Thread Number: 85180
/ Tag: Vintage Dishwashers
GE 2800 Dishwasher Repair Help (Twenty-Eight Hundred) |
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Post# 1096958 , Reply# 1   11/13/2020 at 17:59 (869 days old) by combo52 ![]() |
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![]() It probably thinks the detergent cup is not closed,
Is the WA turning, [ check by opening the Dw and checking WA position and then recheck a few times ]
Is the DD opening properly durning the cycle ?
If everything is working OK just push start when it keeps beeping and keep using the machine.
John L. |
Post# 1096959 , Reply# 2   11/13/2020 at 18:00 (869 days old) by Pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada)   |   | |
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Post# 1097012 , Reply# 4   11/14/2020 at 07:43 (868 days old) by combo52 ![]() |
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![]() Hi Kyle, There is a switch on the Electronic Control assembly that detects whether you have closed the Det Cup or not, this switch is the malfunction, The problem will not get worse, you can try and fix it or disable it or just keep using the DW as is.
Your problem is not caused by the arm rotation sensor or the DW would be stopping much further into the cycle.
John L. |
Post# 1097059 , Reply# 6   11/14/2020 at 14:17 (868 days old) by panthera ![]() |
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![]() I preferred the older style with the multi-orbital arm. Here's what I learned in the two years we worked with it: On the far right side, roughly at the same height at the washarm, there is reed-switch sensor. It shorts on when the magnet passes by it. No good putting a magnet next to it, GE considered the possibility of the arm blocking right next to the sensor, too. That reed-switch is a bog standard reed-switch, nothing special and I replaced ours with a standard one used for door alarms, problem solved. The detergent cup motor is overly complex and often (always) ends up either jamming or failing or gets knocked out of alignment when the plastic panel is removed for cleaning. That can, indeed, as John mentioned lead to the stupid switch getting upset. I don't think that would cause a problem at the beginning of the cycle. These dishwashers clean very well, however, any GSD 1100 or better will clean just as well and without the hysterical 1980's bad logic. The magnet is not going to fall out of the washarm, so I wouldn't worry about that. |
Post# 1097116 , Reply# 7   11/15/2020 at 08:46 (867 days old) by reactor ![]() |
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Hello Kyle,
Yes, your 2800 is certainly worth saving. Keep your eye our on Ebay for a control board, or sometimes you can find the entire control panel and escutcheon. I agree with John, that you may have a detergent cup sensor fault. On my parent's 2800, the one and only service call they ever had was for a detergent cup sensor. The repairman said that was the #1 problem on the 2800. They removed it on their later units, if I recall correctly. Also, when you have the inner door off, are you re-bending the detergent cup motor arm straight down, as General electric tells you to do in the schematic/service packet?. GENTLY straighten it so it is perfectly horizontal (parallel to the sides of the door) This has to be done every time you take off the inner door panel. It doesn't take much adjustment. The control board actually uses the signal from magnetic and reed sensor to count the rotations of the wash arm. If the rpm's are not within the specified range it will shut down the machine and send you an alarm. But, as John says this does not occur early in the cycle. Early cycle alarms are for detergent cup non-trip, open cup, or incoming water under-temp conditions. Considering the advanced sophistication of the 2800, there are surprisingly few problems that develop....even after nearly four decades. Try straightening the cup arm and check the sensor for a loose wire, loose mount, or corrosion on contacts. I'll keep an eye out for 2800's in my area on Craigslist and FB, as well as the thrift stores, every once in a while, one shows up. If I find one, I'll get it and send you the control panel and detergent cup assembly. |
Post# 1097119 , Reply# 9   11/15/2020 at 09:18 (867 days old) by panthera ![]() |
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![]() If it's any use, we had the 'C' revision of the control board and it still used the detergent dispenser sensor. I had forgotten that the dratted thing does check right at the start. Which makes sense, of course. I do remember that the whole assembly has to be absolutely straight and true and you have to put the inner door back on exactly right or it doesn't work. Do keep an eye out, as others have advised, they show up. I don't know whether this machine checks that sensor constantly, but I'd guess it doesn't as, unlike the wash-arm sensor, it needn't. Perhaps, if you have no choice, you can just short the sensor? |
Post# 1097193 , Reply# 11   11/15/2020 at 20:08 (867 days old) by reactor ![]() |
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Kyle,
General Electric ships each of their dishwashers with a schematic/troubleshooting guide. It's in the lower part of the dishwasher, tucked in between the frame and tub. Remove the lower access panels. Look or feel up on the right hand side. It's folded in a little back envelope. On the 2800 there are two schematics folded in the little packet. One for the electronics and one for the mechanics. I know it seems odd for it to be there after nearly 40 years, but the average consumer does not know it's tucked up there. (They wouldn't know what to do with it if they saw it anyway. lol) Most GE dishwashers I find at the thrift store or buy from owners, still have this little packet in place. You will probably find yours there. |
Post# 1097195 , Reply# 12   11/15/2020 at 20:28 (867 days old) by panthera ![]() |
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![]() 1) We know the system does not immediately react to an error. Sometimes it can run for 30 seconds, sometimes a few minutes. This is why opening a door or turning it off and back on can lead to the system running again for a while. 2) It appears as though the error occurs only during the parts of the cycles when the detergent dispenser/rinse-aid dispenser system is involved? 3) Even though you can't see it on the display, one of those schematics lists how to trigger a step through diagnostic - and the one for dispensing detergent/rinse-aid does make a nice sound if it's working. That might help you, regardless of what you can see. My board had also had repairs on several components prior to my buying it - my general impression of the board was that GE used the same really poor quality PCB material they used for their last tube radios and it just wasn't holding up well. 4) Is an intermittent connection possible? Most of the sensors are wired with super thin cable, even for logic systems - could there be an intermittent break or a loose connector?
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Post# 1098621 , Reply# 14   11/28/2020 at 23:32 (854 days old) by panthera ![]() |
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![]() I don't recollect having read about that one. How very useful! Thanks! By the by, if you reach the point where you can't fix the electronics/sensors, etc. - It is possible to fit the controls from a mechanical GE to run this dishwasher. Given that it has the multi-orbital arm and the really effective filtering system, even the most basic GE with temperature boost will clean perfectly with this unit. |