Thread Number: 85339
/ Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
Do top-loaders truly wash clothes better than front-loaders? |
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Post# 1098806 , Reply# 1   11/30/2020 at 12:02 (1,236 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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My experience, after owning both Whirlpool Duet and Frigidaire Affinity front load machines, is that they do a superior job when compared to a top-loader. The Duet replaced an Amana (Speed Queen clone) top loader and it got out stains that the Amana could not with wash after wash. The first time the stained item went through the Duet, the stain was gone. That was all I needed to convince me that the wash action of front-load machines is far more effective than the swishing around you get from a top-loader.
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Post# 1098811 , Reply# 2   11/30/2020 at 12:56 (1,236 days old) by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)   |   | |
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do I feel like they wash/rinse better.....but they are more gentle on clothing (less lint on lint screen)
Keep in mind, I've only had ONE FL washer. A WP duet from 2005 that is STILL WORKING (LOL) It took me some getting used to at first....but after having had front load washer all of these years...It would be extremely difficult for me to go back to a top loader. I mean, I could do it...It would just be difficult. I still like some of the TL washers though. I like the SQ's before they redesigned them. If I were to have a TL washer, it would be a SQ before the redesign. I hated the looks of the updated model. I don't keep up. Maybe they changed them back to that? But last I heard, the latest SQ TL's weren't good, but the ones before that were fantastic. |
Post# 1098813 , Reply# 3   11/30/2020 at 13:00 (1,236 days old) by chachp (North Little Rock, AR)   |   | |
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I had my first front loader in 2002. Previous to that, was all top loaders of different brands. The last top loader I had was a Maytag and it did a horrible job compared to the F/Ls I have owned. It could have to do with my own habits. Maybe I used too much or too little detergent, maybe it was my water who knows. What I know is my clothes are very clean in a very little bit of water compared to any top loading machine I owned. My F/L does multiple rinses which I think also helps. And they still use less water for the entire load than a Top Loader with one rinse.
My guess is you may get as many opinions as you will get replies and many will disagree with mine and that's OK. It won't convince me to go back to a Top Loader. |
Post# 1098822 , Reply# 4   11/30/2020 at 14:14 (1,235 days old) by IIIJohnnyMacIII (North Carolina)   |   | |
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I had a Whirlpool 4000 series front loader from 2009. Hardly any options. I now have a 2017 speed queen top loader. My Whirlpool removed stains better. However, it left a locker room smell on some of that under armor type fabric. This is the reason I went to a Speed Queen top loader. If the Whirlpool had an extra rinse option I probably would have stayed with a front loader. In fact, I’m probably going to go with a speed queen fl washer and dryer set pretty soon.
While more water may logically seem like it would clean clothes better. I think having less water concentrates the detergent more and turns a front loader into a stain fighting machine. Also because of their gentler wash action, you can run a main wash cycle on front load washers for a longer amount of time giving enzymes more time to do their job. So a front loader with an extra rinse gets my pick. |
Post# 1098824 , Reply# 5   11/30/2020 at 14:35 (1,235 days old) by appnut (TX)   |   | |
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I too am one in the front loader is better group. I had a Frigidaire from 2006 to 2011. Then have had a Whirlpool Duet from December 2011 to the current. The Duet has excelled at complex, The concentrated detergent solution coupled with longer wash times helps that. Plus I firmly believe an onboard heater that helps maintain or increase warm and hot water temps increases the effectiveness. And my garments are lasting much longer. I hope I never have to go back to a top loader.
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Post# 1098828 , Reply# 6   11/30/2020 at 15:10 (1,235 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806)   |   | |
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The front loaders that do a excellent job are the Dexter and Speed Queen commercial washers they use in laundromats and those will get a load of laundry done in 30 to 35 minutes time. Not all front loaders are bad but I live in a rural area and I happen to live on a acre of land where outside yard work never seems to end and my shorts and jeans get pretty dirty along with my t shirts after all of that outside cleaning not to mention it gets quite dusty where I live. Usually wash all of my stuff in my Maytag A606 for a 6 to 8 minute wash along with a warm water wash and never really have any issues with things not coming clean same thing with my 1963 RCA Whirlpool Imperial Mark XII since it has the Surgilator agitator in it.
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Post# 1098831 , Reply# 7   11/30/2020 at 15:21 (1,235 days old) by Iheartmaytag (Wichita, Kansas)   |   | |
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In the olden days a Top Loader like a GE Filter-flo with Hot, actual Hot water and phosphate detergent did an excellent job cleaning. In those days we had little in the lines of Front loaders to compare.
I got my Front Loader In 2009 replacing a Maytag Top loader. I will say the front loader no only handles a larger load, but the clothes come out cleaner than they ever did with the Top Loading machine. with what we have to choose from in the arena of affordable Top loading machines now, I would buy another Front Loading machine without hesitation. |
Post# 1098833 , Reply# 8   11/30/2020 at 15:48 (1,235 days old) by ea56 (Cotati, Calif.)   |   | |
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I know that I’m gonna be in the minority here but I prefer a TL with an agitator over the current breed of FL’s. Before they began building the current generation of FL’s with computer boards I loved FL’s, back when most disparaged them.
The old FL’s up to the Frigidaire's that were released in the mid to late 90’s were excellent machines. They cleaned well, used less water and completed a cycle in about 50-60 mins with no drama. They always went into a spin, no endless hunting for a sweet spot to balance.
The last FL that I owned was a BOL LG that I purchased in 2015. It took 90 to 120 mins to complete a load, and often would refuse to go into a spin, especially with heavy towels. The most disappointing washing machine I’ve ever owned, and I’ve owned over 20 different washers since ‘72. I may be retired but I have no interest in spending all day to wash three loads of laundry.
My current BOL Roper TL completes a normal cycle with hot water in 34 mins., never refuses to go into a spin and the heavy weight towels from Restoration Hardware that a couldn’t wash in the LG come out perfectly every time. It cleans thoroughly, removing even the toughest stains the first time the items are washed. I’ve been very pleased with it.
Now if they ever start to build the old style FL’s again I’d consider buying an FL again, but the new ones on the market, not so much.
That’s my two cents worth.
Eddie This post was last edited 11/30/2020 at 17:35 |
Post# 1098834 , Reply# 9   11/30/2020 at 16:08 (1,235 days old) by twintubdexter (Palm Springs)   |   | |
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Some of us that are of "advanced age"...
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This post was last edited 11/30/2020 at 16:30 |
Post# 1098838 , Reply# 10   11/30/2020 at 16:21 (1,235 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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H-axis washing machines out perform top loading on most if not all metrics; and that is just a simple fact.
This has been known since early in last century when washer makers like Thor touted their "cylinder" washing machines as the best way of achieving a clean wash without wear on textiles. Furthermore almost from the start commercial/industrial laundries have always gone with some version of H-axis washing machine. You won't find a top loader outside of laundromats (mostly North America), and some on premises laundries. There are two main ways of doing wash; you either move water through laundry, or laundry through water. H-axis washers perform the former; gently forcing water through material while tumbling causes flexing which helps to open up the weave of fabrics. First thing most persons notice when doing wash in a front loader that was routinely done in top loading machines is how much detergent and perhaps soil residue comes out wash water. This from laundry that appeared "clean". Top loaders can perform well under certain conditions, but unless one is willing to go back to pre-treating and or soaking/washing front loaders give better performance overall. Can put even badly stained items into any of my front loaders and things come out clean. No muss, no fuss, no chlorine bleach..... This post was last edited 11/30/2020 at 17:41 |
Post# 1098842 , Reply# 12   11/30/2020 at 16:44 (1,235 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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Eddie raises a good point. Front loaders have earned a well-deserved reputation for balancing issues that drag out cycles or, in extreme cases, fail to complete them at all. My Affinity did just give up without spinning when handling things like throw rugs, but the Duet never did. I currently have a 2014 Maytag Neptune, and it does a much better job of balancing to the point that cycle length is almost never extended by attempts to balance.
Speed Queen front loaders are supposedly the best at balancing, but other makes may have improved their systems over the years. Speed Queens are prohibitively expensive though, so I'd have to find a killer deal on one if I were in the market.
The reason I didn't mention the Neptune in my first post is because I don't think it's as good at cleaning as either the Duet or Affinity was, but it was here and came with the house we bought a couple of years ago, and I love, love, love analog knobs and dials, which the Neptune has. It does clean better than my 1987 Maytag top loader, though, which I have held onto for jobs like throw rugs, shop rags, anything with cat fur on it, etc.
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Post# 1098853 , Reply# 13   11/30/2020 at 17:43 (1,235 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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Post# 1098856 , Reply# 14   11/30/2020 at 18:01 (1,235 days old) by whirlykenmore78 (Prior Lake MN (GMT-0500 CDT.))   |   | |
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I was a STAUNCH! Direct Drive guy for many years and with good reason. They do an excellent job of washing and rinsing for a TL and are not bothered by large or heavily soiled loads.
Then I bought my Speed Queen FL set. I would never go back to a TL again. The SQ washer does an amazing job of washing and stain removal (I don't ever use Shout anymore) just some bleach for the whites. As good as our 1996 WP DD was this washer is better hands down. Our clothes get cleaner and with much less wear. Utility bills also dropped with these machines. WK78 |
Post# 1098861 , Reply# 15   11/30/2020 at 18:49 (1,235 days old) by petek (Ontari ari ari O )   |   | |
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Front loaders for me from now on. As much as I liked our old GE FF, once we got that first Duet frontloader and now the LG frontloader I wouldn't go back to a toploader again as the main washer or only washer. And as for which type washes better I'll go with what Consumer reports says,, frontloaders do. You can't argue with scientific lab results which can be repeated over and over again.
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Post# 1098869 , Reply# 17   11/30/2020 at 20:39 (1,235 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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One reason top loaders held on for so long as state of art far as American domestic laundry is concerned is they can be built rather inexpensively. Their designs were simple and by 1960's or certain 1970's pretty standard. Yes, you had the outliers such as GM Frigidaire's "jet action", and a few others including Philco, but otherwise top loading automatic washers were just improved versions of semi-automatic wringer machines.
What kept front loaders back was same thing we all mostly know; it takes quite more effort to design and build a washer where suds container is horizontal. Water must be kept from leaking, machine must be stable not just during wash/rinse but extraction, etc... All that R&D, building and so forth cost money which naturally is reflected in final cost of product. Bendix got there first far as domestic fully automatic H-axis washers are concerned, but others soon followed. Across the pond however post WWII state of the art was H-axis washers for domestic use and they never looked back. Miele and many other front loaders from Europe late as 1990's were darn near commercial/industrial quality. Built to last and rock solid. My older Miele W1070 doesn't mess about far as spinning is concerned. It will attempt to balance load best it can, but when timer says "let's rock", it's off to the races. Miele washers then between their cast iron cradle, robust suspension and other bits could handle OOB loads in all but the most dire situations. Much of that has changed. To bring price points down not just in Europe but USA and elsewhere all sorts of washing machines have suffered quality decline. Instead of being built to withstand OOB loads, front loaders today simply try to avoid that happening if at all possible. So they spend ages balancing/redistributing loads in aid of extraction. If that process starts and things are out of programmed parameters, machine stops, and starts pfaffing about again with redistributing........ If this goes on long enough many machines will just give up extracting and move on to next portion of cycle. Other issue is that in aid of offering increased capacity suds containers for domestic front loaders have gotten deeper and or wider often taking up far more room in cabinet than of old. However because washing machine sizes are pretty much standardized those larger suds containers must fit inside same size cabinet making for far less clearance. Keeping the above in mind it is far better then that washer not spin when OOB because chances for damage now are greater since there isn't much of a buffer when it comes to suds container movement. Electrolux, Whirlpool, Miele, etc... all know how to build front loading washers that are built to last because they all have commercial/industrial divisions. However a "small" 18-20 pound capacity commercial washer by say Dexter, Wascomat, or others will run several thousands. However you get a washer that will outlive you and probably your children. It can be easily repaired onsite and even rebuilt. laundromat123.com/Laundromat_Was... www.statewidelaundry.com/... |
Post# 1098875 , Reply# 18   11/30/2020 at 21:16 (1,235 days old) by lakewebsterkid (Dayton, Ohio)   |   | |
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I could not agree more! We also had previous stains that we figured were dried in, and after one wash through the Duet they were removed! I quickly noticed how much softer our clothes felt, and how fresh they smelled. |
Post# 1098880 , Reply# 19   11/30/2020 at 22:10 (1,235 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806)   |   | |
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I wouldn’t mind having a older Westinghouse front loader from the 70’s or 80’s since they have all mechanical controls, but I am not sure if I’d ever buy a newer front loader from a big box store since like Eddie said is they have issues with balancing and add quite a bit of time to the cycle since is has to distribute everything just right for it to be balanced. Reason why commercial front loaders such as the Dexter and Speed Queen front loaders in laundromats don’t have any issues with balancing is because they are bolt down machines and that explains why they don’t take very long to get a load of laundry done.
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Post# 1098882 , Reply# 20   11/30/2020 at 22:17 (1,235 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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Yes, and in the case of the Affinity attempting final spin, the next portion of the cycle was "end" with sopping wet items left in the drum. Annoying, but it didn't happen much and hey, those sopping wet items were for sure cleaner than a TL machine would have gotten them. Some rearranging, setting for "spin only" and making the sign of the cross would usually do the trick.
The other thing I didn't mention was FL machines' superior rinsing. I couldn't believe the suds that kept coming out of clothes that had been last washed in the Amana TL upon their first run through the Duet. Of course, Amana/Speed Queen's piss-poor rinsing set a low bar, but I'd wager that with even stricter efficiency requirements for TL machines these days, they're not even in the same league as FL machines in the rinsing game.
There's really no contest, as the replies above have overwhelmingly indicated thus far.
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Post# 1098883 , Reply# 21   11/30/2020 at 22:21 (1,235 days old) by ea56 (Cotati, Calif.)   |   | |
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Yes Sean, I’d like to have a Westinghouse FL again too. I had an ‘87 Westinghouse for 7 trouble free years and it was the best washer I ever owned. Back then Consumers Reports wasn’t crazy about them or any other FL for that matter and most of America felt the same way about FL’s then too. I love them, but not the new ones. Too much time to wash a load and not enough water used in the wash cycle.
The concept of FL’s has been ruined by over zealous energy restrictions, and I believe in conservation. The old FL’s used much less water than a TL, but enough to get everything sloshing in water. The LG I had barely got the load damp and in my opinion didn’t clean as well as my current energy efficient Roper TL with an agitator.
Eddie |
Post# 1098884 , Reply# 22   11/30/2020 at 22:37 (1,235 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806)   |   | |
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The Speed Queen top load washers only do a single spray rinse for about a minute much like the older Maytags like my 1973 A606. If they simply added more spray rinses on the Speed Queen top loaders, and did 6 seven second spray rinses like the older Whirlpool belt driven washers, they would do a much better job at rinsing but since Speed Queen never bothered adding more spray rinses will explain why they don’t do the best job rinsing. Not to mention the first spin is slow on all newer Speed Queen washers which doesn’t spin out enough of the soapy water and detergent which won’t allow for good rinsing either.
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Post# 1098920 , Reply# 24   12/1/2020 at 11:03 (1,235 days old) by kb0nes (Burnsville, MN)   |   | |
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Post# 1098923 , Reply# 25   12/1/2020 at 11:21 (1,235 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)   |   | |
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Post# 1098929 , Reply# 26   12/1/2020 at 12:05 (1,235 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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Post# 1098932 , Reply# 27   12/1/2020 at 12:28 (1,235 days old) by ea56 (Cotati, Calif.)   |   | |
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Thank you Ralph! Just because I’m not an appliance service tech doesn’t mean that I haven’t got 48 years of personal experience in owning and using almost every type of washing machine. I’ve paid close attention over these 48 years as to what I like and don’t like. I’ve owned 2 Westinghouse FL’s, 3 Frigidaire FL’s and an LG FL. The Westinghouse’s and first 2 Frigidaire FL’s were excellent machines. They weren’t temperamental and while they used much less water than a TL they still used enough water to wash and rinse every load. thoroughly.
Back when I first owned FL’s most people hated them, because they’d not used one.
I’ve owned and used two of the new generation FL’s. a Frigidaire Affinity and a BOL LG. The Affinity used an adequate amount of water but I couldn’t get heavy items like throw rugs or bath towels to go into a spin reliably, had to go to the GD laundromat to wash these sometimes.
It really disappoints me that FL’s aren’t the simple, fast and water saving appliances that they once were. But at least my current energy efficient Roper TL reaches a happy medium in water conservation, is fast and washes and rinses thoroughly. I feel the clothes are cleaner than they were with the LG.
For those that love their modern FL’s I’m very happy for you! These machines are expensive so the owner/user SHOULD be happy with their machines.
One other thing that makes the modern FL’s a no go for me is the depth of these machines, unless you purchase a compact model, they are too deep to fit my laundry closet, and I don’t want some jerry rigged curtain covering them when not in use. I want to keep the bi-fold doors on this closet as it was designed to be used.
I've put a great deal of thought and experience into my choice. Just because my choice differs from the majority doesn’t mean that it’s wrong, its right for ME, and I’m the one paying for the machine and using it so I’ll please myself. I’d prefer having an FL, but NOT the ones sold now.
Eddie This post was last edited 12/01/2020 at 15:28 |
Post# 1098942 , Reply# 28   12/1/2020 at 13:43 (1,235 days old) by GELaundry4ever (Nacogdoches, TX, USA)   |   | |
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is that front loaders do a good job, despite the low water levels. This is especially true for the lg pairs that I have, one of which being a Kenmore elite set with accelawash. This is thanks to the water recirculation and high-pressure rinse jet at the top of the door. |
Post# 1098947 , Reply# 29   12/1/2020 at 15:03 (1,234 days old) by kb0nes (Burnsville, MN)   |   | |
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Post# 1098950 , Reply# 30   12/1/2020 at 15:44 (1,234 days old) by EEMac (Olympia, WA)   |   | |
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We had a front-load washer for almost 15 years. We bought a Speed Queen top-loader (SQ TL) right before SQ changed their designs.
The front loader: * cleaned better * used much less laundry soap * handled big/bulky items better We have more persistent shirt stains with the SQ than we ever did with the front loader. That said, I'm not unhappy with the SQ TL! It cleans well enough, and it *rinses* like nobody's business. There's very little detergent scent on clothes after it's done. And clothes smell cleaner than they did from our front loader. In 15-20 years when our SQ wears out, I'll look at a front loader again. But I'll also enjoy the reliability and fantastic rinses in the meantime. |
Post# 1098951 , Reply# 31   12/1/2020 at 15:45 (1,234 days old) by chachp (North Little Rock, AR)   |   | |
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I've had a BOSCH Axxis+, a Samsung behemoth something or other (it was huge) and now a Miele. I replaced the Samsung because they were just huge and I wanted something that didn't stick out so far. The compacts work fine for us and were a better fit for what I was doing in my laundry room.
In my experience the Bosch and Miele clean very, very well. The Samsung was just OK. I didn't know the Samsung was just doing an OK job until I got the Miele. It's amazing how well this machine cleans. I honestly don't know what makes one work better than the other. I leave that to the experts I can only speak to the results. |
Post# 1098952 , Reply# 32   12/1/2020 at 16:11 (1,234 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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Thanks Phil, I'm equally sorry I didn't recognize the point you were trying to make.
I agree with you, though, and I find the overwhelming number of pro-FL posts very encouraging. I'm confident that FL designs will continue to progress in a direction that resolves the balancing issues that so many here, including myself, find frustrating.
By the way, where, oh where is the OP? Was this discussion launched just for the sport of it? |
Post# 1098965 , Reply# 33   12/1/2020 at 17:20 (1,234 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)   |   | |
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When my Mom's old Maytag gave up the ghost last summer, I gave my fairly new Speed Queen top loader to her, along with the matching dryer. I then decided to give a front loader a whirl and purchased an LG 3900 pair. I've been very happy with them too. The washer does an excellent job. I most frequently use the Normal cycle and can do a load in 35 minutes, which includes an extra rinse for good measure. My clothes are always clean and thoroughly rinsed. The bonus is that it spins out the rinse water at faster RPMs, thus reducing drying time in the tumble dryer. I would give it 5 stars! |
Post# 1098986 , Reply# 36   12/1/2020 at 19:47 (1,234 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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When wringer washers with central beaters came upon scene owners manuals and elsewhere routinely advised housewives not to use long wash times. Rationale was it did nothing to improve cleaning but would contribute to wearing out of things. Considering how aggressive some agitators were (and would still be later in automatics), that was largely true.
Maytag wringer owners manual gives wash times as 3-5 minutes for Cottons (both coloured and white), with 5-10 minutes for heavy/sturdy fabrics such as denim. Man made fabrics and delicate things 1-3 minutes. Keep in mind with a wringer/semi-automatic often whites, colourfast and some other things would have been pre-soaked before going into main hot wash. Thus most of the dirt was gone anyway, thus things didn't need to be beaten about for long periods. Times could vary by soil level, water hardness, product being used (soap or detergent), etc. But in general leaving things too long for too often in a top loader generally increased wear and tear on fabrics. When automatic washing machines came in pre-washing often went out. Also rise of detergents replacing soap meant in theory one could wash longer with same water because the latter have greater anti redepositing powers than former. Of course top loading automatic washers varied in how brutal they treated fabrics. Some literally did beat ones wash to death, others were a bit more gentle. So many hated then or now tumble dryers because they believe lint found in screen was a result of machine drying. This was from laundry done in top loaders and while filters in washer catches some lint, much of it comes out during drying process. When switched over to front loaders same persons are amazed at how far less lint in captured in filter..... |
Post# 1099001 , Reply# 38   12/1/2020 at 22:34 (1,234 days old) by GELaundry4ever (Nacogdoches, TX, USA)   |   | |
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how effective my matching dryers to the lg and Kenmore elite washers are. It uses lower temps and higher airflow. And yes, there's less lint in the dryer. |
Post# 1099011 , Reply# 39   12/2/2020 at 03:02 (1,234 days old) by chachp (North Little Rock, AR)   |   | |
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I guess I have had a F/L for so long now that I just automatically make sure the load is such that it won't go off balance. For example, last week I was washing our king size mattress pad. The Samsung we had gave mixed results on how well it could balance this. The Miele is about 2 for 2 on whether or not it was able to complete the spin so I just add a large white towel to the load and that seems to do the trick. When I was testing this and had a load that didn't spin out, I just threw in a big white towel and set the machine for a spin only. At 1600 RPMs these come out ready for a short run in the dryer.
That's about the only thing I wash that sometimes has an issue to complete the spin. Everything else spins just fine. It actually amazes me sometimes at how it starts and stops to get the load balanced. |
Post# 1099095 , Reply# 41   12/2/2020 at 18:55 (1,233 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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Am not looking to stir those old pools, but there are many comments or threads about Maytag TL washers and "lazy" agitation. This along with suspect to poor cleaning and or rinsing results. Thus it may not be a fair race to lump Maytag washers in with say those offered by Whirlpool.
Ironically one of Maytag's best performing washers was their wringer with square tub. While subsequently famous for their long lived and rugged transmissions that came with various later models of automatic washers, few if any could equal results of powerful agitation combined with strong currents of water by that square tub. |
Post# 1099120 , Reply# 42   12/2/2020 at 22:35 (1,233 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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I give you the Maytag HA806
1978 Maytag Washer A408 1990 Maytag Commercial Washer Maytag A700 Compared to Whirlpool washer (circa 1960's) with famous "Surgliator" agitator. 1960's Whirlpool Hotpoint 96700 TL Norge AW-220 And finally just for giggles Maytag wringer washer (round tub). You can see, well you can see that unless somewhat under loaded Maytag automatics in various models do not roll over wash much if at all. Rather like the Norge things just get batted about as swished through water, but otherwise don't move. For reasons only known to Maytag they stuck with agitator design from wringer days that kept fins largely at bottom. Thus turnover was largely dependent upon currents of water forcing things down and around. This happened really well with square tub Maytag wringers and even their round tub models, but various automatics just weren't up to the task. |
Post# 1099151 , Reply# 43   12/3/2020 at 10:19 (1,233 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806)   |   | |
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Turn over in my 1963 RCA Whirlpool Imperial Mark XII, and this is probably this best example of how well the Surgilators work. Never had any issues with things coming out dirty after doing a load of laundry in this washer and this by far is the best cleaning top loader I’ve owned so far.
CLICK HERE TO GO TO Maytag85's LINK |
Post# 1099185 , Reply# 46   12/3/2020 at 18:01 (1,232 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Hi John, be sure that you have an extra top seal and bearing along with an extra inner tub and tub lock nut We see the inner basket break apart frequently and it takes the outer tub with it if you don't catch it fast. You should also have the front cabinet support frame [ these bend often ] along with a lid switch.
It is far easier to put main bearings in a SQ FL washer than doing major repairs on these GE TL machines, Simple repairs like the water pump or motor replacement are about the same.
John L. |
Post# 1099204 , Reply# 47   12/3/2020 at 20:57 (1,232 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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The first two videos above capture what I've experienced with a Pitman type Maytag 712. If the tub is packed, turnover suffers. As shown, some makes are far better than others in this regard, but I was surprised to see that the old Norge was even worse than the Maytag. That goes counter to everything I've read here from Norge aficionados.
The 712 isn't my daily driver, and I'm mindful about its capabilities. My biggest issue is the way-too-short deep rinse that, with a full load, can barely manage a single turnover of contents within the allotted time. At the very least, Maytag should have allowed for another long spray rinse after the deep rinse to remedy the situation. That said, I've learned that with just some sensible consideration for load size, the 712 gets the job done well enough.
I can recall turnover issues on my mom's '74 Kenmore with large tub and Penta-Swirl agitator. With a full load, the turnover was pathetic. The Penta-Swirl had even less pronounced vanes, all of them at the very bottom, than its Maytag contemporaries. |
Post# 1099205 , Reply# 48   12/3/2020 at 21:01 (1,232 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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Yes, some of all that dance is to get load properly distributed for extraction, but there is another reason as well.
Loosening up wash, then extracting, lather rinse and repeat allows for better and even extraction of water. If you've ever put sopping wet wash into a spin dryer you'll notice when taken out there are areas that are almost dry whilst others are more moist to even wet. That is because water was not extracted evenly from the start thanks to things being bunched up. Same thing happens to some extent with all top loading automatic washing machines. When doing laundry with Maytag wringer washer last weekend noticed same thing. This is one reason why people were told when using either power or hand wringers that wash should be spread evenly along width of rollers. If you send things through in a heap water is not evenly extracted. My older Miele does a series of graduated 30 second pulse spins before beginning main spin cycle for "Normal Cottons/Linens". The newer AEG Lavamat and Electrolux toplader H-axis washer do series of spins, stop, tumble about, start spinning again.. this even when load isn't unbalanced. It drove one made at first until understood method behind madness. Things emerge more evenly moist than using spin dryer. You notice difference in results in larger items like sheets, pillow slips, blankets, etc.... If you take things out of washer then hold them up to light/hang to dry you'll see clearly things from former often have streaks that are more wet compared to relatively dry areas. Other benefit of all this early redistributing of wash is you're not using wash as a sieve when extracting. When you begin spinning from start and that's all there is you're pulling water (and everything suspended in it) through wash but things won't be even. That is areas of larger mass (where things are bunched up), obviously won't allow water to pass at nearly same rate as thinner areas. So things get "stuck" as it were. If you've taken dark items out of a top loading washer, in particular if turned inside out during washing, you often see lint, detergent powder or other residue in seams or creased areas when turned right side out. That is an example of fabric acting like a sieve. Extraction couldn't "pull" that residue/sediment through wash easily as the water, so the latter left that gunk behind on its way out. |
Post# 1099211 , Reply# 49   12/3/2020 at 22:15 (1,232 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806)   |   | |
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I find it interesting how some people say Maytags have Lazy Agitation, and I’ve literally put my hand inside the tub of my 1973 Maytag A606 with a ever so slightly under loaded load of laundry when it was washing and things were getting moved around by the power fin agitator. Only time the agitation can be lazy on a Maytag is if the belt(s) are worn or if it’s over loaded and since I load my Maytag A606 properly I’ve never had any issues with it. If you don’t want lazy agitation on a Maytag, put a load sensor agitator on a Maytag with a helical transmission or use a Maytag with the orbital transmission or put a 50hz pulley on.
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Post# 1099222 , Reply# 50   12/4/2020 at 00:35 (1,232 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Funny about those posted videos is that they're all incorrectly loaded:
1. Underloaded, which will cause fabrics to swim around rather than roll over. Agitation is a bit on anemic side and the as well as the spin which is an indication that the pump belt is adjusted too tight. 2. Overloaded. Also, the transmission is barking which is an indication of a seizing upper transmission shaft....probably among other things. 3. Underloaded, causing anemic rollover. 4. Overloaded. This machine also has a 54 OPM transmission which is slower than the later models. The Bakelite agitators in these machines require a slight underload for proper rollover compared to the Powerfin. The transmission in these earlier machines were also filled with some very thick transmission oil (oils have come a loooooong way in 60 years) and we haven't got into other possible areas the may need attention. 5. Underloaded. 6. Underloaded 7. Overloaded. Agitation looks anemic compared to Roberts '64....the machine needs some attention. 7. First off, the water level is too low (it should be up the top of the fins) which will produce faster rollover. Second, the N2L uses 3 gallons less than the E and J machines yet agitates at the same speed. This will naturally produce faster rollover. More than 6-7 minutes of washing in an N2L will tear up fabrics....I know, I own one. |
Post# 1099223 , Reply# 51   12/4/2020 at 01:25 (1,232 days old) by appnut (TX)   |   | |
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Dan, I'm assuming you are referring to the 1964 Wards. That's the high water level set from the factory. My "other mother" had the exact same washer model, except hers didn't have suds saver. That's the way hers was on high water level. We had the 1964 Norge DispensoMat TOL version. That's exactly the same fill level our high water level came from the factory.
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Post# 1099225 , Reply# 52   12/4/2020 at 02:15 (1,232 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 1099226 , Reply# 53   12/4/2020 at 04:11 (1,232 days old) by gorenje (Slovenia)   |   | |
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Hi everybody :-)
When the question was are front loaders better than top loaders I've always said: Just try an experiment, try to wash a really dirty load of whites in a front loader or the same load in a toploader WITHOUT bleach and see the difference. Front loaders are far better, especially the European ones, or whichever one has an internal heater and does a profile wash. Some mentioned that old toploaders and really hot water were maybe as good as front loaders. I don't agree because of the profile wash. Yes hot water makes miracles, that's right, but starting from cold and reaching almost boiling water is the real thing, because hot water from start set a lot of stains. The mechanical action in a front loader (tumbling and beating on the drum) is more effective compared to a toploader (floating and vigorously pulling thing around). I don't need "turnover" ... I don't need my laundry to have fun floating around in the water :-P I need clean clothes. I'm always sure my under socks dirt will come out perfectly from my frontloader even if the socks are white. And the same for stubborn stains on whites. Not to mention that frontloaders are much much gentler on clothes. Ok the cycles are longer, but I don't care. Some machines can wash up to 9 kg of laundry, thats a huge ammount. |
Post# 1099239 , Reply# 56   12/4/2020 at 06:34 (1,232 days old) by SudsMaster (SF Bay Area, California)   |   | |
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I think the big issue affecting modern TL wash effectiveness is shared to a much lesser extent by modern FL machines: energy and water limitations. These have led to the dreaded "spray rinse" approach of modern TL machines, which cannot seriously compete with a full rinse of older designs.
I replaced my GE Filter-flo machine with a Neptune 7500 back around 2000, and have never looked back (the GE is in the workshop awaiting eventual occasional service someday). The Neptune may not be the best FL design out there (and has been discontinued anyway), but it cleans quite well, and generally doesn't grow mold or smell bad. I help prevent that by running at least one really hot load a week. I also use STPP to help strip detergent precipitate buildup away from the outer tub and other parts. It generally spins just fine, as long as it's not overloaded. I've learned its limits regarding bath sheets etc. Out in the workshop I also have three Miele machines of various vintages. Mostly I use the 90's era 1918a model. It out cleans the Neptune but of course cannot hold quite as much. It also takes a lot longer; part of that time lag is that it has to heat all the water itself (no hot water in the workshop). So mostly I use it for whites, like towels and t-shirts. Not jockey shorts cause the 170F temp seems to shorten the life of elastic stuff. Along the way I also picked up a used old dial Frigidaire front loader. Have never run it but it's a back up just in case the Neptune runs its final spin. It's also in the workshop, but without an internal water heater it's relegated to display only out there. The weirdest top loader ever made, I think, is the Neptune TL that came out a decade or so ago. You know, the one with two slanted wash disks at the bottom that are supposed to take the place of an agitator and result in water/energy savings. Someday I would like to watch one of those in action, if any are still running. Any of the above would beat the pants off a wash tub and washboard. YMMV |
Post# 1099240 , Reply# 57   12/4/2020 at 07:00 (1,232 days old) by chachp (North Little Rock, AR)   |   | |
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That has not been my experience and I'm curious to know why people think that happens in a F/L machine. My F/L machine has the ability to do extra water in the rinse cycle. I've tried both the normal rinse water level and the extra water rinse cycle. I don't experience any foul smelling laundry as a result using either option. My machine does monitor the water and if the rinse still has a lot of soap in it, it will add another rinse. I'm also very careful with the amount of soap I use. I've spent a fair amount of time testing different amounts of detergent to try to get to a place where it cleans well and doesn't leave a lot of detergent in the clothes. We have soft water and when I use powder I am literally using one tablespoon of powder. I get a tiny bit of sudsing on the glass and very clear rinses.
Is that why I don't get any smelly laundry? Do all F/L machines do multiple rinses? I realize they probably don't all have the sensor but I thought they all do at least a couple of rinses. I generally don't use fragrance beads and only occasionally use Fabric Softener.
I always leave the door open a little and pull out the soap dispenser tray a little bit when I am finished for the day. So again, never any smelly laundry nor have I ever had any mold or foul smell coming out of the washer. |
Post# 1099252 , Reply# 58   12/4/2020 at 09:44 (1,232 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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There are a few vids of my Neppy TL on my YouTube channel. I used it a couple weeks ago for a maxed-out load of cargo shorts, briefs, and a few other items (no video of that). It handles loads of heavier-type items nicely (cottons/towels, jeans, etc.) and washes them well. Loads consisting of only lightweight or synthetic fabrics, not so much. I once watched a load of 21 casual button-down shirts not rollover AT ALL for the entire wash period. I restarted the wash and helped it roll. It's very touchy about spin balancing and will abort the post-wash and between-rinse spins if it can't balance (tries max of three times). The final spin tries numerous more times to get a satisfactory distribution, will refill and tumble I think twice, IIRC, with three distribution tumbles on each drain before stopping for help. Two rinses is the default on all cycles, Extra Rinse option makes it three. It's interesting and fun to use on occasion but a real frontloader is better, of course. |
Post# 1099265 , Reply# 59   12/4/2020 at 14:44 (1,231 days old) by IIIJohnnyMacIII (North Carolina)   |   | |
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That’s a good question. My take on why others may or may not have foul smelling laundry from a front loader is that there are many different variables at play. It’s not a one size fits all as each family and machine is different.
How many family members? What are there habits, hobbies, work? What type of fabrics are being washed? What type of detergent? How much detergent? How much water in the rinse cycle? Does the machine possess the ability to run cycles appropriate for the job? What is the machines spin speed? I know for me it was only synthetic fabrics, having a family of five who all are active, and not having an extra rinse or pre wash. I never had any mold or mildew smell from my front loader and I never left the door or detergent drawer open. I just ran a hot wash with bleach twice per week when washing my rags and towels. I now know the problem wasn’t that it was a front loader in itself. The problem was that I purchased a front loader that didn’t fit my needs. |
Post# 1099273 , Reply# 60   12/4/2020 at 15:49 (1,231 days old) by Spinspeed (Far North New South Wales Australia (originally London UK))   |   | |
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So to add my penny worth, I love top load washers but when it comes to wash performance and economy front load washers win without a doubt in my mind.
Now we live in rural Australia and have to rely on tank rainwater, I cannot bring myself to use any of my top loaders as they use so much water. My LG front loader is my daily driver now and it does a great job. It is not fast but washes, rinses and spins really well. I am much happier with the lower water usage for a big load of laundry compared to my Filter flow or my F&P TL. Happy laundering what ever washer you prefer. Simin |
Post# 1099286 , Reply# 62   12/4/2020 at 16:56 (1,231 days old) by gorenje (Slovenia)   |   | |
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@chachp
My frontloader does on default 3 rinses but it can do 5 rinses with very high water leven on the allergy cycle. It's a 2 years old washer, not a vintage one. Regarding "smelly" frontloaders I swear on my mother I have never experienced something like this in my entire life and honestly is something I really don't understand. |
Post# 1099293 , Reply# 63   12/4/2020 at 17:45 (1,231 days old) by GELaundry4ever (Nacogdoches, TX, USA)   |   | |
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Have yoused the default cottons cycle? If so, what wash the wash rhythm like? |
Post# 1099294 , Reply# 64   12/4/2020 at 17:49 (1,231 days old) by GELaundry4ever (Nacogdoches, TX, USA)   |   | |
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Have you used the default cottons program? If so, what were the default settings and wash rhythm like? |
Post# 1099339 , Reply# 65   12/5/2020 at 04:53 (1,231 days old) by gorenje (Slovenia)   |   | |
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On my washer there are different Cotton cycles (cotton black, cotton colors, cotton whites) on the cotton whites cycle the first setting is 40°C , 1400 RPM, but you can change the temperature up to 90°C, set a slower spin down to 0, rise the water level or add an additional rinse.
On the allergy cylce the first option is 60°C (you can go up to 90°C but no lower than 40°C), 1600 RPM (or slower down to 0) Both, wash and rinses are done on high water level on default. Regarding the washing rhythm, unless you choos the Woolens or Hand wash cycle the rhythm is quite the same. On the beginning slower, than faster and when the temperature is reached the recirculation spray turns on. You can see a short video of the machine in action. CLICK HERE TO GO TO gorenje's LINK |
Post# 1099565 , Reply# 66   12/6/2020 at 12:36 (1,230 days old) by kenwashesmonday (Carlstadt, NJ)   |   | |
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I have a 1972 Maytag A606. I find that if I load the machine up so that the clothes turn over slow and steady, they get a lot cleaner than they do if I underload it so that they turn over quickly. |
Post# 1099569 , Reply# 67   12/6/2020 at 13:11 (1,230 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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