The Frigidaire Motor Failure! I have disassembled Eddie's WO-65-2. Much to my surprise its practically brand new! I have never seen the mounting screws with zero rust, have not opened a  machine that had the diverter AND speed bumper in Mint original condition. 

The machine seized on Eddie one day and never did laundry again.

I will post clues and pictures. I haven't opened the sacred mechanism yet so at this point you will know as much as I do.

1. Mechanism frozen

2. Tub will not turn in either direction

3. Water Bellow is intact

4. Oil collected at the bottom of the vent

5. Spin solenoid dry as a bone

6. It appears the tranny bell is seized to the shaft of spinning

I am predicting CMF= Chuffing Motor Failure . Stay tuned the tranny bell is gonna have to soak at least overnite. It ain't goin nowhere.

Got the bell off today! FWIS- Frigidaire Water Intrusion Syndrome! Whole mechanism locked up!

I might need that bearing tool. The spin bearing is seized, which is why the tub was locked solid. Mechanism disassembly begins today, I have reviewed doctrine to refresh my mind. We are going in People!

can you use a hammer on that tool for impact??

The transmission and motor and pump were seized. I was in luck in that there was enough play I could get the trunnion, crankshaft off the motor drive pin! 

You can see the rust crust here and you have know that the oil galleys will be clogged!  Gawd knows what Eddie was using for detergent the pump galleys were completely cemented up! 

My assessment is all parts that can be completely disassembled will be and hopefully the motor safety tripped and no burn out there , testing that comes after the mechanicals.  The crank mechanism is jamming in one spot. 

except for the nutator/oscillator, the drift pin will not budge. So some overnite thought on the subject made me remember the magic of Marvel Mystery Oil to clean the oil galleys out. 

I was able to remove the taper pin in the crank gear which gave me access to the internal oil galley and was able to flood that with MMOIL as you can see my suspicions were confirmed. In the drain oil you can see rust particles that were clogging the oil galley and better still while cranking the nutator/oscillator MMOIL was able to grind out the carbon in the bearing as I could not get that apart. Its obvious the mechanism was under strain due to lack of lubrication. The bearing surfaces show carbon from oil burning. You have get as much as that off as possible. Luckily flooding MMOIL down the nutator while cranking it fine fine carbon came out and it now does not bind. 

The crank gear bearing, and the nutator pin. Before and after, I used 400 grit to start and finished with 1500 for a mirror  polish.

You have to align the taper holes correctly, on the crankshaft and crank gear, inserting the taper when the parts are loose will tell you the orientation. Assemble in the cage and you can drive the taper in. Then you have to stake the hole so the taper stays in. 

The final test is to be able to nutate the trunnion causing the crankshaft to turn, if you can do that by hand then its good to go. We have a Pass!

Rusty clutch assembly. Tomorrows job. Once its all back together, I will fill it with MMOIL and let it run a few hours, then drain! MMOIL unsized my BMW engine when I did the same and then that engine ran to 320,000 miles. You should have seen what drained out!  Magic!

that thingy on the tranny below the solenoid was not a drip pan but  a SPARK CATCHER !! 

Nutator,  passes hand manipulation.

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I've reworked many UNIMATICS but none that had water intrusion. What I found today was nasty and it was in such a small spot I couldnt take a picture so I'll have to describe it and use Doctrine. 

Opening up the oil pump I found water + detergent crud !!!

Disassembly revealed a completely blocked oil supply galley, from the baseplate feeding the oil pump, not only was this unit water logged but it was not getting any oil at all !

The plug was on the 90-degree bend in the mechanism base- on the right of the crankshaft where the screen enters the center galley.

Speaking to Ben I decided -prudently NOT to skip the disassembly of the brake plate. Good thing most of the crud was between the plates! Not a nice way to start out a new charge of lube-0-matic oil is it??

Todays' job careful gasket cutting, cleaning of pump and matching reasembly of pump - which to a newbie can be daunting. First the holes are NOT symmetrical! So the gasket only goes on one way, the pump plate also, and the pump housing can be screwed on any old way --NEVER!! the outlets must emerge under the solenoid control block in order to face the hoses and outlets. So follow along people for more tricks to UNI-LIVING! 

Trick no 1 which most people will miss due to corrosion is the staking of the impeller bolt in the impeller. This is done at the factory to prevent the bolt from loosening in service and causing "terminal fan rattling and water leaks". However you just can't remove the bolt and put it back in as it will not seat properly in the countersunk hole and then it will loosen and you will have leaks and rattling fans! Now I will concede none of this procedure will guarantee a leak proof rebuild, after all these are 70 years old now and made of pot metal. But these tips will help you along the road to no leaks thats for sure and they are learned after 30 years of working on these units! 

Below you will see the staking marks in the impeller, before reinstall you have to grind down the burr created by the staking to allow the bolt to seat properly. What I do is grind VERY SLIGHTLY as this is pot metal and then use thread locker on the impeller bolt, then once assembled I try and reproduce a stake or two. On this assembly I'm trying something new too, I am applying rubber cement to the countersink to help seal the bolt head from water intrusion. 

In #4 you can see I've ground the burr down.

of the pump you want to take extra precautions as its a real pain to work on PERIOD. What I do is clean all mating surfaces, then I apply a coat of rubber cement to all surfaces that contact the mounting sides of gaskets. See the pick, cement under the rubber face seal, rubber cement between the same rubber seal and bearing face seal, rubber cement along the pump body. Note in the 3rd photo I am only showing the cement I used, I only put oil on the face seal that is exposed near the pick.  I also oil all seal faces before assembly. 

easy extraction and future disassembly is Anti-Seize. I apply this to the motor shaft before the fan and impeller assembly. 

reassembly make note of the bottom of the pump plate, there will be either an "X" or "O" stamped, this must be oriented to between the outlet ports and they must be oriented to emerge under the solenoid. You won't get the screws back in place to hold the pump plate. Because the pump body can go back in willy nilly to the mechanism the exit ports need to be under the solenoid or - you'll have a nightmare trying to connect the hoses - I  know-  I DID many moons ago .  

Regardez le photo du mechanism dans post

I have a care package arriving from a good friend today........It has the "persuader" inside !!

didn't show the location of the detergent crust blockage to the oil pump so I have enhanced the photo with my crude skills in PS. The pink is the blockage inside the mechanism base.

Ben's Frigidaire Persuader pounds through the tuff jobs~! Tunes provided by Marantz! Thank you Ben and Robert for finding the Doctrine on this tool !

Nothing can resist the Persuader- IT must Comply !

Here is the video of the Oil Test, today. My Assistant is Rudy Lu, expert photographer. We have shown that for the first time Mother Superior is correct. The mechanism does pump oil in Spin. To my surprise for sure ! So Spin your Units All Day Long People.

Does Robert deserve a SLAP for that or a Cheer??

You Decide....

I was installing the new spin bearing and noticed the flanges had gunk on the surfaces. Got out my gasket scraper and went to work. What I thought was old gasket shellac turned out to be carbonized gasket !

This mechanism got so hot it burned the cork! 

I had to chip it off both surfaces.

These things were built I can tell you.

One always tries to keep a neat work bench BUT towards the end One can get impatient and One can find a whole series of problems crop up. I had the latter !  Look at that bench !

Jeb in trying to help part out this machine , cut all the wires to the timer. However that wasnt a bad thing it forced me to upgrade this machine to the 1970 1-18 Standard so the top is now removable from the cabinet. 

for a full test . I found once I did that --- there was NO Power to anything. After testing each component for run capability you put it all together and get BLAHHHH-NADA! 

Found out our little club member  "Edna" was a tad aggressive with this machine when it died. He must have jammed the YU motor protector switch in so far it bent the contacts inside so they no longer made contact. So these are NASTY switches to disassemble and work in, they are like spring loaded many small part jack in the boxes ! BOING it all comes apart. You really need to know what you are doing! Fortunately this wasn't my first Rodeo!  

Tweaking the contacts forward from their "jammed' position and bingo the YU switch works. Fortunately though I have a club member who is zooming another NIB just incase.  You can see the guts of the switch, the little ratchet that engages the copper tang. As the motor overloads the copper bends under heat and boing the switch is freed to disengage. This is the first one Ive see that works this way, much better the originals had a lead pot that melted letting the ratchet release but that lead system had 3 -4 cycle life IF the whole thing didnt get too hot. If it did the lead all melted out to the bottom and you could never get it to engage again. 

while I was able to run a complete cycle with all components hooked in and running perfectly. Timer motor, switches, hot/warm water valve, spin solenoid. She is ready to go back into the machine.

Can't do much laundry in that machine with the tub all the way down !!

I have seen many mechanisms with that exact "ok" mark. Someone was paid to chalk that on thousands of mechanisms at the end of the line! Can you imagine - whistle blows , you start Ok-ing , whistle blows for lunch, and then at 5 you  mark your last mechanism for the day. I wonder who,, he or she was???

First the cabinet. This machine was exposed to hard water, we don't have that in eastern  MA but it could have come from the western part of the state in the Berkshires. So does anybody remember where Eddie got this machine??  The water hoses reveal that hard water, was supplying the machine.

The hard water chips away at the enamel, as you can see by the mounting holes in the bulkhead. This has exposed the steel to rusting. A good brushing with steel wool and then a coat of Rust Extend will give this years of life.

and elbow grease goes along way.

In cleaning up I see this machine is in superb shape. It even still had the copper filter screen in the fill flume, and since it was so low use I learned it is copper not stainless steel or brass. 

With the removal of all that crud it will smell sweet when washing and rinsing. The detergent fragrance will be stronger too. One of my fav steps in a restoration the cleaning of the catch tub, the forbidden dirt one never sees!!

Hawaiian washing on its way,

her skirt!!

Marked public.

Hawaiian Washing ....

All the parts are returning to their places, this is one of the fun parts as the machine goes back together. 

-Todays progress, this machine has a drain coupling I have not seen before, a garden hose connector. 

-Always always always a new water valve fitment is a PILL. This one is hitting the bracket i would not be able to get the hose connected properly, luckily I noticed this right after I installed it in, out it comes and goes under the mighty bench grinder! 

-Ben requested to see the later updated tub to mechanism water seal, it is a face seal so I pulled it apart in sections you can see. This tells me this unit was worked on in its day so I was not the first inside. The current water leak was caused by a ripped oil bellows the face seal seems perfectly normal. The big mechanism nut is part of the replacement, it has a lower height to accommodate that copper seal ring which now engages the tub down to the inner bearing race. 

-Honkin big wrench, the mechanism nut is terrified! 

-A sweet bonus is this machine still retains both HOT and COLD signs!! 

-These solid rubber blocks are a restorer's dream- RUN to the auto parts store NOW!

one thing at a time

Will search for one !u

Bud, thank you for your explanation! Those supports have steel plates molded into them so we would need the plates out of old supports. 

And thanks for the link to HD and the hose !!!

Reassembly !  The water bellows was the worst thing I have even done in a Frigidaire! It took me two days and prompting from Robert ! These were NOS parts and they are getting firm after 40 years on the shelf !!!

Look at the quality - take a look at the two nuts in photo #15, they were chosen to hold the back down and the nut has a raised flat that is designed to engage the lock washer! Don't see that anymore. 

Fun detail work, I have cleaned all the bolts and repainted and buffed the control plate. I  have updated the panel water temp with 1953 Oldsmobile Speedometer paint !  

De-rusted the nylon washers. It all is going back together nicely,  Eddy's machine is gonna rise nicely !!

See Mike, see Mike get lambasted with suds. 

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Hola

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Happy Memories

Beautiful job, Jon, Eddy is smiling down with pride!

Thanks for documenting the process as well, a very useful resource for future Unimatic washerpeeps.

The Club is fortunate to have all the resources we do , it made this easy.

Louis. I bet he can hear you too!!!