Thread Number: 83913
/ Tag: Other Home Products or Autos
Automotive (EGR) Questions |
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Post# 1082666   7/27/2020 at 13:36 (1,339 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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The "check engine" warning lit up on my 2003 Subaru Baja recently. I didn't notice any change in the way the car ran or how the engine behaved, but took it to the shop this past Friday. The mechanic called to advise that an air/fuel ratio sensor had failed, gave me a quote and I authorized the work.
Later that afternoon I was informed the car was ready, that the EGR valve had been replaced, and that the fault had been corrected so the "check engine" warning was no longer displaying. I picked up the car and noticed immediately that the balky clutch which has been an annoyance ever since I bought the car a few years ago (with 121K miles on it) was now operating like brand new. Smooth as silk. Per Subaru forums I had visited in the past, I assumed that this sub-optimal condition was just how Subaru sticks functioned. I think it had slowly become worse over time, as I was getting more and more annoyed with it -- to the point of considering dumping it and finding a turbo model with automatic transmission. Needless to say, I'm thrilled that shifting through the gears is now a pleasant and satisfying experience, just like on other Japanese makes with manual transmissions that I've driven in the past.
So how did the EGR valve correct this situation? I thought EGR stood for "exhaust gas recirculation." How this translates to air/fuel ratio, I don't know exactly although I can see how there would be a connection, but that's beside the point since I'm so happy with how the car behaves now. Has this new component caused the engine to behave differently under a load such as when the clutch engages? Might I also notice better MPG now?
Also, why did it take the "check engine" warning so long to light up, since it seems that this has been an issue the whole time I've had the car (I've put 10K miles on it)? I don't know if the mechanic could have answered these questions when I picked up the car, but he wasn't present at the time.
Any experts care to chime in here? I've worked on my own cars in the past, but when it comes to this sort of thing, I leave it to the pros. |
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Post# 1082668 , Reply# 1   7/27/2020 at 13:40 (1,339 days old) by ea56 (Cotati, Calif.)   |   | |
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Perhaps your clutch operates with vacuum assistance and the replacement of the EGR valve restored the vacuum to the correct setting? I’m no expert but that would be my uneducated guess. Chevrolets from about 1939 thru 42 had vacuum assisted gearshifts that operated with little pressure when they were working properly, but you could still shift even if the vacuum assist wasn’t functioning properly, just with more effort. Same thing with power assisted brakes, if the vacuum assist fails, you can still stop the car, but with more effort.
Eddie |
Post# 1082674 , Reply# 2   7/27/2020 at 14:35 (1,339 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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Post# 1082676 , Reply# 3   7/27/2020 at 14:54 (1,339 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Generally when EGR's fail the poppet (or actuators if digitally controlled, sometimes with multiple orifices) that actuates them gets carboned up and the valve doesn't completely seat and hangs open. This usually causes a choppy idle but modern fuel injection can sometimes compensate for minor leaks. The orifices themselves can plug up in the valve, intake manifold, or exhaust manifold. Sometimes the EGR valve can be cleaned depending on the design and access.
In the old days with vacuum operated valves (especially ones that lacked computer monitoring), I'd pull the EGR valve off and stick a stopper or cork in the orifice of the intake manifold. If the idle smoothed out, problem was found. |
Post# 1082683 , Reply# 4   7/27/2020 at 15:32 (1,339 days old) by MattL (Flushing, MI)   |   | |
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It also may be that resetting the computer had an impact. On my GM cars after replacing a component the computer is reset and the engine "learns" how I drive all over again. Does not take long. |
Post# 1082697 , Reply# 5   7/27/2020 at 16:35 (1,339 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)   |   | |
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Post# 1082704 , Reply# 6   7/27/2020 at 17:52 (1,339 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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stranger things have happened....and who is to say why....
I say, better that it operating like it should, rather than cause issues.... take the blessing as it is, and dont question it... I also wonder where the EGR valve is located on your vehicle....I can't help but wonder if they had to remove or move a part(s) out of the way to replace it....and the new position has corrected your issue... putting a starter on the HEMI, according to the manual, required us to remove the motor mounts and lift the engine 5 inches for clearance....but we had to remove and loosen a lot more than just the mounts... I know when we put a new clutch in my AMC Eagle, the clutch wouldn't work when we first started it.....but let it sit overnight, the next morning, it worked like it should...all we could figure out is when new fluids were put in, it stirred up a bunch of air, and had to settle out of the oil... |
Post# 1082750 , Reply# 7   7/27/2020 at 22:06 (1,339 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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Post# 1082754 , Reply# 8   7/27/2020 at 23:02 (1,339 days old) by ea56 (Cotati, Calif.)   |   | |
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Post# 1082763 , Reply# 9   7/27/2020 at 23:27 (1,339 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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