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Thread Number: 83118
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Questions regarding Maytag LA712 refurb (series 04) |
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Post# 1074156 , Reply# 1 5/24/2020 at 21:30 (1,031 days old) by combo52  (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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LA-712 Rebuild Hi Rick, you don't need motor rollers, you may not need belts unless the larger main drive belt is badly worn, they are supposed to be very loose.
You do need damper pads and an aluminum damper dome.
You probably need a main tub seal kit and maybe a transmission depending on the condition of the agitator shaft in the upper seal area.
You have a very big but doable project ahead of you, we are here to help if you want spend the time and a few hundred bucks on this washer.
John L. | ||
| Post# 1074169 , Reply# 2 5/24/2020 at 22:38 (1,030 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca ) | ||
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Thanks John.. I actually started taking things apart until I couldn’t go any further. Here’s a pic of the tub with the agitator removed. Thoughts? | ||
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Post# 1074218 , Reply# 3 5/25/2020 at 08:08 (1,030 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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LA-712 Rebuild | ||
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Post# 1074321 , Reply# 4 5/25/2020 at 21:16 (1,030 days old) by qsd-dan (West) |
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Full tear down and rebuild with this guy, which is the best approach for long term reliability, anyway. Best to do it while most of the parts are still accessible.
It'll certainly need a new damper and damper pads. A fresh coat of paint on the base wouldn't be a bad idea while it's all apart. Stem and boot seal are a given and a new spin bearing is just a couple of more steps. I agree with John that the transmission has a good possibility of water contamination with grease coming out like that. This makes a transmission tear down inevitable. I'd even say that the shaft needs to be removed from the upper housing and inspected (a real pain if you've never experience this but not nearly as bad as pre 1975 machines). Any water contamination here will quickly take out both the shaft and sleeve bearings. Removal of the upper shaft is the only possible way to gauge immediate problems. Motor carriage will certainly need attention. I've never come across a 20+ year old Maytag that doesn't at minimum need the tracks cleaned and regreased. Reusing the rollers/glides would be foolish at this stage. This area is important for proper agitation and crucial in the spin department, so don't skimp here. New belts are a must after putting that kind of work in, but get the real deal, no aftermarket junk. It's a great machine to learn on and worst case scenario, find another 1980-1993 tall tub Maytag washer and swap the control panel over (and motor, if a single speed) and you're set to go. The link below is from a member who performed a detailed rebuild sometime back, which will give you an idea what's involved and help you along the way if you decide to go that route. The only noteable difference is that your '87 will have a lip seal at the bottom of the transmission tube vs an o-ring inside the lower housing. There's a Youtube clip on how to replace this seal without using the special tool. CLICK HERE TO GO TO qsd-dan's LINK | ||
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Post# 1074761 , Reply# 7 5/28/2020 at 20:10 (1,027 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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Post# 1074767 , Reply# 8 5/28/2020 at 20:22 (1,027 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay) |
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 If you're like me and prefer the old school classic Maytag long stroke agitation, the new transmission isn't going to provide it.
Stop what you're doing if you'd rather return the new transmission and hold out for the older Pitman style, which is what's on the machine now. From a brief search I did, they cost about the same as the orbital type. | ||
| Post# 1074772 , Reply# 10 5/28/2020 at 21:06 (1,027 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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Post# 1074779 , Reply# 11 5/28/2020 at 21:58 (1,027 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Newer Style Orbital Transmission This was the single biggest improvement that MT did to the Helical Drive washer in its nearly 50 year production run. [ 1956-2006 ]
MT made this change around 1990 several years later they came up with a dual action agitator, This was by far the best agitator in a MT TL washer up till this time. [ you will need a different agitator if you use this better transmission ]
The advantages of the newer transmission are faster shorter stroke, which gives better load turn over, slightly greater capacity and better overall cleaning with see fabric wear and less chance of clothing damage.
And the new design is easier to service and much safer.
John L. | ||
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Post# 1074783 , Reply# 13 5/28/2020 at 22:26 (1,026 days old) by qsd-dan (West) |
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Don't be afraid to crack the transmission open and take peek inside. There's only 5 gears and a shaft in the lower case and 1 gear attached to a shaft in the upper. Worst case scenario, install the orbital transmission you already have on hand.
CLICK HERE TO GO TO qsd-dan's LINK | ||
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Post# 1074792 , Reply# 15 5/29/2020 at 00:21 (1,026 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay) |
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After a closer look, the Pitman transmssions I saw on line are not the original type for your washer. They fit later Maytags produced after Whirlpool took over. Why they still call them Pitman when they're a short stroke design, I don't know.
I'm not a fan of short stroke agitation on any make of machine. It gets on my nerves. If you don't mind the frantic chick-chick-chick of short stroke action, install the orbital. Speed Queens had a long stroke that traveled 210 degrees until they radically changed their design a year or so ago. I would imagine on classic Maytags the long stroke is similar, accompanied by a satisfying thrum-thrum sound.
My A712 was maufactured 33 years ago in May of 1987. It made it just under the wire and has a Pitman transmission. I wouldn't have bought it from a private party a few years ago if it had the orbital. | ||
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Post# 1074805 , Reply# 17 5/29/2020 at 01:40 (1,026 days old) by qsd-dan (West) |
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The damper was obsoleted in December of 2014 but every single 2 belt Newton made Maytag from 1966-2006 used that exact part. It shouldn't be too difficult to locate a good used one.
The agitator shaft was part# 200730 (2-0730). Towards the end of production, Maytag no longer sold just the shaft by itself but as a kit which included the shaft along with a stem seal and boot kit, part# 22002124. Both of these have long since been obsoleted and no longer readily available nor will they be put back into production again, at least by Whirlpool, anyway. Whatever is floating around in the back of dusty warehouses and small appliance stores is it. | ||
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Post# 1074829 , Reply# 18 5/29/2020 at 07:38 (1,026 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Rebuilding a Maytag DC Washer Hi Rick, When the damper pads get very worn and fall out the aluminum damper doe gets badly worn and scored and if you just replace the pads it is likely the repair won't last long or work well. The dome of the damper is highly polished aluminum, it might be possible to repolish the damaged dome but I have never tried to do so, We have lots of good used ones to sell if you can not find one.
Hi Ralph, SQ still makes washers with the long stroke transmission [ TC5000 ] for home use, the big difference between SQ and DC Powerfin agitator washers is SQ has a much better agitator design and a bigger diameter tub. Maytag was the only TL washer in a comparative test to ruin delicate clothing in one washing with this bad agitator design and long stroke transmission.
I worked with a Maytag dealer till the end of MT and our customer complaints went way down once they changed transmissions, only problem was turn-over did not improve over the older PF agitator till the came out with the LS dual action agitator.
John L. | ||
| Post# 1075270 , Reply# 20 6/1/2020 at 16:11 (1,023 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca ) | ||
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Ok.. I got the sleeve removed from the trans neck.. it broke in pieces after some tapping to loosen it.. solves that problem! Yes, I need a new damper! It’s in bad shape as you predicted. | ||
| Post# 1075276 , Reply# 21 6/1/2020 at 17:15 (1,023 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca ) | ||
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My question is whether you believe this is rebuild quality.. I’m concerned about the casing that has the counter balance on it.. the threads on the outside of the case that the two tubs screw onto, are in pretty rough shape..
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| Post# 1075286 , Reply# 22 6/1/2020 at 18:20 (1,023 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca ) | ||
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Ok.. Can someone tell me why its a bad idea to take the agitator shaft out of the top housing? I’ve read that in the other thread on rebuilding here.. As I was having oil leaking through that shaft area and into the tub, isn’t it necessary to rebuild that area completely or am I missing something? | ||
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Post# 1075289 , Reply# 23 6/1/2020 at 18:28 (1,023 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Rough Washer I would look for a better machine, at least for a parts donor, we recycle a lot of MT stack machines and the washer part is usually like new as most of these come out of 1 BR condos and never had much use and weren't in damp basements and were never allowed to leak water.
In any case you need a transmission, damper dome, mounting stem and seal kit and probably top tub bearing.
John L. | ||
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Post# 1075313 , Reply# 25 6/1/2020 at 19:39 (1,023 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
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 I'd agree that you need too many parts, and the most economical way (or perhaps the only practical way) to get all of them is to find a donor machine. >> Ok.. Can someone tell me why its a bad idea to take the agitator shaft out of the top housing? >> I’ve read that in the other thread on rebuilding here.. The reason why is that that pin can be in there REALLY tight, and that sintered gear is easy to damage when driving the pin out. You could also damage the bushing if you weren't careful - you have to make a fixture that supports the gear, not the transmission housing. So the general advice, for machines that seem OK that you are rebuilding for kicks, is to just leave that assembly together. You're likely to do more harm than good in removing it if it doesn't need it. The groov pin is yet another NLA part too, for what it's worth. | ||
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Post# 1075332 , Reply# 27 6/1/2020 at 21:15 (1,023 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
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| Post# 1075337 , Reply# 28 6/1/2020 at 21:24 (1,023 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca ) | ||
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Dang.. There’s always a hitch!! | ||
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Post# 1075339 , Reply# 29 6/1/2020 at 21:27 (1,023 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Orbital Transmission In a MT A712 | ||
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Post# 1075393 , Reply# 32 6/2/2020 at 06:49 (1,022 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Possible Donor Machine Hi rick, It sounds like this could be a good donor, some of the early Orbital trans machines had a turquoise but different style agitator, so it could be either transmission.
Big question is whether it is the smaller 16 gallon tub or the larger 19 gallon tub machine like you have now, The transmissions are different, but you could use the top cover and shaft from the 16 gallon machine on your lower part if it is a PT.
I would check it out, the damper is likely good as well.
John L. | ||
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Post# 1075394 , Reply# 33 6/2/2020 at 06:50 (1,022 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Possible Donor Machine Hi rick, It sounds like this could be a good donor, some of the early Orbital trans machines had a turquoise but different style agitator, so it could be either transmission.
Big question is whether it is the smaller 16 gallon tub or the larger 19 gallon tub machine like you have now, The transmissions are different, but you could use the top cover and shaft from the 16 gallon machine on your lower part if it is a PT.
I would check it out, the damper is likely good as well.
John L. | ||
| Post# 1075894 , Reply# 36 6/5/2020 at 14:27 (1,019 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca ) | ||
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I forgot to show the pic of it..
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Post# 1075926 , Reply# 39 6/5/2020 at 18:12 (1,019 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Agitator Shaft | ||
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Post# 1075929 , Reply# 40 6/5/2020 at 19:06 (1,019 days old) by qsd-dan (West) |
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There should be no lateral play in the upper agitator shaft nor should it leak oil when turned upside down. The shaft is toast, as well as the sleeve bearings.
12 series upper transmission housings are not compatible with previous models. A 12 series housing is only compatible with the 12 series transmission. It's probably easier to find another complete transmission (any tall tub transmission from 1966-1989 will work) and go from there rather than trying to locate an upper 12 series housing. However, if you want to go that route, the smaller tub transmission housings generally have less wear and tear on the upper shaft and bearings. | ||
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Post# 1075956 , Reply# 43 6/5/2020 at 22:16 (1,019 days old) by qsd-dan (West) |
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If it's a 207, it's probably a 1976. Small tub machine so a transmission swap won't work. Sadly, neither will the upper transmission housing for the 712 but it may come in handy if you end up using an older transmission from a large tub model. The machine would be worth it simply for the damper dome if it's unscathed.
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| Post# 1075957 , Reply# 44 6/5/2020 at 22:20 (1,019 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca ) | ||
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Here’s the two pics — if this jogs any thoughts.. | ||
| Post# 1076219 , Reply# 45 6/7/2020 at 16:35 (1,017 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca ) | ||
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Ok. I got the above pictured ‘76 standard sized Maytag in harvest gold .. HA207, series 01, SN #293106YK.. I may make this my prime machine.. it appears to be in better shape.. the water level sensor appears to not work and maybe issues with the water inlet, but otherwise good so I’m told | ||
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Post# 1076227 , Reply# 46 6/7/2020 at 17:32 (1,017 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
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Looks like a great deal for that machine. The smaller tubs can be nice, for small loads you don't have to dive in to reach things at the bottom!
The "water inlet leak" could be the sleeve injector / nozzle. The rubber gets crusty and hardened after 50 years of use, and they don't work the way they are supposed to. The repair piece is less than $6 on eBay, so that's a cheap fix. I have a bunch of photos of the parts in my A408 thread: www.automaticwasher.org/c... | ||
| Post# 1076240 , Reply# 47 6/7/2020 at 18:22 (1,017 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca ) | ||
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I bought a new water level pressure switch off eBay.. NOS.. $35 instead of $105 special order.. I’ll try hooking water up at some point.. for now it’s tucked away in the garage. It’s nice to find both of these were single owner machines.. | ||
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Post# 1076452 , Reply# 49 6/9/2020 at 06:44 (1,015 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Polished Damper Dome Yes the idea was to have a very smooth surface to rub against the moving dome, I would guess if you get it smith enough it will probably last a pretty good while.
These damper pads were differently one of the weak design areas of MT DC washers, If one was designing a machine like this today you would use molded Delrin rings or pads that would snap into holes in the base or even a floating ring like Speed Queen or FD or even Norge used.
John L. | ||
| Post# 1076517 , Reply# 50 6/9/2020 at 23:24 (1,014 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca ) | ||
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Thanks John.. Just a quick side note question.. I paid to upgrade my membership about 2 weeks ago (give or take), but nothing has changed — I’m still not upgraded.. I sent a note to the contact address but heard nothing back perhaps 3-4 days ago.. Is there someone in particular I should pester about this? Thx! | ||
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Post# 1076530 , Reply# 52 6/10/2020 at 01:10 (1,014 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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| Post# 1076562 , Reply# 53 6/10/2020 at 08:54 (1,014 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca ) | ||
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Thanks DadoEs! I got that sorted out! | ||
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Post# 1076585 , Reply# 54 6/10/2020 at 12:27 (1,014 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
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On the A211, look for the presence of "shark fins" on the agitator. If it has them, it is most likely an orbital trans, and if it doesn't, it is most likely a pitman transmission.
(I say "most likely", because these machines are 30-40 years old, and could have had any transmission swapped into them during a prior repair.) Photos in this thread: www.automaticwasher.org/c... | ||
| Post# 1076600 , Reply# 55 6/10/2020 at 13:27 (1,014 days old) by ps91Rick (Lancaster, Ca ) | ||
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Thanks!! It’s got fewer buttons and the agitator matches what you described.. small shark fins adjacent/offset from the regular bigger fins.. I’ll assume it’s an orbital. And will probably pass.. thx! I’m getting better at this!! | ||
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Post# 1164301 , Reply# 57 11/19/2022 at 12:25 by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
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Post# 1164310 , Reply# 58 11/19/2022 at 14:25 by qsd-dan (West) |
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So the orbital transmission is rougher on the clothes?
That's what found with the several that came through here. I actually found the Powerfin agitator to be gentler on clothing since it doesn't have thin sharp edges and that stupid wanna be Norge like shark fin near the top. A 2 speed motor is essential washing anything below standard capacity water/clothes level though. With the exception of the load sensor agitator, the large capacity models struggle to roll over the load. My personal opinion is that Maytag did not use large enough fins at the bottom for the larger tub models.
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| Post# 1165449 , Reply# 60 12/2/2022 at 22:12 by Chef (California) | ||
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In the diagram, it looks like the agitator for the orbital transmission has additional small fins. I would think the orbital agitator would be rougher on the clothes than using the pitman transmission agitator?
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Post# 1165500 , Reply# 61 12/3/2022 at 11:58 by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
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What those diagrams aren't showing is that the later agitator with the "shark fins" is smaller in diameter at the base. So for an equivalent amount of rotation, the outer edge of the fins moves a smaller distance on the newer agitator. It also, by being smaller, provides more free space for the clothes at the bottom to move around in. The two of those combine to make it more gentile on clothes - countering some of the effects of the more rapid short-stroke agitation of the newer transmission. | ||
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Post# 1165525 , Reply# 63 12/3/2022 at 17:55 by wayupnorth (On a lake between Bangor and Bar Harbor, Maine) |
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My LA511 from 1984 does not have that last agitator picture. I dont remember or care what transmission it has but it is an old school Maytag from Newton IA and sounds the same as my sisters 1963 Maytag did. Mine fills to the top, washes a big load fine and cost me a $28 part in all those years, thanks to AW members. I will never get rid of my Maytag washer and dryer as the only thing a new Maytag has in common with mine is the logo.
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| Post# 1165865 , Reply# 64 12/6/2022 at 20:57 by Chef (California) | ||
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Is this the correct agitator for the orbital trans? Part #: WP207538 www.unlimitedappliancepar...
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| Post# 1165869 , Reply# 65 12/6/2022 at 21:27 by drummerboy928 (Illinois) | ||
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| Post# 1165961 , Reply# 66 12/7/2022 at 18:24 by Chef (California) | ||
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Which orbital agitator works best? | ||
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Post# 1165962 , Reply# 67 12/7/2022 at 18:28 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Best Maytag Agitator | ||
| Post# 1166370 , Reply# 68 12/12/2022 at 00:12 by Chef (California) | ||
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Thanks. Are these the ones? Is there a model number? I've seen different versions | ||
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Post# 1166388 , Reply# 69 12/12/2022 at 06:20 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Maytag Load Sensor Agitator | ||
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Post# 1166731 , Reply# 71 12/16/2022 at 07:48 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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LAT. LTA | ||
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Post# 1166732 , Reply# 72 12/16/2022 at 08:22 by maranoman (Des Moines, Iowa) |
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Part Number for Load Sensor Agitator/Dispenser
The correct part number for the load sensor agitator base assembly that you are seeking is 22001821. The fabric dispenser housing is 22001805. The fabric dispenser cup is 22001806. The agitator locking screw is 22001819.
Several are available on eBay, although not cheap. | ||
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