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Thread Number: 83449
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Replacing porcelain tub with stainless steel |
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Post# 1077695 , Reply# 1 6/18/2020 at 11:52 (1,269 days old) by combo52  (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Rusty-Stinky Washer You can use the SS tub to replace your porcelain tub, we have done it.
Keep in mind that the reason the tub is rusting and the washer stinks is you are using way too little detergent for water conditions in your area.
This is the reason TL washers don't clean as well as FL machines, most people do not use enough hot water and detergent.
The only way I will use a TL washer is if I can reuse the wash water to wash another load because by the time you invest in enough water softener detergent etc it is just to costly and wasteful to use a TL washer properly.
John L. | ||
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Post# 1077711 , Reply# 3 6/18/2020 at 13:27 (1,269 days old) by appnut (TX) |
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 Washing only in cold water is another one of your problem causes as to why it stinks so bad. I have a Whirlpool Duet front loader and I only wash on temperature settings of sanitize, allergen, hot and warm. 95% of the time I use cycles that has the heater engage to maintain water temps. My washer has no odor!!! I have very hard water. | ||
| Post# 1077714 , Reply# 4 6/18/2020 at 13:55 (1,269 days old) by PatD (PA) | ||
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Thanks for the info. Good to know. The amount of gunk on the outer tub at the top is crazy! | ||
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Post# 1077791 , Reply# 8 6/18/2020 at 22:44 (1,269 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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 So you're presumably referring to the neck of the porcelain basket being rusted (I've never seen one that wasn't). What's the condition of the tub centerpost? Cold water doesn't effectively keep greasy soils melted for flushing away. Scum accumulates, particularly at the water line on the interior of the outer tub and exterior of the inner basket ... kinda like dirty dishwater left to cool in a sink. | ||
| Post# 1077820 , Reply# 9 6/19/2020 at 06:10 (1,269 days old) by PatD (PA) | ||
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See below (2 photos) - does that help? | ||
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Post# 1077840 , Reply# 10 6/19/2020 at 10:06 (1,268 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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Ahh, so you haven't yet pulled the basket? The inside the basket neck is likely more rusted than the exterior that you see. The tub centerpost is *under* the neck of the basket, houses the spin and agitate drive shafts and bearings. Can't see it until the basket is removed. This was my mother's 1999 Kenmore after 6 years of use in primarily cold water and lower-quality detergent such as Arm & Hammer liquid. It was pristine when I refurbed the machine before giving it to her. | ||
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Post# 1077846 , Reply# 12 6/19/2020 at 11:43 (1,268 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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The machine was given to me by a friend years ago. His niece used it at college, then the family used it at a hunting cabin. Someone washed a heavy rug, the motor coupler broke. They thought it was bearings. :-) Refurb at that point was clean-up, replace the coupler, and the lid which got mangled when wind caught it during transport to me. I also replaced the basket due to some rusting, although it would have been OK. Kept the machine in storage for a few years until Mom needed it in 2012 when the timer broke on her 1994 KitchenAid. The Kenmore's neutral drain went bad circa 2018 (date of the pics), which caused some leaking when the water spun-up at higher levels presumably due to two of the anchor tabs on the tub for the tub ring being worn such that the clips didn't latch and thus the gasket seal being a bit questionable. I still had her old KitchenAid in storage so disassembled it and swapped the outer tub from it to the Kenmore. At this point did a full rebuild with a new tub support, basket drive & brake, neutral drain kit and fresh transmission oil. Had the machine for sale but no takers so it's in storage until someone in the family needs it. | ||
| Post# 1077853 , Reply# 13 6/19/2020 at 12:18 (1,268 days old) by PatD (PA) | ||
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Think I'll run in to problems swapping the inner tub if the shaft is really corroded? Would really like to swap it and clean outer basket. | ||
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Post# 1077945 , Reply# 15 6/20/2020 at 09:20 (1,267 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains) |
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Straight answer: Things are going to be more corroded under that basket. You will have a bit of work to do before it's ready to go back into service. Yes, you should use the opportunity to replace the components which wear - bearing, seal, coupler, clutch. From what I can tell, the neutral drain kit isn't needed unless it fails - we have two very ancient Whirlpools which use the same system as your's and they haven't needed rebuilding. If the experts here think it's worth it, follow their advice. I'm not a Whirlpool expert - I can't tell you if the SS tub is a plug and play. Do follow the various threads here and the great YouTube videos on doing all these things (ApplianceParts is especially clear).
As to hot versus cold. It's important to remember that the lower the temperature of the water, the longer it takes the detergents/boosters to clean. Several American testing organizations have confirmed what you're reading here - cold water washing with American detergents leads to grease/microbial/fungal bild up on clothes and machines.
Soaking clothes overnight in something like Oxy-Clean really, really helps to remove the build-up and will let you get good results with warm water when hot isn't possible. The color catcher products help reduce dye bleed, the only problem really possible (on some clothes) with hot water.
I'd go for it, if I were you. But don't expect to get it done in one day. | ||
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