Its a 1947 model.  I have a 1949 manual and recipe book and here is a picture of the model that most closely resembles yours, is a E64-49, and the only difference from yours is the light and clock above the right hand side of the control panel.  

I lived in a rental that had a 1940 model of this range, left by the previous tenant who purchased it new.  I moved into this rental in 1983 and that stove was the best I’ve ever used.  Sadly in 1985, when the oven stopped working, I called the landlord, thinking he’d just repair it,  He was a great landlord and really like us as tenants, so thinking he was doing us a solid, he bought a new Magic Chef as a replacement.  It didn’t hold a candle to that lovely old Westinghouse.

Eddie

The E64-49 was the only range my mom ever owned.  She used it up until she was no longer able to cook for herself around 2007 or so.

Eddie, I had no idea you had the owner's manual for that stove!  My mom's didn't have the light, clock or timer, but was otherwise identical.

I don't see the 1947 model being much different, other than appearing to lack an indicator light for when the oven element is heating.  My main concern would be that all burners work properly.  If any of them don't, check their wires for any that may have broken off.  This was an occasional thing that would happen to my mom's stove and is easy to fix.  The wires are easily accessed by removing the bowl from under the burner and then removing the trim ring around the opening.  If wiring is OK and burner still has issues, then it could be the burner control, but that's highly doubtful.  All burner controls worked fine on my mom's stove over the nearly 60 years she had it.  Burners themselves are tough to come by, but they can pop up on ebay.

If oven or broiler elements are bad, they can be replaced with a modern radiant tube element.  The independent appliance parts retailer near me could still send out for a replacement when my mom's bake element failed in the early 2000s. 

The tricky repair could be the deep well cooker element.  It's a coiled element (like the broiler and bake elements in the oven are, if they're original) that's not easy to service. 

You found yourself a very nice stove.  I can still hear the clicking sounds of the burners on my mom's stove heating up and cooling down.  Happy cooking, and feel free to ask questions.  Needless to say, I'm very familiar with the workings of these things.

BTW, my mom's stove ended up with another member here who installed it in his historic home's kitchen (insurance company wouldn't let him have a gas stove).

Its interesting how Westinghouse switched the model names back and forth.  I still have the showroom tag from the 1940 Westinghouse range that was in that rental.  The model name was Champion and the model number was KC-64 and it was very similar to the 47’ Westy in the OP.  Conversely, in the  1949 manual, the BOL model that is identical to the OP range ( the OP range is equipped with the accessory light, clock and timer) is named Commodore, while the next step up is the Champion.

I’ve attached photos of the 49’ Champion and the 40’ Champion showroom tag.  I’m so glad that the tenant before us left these items in one of the kitchen drawers when she left.

These are such great stoves!  You really made a score with this find.

Eddie

If memory serves me, the burner numbering sequence goes clockwise starting at left front.  I'm pretty sure that was the arrangement on my mom's stove.

And now I do see that yours does have the oven indicator light above the outlet, and the bake element has been replaced at least once.   I think it would be tough to make anything other than an original timer and clock assembly fit right or look right and you wouldn't be happy with it.  Just to be clear, an original minute timer would operate separately from the clock and would not have any bearing on when the oven operates or for how long.  My mom kept a Presto timer of the same vintage by her stove.   Now it's in my kitchen.  It dings loud and it's portable.  Just enjoy your lamp assembly as it is.  Every stove should have a dedicated source of light.  Maybe a clock/timer assembly will show up one of these days.

It sounds like your stove's story is much like my mom's.  It will probably not have any major issues but if it's been parked in the same place since 1947, the cord is going to be stiff and you should consider replacing it.  I think you can still find 240v cords that are black and round instead of the ugly flat ribbed gray kind, if that matters to you.

BTW, Eddie wasn't there one more BOL super economy model that only had an oven (with drawer below) and no storage side?  It had tube steel legs holding up that end of the stove top instead. 

PS

I got nothing for you on cookie sheets, sorry.  Kevin should know what will fit.

Ralph

The 1940 model in my rental did have the optional clock and timer installed. And it worked too!  Since I had the original owners manual I was able to set it for timed oven cooking.  The former tenant had manuals for both the 1940 and 1949 models, why for the 49’ model I don’t know, but she left both behind.  Maybe she misplaced the 49’ manual in 49’, wrote to Westinghouse ( a Long Distance telephone call in 49’ would have cost a least $5.00 min wage was probably $0.80 per hr.) and they sent her the current edition.  The recipes in each copy are the same.

The 40’ edition doesn’t list the entire model line up like in the 49’ edition.  But Ralph, I believe you are correct about the BOL model having tubular legs and no storage drawer..

These vintage Westinghouse electric ranges were very advanced for their day.  The TOL line models even had a timer for at least on of the burners, you set the burner to the setting you wanted you dish to cook at, set the burner timer switch and the burner would start on High, then after 5 mins would switch to the desired setting as the burner control was set. 

Eddie

I guess I could have been wrong about the clock.  It may have offered a set-and-forget option for the oven after all.

The modern bake element works as well as the original.  My mom's oven was on its third one when she stopped baking, but she was an avid baker and results never varied.  Also, the original bake element was coiled and wound through a framework of steel with clay insulators.  That framework is long gone, so a modern element is your only option.  If you can find an original element assembly, you could have a new nichrome coil woven through it.  I think that cross piece under the front of the element could be what's left from the original assembly and has been repurposed as a support to keep the replacement radiant tube element off the oven floor.

I also didn't notice the Frigidaire element at right front.  That was a well-used burner on my mom's stove too, and the only one that failed.  I had harvested two 6" Corox elements from a junk '50s Westinghouse and replaced the failed burner with one of them.  The other one I left as a spare with the stove for its new owner.  If you want to put an original Corox burner in there again, maybe one of the stove experts here can advise if any of the wiring had to be changed or other alterations were necessary for the Frigidaire burner, or if it's an easy switch.

Tom, thanks for confirming the Rancho model. 

Ralph

Welcome To Westinghouse Cooking, your new range has probably seen a lot of good cooking, all three top elements have been replaced with non-original WH elements so heat settings might vary from what the instruction book states.

As soon as possible you might want to try out the oven for proper temperature operation etc. If everything is OK these were great baking ovens but if there are problems the oven thermostat can be a bear to fix.

As to baking sheets you can use anything that fits as long as you leave at least 1" space on all sides, in your picture of the oven it looks like the shelves are in backwards and maybe up-side down.

Good luck and we all hope it works.

John L.

Welcome To Westinghouse Cooking, your new range has probably seen a lot of good cooking, all three top elements have been replaced with non-original WH elements so heat settings might vary from what the instruction book states.

As soon as possible you might want to try out the oven for proper temperature operation etc. If everything is OK these were great baking ovens but if there are problems the oven thermostat can be a bear to fix.

As to baking sheets you can use anything that fits as long as you leave at least 1" space on all sides, in your picture of the oven it looks like the shelves are in backwards and maybe up-side down.

Good luck and we all hope it works.

John L.

I didn't notice that the two left burners had also been replaced.  The key to electric burner survival is not to bang pots and pans on top of them like some crazed chefy person.  My mom always stirred everything and taught us kids to do the same, with pot remaining in place and undisturbed on the burner.  If you can find original Corox burners to replace the foreign ones, they'll fit better, won't rattle, and won't look all wonky like the one at left rear.

The cable that operates the oven thermostat broke on my mom's stove sometime around 1970 or so.  I remember helping my dad to repair it with plain old picture hanging wire.  We had to be careful to mark the two pulleys' positions with the oven control set to OFF.  That repair was still working flawlessly when the stove went to its new home a dozen years ago.

Tom, I have always assumed that reversed configuration options were available. 

Fortunately, in both homes where my mom's stove lived, there were cabinets/counter tops on the burner side of the stove top.  I'm not comfortable with situations where there isn't generous space between the cooking surface and the nearest wall.  It's one of the reasons why I'm not inclined to use the ceramic smooth top electric module on my POS Gaggaenaubueno "Vario" cooktop.  At least the gas side, which I prefer to use anyway, has countertop space next to it.

Maybe you could attach a heat-resistant surface on the side of the hoosier if it wouldn't look too terrible.  Something like an embossed stainless backsplash material with a thin heat resistant layer behind it, not glued to the hoosier but tacked on so it could be removed if the situation changes.

That is one very lucky stove and it's beautiful in its new setting with that deluxe hood above it!  It has survived and gone to heaven!

It's normal for the stove top surface above the oven to get fairly warm, as well as the area around the door.  My mom used to use that rear burner above the oven vent to keep things warm when the oven was on.  Less heat than on the "simmer" setting.

I hope someone here has a couple of original burners for you.   Otherwise keep an eye out for the correct Corox burner elements on eBay.  Interestingly, the large 8" burner on my mom's stove which was used often, was still working when I passed that stove along.  That size is harder to find because stoves came with two of the smaller 6" size and only a single larger one.  Maybe someone here can post a picture of what they look like so you can be sure of what you're searching for.

Congratulations on your beautiful kitchen!  I know visitors will be complimenting you on your lovely Westinghouse stove!

I couldn't find the Berkeley stove on CL. 

I don't think it should be a big deal to put the correct burner back into the right-front well.  You have the other two existing burners to use as a reference for proper wiring, that is if the original configuration was retained in those.  I would assume the wiring was similar to my mom's stove with three leads, black, white and red.  Black may have been the ground, but don't quote me on that.

Thanks Jim,

I always type "vintage" into my appliance search but clearly that's not the best strategy.  I've provided a link to the CL listing.  I think this stove's burners would be an exact fit for BC's stove.

You need the 2 coil type for this older range, the element would have 3 power connections, there may also be a ground wire [ the black wire is not a ground ]

The elements in reply #30 could work but you would need the trim rings and drip bowls that go with these newer elements and you would take to use the newer switches included with these elements so it could be more work to install but you would have infinite heat controls on these two elements instead of just 5 heat settings. The elements in the add are basically new but you would need to be sure they are 240 volts not 208 or 120 volts.

John L.