on rebuilding here..

As I was having oil leaking through that shaft area and into the tub, isnít it necessary to rebuild that area completely or am I missing something?


Post# 1075289 , Reply# 23   6/1/2020 at 18:28 (1,023 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Rough Washer

combo52's profile picture

I would look for a better machine, at least for a parts donor, we recycle a lot of MT stack machines and the washer part is usually like new as most of these come out of 1 BR condos and never had much use and weren't in damp basements and were never allowed to leak water.

 

In any case you need a transmission, damper dome, mounting stem and seal kit and probably top tub bearing.

 

John L.


Post# 1075296 , Reply# 24   6/1/2020 at 18:41 (1,023 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca )        

Thanks John.. I found someone selling 6 washers of different makes & models. All are DOA for some reason or another. Heís selling each one for $15.. Heís got an almond Maytag ó Itís roughly the same age I think. I donít know the state of the machine ó whatís dead or ?? I sent the guy a note. Maybe itíll be a good donor as you suggest.

Post# 1075313 , Reply# 25   6/1/2020 at 19:39 (1,023 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

I'd agree that you need too many parts, and the most economical way (or perhaps the only practical way) to get all of them is to find a donor machine.


>> Ok.. Can someone tell me why its a bad idea to take the agitator shaft out of the top housing?
>> Iíve read that in the other thread on rebuilding here..

The reason why is that that pin can be in there REALLY tight, and that sintered gear is easy to damage when driving the pin out. You could also damage the bushing if you weren't careful - you have to make a fixture that supports the gear, not the transmission housing. So the general advice, for machines that seem OK that you are rebuilding for kicks, is to just leave that assembly together. You're likely to do more harm than good in removing it if it doesn't need it.

The groov pin is yet another NLA part too, for what it's worth.


Post# 1075322 , Reply# 26   6/1/2020 at 20:17 (1,023 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca )        

Iíll admit that at this point Iím thinking of just using the brand-new orbital trans sitting in its box in the garage and buy a replacement damper (which I found that looks really good). Then the rest of the rebuild ought to be fairly straightforward and I can put this rebuild behind me.. I know thereís some difference between the Pitman vs Orbital but my garage is getting full and Iím not sure Iíve got space to bring another washer home at this point. Doh!

Post# 1075332 , Reply# 27   6/1/2020 at 21:15 (1,023 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture
You could certainly do that, but take note that you would need a replacement agitator as well...

Post# 1075337 , Reply# 28   6/1/2020 at 21:24 (1,023 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca )        

Dang.. Thereís always a hitch!!

Post# 1075339 , Reply# 29   6/1/2020 at 21:27 (1,023 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Orbital Transmission In a MT A712

combo52's profile picture

Yes you would want to get a Load-Sensor agitator, and if you convert to a 50 cycle pulley and belts then you will have a serious machine that can start to run with the better TL washers from its era.

 

Is this machine going to be your only washer and how much use will it get ?.

 

.John L.


Post# 1075358 , Reply# 30   6/1/2020 at 22:26 (1,022 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca )        

Whatever I get working, will be my primary machine ó the better it can deal with dirty loads, the better. I heard back from the $15 maytag guy and he said a plastic piece that holds the discharge tube was broken in a move but was otherwise functional. Sounds like a deal to me! Iím not sure of the vintage but its in almond and has a similar (but simpler) control panel...

Post# 1075391 , Reply# 31   6/2/2020 at 06:40 (1,022 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca )        

Stupid question.. IF this possible donor machine has a light green agitator like my current fix-it machine has, is it safe to assume thereís a Pitman transmission in the machine? But if the color is of the agitator is something else, that itís likely got an orbital trans..??

Iím just trying to line up my ducks for the time when I get the opportunity to look at this possible donor so that I can have some confidence of what it might be configuration wise. Iím hoping to take a driver with me to remove one of the big circles on the back of the machine and possibly see the state of things inside without pulling the front panel off.


Post# 1075393 , Reply# 32   6/2/2020 at 06:49 (1,022 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Possible Donor Machine

combo52's profile picture

Hi rick, It sounds like this could be a good donor, some of the early Orbital trans machines had a turquoise but different style agitator, so it could be either transmission.

 

Big question is whether it is the smaller 16 gallon tub or the larger 19 gallon tub machine like you have now, The transmissions are different, but you could use the top cover and shaft from the 16 gallon machine on your lower part if it is a PT.

 

I would check it out, the damper is likely good as well.

 

John L.


Post# 1075394 , Reply# 33   6/2/2020 at 06:50 (1,022 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Possible Donor Machine

combo52's profile picture

Hi rick, It sounds like this could be a good donor, some of the early Orbital trans machines had a turquoise but different style agitator, so it could be either transmission.

 

Big question is whether it is the smaller 16 gallon tub or the larger 19 gallon tub machine like you have now, The transmissions are different, but you could use the top cover and shaft from the 16 gallon machine on your lower part if it is a PT.

 

I would check it out, the damper is likely good as well.

 

John L.


Post# 1075876 , Reply# 34   6/5/2020 at 12:28 (1,019 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca )        

ok.. So the PT transmissions are different depending on the tub size? Ok.. but some parts of the trans might be usable.

One question though -- in my search for a donor.. John -- you mention Maytag Stackables as potential donors .. Would these have a damper that might fit -- I'm assuming not but thought I'd ask. my $15 donor I've yet to see.. I know the control panel has fewer buttons on it but still don't know the model. I went to look at it yesterday but the guy selling it wasn't apparently home. Doh!


Post# 1075893 , Reply# 35   6/5/2020 at 14:26 (1,019 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca )        

Another stupid question.. I decided to give the agitator shaft a little play time.. Iím gonna try to remove the gear and drive the pin out that holds the gear on. On the outside of the case (the tub end of the agitator shaft), I removed a spring wrapped around the shaft and beneath that was a very thin copper colored washer..

So.. Is it safe to assume I can get a punch and drive that pin out ó assuming that I support the agitator shaft properly to keep stress to a minimum?


Post# 1075894 , Reply# 36   6/5/2020 at 14:27 (1,019 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca )        

I forgot to show the pic of it..

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Post# 1075906 , Reply# 37   6/5/2020 at 15:52 (1,019 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca )        

Ok.. I was able to use a 1/4Ē punch and pop that pin out without as much effort as I expected. The shaft is out and frankly looks better than I expected. If thereís supposed to be a rubber seal on this shaft somewhere, I found none. There was a very thin metal washer that was behind the gear and behind that is a washer/spring thing and that was it.

My concern is whether I can reuse the agitator shaft or not. The reason I mention this, is that the collar that is on it near the tub end has a thru crack in it as you can see in the photo. Is that enough to cause water/oil contamination either way? Seems rather small for that.


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Post# 1075908 , Reply# 38   6/5/2020 at 15:56 (1,019 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca )        

I can still get the agitator seal (#WP210690) without issue (which was not present in mine for whatever reason) and I need to order the gasket. Iím thinking that the agitator shaft maybe usable in its current state... If I can ensure the rubber seal works as expected to keep water/oil from mixing then this should be good and its mostly a matter of finding a replacement damper..

Speaking of dampers ó for this era washer are they pretty much the same regardless of machine model?


Post# 1075926 , Reply# 39   6/5/2020 at 18:12 (1,019 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Agitator Shaft

combo52's profile picture
Hi Rick, You need another shaft, The MT stack washers have the correct transmission and damper for the large tub MTs, If you find an early stack it will even have the old style Pittman transmission.

Post# 1075929 , Reply# 40   6/5/2020 at 19:06 (1,019 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture
There should be no lateral play in the upper agitator shaft nor should it leak oil when turned upside down. The shaft is toast, as well as the sleeve bearings.

12 series upper transmission housings are not compatible with previous models. A 12 series housing is only compatible with the 12 series transmission. It's probably easier to find another complete transmission (any tall tub transmission from 1966-1989 will work) and go from there rather than trying to locate an upper 12 series housing. However, if you want to go that route, the smaller tub transmission housings generally have less wear and tear on the upper shaft and bearings.


Post# 1075930 , Reply# 41   6/5/2020 at 19:09 (1,019 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca )        

Ok.. thanks for that. Do I need to know what years/models are valid if I go with a stackable as a parts donor? I just donít wanna buy a random stackable and find out itís not a matchÖ Hope that makes sense

Maybe itís any of them..?

I will admit it would be nice to find another Pitman transmissionÖ As the threads on this one for the tub hold down is buggered up and I cannot seem to thread on the new hold down. Because of that, Iím a little dubious as to whether I can use this transmission in its current state with those buggered up threads


Post# 1075953 , Reply# 42   6/5/2020 at 21:55 (1,019 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca )        

Hey guys.. I found a local guy giving away (free) a 1967 HA-207 Maytag ó for parts or scrap. He says the water inlet & water level areas are leaky but that it washes and drains w/o issue. It seems to fit the timeline of a possible transmission donor (or fix it as-is) ó from the photos it looks as though it may be in better condition than my prime machine. Iím not sure what sort of capabilities this machine has over my current LA-712 but for free, I canít skip on this one..

Post# 1075956 , Reply# 43   6/5/2020 at 22:16 (1,019 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture
If it's a 207, it's probably a 1976. Small tub machine so a transmission swap won't work. Sadly, neither will the upper transmission housing for the 712 but it may come in handy if you end up using an older transmission from a large tub model. The machine would be worth it simply for the damper dome if it's unscathed.

Post# 1075957 , Reply# 44   6/5/2020 at 22:20 (1,019 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca )        

Hereís the two pics ó if this jogs any thoughts..

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Post# 1076219 , Reply# 45   6/7/2020 at 16:35 (1,017 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca )        

Ok. I got the above pictured Ď76 standard sized Maytag in harvest gold .. HA207, series 01, SN #293106YK.. I may make this my prime machine.. it appears to be in better shape.. the water level sensor appears to not work and maybe issues with the water inlet, but otherwise good so Iím told

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Post# 1076227 , Reply# 46   6/7/2020 at 17:32 (1,017 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture
Looks like a great deal for that machine. The smaller tubs can be nice, for small loads you don't have to dive in to reach things at the bottom!

The "water inlet leak" could be the sleeve injector / nozzle. The rubber gets crusty and hardened after 50 years of use, and they don't work the way they are supposed to. The repair piece is less than $6 on eBay, so that's a cheap fix.

I have a bunch of photos of the parts in my A408 thread:
www.automaticwasher.org/c...


Post# 1076240 , Reply# 47   6/7/2020 at 18:22 (1,017 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca )        

I bought a new water level pressure switch off eBay.. NOS.. $35 instead of $105 special order.. Iíll try hooking water up at some point.. for now itís tucked away in the garage. Itís nice to find both of these were single owner machines..

Post# 1076433 , Reply# 48   6/8/2020 at 23:52 (1,015 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca )        

I was talking to my brothers about the damper needing to be highly polished.. They wanted to know why.. My best guess is that the damper needs to have room to wiggle at a high rate and if the damper has scratchy bits on it, it may tear up the damper pads and rip them up ó like mine did. Is that more or less the reasoning...??

I will admit that I spent a little time today using different grit sand paper and hand cleaning up the old damper and smoothed it out considerably ó got rid of 90-95% of the pitting and ridges. Thereís room for improvement with more hand work and some aluminum polish but itís something I would consider trying if nothing else pans out..


Post# 1076452 , Reply# 49   6/9/2020 at 06:44 (1,015 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Polished Damper Dome

combo52's profile picture

Yes the idea was to have a very smooth surface to rub against the moving dome, I would guess if you get it smith enough it will probably last a pretty good while.

 

These damper pads were differently one of the weak design areas of MT DC washers, If one was designing a machine like this today you would use molded Delrin rings or pads that would snap into holes in the base or even a floating ring like Speed Queen or FD or even Norge used.

 

John L.


Post# 1076517 , Reply# 50   6/9/2020 at 23:24 (1,014 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca )        

Thanks John..

Just a quick side note question.. I paid to upgrade my membership about 2 weeks ago (give or take), but nothing has changed ó Iím still not upgraded.. I sent a note to the contact address but heard nothing back perhaps 3-4 days ago.. Is there someone in particular I should pester about this? Thx!


Post# 1076528 , Reply# 51   6/10/2020 at 00:43 (1,014 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca )        

Ok.. one more question for yaíll.. someone local is selling an A211 series 10.. it looks to be from the 80ís based on the controls.. it looks like a late 80ís or perhaps early 90ís.. I gather it can have either transmission.. is this a standard sized machine? Iím guessing so but thought Iíd ask as I couldnít find the specs elsewhere. Thx.. if itís a large/extra large capacity with pitman trans, maybe it could make a decent donor machine for my LA712...

Post# 1076530 , Reply# 52   6/10/2020 at 01:10 (1,014 days old) by DADoES (TX,†U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture

Website technical issues, contact webmaster@automaticwasher.org


Post# 1076562 , Reply# 53   6/10/2020 at 08:54 (1,014 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca )        

Thanks DadoEs! I got that sorted out!

Post# 1076585 , Reply# 54   6/10/2020 at 12:27 (1,014 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture
On the A211, look for the presence of "shark fins" on the agitator. If it has them, it is most likely an orbital trans, and if it doesn't, it is most likely a pitman transmission.

(I say "most likely", because these machines are 30-40 years old, and could have had any transmission swapped into them during a prior repair.)

Photos in this thread:
www.automaticwasher.org/c...


Post# 1076600 , Reply# 55   6/10/2020 at 13:27 (1,014 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca )        

Thanks!! Itís got fewer buttons and the agitator matches what you described.. small shark fins adjacent/offset from the regular bigger fins.. Iíll assume itís an orbital. And will probably pass.. thx! Iím getting better at this!!

Post# 1164278 , Reply# 56   11/19/2022 at 01:00 by Chef (California)        

An ebay buyer bought a rebuild orbital transmission and left a review that says:

by kirbert2002

Nov 07, 2017

Fix your well-made washer, don't replace it with modern junk!

I couldn't find a new washing machine that was worth a ^*%$^ other than Speed Queen, so we decided to repair our old Maytag instead. Replaced my original helical transmission with this orbital, which fit perfectly and works fine. The only problem was a tap broken off in the thread in the bottom of the input shaft, but I managed to get most of it out and installed a slightly shorter screw.

Note: The original helical transmission oscillates the agitator about 190 degrees, and relatively slowly and gently. The new orbital transmission oscillates the agitator about 100 degrees and very quickly and violently. The wife reports that this does seem to be harder on clothes, with her noticing more wear on some of her daintier garments. The old helical transmission just had a leaking O-ring seal in the bottom end (an O-ring should never be used as a running seal, which Maytag apparently learned later on, the new orbital transmissions have a proper lip seal), so I may eventually rebuild the helical with a new O-ring and reinstall it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/194513639955QUE...

So the orbital transmission is rougher on the clothes?


Post# 1164301 , Reply# 57   11/19/2022 at 12:25 by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

>> So the orbital transmission is rougher on the clothes?

It will be if you don't replace the agitator.


Post# 1164310 , Reply# 58   11/19/2022 at 14:25 by qsd-dan (West)        
So the orbital transmission is rougher on the clothes?

qsd-dan's profile picture
That's what found with the several that came through here. I actually found the Powerfin agitator to be gentler on clothing since it doesn't have thin sharp edges and that stupid wanna be Norge like shark fin near the top. A 2 speed motor is essential washing anything below standard capacity water/clothes level though. With the exception of the load sensor agitator, the large capacity models struggle to roll over the load. My personal opinion is that Maytag did not use large enough fins at the bottom for the larger tub models.

Post# 1164478 , Reply# 59   11/21/2022 at 16:52 by Chef (California)        

If people had issues of agitation being too rough on delicate clothing, couldn't they select the wash and spin speed to regular slow, gentle slow, or gentle fast?
Also the dial pad has a start point for delicates.

I'm rebuilding a pitman but if the orbital is easier to rebuild or purchase and isn't rough on delicate clothing, I might consider it.


Post# 1165449 , Reply# 60   12/2/2022 at 22:12 by Chef (California)        

In the diagram, it looks like the agitator for the orbital transmission has additional small fins. I would think the orbital agitator would be rougher on the clothes than using the pitman transmission agitator?

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Post# 1165500 , Reply# 61   12/3/2022 at 11:58 by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

What those diagrams aren't showing is that the later agitator with the "shark fins" is smaller in diameter at the base.

So for an equivalent amount of rotation, the outer edge of the fins moves a smaller distance on the newer agitator. It also, by being smaller, provides more free space for the clothes at the bottom to move around in. The two of those combine to make it more gentile on clothes - countering some of the effects of the more rapid short-stroke agitation of the newer transmission.


Post# 1165511 , Reply# 62   12/3/2022 at 15:45 by Chef (California)        

Ok sounds good to me. I'll continue rebuilding the pitman and before picking up an orbital, I need to locate an orbital agitator. It looks like there's 2 orbital agitator models? And if I can find an orbital agitator, hopefully it'll come with the filter housing and fabric softener thing. I found a picture of an agitator but it looks different than in the diagram

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Post# 1165525 , Reply# 63   12/3/2022 at 17:55 by wayupnorth (On a lake between Bangor and Bar Harbor, Maine)        

wayupnorth's profile picture
My LA511 from 1984 does not have that last agitator picture. I dont remember or care what transmission it has but it is an old school Maytag from Newton IA and sounds the same as my sisters 1963 Maytag did. Mine fills to the top, washes a big load fine and cost me a $28 part in all those years, thanks to AW members. I will never get rid of my Maytag washer and dryer as the only thing a new Maytag has in common with mine is the logo.

Post# 1165865 , Reply# 64   12/6/2022 at 20:57 by Chef (California)        

Is this the correct agitator for the orbital trans?

Part #: WP207538
www.unlimitedappliancepar...


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Post# 1165869 , Reply# 65   12/6/2022 at 21:27 by drummerboy928 (Illinois)        

drummerboy928's profile picture
That appears to be the newer style of the ďshark finĒ that is found in the Dependable Care machines with orbital transmissions.

Post# 1165961 , Reply# 66   12/7/2022 at 18:24 by Chef (California)        

Which orbital agitator works best?

Post# 1165962 , Reply# 67   12/7/2022 at 18:28 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Best Maytag Agitator

combo52's profile picture

The load sensor by a mile.

 

John


Post# 1166370 , Reply# 68   12/12/2022 at 00:12 by Chef (California)        

Thanks. Are these the ones? Is there a model number? I've seen different versions

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Post# 1166388 , Reply# 69   12/12/2022 at 06:20 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Maytag Load Sensor Agitator

combo52's profile picture

The 1st one is the correct one the 2nd one won't work.

 

Most any Maytag Washer model that starts with LTA....... would have the correct agitator if it looks like # 1.

 

John 


Post# 1166696 , Reply# 70   12/15/2022 at 23:01 by Chef (California)        

I can't find Maytag washers starting with LTA but I found several starting with LAT.

The first pic agitator has a notch on the bottom four small fins, part number WP22004042.

The second pic agitator doesn't have a notch on the bottom four small fins, part number W11550891.

Either one will work?


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Post# 1166731 , Reply# 71   12/16/2022 at 07:48 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
LAT. LTA

combo52's profile picture

Sorry about that, LTA is a 1969 Whirlpool washer.

 

You only want the first agitator in your picture, the 2nd one will not fit a real 2 belt Maytag Washer.

 

John L.


Post# 1166732 , Reply# 72   12/16/2022 at 08:22 by maranoman (Des Moines, Iowa)        
Part Number for Load Sensor Agitator/Dispenser

maranoman's profile picture
The correct part number for the load sensor agitator base assembly that you are seeking is 22001821. The fabric dispenser housing is 22001805. The fabric dispenser cup is 22001806. The agitator locking screw is 22001819.

Several are available on eBay, although not cheap.


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Post# 1167494 , Reply# 73   12/25/2022 at 00:16 by Chef (California)        

Merry Christmas everyone!

It seems the agitator is available new but the fabric dispenser housing and the fabric dispenser cup isn't available new.



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