Thread Number: 85927
/ Tag: Refrigerators
Top or Bottom Freezer |
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Post# 1104855 , Reply# 2   1/17/2021 at 14:44 (1,166 days old) by WhiteWhiskers (Silicon Valley, California)   |   | |
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I have a 20 year old Amana, freezer on the bottom. Two failures that can cause your symptoms are a bad evaporator fan and bad defrost thermostat. I've had both go bad. If the fan stops turning or the thermostat goes bad, the coils freeze up solid and no cold air will blow into the refrigerator compartment.
Both components are easily found and replaced, and cheaper than buying a whole new box. |
Post# 1104857 , Reply# 3   1/17/2021 at 14:47 (1,166 days old) by philcobendixduo (San Jose)   |   | |
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Post# 1104858 , Reply# 4   1/17/2021 at 14:48 (1,166 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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For some reason that maybe some experts here can explain, top freezer models have a better reputation for reliability than do bottom freezer types.
I really don't care, since I reach into my refrigerator several times per day, and if had to choose between a TF and a BF model, ease of use would be the #1 priority, and that means freezer on the bottom. A short person may prefer a top freezer model for the same/opposite reason.
Currently I have a side-by-side which was the best option for the small kitchen space in our previous home, and it's much easier to find in-door ice and water dispensers, which I use regularly, on a side-by-side. If I were inclined to recreate a MCM vintage kitchen, a bottom freezer GE Combination with swing-out shelves would be my preference. |
Post# 1104866 , Reply# 6   1/17/2021 at 15:57 (1,166 days old) by ea56 (Cotati, Calif.)   |   | |
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We had one of these Amana bottom freezer refrigerators that we bought around 9-11 in 2001. It was the worst refrigerator I’ve ever owned. The milk always turned sour and the lettuce froze no matter how the thermostat was adjusted. And the box itself wasn’t plumb and couldn’t be leveled so the door always swung completely open and banged the wall.
We got rid of it in 2005 and replaced it with a GE top freezer 18 cu ft BOL with wire shelves and no ice maker. It was a great fridge. We liked it so much that when we replaced it in 2017, not because there was anything wrong with it, but because we wanted a fridge with a smaller footprint, we bought another GE top freezer 15.5 cu ft. BOL. This is our current fridge and we love it. Never a problem, everything stays fresh or frozen appropriately and the thermostat never needs adjustment. I ordered an extra shelf and with the extra shelf we have the same fresh food shelf room as the larger 18 cu ft model had. BTW, I prefer wire shelves, no fear of breakage of a glass shelf, and warm food cools more quickly. Also, I’m not a fan of ice makers either, just one more thing to go on the fritz plus they take up a lot of space. We don’t use a lot of ice anyway. But when we have company or need extra ice for a threatened power outage I can make enough ice to half way fill the whole freezer compartment storing it in large plastic bags, in a day just using the ice trays. I think that GE makes a great Top Mount Freezer, no frills refrigerator for a reasonable price. I’d buy another in a hot second. Eddie |
Post# 1104869 , Reply# 7   1/17/2021 at 17:22 (1,166 days old) by SudsMaster (SF Bay Area, California)   |   | |
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Ah yes, back in the late 50's-early 60's we had a bottom freezer GE. And it had those cool rotating shelves in the upper section. I was used to the old fridge and kept opening the bottom drawer by mistake, and got yelled at for it. LOL. Also for playing with the rotating shelves.
It gave me appliance-phobia issues for years. Ha. |
Post# 1104871 , Reply# 8   1/17/2021 at 18:40 (1,166 days old) by CircleW (NE Cincinnati OH area)   |   | |
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I have an Amana bottom-freezer refrigerator that was purchased in 1997, and is a Raytheon product. I've never had any issues with it. Eddie, if yours was made in 2001 it would be from when Goodman owned Amana. I heard the quality was lacking during that time. They are now Whirlpool, of course. |
Post# 1104896 , Reply# 9   1/18/2021 at 00:29 (1,166 days old) by SudsMaster (SF Bay Area, California)   |   | |
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Cold air falls. Warm air rises. On that basis, a bottom freezer makes some sense, except it means you have to have fan system to circulate cold air from the bottom freezer up to the fresh food section. This is not necessary with an elementary top freezer design, especially if the freezer compartment is contained within the fresh food compartment.
Granted that modern top freezer designs may also have louvers to make sure the freezer section stays frozen and the fresh food section doesn't get too cold or too warm. I did have a problem with the 2005 Kitchenaid top freezer unit in the unheated enclosed patio one winter, when the passage between the freezer and the fresh food compartment iced up. I still don't know why, but it was a kind of a chore to pull everything out of the freezer, along with the roller shelf, and use a hair dryer to get rid of the ice. It hasn't happened again, knock on wood. I don't think there are any fans involved, though, just a louver mechanism. My favorite fridge design is the SxS, for the reasons already mentioned. |
Post# 1105042 , Reply# 10   1/19/2021 at 07:39 (1,164 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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TFs make more sense form an engineering perspective, Cold air falls that's why Ice Boxes and all early refs had the ice or the evaporator [ freezer section ] at the top.
Nearly All TF, BF, and SXSs have fans to circulate cold air from the freezer section to the fresh food section today so it does not make a lot of difference where the freezer section is today in terms of effectiveness cost of operation etc.
John L. |
Post# 1105095 , Reply# 11   1/19/2021 at 12:18 (1,164 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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Thanks John, that was my feeling. With fans handling distribution of cold air, having the freezer on the bottom shouldn't make any difference.
It wasn't until we got a '75 Coldspot side-by-side that I learned that the supposed "cold control" for the freezer section was nothing more than a knob that adjusted air flow. The system worked well though, with the actual thermostatic control in the fresh food section set slightly higher than 3, and the air control in the freezer around 4. Temperatures in both sections were consistent year 'round. |
Post# 1105787 , Reply# 12   1/25/2021 at 11:35 (1,158 days old) by dermacie (my forever home (Glenshaw, PA))   |   | |
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Post# 1105800 , Reply# 14   1/25/2021 at 12:52 (1,158 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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The thing that really annoys me with cheap TF models is that they often don't provide enough clearance between the floor and the bottom edge of the door. All too often, the door hits the top of my shoe and gets stuck. I've had this experience since my younger days living in rental housing, and more recently in many vacation rentals. This design also leads to stooping even lower to get to crisper contents. Just one of the reasons I prefer either a SxS or BF type.
Interesting how nobody is singing the praises of French door models. I ditched the one that was in our new house and brought our SxS from our previous home to replace it. The design offered no place for 1/2 gallon of milk other than in-the-door, which is the warmest part of the refrigerated space. Yeah, no. The ice bin in the freezer drawer was difficult to access even when using a scoop. Pure Samsung junk, but it enlightened me about the shortcomings of French door models. Don't even get me started about the flipper contraptions on the French doors that require a good push in order to achieve a positive seal. |
Post# 1105805 , Reply# 15   1/25/2021 at 13:13 (1,158 days old) by ea56 (Cotati, Calif.)   |   | |
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To each his own. I’ve never had any trouble with the bottom of my TF door hitting the top of my foot.
And stooping to access the crisper isn’t that onerous for me, granted I’m only 5’6” ( was almost 5’8” in my 20’s, but have shrunk with age and 2 hip replacements) I consider it a beneficial exercise LOL. With a SXS you also have to stoop to access anything on the lower shelves, plus with the narrow shelves in a SXS anything that is wider than the shelves you’re SOL being able to put it in the fridge. Think about having a party and needing to keep a large party tray of food or a sheet cake cold.
With any refrigerator there will be pros and cons, the user needs to decide whats most important to them. For me I don’t want some behemoth of a refrigerator taking up valuable space in my small kitchen. My small TF gives me plenty of usable storage space and fits nicely in my small kitchen.
All the space in my cheap BOL 16 cu TF GE is useable! No wasted space with needless, gimmicky crap that can break. I also agree with Ralph about those flap closures on the french door models. I’ve looked at these in stores and was not impressed. I bet these flaps are one of the first things to break on these expensive refrigerators.
Eddie
This post was last edited 01/25/2021 at 13:32 |
Post# 1105812 , Reply# 16   1/25/2021 at 13:45 (1,158 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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I agree that it's definitely a tall person issue Eddie, and I can certainly appreciate the concept of the simpler, the better. As many here know, I prefer a knob that provides twist-and-go results over the interminable pressing action of a menu-based touchpad just to turn on an oven, start a load of laundry, or even more ridiculous -- start up a slow cooker. I'm an unapologetic low-tech luddite in this regard.
I've never had the shoe clearance issue with a SxS or BF model, old or new, or even with my '57 GE Combination TF model, mainly because their mechanical systems involve a forced-draft condenser coil underneath the box, which increases the distance between the floor and the bottom edge of the door. This design also allows for zero clearance at top, back, and sides in situations where every spare inch of kitchen space matters. My KA SxS fridge had to be shoehorned into the space where the French door Samsung was, but thanks to the bottom-mounted condenser, no extra clearance was required. These are all things to think about when considering a new refrigerator. |
Post# 1105813 , Reply# 17   1/25/2021 at 13:51 (1,158 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 1105815 , Reply# 18   1/25/2021 at 14:22 (1,158 days old) by SudsMaster (SF Bay Area, California)   |   | |
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Post# 1105819 , Reply# 19   1/25/2021 at 15:00 (1,158 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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Post# 1105820 , Reply# 20   1/25/2021 at 15:03 (1,158 days old) by ea56 (Cotati, Calif.)   |   | |
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Post# 1105831 , Reply# 21   1/25/2021 at 16:42 (1,158 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 1105844 , Reply# 22   1/25/2021 at 19:11 (1,158 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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Post# 1105849 , Reply# 23   1/25/2021 at 19:47 (1,158 days old) by SudsMaster (SF Bay Area, California)   |   | |
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Here's a ready solution: Get a vintage 1940's-early 50's fridge. Most have the door raised at least six inches above floor level.
PS-I just tested the circa 2003 KA fridge on my patio. The door will hit my slippered foot befoe it hits my leg. Not the toe, but the slippers are about 1/16" above ground level so that's a factor. I always step to the side of the door before opening it. Perhaps Ralph could do that, unless there's some kitchen arrangement that would make that impossible. |
Post# 1105853 , Reply# 24   1/25/2021 at 20:26 (1,158 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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Rich, that's exactly my beef -- that I'd have to train myself to step aside. Not happening. Dealing with those low-clearance refrigerator doors annoys me no end.
And I have news for you: My '52 Kelvinator's door is full length (height?). The un-refrigerated tilt-out vegetable bin that's commonly found at the bottom of most vintage Kelvinators is inside the cabinet on mine. But the door's edge is still high enough to clear my shoe, so it's all good. |
Post# 1105863 , Reply# 25   1/26/2021 at 01:23 (1,158 days old) by SudsMaster (SF Bay Area, California)   |   | |
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Post# 1105866 , Reply# 27   1/26/2021 at 01:59 (1,158 days old) by DaveAMKrayoGuy (Oak Park, MI)   |   | |
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Post# 1105868 , Reply# 28   1/26/2021 at 03:00 (1,158 days old) by SudsMaster (SF Bay Area, California)   |   | |
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Post# 1105870 , Reply# 29   1/26/2021 at 04:02 (1,157 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)   |   | |
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Post# 1105873 , Reply# 30   1/26/2021 at 06:42 (1,157 days old) by ozzie908 (Lincoln UK)   |   | |
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Post# 1105875 , Reply# 31   1/26/2021 at 07:23 (1,157 days old) by DaveAMKrayoGuy (Oak Park, MI)   |   | |
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