Thread Number: 83723  /  Tag: Small Appliances
Vintage gravity toaster
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Post# 1080848   7/13/2020 at 08:53 (1,376 days old) by quebecois (waterloo, quebec, Canada)        

Hey all! First post on this forum. I'd like to know if any of you has already tried to fix an old gravity toaster? What are the common flaws and what are the ways to fix them? A friend of mine asked me to help her with this but I'm a bit reluctant because I know nothing about them.

This said, I'm a bit handy , I've fixed old Elux vacuum cleaners for a few years, I doubt toasters will be more complicated.





Post# 1080849 , Reply# 1   7/13/2020 at 08:59 (1,376 days old) by SudsMaster (SF Bay Area, California)        

sudsmaster's profile picture

What's a gravity toaster?

 

And why are we trying to toast one of the four fundamental forces of the universe?


Post# 1080865 , Reply# 2   7/13/2020 at 12:22 (1,376 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

Could this be a self-lowering Sunbeam toaster?  If so, they can be finicky.  I recently contributed two fussy ones to my sister's neighborhood association rummage sale (which has been postponed indefinitely due to current circumstances).


Post# 1080866 , Reply# 3   7/13/2020 at 12:38 (1,376 days old) by quebecois (waterloo, quebec, Canada)        

Ralph

Yes, this is what I mean, self-lowering toaster. I don't know if Sunbeam is the only company that sold some, but if others did, they should share similar components, I guess.

What do you exactly mean by finicky? Have you ever fixed one?


Post# 1080867 , Reply# 4   7/13/2020 at 12:39 (1,376 days old) by ea56 (Cotati, Calif.)        

ea56's profile picture

Yes Ralph, thats what I thought the OP was referring to as a “gravity toaster”.  These Sunbeam Radiant Control toasters work great, until they don’t, and then they are very temperamental and perplexing.  

 

We had one that I bought at the Salvation Army Thrift Store in about 2006 that we used exclusively until just about a year ago.  Then it just stopped being dependable and all the tweaking I tried suggested from searching You Tube failed to get it back to working as it should have, so I donated it to charity, perhaps someone else will have better luck.

 

I finally replaced it with a Dualit after trying many other toasters, and I wish I’d found this Dualit first.  This toaster is excellent, and gives the user complete control of the toasting time, worth every penny that they cost.

 

Eddie


Post# 1080868 , Reply# 5   7/13/2020 at 12:53 (1,376 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

No, I have never attempted to fix one.  That is a can of worms I chose to leave alone.  I did have one repaired by long-gone California Electric many years ago and it still works fine, but it's boxed up (see my closing statement below).   As far as I know, Sunbeam was the only source for these self-lowering radiant control toasters.

 

The issue I had with all of mine was refusal to lower the bread.  It may be a simple component that facilitates this, but it is definitely a weak link that was carried though every iteration of this toaster that Sunbeam produced over the decades.

 

By the way, when these toasters do work properly, they do a fantastic job and seem to understand that if the bread isn't quite toasted enough, by adjusting the shading control and lowering the bread again they will toast just a little more rather than going through another full cycle and burning the bread. 

 

That said, my experience has been that these toasters are best at handling plain white bread.  Anything else and all bets are off with regard to perfect toast.


Post# 1080871 , Reply# 6   7/13/2020 at 13:10 (1,376 days old) by quebecois (waterloo, quebec, Canada)        

I just found and watched a video showing how they actually work, it's an amazing design!





there is another 48 minutes or so video on how to fix them, I haven't had time to watch it but here it is:







Post# 1080873 , Reply# 7   7/13/2020 at 13:26 (1,376 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

Hands-free is a bit of a stretch IMO.


Post# 1080875 , Reply# 8   7/13/2020 at 13:44 (1,376 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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The paternal grandparents had one.


Post# 1080878 , Reply# 9   7/13/2020 at 13:55 (1,375 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

There were other self-lowering toasters produced. Toastmaster Super De lux toaster for one.


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Post# 1080898 , Reply# 10   7/13/2020 at 16:51 (1,375 days old) by jamiel (Detroit, Michigan and Palm Springs, CA)        

jamiel's profile picture
The Toastmaster was what existed in our family---both grandparents and my mom all had the identical two-slice one as pictured.

Post# 1080903 , Reply# 11   7/13/2020 at 17:14 (1,375 days old) by petek (Ontari ari ari O )        

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I have two or 3 of them and iirc only one works properly.. Haven't used them in years.. I recall Cuisinart selling one a few years ago but had a motorized mechanism I believe.. Not sure if it's still available.. Cuisinart occasionally re introduces a copy of an old 60's or 70s appliance like the Salad Shooter and the GE toaster oven

Post# 1080907 , Reply# 12   7/13/2020 at 18:56 (1,375 days old) by countryguy (Astorville, ON, Canada)        

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I have the Sunbeam and the newer Cuisinart self lowering...both work pretty good.

Gary


Post# 1080912 , Reply# 13   7/13/2020 at 20:30 (1,375 days old) by wayupnorth (On a lake between Bangor and Bar Harbor, Maine)        

wayupnorth's profile picture
My kitchen has a cathedral ceiling so on top of the cabinets I have my aunts old Toastmaster Automatic, along with a beehive Osterizer, Crosley dashboard am radio, 60's Can o matic, and even a set of poppy promotional Frigidaire canisters and more stuff. I only have a stupid cell phone that might get a signal if you're lucky to be able to send a picture.

Post# 1080914 , Reply# 14   7/13/2020 at 20:40 (1,375 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

Wow Tim. Would had been nice to see your collection.


Post# 1080919 , Reply# 15   7/13/2020 at 21:02 (1,375 days old) by SudsMaster (SF Bay Area, California)        

sudsmaster's profile picture

Sounds like more trouble than they're worth.

 

I mean, how hard is it to push down a lever to lower the bread into the slots?

 

 


Post# 1080920 , Reply# 16   7/13/2020 at 21:06 (1,375 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture
>> Could this be a self-lowering Sunbeam toaster? If so, they can be finicky. I recently contributed two fussy
>> ones to my sister's neighborhood association rummage sale (which has been postponed indefinitely due to
>> current circumstances).

Ralph, if your sister still has them, and you'd be willing to ship those Sunbeams, I'd be interested in purchasing them from you.

We're getting tired of heating our house up toasting bread in the convection oven, and haven't found a modern toaster that speaks to us yet. Seems like it would be worth a shot to see if I could repair yours, or make one out of the two.

Let me know... (Thanks)


Post# 1080930 , Reply# 17   7/13/2020 at 23:10 (1,375 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

Dave, I don't know where those toasters might be at this point, but I'll inquire and advise if they can be retrieved.

 

They are both the later type with color coded sliding darkness control on the front rather than the small black knob on the side.


Post# 1080980 , Reply# 18   7/14/2020 at 09:29 (1,375 days old) by gizmo (Victoria, Australia)        
Sunbeam AT35

I have one of these, an early one with the dial control. It's a 240 volt one made in Australia. It uses 1600 watts which is pretty fierce for 2 slices. I love it but don't use it much. I don't know if the 110 volt US ones are as fierce?

It heats the toast up FAST because the elements are so powerful. This is fine if you use normal sliced supermarket bread, but if you like thicker slices, it becomes a problem - 1. The slots are narrow so thicker slices don't fit, or jam in the slot. 2. The elements burn so bright that thick sliced toast is cooked on the outside before the inside is hot.
The other observation is that the inner standard type element (between the slots) runs hotter than the outer, spiral wound elements, so the toast is always darker on one face than the other. I suspect that when new the outer reflectors were more shiny, but with age they don't reflect as much heat onto the bread.

The slots aren't very deep either, so if you like interesting high-top bread, it sticks out the top. They really are engineered to boring supermarket bread. (Designed by engineers not foodies...)

One strange way that the ferocious heating becomes an advantage is with hard-to-toast bread. I have to eat gluten free now, and GF bread seems to take a lot of toasting. the Sunbeam is up to the job. On our 800 watt Kenwood toaster, the GF bread takes ages and often needs a second go. On the Sunbeam it turns out fine and fast, though darker on one face than the other.

I think they are a fun novelty but in reality not a great toaster.

I also have a Dualit that I salvaged and repaired, and I hate it. Narrow slots, erratic clockwork timer gives erratic results. But I have never tried it for GF bread - it may actually be perfect for that job...


Post# 1080986 , Reply# 19   7/14/2020 at 10:30 (1,375 days old) by Maytagbear (N.E. Ohio)        
I wish!!!!

Currently, I am in a communal kitchen situation (more later), and the "toaster" is a dreadful conveyor thing. It burns one side and barely warms the other side of the slice. I am only exaggerating slightly. Perfect toast does happen, but more in a blue moon than any given Sunday, or Tuesday for that matter.


This is not a happy thing. When I was in my apartment, my breakfast was always peanut butter on toast. Golden, crisp, delicious toast..the perfect counterpoint to the creamy, robust Jif. Made in a Sunbeam Radiant Control toaster. "Automatic Beyond Belief."


Not a "perfect" device, but a very good one. It is important not to let the perfect be the enemy of the good.


Lawrence/Maytagbear


Post# 1081180 , Reply# 20   7/15/2020 at 20:30 (1,373 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture
Thanks Ralph, appreciate it!

Post# 1081201 , Reply# 21   7/16/2020 at 03:50 (1,373 days old) by SudsMaster (SF Bay Area, California)        

sudsmaster's profile picture

I've been rather pleased with the four slice KA pop up toaster I got about 10 years ago at Costco. It browns evenly, has a defrost setting (which actually works), and a time readout on a little LCD screen. I think it even beeps when it's done. I don't make a lot of toast but this one is a keeper. And sits on top of my french door Oster convection oven. And does a better job at toast.

 

 


Post# 1081486 , Reply# 22   7/18/2020 at 07:19 (1,371 days old) by quebecois (waterloo, quebec, Canada)        

I got two toasters to fix (see pictures): one is a GE T-31-D with a cracked bottom; the other one is a Sunbeam T-40-1 in pretty good shape, but it doesn't work at all.

The GE toaster does work but doesn't stop toasting by itself. I think this is because the cracked bottom interfere with the thermostat slide. What would be the best glue to fix the bottom? Epoxy ?

As for the Sunbeam, I think the cord is the culprit, I'll dig in it soon and send pictures.


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Post# 1081505 , Reply# 23   7/18/2020 at 10:39 (1,371 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

turquoisedude's profile picture

The GE toaster most likely has a thermostat that needs to be adjusted which is why it won't stop toasting.  I have service literature on GE toasters of this era - I will find the pages and scan them for you. 

(PS - I drive through Waterloo every week on my way to and from Ogden!)


Post# 1081717 , Reply# 24   7/20/2020 at 10:55 (1,369 days old) by quebecois (waterloo, quebec, Canada)        

Salut Paul !

I would be pleased to get some maintenance informations about the GE, thanks !

What glue would you use to fix it?


Post# 1081727 , Reply# 25   7/20/2020 at 12:42 (1,369 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

I have gotten to the point where I use JB Weld to glue almost everything I want to remain glued, but in this case it would be important to immediately wipe off any excess from the exterior of the piece your mending, otherwise you'd have to grind or sand it off after curing, which would be problematic with all of those grooves.


Post# 1081763 , Reply# 26   7/20/2020 at 19:35 (1,368 days old) by quebecois (waterloo, quebec, Canada)        

Permatex sells a Black plastic weld, it could be fine for this fix, what do you think?


Post# 1081773 , Reply# 27   7/20/2020 at 21:26 (1,368 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

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I've never done this myself, but I've read that for some tricky breaks like cracks in Bakelite, one useful technique is to first glue the pieces together with a cyanoacrylate "super glue". This isn't the permanent fix, but holds it together and set in place while you work on it. Once the super glue sets, working from the backside of the piece, you can then grind a groove into the crack (with a Dremel or similar rotary tool), which is then filled with a slow-set epoxy (such as JB-Weld).

The epoxy is the structural repair, and the roughness and surface area of the groove ensures that the epoxy will have something to bite into. But the face of the part, where appearance matters, will have been untouched by the epoxy, so there is far less clean-up to the part. A hairline crack will remain, but not blobs of epoxy or streaks from attempting to clean off epoxy spillover.


Post# 1081842 , Reply# 28   7/21/2020 at 08:52 (1,368 days old) by quebecois (waterloo, quebec, Canada)        

Thanks Dave, this is the kind of repair I could do on this GE toaster.

Post# 1081845 , Reply# 29   7/21/2020 at 09:32 (1,368 days old) by kb0nes (Burnsville, MN)        

kb0nes's profile picture
Fix the Sunbeam!! They are the perfect toaster assuming you don't need wide slots for bagels etc.

The radiant control makes for the most consistent toasting batch after batch no matter if the appliance is hot or not (or the bread cold).

I've been using the same one (made in 1955) for about 20 years and I can't imagine getting rid of it. I was worried it might fail so 15 years ago I bought a back up at a flea market for $5.

I did take mine apart about 10 years ago and went through it cleaning and polishing and applying some DeOxit to the electrical contacts. I suspect the Sunbeam toaster will outlast me.

Toast does taste better when it isn't startled by a pop up toaster ;)


Post# 1081858 , Reply# 30   7/21/2020 at 11:18 (1,368 days old) by quebecois (waterloo, quebec, Canada)        

My plan is to fix both, the GE for my daughter who will need it in her first apartment and the Sunbeam to please my friend who asked for it.

Post# 1081882 , Reply# 31   7/21/2020 at 14:06 (1,367 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        
GE toaster service info

turquoisedude's profile picture

Bon, I wasn't able to scan them but I took pictures of the GE service guide for the T31 series toaster.  It's the "cool down" cycle that requires adjustment - it's not difficult but it can be time-consuming. 

Bonne chance!


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Post# 1081890 , Reply# 32   7/21/2020 at 15:27 (1,367 days old) by appliguy (Oakton Va.)        
Answer to reply #22

appliguy's profile picture
I got a Sunbeam T35 Radiant Control Toaster for $3 two years ago because it did not work at all. All I had to do to fix it was take a butter knife and slightly turn the screw that is just inside the crumb door in the middle of the toaster. I have a friend that buys and sells these toasters and he has found that 95% of the time that will fix the problem you have with your Sunbeam Radiant Control Toaster! PATRICK COFFEY

Post# 1081997 , Reply# 33   7/22/2020 at 15:16 (1,366 days old) by quebecois (waterloo, quebec, Canada)        

Thanks Paul, I had a look at the instructions and the way I understand them, it should be the Heat-up cycle that needs adjustment, beacause the toasts are too drak (actually the toasts burn if the heat-up cycle is not stopped manually).

I may be wrong though, my English isn't that good. But first I have to glue the plastic case.


Post# 1081999 , Reply# 34   7/22/2020 at 15:22 (1,366 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

turquoisedude's profile picture

You're right about the instructions saying to adjust the heat-up cycle, but there's another mention of having to adjust the cool-down cycle if the heat-up is adjusted; I learned the hard way that if you start with the cool-down cycle, you'll likely solve the problem faster.  One other hard-learned lesson - the adjusting screw that can be accessed through the bottom of the toaster panel may have slipped out.  If that is the case, take the toaster apart carefully to locate it and reinstall it - that causes more burnt toast than you can imagine!!

 


Post# 1082009 , Reply# 35   7/22/2020 at 16:16 (1,366 days old) by quebecois (waterloo, quebec, Canada)        

Thanks Patrick, I recently learned the trick you're talking about in one of the videos I put a linked to here a few days ago

Post# 1082018 , Reply# 36   7/22/2020 at 16:55 (1,366 days old) by quebecois (waterloo, quebec, Canada)        

Here are the screws that may need adjustments in the GE toaster. I assume that the one with the hex-nut is the heat-up adjusting screw, and the thinner and longer one with the slotted head is the Cool-down adjusting screw.

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Post# 1082073 , Reply# 37   7/23/2020 at 06:59 (1,366 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

turquoisedude's profile picture

That's right - I'll bet that if you back up that cool-down screw, the overtoasting problem will be solved.


Post# 1082111 , Reply# 38   7/23/2020 at 16:51 (1,365 days old) by quebecois (waterloo, quebec, Canada)        

I can't figure why it could have gotten out of the proper range?

Post# 1082212 , Reply# 39   7/24/2020 at 12:03 (1,365 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

turquoisedude's profile picture

The bolt holding the adjusting screw probably came loose after decades of use.  Last one like this that I serviced, I used a dab of Loc-Tite to hold the bolt in place.  It's still toasting!


Post# 1082242 , Reply# 40   7/24/2020 at 15:27 (1,364 days old) by quebecois (waterloo, quebec, Canada)        

It 's not like the whole thing is vibrating like an old Harley ???


Post# 1082246 , Reply# 41   7/24/2020 at 16:10 (1,364 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

Perhaps the metal simply warped or fatigued? After all, repeated thermal cycling is basically the primary function of a toaster!


Post# 1082288 , Reply# 42   7/25/2020 at 03:24 (1,364 days old) by SudsMaster (SF Bay Area, California)        

sudsmaster's profile picture

I prefer my gravity well-done.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(Sorry, couldn't resist)

 


Post# 1082784 , Reply# 43   7/28/2020 at 06:51 (1,361 days old) by quebecois (waterloo, quebec, Canada)        

Rich,

I don't understand the point of mocking someone who writes in an unusual language.


Post# 1082871 , Reply# 44   7/28/2020 at 23:03 (1,360 days old) by SudsMaster (SF Bay Area, California)        

sudsmaster's profile picture

Oh, Quebecois, don't be so sensitive. Also, you should know that my grandparents were from Trois Rivieres, Quebec. So I would be quite unlikely to mock you about your language.

 

However, perhaps this is the toaster you're looking for?

 

C'est vrai, sans doubt?

 

 



CLICK HERE TO GO TO SudsMaster's LINK

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Post# 1083110 , Reply# 45   7/30/2020 at 13:16 (1,359 days old) by quebecois (waterloo, quebec, Canada)        

I finally gave up with the GE, the handle used to push the bread slices down fell apart in four small pieces.

Post# 1083112 , Reply# 46   7/30/2020 at 14:23 (1,358 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

Knowing when to quit is a huge part of any challenging repair project.  You gave it your best shot.  Another vintage toaster will come along for your daughter.

 

I'm not ready to give up on my short circuiting vintage Osterizer Cyclomatic blender since there are no broken parts -- yet.



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